|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Gap Too Tight After Replacing Disc Pads
I replaced my rear Hayes Hydraulic disc pads. Everything went fine,
exept afer I installed my wheel back, it can hardly turn, because the gap between the new pads seems to be too small. I followed Hayes instruction by pushing pistons on both sides as far back as I could with a 10 mm ranch. But the gap is still too tight for the wheel to spin freely. These pads are genuine Hayes parts that I puchased from Hayes dealeres on the net. I have also pumped the brake lever several times thinking that it may self adjust the tighness. But it did not help. Did I not push the piston hard enough so that it did not reach the bottom? I felt that I might break something if I had pushed any harder. I'd appreciate any advice on how to fix this problem. Thanks in advance! |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Gap Too Tight After Replacing Disc Pads
wrote in message
ups.com... I replaced my rear Hayes Hydraulic disc pads. Everything went fine, exept afer I installed my wheel back, it can hardly turn, because the gap between the new pads seems to be too small. I followed Hayes instruction by pushing pistons on both sides as far back as I could with a 10 mm ranch. But the gap is still too tight for the wheel to spin freely. These pads are genuine Hayes parts that I puchased from Hayes dealeres on the net. I have also pumped the brake lever several times thinking that it may self adjust the tighness. But it did not help. Did I not push the piston hard enough so that it did not reach the bottom? I felt that I might break something if I had pushed any harder. I'd appreciate any advice on how to fix this problem. Thanks in advance! Yep, had the exact same problem when I changed my fronts just last week What I did was push the pistons all the way back in so the top of the piston is flush with the top of its bore. Another way is to jam the plastic card you get with the brakes in between the new pads, this also pushes the pistons back into their bores, but I find the 10mm spanner trick easier, only problem is you generally need to remove the caliper to do it. If your not pushing on the pin that holds the pad in, you can push as hard as you like, you wont break anything... HTH Cheers Dre |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Gap Too Tight After Replacing Disc Pads
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Gap Too Tight After Replacing Disc Pads
Thanks for the advice. I took out the pads and pushed the pistons
further more with another ranch as a leverage and this fixed the problem. All you need is that additional paper thin clearance to let the wheel spin freely. Thanks again. Dre wrote: Yep, had the exact same problem when I changed my fronts just last week What I did was push the pistons all the way back in so the top of the piston is flush with the top of its bore. Another way is to jam the plastic card you get with the brakes in between the new pads, this also pushes the pistons back into their bores, but I find the 10mm spanner trick easier, only problem is you generally need to remove the caliper to do it. If your not pushing on the pin that holds the pad in, you can push as hard as you like, you wont break anything... HTH Cheers Dre |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Gap Too Tight After Replacing Disc Pads
Take out your old pads.
Push the pistons back into the calipers with a box end wrench. Walk the pistons slowly, alternating between each side, until they are fully pushed into the caliper half. Install new brake pads. Put wheel back on bike. Now, the trick. You will have a gap between the rotor and each pad. Put a "spacer" (something like a business card) between the rotor and the pad (each side). It may be tight, and a way to get the card well in there is to rotate the wheel so the spacer is sucked in between the rotor and pad. With the spacers in place, slow and firmly pump the brake lever about 20 times. Because the spacers are in there, fluid will be forced back up into the reservoir. Finally, remove the spacers and pump the brake lever a few times. One other thing that is quick and easy to do, and often helps with brake performance. When the pad wears, the piston tends to rest farther and farther out of the caliper half. This can allow it to accumulate crud on it, and this crud will can cause a lot of stiction when new pads are installed. During the new pad installation, with the old pads removed, push easily on the brake lever so as to force the pistons out a bit. Be careful not to force them out too far. With the pistons out a bit, you can use a soft rag to clean the outside of the piston, and then apply a think layer of brake fluid. This usually makes for a piston that moves in/out much smoother. wrote in message ups.com... I replaced my rear Hayes Hydraulic disc pads. Everything went fine, exept afer I installed my wheel back, it can hardly turn, because the gap between the new pads seems to be too small. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Gap Too Tight After Replacing Disc Pads
wrote in message
oups.com... Thanks for the advice. I took out the pads and pushed the pistons further more with another ranch as a leverage and this fixed the problem. All you need is that additional paper thin clearance to let the wheel spin freely. Thanks again. Dre wrote: Yep, had the exact same problem when I changed my fronts just last week What I did was push the pistons all the way back in so the top of the piston is flush with the top of its bore. Another way is to jam the plastic card you get with the brakes in between the new pads, this also pushes the pistons back into their bores, but I find the 10mm spanner trick easier, only problem is you generally need to remove the caliper to do it. If your not pushing on the pin that holds the pad in, you can push as hard as you like, you wont break anything... HTH Cheers Dre Good work, the Hayes brakes are awesome (stopping power wise), but they can be a bit finiky to setup. Once you have them nailed though they are bloody great. Cheers Dre |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Rec.Bicycles Frequently Asked Questions Posting Part 1/5 | Mike Iglesias | General | 4 | October 29th 04 07:11 AM |
Frame/wheel flex and disc brake problem | christophe | Mountain Biking | 1 | January 31st 04 11:52 AM |
Frame/wheel flex and disc brake problem | christophe | Mountain Biking | 0 | January 27th 04 08:13 AM |
Q: Disc Brakes Squeaking | 1013 | Mountain Biking | 13 | November 15th 03 01:33 AM |
*Edit Me* - New FAQ addition on brake squeal. | ant | Techniques | 1 | July 23rd 03 06:52 AM |