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Bearing problem: Stuck/Shifted bearing



 
 
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  #1  
Old August 2nd 07, 06:01 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Evan Byrne
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Default Bearing problem: Stuck/Shifted bearing


So I was riding my uni yesterday and as I'm taking a break I see some
shavings of powdercoat on my cranks and I see that my right bearing had
shifted out and was almost hitting the cranks, this caused the lips of
my yuni bearing holder to scrape the crank.


Normal :
[image: http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2.../IMGA0239.jpg]

Messed:
[image: http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2.../IMGA0240.jpg]


Its quite stuck, I can't move it with a screwdriver and a hammer. What
shal I do?


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  #2  
Old August 2nd 07, 06:04 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
thejdw
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Default Bearing problem: Stuck/Shifted bearing


is there a spacer there?


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kington99 wrote:
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just goes to show that you have no culinary heritage

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  #3  
Old August 2nd 07, 06:06 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Evan Byrne
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Default Bearing problem: Stuck/Shifted bearing


You can see the black spacer next to the hub, normaly the bearing should
be touching that.


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  #4  
Old August 2nd 07, 06:07 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
isaac steiner
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Default Bearing problem: Stuck/Shifted bearing


Thats so weird.


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  #5  
Old August 2nd 07, 06:13 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
thejdw
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Default Bearing problem: Stuck/Shifted bearing


well theres to spacers on one side and only one on the other, unless
thats the inside of the bearing. that would mean you've killed the
bearing


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kington99 wrote:
A hobnob is an oaty biscuit, the fact that they don't exist in america
just goes to show that you have no culinary heritage

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  #6  
Old August 2nd 07, 06:14 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Det-riot
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Default Bearing problem: Stuck/Shifted bearing


could the metal have expanded due to heat?

your in cali rihgt? so its going to be hot


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  #7  
Old August 2nd 07, 06:20 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
thejdw
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Default Bearing problem: Stuck/Shifted bearing


I think the part coloured in red has broken free


+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: bearing2.jpg |
|Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/21448 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

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thejdw

kington99 wrote:
A hobnob is an oaty biscuit, the fact that they don't exist in america
just goes to show that you have no culinary heritage

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  #8  
Old August 3rd 07, 12:35 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
UAC
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Default Bearing problem: Stuck/Shifted bearing


Evan Byrne wrote:
So I was riding my uni yesterday and as I'm taking a break I see some
shavings of powdercoat on my cranks and I see that my right bearing had
shifted out and was almost hitting the cranks, this caused the lips of
my yuni bearing holder to scrape the crank.


Its quite stuck, I can't move it with a screwdriver and a hammer. What
shal I do?




Hey,

I had the same problem on my '07 KH29!
The bearings on almost all tapered interface hubs (square & ISIS) are
designed to be press fitted on the axle. See:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interference_fit
As you may read in the link above the pres/interference-fit assembly
relies on the friction between the connected parts (axle and bearing
inner race).
So in production process mother parts (like inner race) are machined to
a slightly smaller size and father parts are done slightly bigger.
In practice, however, because of production tolerances, a bad (or
worst) scenario may happen if one uses a bearing with the inner race
size located on the high side of manufacturing tolerance on a shaft
sized in the low side of the allowed tolerance! This will obviously
lead to poor press-fitting.
Coming back to our situation, its no wonder that the bearing slips if
the friction is not big enough. This tends to happen more on bigger
wheeled-unicycles because the higher frame flex induces higher side
forces on the bearing!
I have all 3 KH unicycles (KH20, KH24 and KH29) all with Moment hub. I
encountered this bearing slip problem on KH20 and KH29.

OK, now what to do?
First, I recommend AGAINST altering the axle or the bearing surface
with any tool!!! This is NOT good!
Additionally I either don't like the solution with spacers between the
bearing and crank arm. This is suitable IMO only for NON-tapered spline
designs (old KH, yellow QU-AX). I hope you immagine why...
Your best bet would be to find some Loctite or similar adhesive
designed for this very problem (e.g. Loctite Bearing Mount 641...).
These are low viscosity liquids that applied on the axle/shaft (before
putting back the bearing) will increase dramatically the adherence of
the press-fit!
Unfortunately they are hard to find and expensive!
I used with success Loctite 243. Although this is a medium strength
thread locker it proved to cope well in the bearing application too!
Note:
get the bearings out, clean (degrease) everything, apply generously
Loctite on both axle and inner race of the bearing, press them back
*quickly* (use the part of the seat post of your KH that you may have
cut out...) and leave overnight!

Hope this helps,
Flaviu


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  #9  
Old August 3rd 07, 05:15 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
adelman
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Posts: 12
Default Bearing problem: Stuck/Shifted bearing


UAC wrote:
[...]
Your best bet would be to find some Loctite or similar adhesive
designed for this very problem (e.g. Loctite Bearing Mount 641...).
These are low viscosity liquids that applied on the axle/shaft (before
putting back the bearing) will increase dramatically the adherence of
the press-fit!
Unfortunately they are hard to find and expensive!
I used with success Loctite 243. Although this is a medium strength
thread locker it proved to cope well in the bearing application too!
[...]




Loctite does make press-fit locking compounds which are better suited
to this job than a thread-locker. I've used both the Loctite 609
(medium strength, likely to be removable) and the Loctite 648 (maximum
strength, probably only removable by application of near-destructive
250C heat) and have found the Loctite 609 ideal for holding bearings on
square-taper hubs. Loctite 609 is a lower viscosity than 641 and better
suited to something which is already a press fit. Both are used with
the Loctite 7649 primer. My local industrial supply house ordered them
for me; expect to pay around $20 for the locking compound and another
$20 for the primer.

Before assembling with 609, be sure that you have the spacer that sits
between the bearing and hub in place. If you don't, you'll accidentally
hammer the bearing on so far that you may not be able to grab the
bearing with the puller arms to extract it. Be sure you have a good
puller; it is required to remove bearings held on with 609!

I've done roughly 10-15 wheels with the same tube of 609 and have more
than half left. Not a single case of a bearing pulling since I've
started using it!


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  #10  
Old August 3rd 07, 06:26 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Evan Byrne
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Posts: 1,162
Default Bearing problem: Stuck/Shifted bearing


I think the problem lies in my flexy frame. I used too thin wall tubing.
My next frame will be much stiffer and thicker.


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