Noise from new Sunrace cassette

John B. slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 14:24:45 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote:
Snipped

Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a
reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to
rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to
save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for
the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD.

I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette
bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was
a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand
new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD
because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS
Uniglide cassette bodies.


Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had,
even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws
that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed
by me).


... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't
need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those
Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point
where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket
spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a
number of those on hand waiting for that day.


That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills.
Depends on rider weight and load, of course.


Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a
9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being
shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of
the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from
and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of
those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills.

On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 -
52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong
headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired.

However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something
work with something it wasn't designed to work with.


Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this
new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its
construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on
the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car
and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am
missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to
the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used
to spinning.


Interesting. A 52/11 with a 23mm tire at a moderate 90 RPM crank speed
is about 54 KPH or 33 MPH. I read that TdF level riders will ride a 36
K time trial in the 29 - 31 MPH range.



Not to butt in but your comparing some unknown distance of a probably top
speed over unknown grade and an arbitrary rpm with a pro’s average speed
over some probably different distance and grade.

I’ve certainly used my 52/11 in the hills and I am definitely not gunning
for the TDF. Though I wouldn’t hack my cassette to achieve what I can buy
off the shelf.



--
duane

wrote:
On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 3:11:29 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 5:08:17 PM UTC-8, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 7:51:12 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 16:27, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:12:22 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 13:26, Duane wrote:
On 26/11/2018 4:18 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 12:28:11 PM UTC-8, Joerg
wrote:
On 2018-11-25 17:56, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, November 25, 2018 at 3:38:44 PM UTC-8, Sir
Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, November 25, 2018 at 4:24:40 PM UTC-5,
jbeattie wrote:

[...]


And for Sir, you can't flip HG -- at least not without
grinding. I just went and tried flipping a cog from a
junk freewheel sitting in my basement. It's a no-go.
I'll go try again just to make sure I'm not missing
anything.



-- Jay Beattie.

I'm NOT talking about flipping a HG cog onto a UG
freehub. I'm talking about flipping a HG cog on a HG
freehub.


Which can be done. The HG cogs I modded to go on UG hubs can
be mounted both ways, also on HG hubs.


CHeers

I can't get a HG cassette cog to fit on a HG freehub body
if I flip the cog. The notches are not symmetrical.


After a little dance with a Dremel you can.

Yes, if you grind off the largest tab, you can do practically
anything -- with your slop-fit sprocket transmitting torque
through probably 10% less surface area with the high gear
stopped off because its worn out. And hey, why not use four
less spokes on each wheel, no bar tape, one brake, a hose clamp
in lieu of a proper headset nut, etc., etc.


You aren't supposed to grind off all of it. Besides, even if you
did it wouldn't make a difference.

I was originally talking about flipping a HG sprocket on a HG freehub
body. If you grind down the wide tab and flip it over, you've lost
contact surface. You would not lose contact surface on a UG body --
you would just have a worn-out threaded sprocket to contend with.


On one out of nine splines. Big deal. I am not trying to win the Tour de
France or hammer up Passo Del Mortirolo with several growlers on the
rear rack.


And if having a six-speed dumpster-bike is O.K., why on earth
are you complaining about a little growling coming from your
new pie-plate sprocket? You should be happy if the wheels
turn. And you still can't fit fenders with reasonably-sized
tires, so enjoy the rainy season.


Of course this bike can have fenders, the frame is even prepared
for that. Never saw the need though. On the rear the top connector
of the panniers acts as a fender.

You said you could barely fit 25mm tires on that bike. No?


Yep. Good enough for the rides I do with this bike. Actually, since I
now have a derailer extender which allows me to ease off on the B-screw
I can move the wheel farther back and possibly mount 28mm tire. No
hardcore CX tires but maybe this kind:

https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Karvs-F.../dp/B008823EB4


Regarding dumpster bikes you'd be surprised for how much money some
of these old frames go. I will never trade my Reynolds steel frame
for a plastics bike.

Then you should treat it with respect.


Respect to me is to use a technical object to the fullest. Including
hard use and this bike has seen plenty of that. Forest autobahns and all
that.


... BTW, have you tried a modern
CF bike? A decent modern aluminum road frame? I've owned five custom
steel frames, many aluminum frames and now CF bikes. I would take a
first generation Cannondale over my '70s-80s custom steel frames. In
fact, that's just what I did. I broke a custom Columbus SP racing
frame and got a quick Cannondale replacement frame from a local shop
to continue the racing season. That was 1984, and I liked it better
than the bike it replaced. I love riding my Emonda, and the old CAAD
9 still brings a smile to my face, but that belongs to my son now.
I'm sure I would enjoy a nice modern steel frame, too, but I'm happy
with the current line-up.


