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material to do clamps



 
 
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  #11  
Old July 13th 16, 08:08 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg
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Posts: 318
Default material to do clamps

John B. writes:

But do buy yourself a 4 inch angle grinder,
with some 1mm cut-off wheels and some sanding
disks for finishing. Nice cleanly cut ends
with maybe a bit of rounding looks so much
nicer than them old scraggly broken off ends
:-)


OK, I have an "angle grinder"! I don't know if
it is 4 inch tho. I just didn't recognize the
English name. Which is interesting because it
is the same in Swedish, "vinkelslip".

Aaanyway, I don't think I'll ever use that for
cutting this miniature thing! It is only 1 inch
in height and the thickness is, I think,
1/32 inch.

The ends look good! They are sharper than the
original edges yes, but not that sharp.
For anyone to cut anything with it, the skill
of a samurai probably will be just enough.

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 57 Blogomatic articles -
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  #12  
Old July 13th 16, 09:57 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
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Posts: 6,016
Default material to do clamps

On 2016-07-13 12:08, Emanuel Berg wrote:
John B. writes:

But do buy yourself a 4 inch angle grinder,
with some 1mm cut-off wheels and some sanding
disks for finishing. Nice cleanly cut ends
with maybe a bit of rounding looks so much
nicer than them old scraggly broken off ends
:-)


OK, I have an "angle grinder"! I don't know if
it is 4 inch tho. I just didn't recognize the
English name. Which is interesting because it
is the same in Swedish, "vinkelslip".

Aaanyway, I don't think I'll ever use that for
cutting this miniature thing! It is only 1 inch
in height and the thickness is, I think,
1/32 inch.


Real Vikings only need one thwack with their battle ax to do that :-)


The ends look good! They are sharper than the
original edges yes, but not that sharp.
For anyone to cut anything with it, the skill
of a samurai probably will be just enough.


Until one fine day there is a surprise sheet of ice on the road and ...

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #13  
Old July 13th 16, 10:01 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
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Posts: 10,538
Default material to do clamps

On 7/13/2016 4:57 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-07-13 12:08, Emanuel Berg wrote:
John B. writes:

But do buy yourself a 4 inch angle grinder,
with some 1mm cut-off wheels and some sanding
disks for finishing. Nice cleanly cut ends
with maybe a bit of rounding looks so much
nicer than them old scraggly broken off ends
:-)


OK, I have an "angle grinder"! I don't know if
it is 4 inch tho. I just didn't recognize the
English name. Which is interesting because it
is the same in Swedish, "vinkelslip".

Aaanyway, I don't think I'll ever use that for
cutting this miniature thing! It is only 1 inch
in height and the thickness is, I think,
1/32 inch.


Real Vikings only need one thwack with their battle ax to do that :-)


The ends look good! They are sharper than the
original edges yes, but not that sharp.
For anyone to cut anything with it, the skill
of a samurai probably will be just enough.


Until one fine day there is a surprise sheet of ice on the road and ...


Danger!


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #14  
Old July 13th 16, 10:08 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default material to do clamps

On 2016-07-13 14:01, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/13/2016 4:57 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-07-13 12:08, Emanuel Berg wrote:
John B. writes:

But do buy yourself a 4 inch angle grinder,
with some 1mm cut-off wheels and some sanding
disks for finishing. Nice cleanly cut ends
with maybe a bit of rounding looks so much
nicer than them old scraggly broken off ends
:-)

OK, I have an "angle grinder"! I don't know if
it is 4 inch tho. I just didn't recognize the
English name. Which is interesting because it
is the same in Swedish, "vinkelslip".

Aaanyway, I don't think I'll ever use that for
cutting this miniature thing! It is only 1 inch
in height and the thickness is, I think,
1/32 inch.


Real Vikings only need one thwack with their battle ax to do that :-)


The ends look good! They are sharper than the
original edges yes, but not that sharp.
For anyone to cut anything with it, the skill
of a samurai probably will be just enough.


Until one fine day there is a surprise sheet of ice on the road and ...


Danger!


That is what a guy thought who made a MTB fender out of a chunk of ABS
he had laying around and didn't bother to invest the 10 minutes to round
the edges. When he crashed it slit deep into a calf muscle.

Didn't you claim to be a "cycling instructor" and then you are so
careless about risks that are very simple and easy to avoid?

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #15  
Old July 13th 16, 10:10 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 318
Default material to do clamps

Joerg writes:

Until one fine day there is a surprise sheet
of ice on the road and ...


Ha ha, OK, good point, I'll see if I can get
away the sharpness either by using another tool
- like this:

http://www.clasohlson.com/medias/sys...3660973086.jpg

- *or* if I can do "postprocessing" and get it
away. If all fail yes, I will use the angle
grinder. Safety first...

(According to Wikipedia, the tool is "snips" or
"shears", but when I do Google Image search
I get many different tools for those!)

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 57 Blogomatic articles -
  #16  
Old July 13th 16, 10:17 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default material to do clamps

On 2016-07-13 14:10, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Joerg writes:

Until one fine day there is a surprise sheet
of ice on the road and ...


Ha ha, OK, good point, I'll see if I can get
away the sharpness either by using another tool
- like this:

http://www.clasohlson.com/medias/sys...3660973086.jpg

- *or* if I can do "postprocessing" and get it
away. If all fail yes, I will use the angle
grinder. Safety first...

(According to Wikipedia, the tool is "snips" or
"shears", but when I do Google Image search
I get many different tools for those!)


