OT- UV cured adhesive

Apologies to those that don't want off topic posts. I've just learned of UV cured adhesives and was wondering if anyone has a first hand experience using the stuff to fix things (around the house) in an expeditious manner. Apparently was developed for bonding glass to other substrates. It seems layer by layer cure might be useful around the home though. Anyone??
Thanks , Regards, Pat

On Mon, 02 Dec 2019 16:16:35 -0800, patrick wrote:

Apologies to those that don't want off topic posts. I've just learned of
UV cured adhesives and was wondering if anyone has a first hand
experience using the stuff to fix things (around the house) in an
expeditious manner.

No, for the reason that I've never seen it in the hardware stores.
A possible reason for that is that it comes in many "grades" depending on
factors like substrate, use and curing power. e.g.
http://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/...cision-treepdf.


Apparently was developed for bonding glass to other
substrates. It seems layer by layer cure might be useful around the
home though. Anyone??

The only place I've ever seen it used is at the dentist.
Given the requirement of UV exposure to cure it, unless your layering
clear/translucent materials, how would you layer and glue at the same
time? Unless you are building up or coating a surface perhaps.

On Tue, 3 Dec 2019 01:37:37 -0000 (UTC), news18
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Dec 2019 16:16:35 -0800, patrick wrote:

Apologies to those that don't want off topic posts. I've just learned of
UV cured adhesives and was wondering if anyone has a first hand
experience using the stuff to fix things (around the house) in an
expeditious manner.

I never fix things in an expeditious manner. I prefer to do repairs
slowly and carefully. With my non-production and small number of
repairs, efficiency is not a consideration. Perhaps you meant in a
reliable manner as in not having to repeat the repair after the glued
joint breaks.

No, for the reason that I've never seen it in the hardware stores.

I've been playing with Zap It, by the SuperGlueCorp.com people. I
sorta blundered across it at the local Ace hardware sto
https://supergluecorp.com/product/zap-it/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pg1zRNQISyU (2:10)

I paid $10 for 4 oz or $2.50/oz. The stuff I was using was intended
for dentists and cost me about $10/oz. That got my attention.

A possible reason for that is that it comes in many "grades" depending on
factors like substrate, use and curing power. e.g.
http://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/...cision-treepdf.


Apparently was developed for bonding glass to other
substrates. It seems layer by layer cure might be useful around the
home though. Anyone??

The only place I've ever seen it used is at the dentist.

UV cure adhesives are used for plastic welding for tacking parts
together. Also in electronic assembly to secure wires, and parts
before wave, IR, or vapor reflow soldering. I'd rather not mention my
use to avoid topic drift. Suffice to say that it has nothing to do
with bicycles. More uses:

Top 10 Uses for UV Curing Adhesives
https://www.ellsworthadhesives.co.uk/top-10-uses-for-uv-curing-adhesives/

UV Curable Systems
https://www.masterbond.com/products/uv-curable-systems

Given the requirement of UV exposure to cure it, unless your layering
clear/translucent materials, how would you layer and glue at the same
time? Unless you are building up or coating a surface perhaps.

Not a problem, at least with the Zap It product. If I don't expose it
to UV light, it sets up and cures much like any common cyanoacrylate
adhesive, in 1 to 2 minutes. All the UV light does is dramatically
accelerate the process to about 1 second set-up time.

If you're going though thick layers of translucent plastic or glass,
it helps to use shorter wavelengths. There's some magic involved in
selecting the proper combination of UV brightness, wavelength,
heating, penetration, cost, etc. Some details on the selection of UV
LED wavelength and such:

Select the most effective wavelength for an LED system (for medical
system):
https://www.mddionline.com/select-most-effective-wavelength-led-system

Advancements in UV LED Curing Technology for Adhesives
https://www.adhesivesmag.com/articles/92958-advancements-in-uv-led-curing-technology-for-adhesives

As for my experience using the stuff, I find it much the same as
ordinary cyanoacrylate adhesive. Surface preparation is still
important. It won't glue everything to everything else. Some
materials don't work. Others, like porous surfaces, require sealing.
It might be strong, but it's also quite brittle. The joint can be
attacked by same the chemicals (acetone and most alkali liquids). And
yes, you can also glue your fingers to the workpiece. The only big
difference is the very fast UV cure.

Drivel: My daily footwear are construction boots with hard rubber
soles. Near the end of their useful life, they tend to crack. Before
pieces fall off, I usually glue them together with some cyanoacrylate
adhesive. I then have to hold the glue joint together for up to 10
minutes for the glue to set-up. If I move, the joint is weakened or
ruined. There must be a better way.

I recently tried the Zap It UV cure glue. After slopping on the glue
and giving it a quick blast of UV light, the edges stuck together
quite nicely. Obviously, light could not enter past the edge of the
joint as the rubber is optically opaque. After about 15 minutes, the
areas where light did NOT hit set up, and so far (about 4 weeks), the
glue joint has held together. Note that this works nicely for parts
of the show sole that do NOT flex, and very badly on parts that do
flex.
--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Mon, 02 Dec 2019 22:03:34 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

I've been playing with Zap It, by the SuperGlueCorp.com people. I
sorta blundered across it at the local Ace hardware sto
https://supergluecorp.com/product/zap-it/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pg1zRNQISyU (2:10)

I paid $10 for 4 oz or $2.50/oz. The stuff I was using was intended
for dentists and cost me about $10/oz. That got my attention.

Oops. I wrote oz when I should have written grams.
That would be $10 for 4 grams or $2.50/gram and $10/gram.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

rivel: My daily footwear are construction boots with hard rubber
:soles. Near the end of their useful life, they tend to crack. Before
ieces fall off, I usually glue them together with some cyanoacrylate
:adhesive. I then have to hold the glue joint together for up to 10
:minutes for the glue to set-up. If I move, the joint is weakened or
:ruined. There must be a better way.

I use this stuff:
https://smile.amazon.com/Stick-Fast-.../dp/B008AGVJ1U
Works with any CA adhesive I've tried it with. It can be applied
pre-assembly (glue on one side, activator the other.), or post
assembly. There are other brands, my imprssion is that they all work
the same.

--
sig 35

On Tue, 3 Dec 2019 21:37:59 +0000 (UTC), David Scheidt
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

rivel: My daily footwear are construction boots with hard rubber
:soles. Near the end of their useful life, they tend to crack. Before
ieces fall off, I usually glue them together with some cyanoacrylate
:adhesive. I then have to hold the glue joint together for up to 10
:minutes for the glue to set-up. If I move, the joint is weakened or
:ruined. There must be a better way.

I use this stuff:
https://smile.amazon.com/Stick-Fast-.../dp/B008AGVJ1U
Works with any CA adhesive I've tried it with. It can be applied
pre-assembly (glue on one side, activator the other.), or post
assembly. There are other brands, my imprssion is that they all work
the same.

I use chlorine bleach and water as an accelerator. Something like
this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Kdyme391Bg
Most water based alkaline liquid sprays will work as an accelerator.

91% isopropyl alcohol spray might work. 70% has too much water and
99% doesn't have enough water. I've only played with alcohol once and
am not sure (yet) if it's a good idea.

The commercial accelerators use various aromatic amines, as itemized
in:
"Accelerator for cyanoacrylates"
https://patents.google.com/patent/US6251818B1/en

A UV activator (accelerator) has the advantage of not making a mess
when sprayed on the work piece.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558