Interesting that sometimes its the high end stuff that becomes obsolete.

Falcon 5 weighs 564 GRAMS

http://www.jensonusa.com/!XweHjQ7Gai...FZLm7AodN3sAhg

PASS THE x3

On 24/02/14 11:02, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 23, 2014 11:29:17 AM UTC-8, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Just looking at some old tubular wheels I have here and noticed
something very interesting. My ancient hub that takes a thread on
freewheel is still useful since freewheels are still available.
However my vintage Uniglide Dura Ace cassette freehub is an orphan
as that type of cassette is no longer made. Can't even change the
freehub body as it's a proprietary unit to that particular hub.
Then there was the weird Dura Ace stuff that had an unusual cable
pull that isn't/wasn't compatible with anything else. Interesting
that freewheels hubs are more useful today in that you can get a
frewheel for one wheras you're SOL with the 7 speed Dura Ace
cassette hub. Unless you want to go to all of the trouble of
grinding the large tab on modern cassette cogs down to the size to
fit the older spline.



That's the thing with friction shifters too. You can use just about
any cassette or freewheel with friction shifters if something goes
wrong. With the Shimano Brifters if something goes wrong you're SOL
for repairing them and need to buy new ones even if it's just the
right one that needs repairing.



More complicated parts are not neccessarily better if they can't be
repaired by the home mechanic or if you can't get new cogs for
them.



Cheers

The 7 speed Dura Ace was great because it was all stack-em-up cogs.
You could build whatever configuration you wanted. You can also flip
them over, so your cogs may still have some life left in them.

You can still buy a conversion freehub body if you can find one,
along with the special tool -- and some spacers. Or maybe you could
buy some NOS cogs for a lot of money. Or you could do like me and go
out and buy an Ultegra hub (or some other suitable hub) and re-build
the wheel. No big deal and within the abilities of a home mechanic.

Yes, freewheels are easier to find, unless you bought French hubs.
But, if you have an old 5 speed British threaded hub, you can get a
POS freewheel for $10 USD!
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=44102
Makes me wonder why cassettes are so expensive.

This is all academic to me, though, since I switched over to cassette
hubs a zillion years ago and never looked back. I also dumped my
tubulars, except for my old track wheels (ancient NR high flange and
Ergal rims, tied and soldered).


I stopped breaking rear axles with my first cassette rear hub, and have
never broken one since.

I often wonder why some parts cost as much as they do. For a cassette,
you should have a set of spacers already, so the cogs could be sold with
the intent of reusing the old spacers that don't wear. Some stamped
steel rings shouldn't cost as much as they do from the big name
manufacturers.

I'd really like a 10s, 11-20 cassette. At the moment I think it's a no
can do.

Genuine Campy chainrings cost a packet compared to third party products.
The last third party ones I bought were way cheaper, but lack the steel
pins and shaped teeth to promote faster shifting. I filed down 2 teeth
and the shifting has improved substantially. Why they couldn't have a
few steel rivets and modified teeth as well, I don't know. Patents?
Shouldn't be to hard to work around ;-)

--
JS

On Sunday, February 23, 2014 7:18:15 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Falcon 5 weighs 564 GRAMS



http://www.jensonusa.com/!XweHjQ7Gai...FZLm7AodN3sAhg



PASS THE x3

iiiiiiiii

pass the STEPFORD WIVES

Shouldn't be to hard to work around ;-)

qqqqqqqqqqqqqqq

been awhile since last fitting cogs around but hadaftermarket spacers then finding Shimano left nobs on the original spacers if filed off then cogs fit. On one or more spacers.

https://www.google.com/#q=fitting+co...o+hubs&spell=1

On Sunday, February 23, 2014 7:18:23 PM UTC-5, James wrote:

Genuine Campy chainrings cost a packet compared to third party products.
The last third party ones I bought were way cheaper, but lack the steel
pins and shaped teeth to promote faster shifting. I filed down 2 teeth
and the shifting has improved substantially.

I've filed the side edges of old-design freewheel cogs in ways that seemed to
improve the shifting significantly.

But on another type of filing: James, IIRC you said you rehabbed some
worn freewheel cogs, filing the teeth so they no longer caused the chain
to jump. How has that worked out? Are they still running well?

- Frank Krygowski

On 24/02/14 11:40, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On Sunday, February 23, 2014 7:18:23 PM UTC-5, James wrote:

Genuine Campy chainrings cost a packet compared to third party products.
The last third party ones I bought were way cheaper, but lack the steel
pins and shaped teeth to promote faster shifting. I filed down 2 teeth
and the shifting has improved substantially.