I just use the old-fashioned file and sand paper. If I want to be extra
good also a spritz from the Rustoleum can.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #17  
Old July 13th 16, 10:56 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default material to do clamps

On 7/13/2016 4:10 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Joerg writes:

Until one fine day there is a surprise sheet
of ice on the road and ...


Ha ha, OK, good point, I'll see if I can get
away the sharpness either by using another tool
- like this:

http://www.clasohlson.com/medias/sys...3660973086.jpg

- *or* if I can do "postprocessing" and get it
away. If all fail yes, I will use the angle
grinder. Safety first...

(According to Wikipedia, the tool is "snips" or
"shears", but when I do Google Image search
I get many different tools for those!)


These:

http://www.cadia.com.au/media/catalo...i/tinsnips.jpg

search 'tin snips' or 'sheet metal snips' or 'aircraft metal
snips'

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #18  
Old July 14th 16, 12:02 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_6_]
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Posts: 2,202
Default material to do clamps

On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 15:45:33 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. writes:

I can't tell from your photo but is it some
sort of black finish on the metal itself
or paint?


No, it is just metal on a white piece of paper,
if it looks like some black finish it is some
photovisual side effect.

It is indeed a piece of pipe hanging strap as
suggested!

But do buy yourself a 4 inch angle grinder,
with some 1mm cut-off wheels and some sanding
disks for finishing. Nice cleanly cut ends
with maybe a bit of rounding looks so much
nicer than them old scraggly broken off ends
:-)


OK, perhaps this month even if they aren't too
expensive. How much are they in Thailand?
I suppose not that different from in the west
tho relatively speaking they are still cheaper
because everything else is much cheaper (e.g.,
food) so you have more money to put
on hardware, right?


You can buy Chinese made tools for very cheap prices here but quality
varies a great deal. I bought a "no name" 4" grinder from a sidewalk
vendor maybe 15 - 20 years ago and it still works perfectly. A friend
bought an "electric screwdriver" and it didn't work when he got it
home.

I'm off downtown this morning and will check current prices just as a
matter of interest.

--
cheers,

John B.

  #19  
Old July 14th 16, 12:11 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_6_]
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Posts: 2,202
Default material to do clamps

On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 09:29:35 -0700 (PDT), jbeattie
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 8:16:18 AM UTC-7, sms wrote:
On 7/13/2016 7:08 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-07-12 19:21, Emanuel Berg wrote:
I found a good starting point to do clamps.
I don't know what it is called but it works
great. It is cuttable with pair of nippers if
you cut first and then ruck back and forth
a few times until it lets go. The holes makes
it very easy to fold and the big holes are good
for M5 bolts. Today a used it to fasten the
fender stays that are on the outside of the
fender with a special bolt that often breaks,
and with this, it took only a couple of minutes
to do two such clamps to hold the back and
front stays!

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photo...p-material.jpg


As David said that is a pipe hanging strap. Two caveats: Unless they are
always under tension they will eventually break. The other is that the
cut ends and sometimes also the sides will rust.

I would not fasten a luggage rack with that. If you really have to use
this material make sure to file down and sand any sharp corners. Else
your next crash or even just picking up the bike could result in a nasty
gash.


Not sure what he's doing to the fenders with that. I have several bikes
with fenders and have never had any bolts for the fender clamps break.

I used to fabricate quite a few handlebar clamps, frame clamps, and rack
stays, but nowadays it's much easier to buy these sorts of products,
pre-made, online, though generally not from any bicycle shops.
Considering the time and materials, it's generally a bargain to not make
this stuff yourself anymore.

http://tinyurl.com/notatlbs: 4, 7, 13, 16, 21, 37


I'm still struggling to find a cage that will perfectly fit a jumbo can of Planter's peanuts. http://restockit.com/images/Product/.../MFE072108.jpg
My LBS also has no squirrel extractors or tire lug facing tools. Other useful items I can't buy at my LBS include a micro-pump that will fit into a seat pack that doesn't cost more than $12.37 and is Canadian. It' outrageous, eh?

-- Jay Beattie.


Quite frequently "cheap", "made locally" are not synonyms :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

  #20  
Old July 14th 16, 12:46 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_6_]
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Posts: 2,202
Default material to do clamps

On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 21:08:29 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. writes:

But do buy yourself a 4 inch angle grinder,
with some 1mm cut-off wheels and some sanding
disks for finishing. Nice cleanly cut ends
with maybe a bit of rounding looks so much
nicer than them old scraggly broken off ends
:-)


OK, I have an "angle grinder"! I don't know if
it is 4 inch tho. I just didn't recognize the
English name. Which is interesting because it
is the same in Swedish, "vinkelslip".


Well, generally speaking, angle grinders some in two sizes, big ones,
that are likely 8 inch diameter wheels, and small ones that are about
4 inch (technically 4.5"). Get some 1mm thick cut-off wheels and some
"flap sanding disks", say 100 grit to 40 grit. see
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXXM6i3FJ5s
Note: the very thin cut-of wheels break fairly easily but the broken
pieces are so light that they usually do not anything.

Aaanyway, I don't think I'll ever use that for
cutting this miniature thing! It is only 1 inch
in height and the thickness is, I think,
1/32 inch.

The ends look good! They are sharper than the
original edges yes, but not that sharp.
For anyone to cut anything with it, the skill
of a samurai probably will be just enough.


It isn't a matter of sharp, It is a matter of the beauty of a
precisely machined part :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

 




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