Shimano Shifter cable set polymer with crazy number of ferrules

So I use the Shimano polymer shifter set that includes a huge number of ferrules and asorted items to use depending on situation. Well my 6800 group shifts great almost by itself but the shifter cables at the head frays after about year and I put on cables on.

My question is that shimano gives you all these various parts and I assume you don't use them all depends on the situation. In my case a Habanero Ti road with exposed cables. I know the metal ferrule that does into the derailleur barrel adjuster that is the given. I also know there is one used at the shifter exit going out and down under the bar tape and housing. Otherwise I am lost as to what to use other than what works. Should just avoid nylon stuff.

Now the other thought is to simply buy some shimano bulk housing and use the regular die-drawn cable without the polymer coating. I don't want to experiment what works?

Deacon Mark

On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 2:46:16 PM UTC-8, wrote:
So I use the Shimano polymer shifter set that includes a huge number of ferrules and asorted items to use depending on situation. Well my 6800 group shifts great almost by itself but the shifter cables at the head frays after about year and I put on cables on.

My question is that shimano gives you all these various parts and I assume you don't use them all depends on the situation. In my case a Habanero Ti road with exposed cables. I know the metal ferrule that does into the derailleur barrel adjuster that is the given. I also know there is one used at the shifter exit going out and down under the bar tape and housing. Otherwise I am lost as to what to use other than what works. Should just avoid nylon stuff.

Now the other thought is to simply buy some shimano bulk housing and use the regular die-drawn cable without the polymer coating. I don't want to experiment what works?

Deacon Mark

It has been my experience that pure stainless cables work better than anything and be sure to put proper cable ends on the derailleur end of the cables. And don't over-tighten the wire locks.

On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 4:46:16 PM UTC-6, wrote:
So I use the Shimano polymer shifter set that includes a huge number of ferrules and asorted items to use depending on situation. Well my 6800 group shifts great almost by itself but the shifter cables at the head frays after about year and I put on cables on.

My question is that shimano gives you all these various parts and I assume you don't use them all depends on the situation. In my case a Habanero Ti road with exposed cables. I know the metal ferrule that does into the derailleur barrel adjuster that is the given. I also know there is one used at the shifter exit going out and down under the bar tape and housing. Otherwise I am lost as to what to use other than what works. Should just avoid nylon stuff.

Now the other thought is to simply buy some shimano bulk housing and use the regular die-drawn cable without the polymer coating. I don't want to experiment what works?

Deacon Mark

So I bought a huge roll of Shimano ot-sp41 derailleur housing and Brass 4mm ferrules from Wheels Manufacturing. Put those puppies in and used plain die-drawn stainless steel cables, now if shifts like "butter." From the description I gave you know I am a guitar player too and repair them. Those crazy package deals end up costing more money and take more time to figure out, then they give you cheap plastic ferrules...…….like putting cheap pots on a guitar instead of CTS.


I have used guitar string to work on bikes they can make internally routed cables easier to thread into frames.


Deacon Mark

On 2/28/2019 4:24 PM, wrote:
From the description I gave you know I am a guitar player too and repair them. Those crazy package deals end up costing more money and take more time to figure out, then they give you cheap plastic ferrules...…….like putting cheap pots on a guitar instead of CTS.

As a confirmed retro-grouch, my guitar and all other instruments are
wooden. Or at least, non-amplified.

(I got really crazy a while back and bought a flute made of Delrin.)


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 4:30:48 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:

As a confirmed retro-grouch, my guitar and all other instruments are
wooden. Or at least, non-amplified.

(I got really crazy a while back and bought a flute made of Delrin.)


I'm assuming this was a keyless (pre-boehm design) type traditional music like a celtic session? I'd imagine it has a very soft tone with a rich low-end.

On 3/1/2019 1:48 PM, Zen Cycle wrote:
On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 4:30:48 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:

As a confirmed retro-grouch, my guitar and all other instruments are
wooden. Or at least, non-amplified.

(I got really crazy a while back and bought a flute made of Delrin.)