I've filed the side edges of old-design freewheel cogs in ways that seemed to
improve the shifting significantly.

But on another type of filing: James, IIRC you said you rehabbed some
worn freewheel cogs, filing the teeth so they no longer caused the chain
to jump. How has that worked out? Are they still running well?


They ran well for the rest of the life of the chains I was using, but
since retired.

I have another chain slippage problem now. The current cassette did
about 2000km with a brand new chain that was only oiled, until I took it
off, cleaned everything and put on another brand new chain after dipping
it into a hot wax/oil bath.

The ******* skips!

After now doing 5355km (3355km with the waxed chain) it still skips, and
the new chain is only as long as the chain that had done 2000km.

That is, the first chain and second hanging from a nail in my garage,
appear to be as near as damn it is to swearing the same length.

It seems the cassette has worn now faster than the chains, and probably
won't like either of them.

I have reapplied the wax/oil treatment a couple of times, and run a
little light oil at times when it's sounded dry and I haven't had time
to heat wax, etc.

Perhaps I need to go back to running one chain on a cassette and using a
wax/oil hot bath for lube?

Perhaps the cassette teeth are not robust enough on 10s when the chain
is kept in such good condition?

It's not skipping once I get up to speed, only from a standing start
with heavy acceleration. And no, I'm certain it's not frame flex
causing gear changes.

--
JS

? CHAINs and casettes break in together...cassette wear very difficult to spot. Low diameter/sharp chain turn/less cog surface on smaller cogs.
try using water as lube for a few snap starts

On 2/23/2014 12:50 PM, AMuzi wrote:

I'm admittedly a luddite in some regards but I haven't bought a nail
since the first day I saw a drywall screw.

(p.s. all my cars have multiple carburetors or multiple throat. Rebuild
every 10 years or so, no complaints. After the Chinese do their EMP
thing I won't have anywhere to go but my car will run.)

Seriously? No electronic /ignition/, just points and the coil?
Most cars haven't been EMP-robust since something like the mid-80s, I think.

-Mark J. "Not really a survivalist, but I play one on TV"

On 2/23/2014 1:16 PM, davethedave wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 12:58:41 -0800, Frank Krygowski wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2014 3:28:24 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
You can still buy regular manual nails. And nail them swinging a 16,
20, 24, 28 ounce hammer. Or you can buy an airgun and nail like 100%
of the house builders do. I do not know if modern airguns use the same
coil of nails the airguns from 20 years ago used. Maybe airguns change
the nails they accept over the years and old and new airguns do not use
the same nail coils. But as I said, 100% of the houses in the USA or
Europe are nailed together using airguns. Maybe in Africa they are
swinging manual hammers and using nails you pound in. Maybe you should
go to Africa. You'd fit in better there.

If I were going to build a new house, I might borrow an airgun plus a
compressor to speed up the framing.

But if I just want to add a closet, or install some finishing trim, or
even build a backyard shed, I'm going to use a hammer. The hammer is
much less expensive, much more versatile, and unlike the nail gun I've
used, it's reliable as ... well, as a hammer.

I have a hammer. It's reliability is astounding. It nailed **** together
for my great-grandfather, my grandfather, my father and me. My son will
learn to use it and eventually teach his daughter etc. ad infinitum.

How long does a nail gun last? And why the hell are we talking about nail
guns?

I thought he said rail gun. Necessary for when the BEMs come and they
neutralize all the gunpowder on the planet.
http://www.doityourselfgadgets.com/2...e-railgun.html

-Mark J.

On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 12:58:41 -0800 (PST), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2014 3:28:24 PM UTC-5, wrote:
You can still buy regular manual nails. And nail them swinging a 16, 20, 24, 28 ounce hammer. Or you can buy an airgun and nail like 100% of the house builders do. I do not know if modern airguns use the same coil of nails the airguns from 20 years ago used. Maybe airguns change the nails they accept over the years and old and new airguns do not use the same nail coils. But as I said, 100% of the houses in the USA or Europe are nailed together using airguns. Maybe in Africa they are swinging manual hammers and using nails you pound in. Maybe you should go to Africa. You'd fit in better there.

If I were going to build a new house, I might borrow an airgun plus a compressor to speed up the framing.

But if I just want to add a closet, or install some finishing trim, or even build a backyard shed, I'm going to use a hammer. The hammer is much less expensive, much more versatile, and unlike the nail gun I've used, it's reliable as ... well, as a hammer.

- Frank Krygowski

Safety Frank, Safety. The Web says that some 42,000 people require
emergency medical treatment for nail gun injuries annually.
--
Cheers,

John B.