I'm assuming this was a keyless (pre-boehm design) type traditional music like a celtic session? I'd imagine it has a very soft tone with a rich low-end.

Yep. Only eight holes, counting the embouchure hole and the one at the
end. Aside from percussion, probably the world's oldest musical instrument.

I suppose the tone would be nice and soft with a rich low end if I were
any good. My fingers know what to do from other instruments. But
embouchure frustrates the heck out of me.

I can be playing along nicely for a while, then have the thing go dead
silent in the middle of a tune. I've been told there are microscopic
muscles in the lips that get tired, and only disciplined daily practice
will build endurance.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Friday, March 1, 2019 at 6:50:13 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/1/2019 1:48 PM, Zen Cycle wrote:
On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 4:30:48 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:

As a confirmed retro-grouch, my guitar and all other instruments are
wooden. Or at least, non-amplified.

(I got really crazy a while back and bought a flute made of Delrin.)


I'm assuming this was a keyless (pre-boehm design) type traditional music like a celtic session? I'd imagine it has a very soft tone with a rich low-end.

Yep. Only eight holes, counting the embouchure hole and the one at the
end. Aside from percussion, probably the world's oldest musical instrument.

On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 4:46:16 PM UTC-6, wrote:
So I use the Shimano polymer shifter set that includes a huge number of ferrules and asorted items to use depending on situation. Well my 6800 group shifts great almost by itself but the shifter cables at the head frays after about year and I put on cables on.

My question is that shimano gives you all these various parts and I assume you don't use them all depends on the situation. In my case a Habanero Ti road with exposed cables. I know the metal ferrule that does into the derailleur barrel adjuster that is the given. I also know there is one used at the shifter exit going out and down under the bar tape and housing. Otherwise I am lost as to what to use other than what works. Should just avoid nylon stuff.

Now the other thought is to simply buy some shimano bulk housing and use the regular die-drawn cable without the polymer coating. I don't want to experiment what works?

Deacon Mark


All of mine are acoustic guitars for sure. Archtops and a few have a floating pickup. I worked for 2 well known guitar makers Bill Hollenbeck and Bill Barker, probably never heard of them but they were known among jazz guitarist for sure.

Deacon Mark

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 2:38:26 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 4:46:16 PM UTC-6, wrote:
So I use the Shimano polymer shifter set that includes a huge number of ferrules and asorted items to use depending on situation. Well my 6800 group shifts great almost by itself but the shifter cables at the head frays after about year and I put on cables on.

My question is that shimano gives you all these various parts and I assume you don't use them all depends on the situation. In my case a Habanero Ti road with exposed cables. I know the metal ferrule that does into the derailleur barrel adjuster that is the given. I also know there is one used at the shifter exit going out and down under the bar tape and housing. Otherwise I am lost as to what to use other than what works. Should just avoid nylon stuff.

Now the other thought is to simply buy some shimano bulk housing and use the regular die-drawn cable without the polymer coating. I don't want to experiment what works?

Deacon Mark


All of mine are acoustic guitars for sure. Archtops and a few have a floating pickup. I worked for 2 well known guitar makers Bill Hollenbeck and Bill Barker, probably never heard of them but they were known among jazz guitarist for sure.

Deacon Mark

My older brother made acoustic classical guitars. Then have really good tone and balance but not a lot of volume since the top and bottom are probably too thick. But unless you have a source for very top quality wood the top and bottom can distort and the neck rise so that it looks like it was made wrong - the strings at the top are at a different height from the neck than at the body. I still have one here.

My wife was a music major so she played piano and organ for many churches. She brought some old German piano home and it's been around here for a couple of years and when she started playing it there was one key a mile out of tune. I just tried to tune it today. If the harp isn't built strong enough tuning one key will cause the half key on either side to go out of tune. So it took me about two hours to get it in tune. I went out and tried it again and you can tell that it isn't perfect. But the tuners are so sensitive I'll leave it as it is. Not many people can tell the tuning that close anyway.