I have ridden CF and aluminum road bikes. My MTB is aluminum because
when I bought it they all were. My favorite is still steel. As for CF I
am pretty sure I'd break it.



Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have
a reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to
rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to
save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for
the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD.


I've never had any issue whatsoever with hacked cassettes. Or any
other hack for that matter. What I had problems with was
"professionally" made stuff.

You need better OE. I had an old touring bike with a threaded headset
that would come loose, so I got a Gorilla Headlock -- which also
eliminated the need to carry a HS wrench on tours. No hose clamps.


Yeah, I can surely buy a new headset. However, the hose clamp took
minutes to apply and does the job. As Pa Kettle said, I'll get to it.
One of these days.


In fact, the hose-clamped steerer set on my road bike holds up
better than the newfangled modern one on my MT which needs
occasional adjustment.

The compression nut and stem clamp serve the same purpose as a hose
clamp and have more contact area. If you have issues, then it is
because of inadequate torque or a poorly faced stem or spacer.


I am by far not the only one who had to constantly re-tighten the
Shimano 600 headset no matter how hard you torque the counter nut. Well,
not anymore. On smooth asphalt it's all ok but it got loose on gravel
roads, rough surface roads or dirt roads.

Nowadays you see that problem less and less but that's because hardly
anyone has Shimano 600 anymore.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I bought a used Cannondale early on and it was so stiff that I had such
severe pain that I thought I'd have to stop and ask at someone's house
if I could use their phone. I NEVER had such pain on any of my steel
frame bicycles. I got rid of that Cannondale and kept my Tange Infinity
steel frame bike for those rides.

I have a Shimano 600 EX headset on one of my bikes and I have a
scalloped Dura Ace AX headset on another of my bikes. Neither of those
headsets keep coming loose no matter how rough the road is that I ride
on. I even ride gravel roads and some forest trails on those bikes and
still don't have a problem with things loosening up. If I did have a
headset that kept coming loose I'd figure that the threads on it are
worn or damaged somehow. I just can not see the need to use a hose
clamp to keep a headset nut where it's supposed to be.

All the steel bikes I do own do whatever job I need them to and they do
it in a manner and time constraint that's acceptable for ME. Therefore
I do not see the need to tosss them and get a new aluminium or carbon fiber frameset.

Other peoples' needs/wants might vary and thus they need/want aluminium
or carbon fiber for their framesets.


Yah, I'm not prescribing frames. People should ride what they want, but
the generic rejection of "plastic bikes" is dopey.

I broke all my steel frames and got tired of re-brazing them. I broke a
bunch of Cannondales, too -- but they gave me new ones. My current
commuter CX bike is the replacement for a bike I bought fifteen years
ago. My son's CAAD 9 is in effect a replacement for a Cannondale 2.8 I
bought in 1991 (with a few frames in between). Cannondale refused to
warranty my 1987 Black Lightning (which replaced my original 1984 frame)
because it just "wore out." Cannondale's generosity is not unlimited.

As for headsets loosening, I was responding to Joerg's comment about his
MTB, which I assume has a threadless headset. If that is loosening, it
shouldn't. My Dura Ace and 600EX headsets were also great and didn't
loosen, but the Deore 1/4 ball headset on my old T1000 did loosen, so I
used a Gorilla Headlock on that.

-- Jay Beattie.

Excluding any frame material just because is plain stupid. You can't
discuss this with the 'steel is real' people, so why bother. Tom ranted
about his CF bikes a while ago because they were so harsh that they were
practical unridable and look what he has bought lately. People believe
what the believe but it is seldom based on facts. It is just a religion
and we have already enough of that IMO.

Lou


+1

--
duane

On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:24:47 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote:
Snipped

Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a
reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to
rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to
save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for
the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD.

I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette
bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was
a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand
new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD
because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS
Uniglide cassette bodies.


Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had,
even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws
that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed
by me).


... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't
need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those
Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point
where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket
spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a
number of those on hand waiting for that day.


That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills.
Depends on rider weight and load, of course.


Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a
9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being
shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of
the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from
and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of
those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills.

On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 -
52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong
headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired.

However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something
work with something it wasn't designed to work with.


Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this
new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its
construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on
the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car
and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am
missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to
the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used
to spinning.

So, are your three lowest cogs 11, 13, 18? Is there nothing between 13 and 18?

-- Jay Beattie.

On 2018-11-26 19:43, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 14:24:45 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

[...]

Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a
9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being
shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of
the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from
and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of
those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills.

On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 -
52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong
headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired.

However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something
work with something it wasn't designed to work with.


Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this
new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its
construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on
the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car
and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am
missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to
the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used
to spinning.


Interesting. A 52/11 with a 23mm tire at a moderate 90 RPM crank speed
is about 54 KPH or 33 MPH. I read that TdF level riders will ride a 36
K time trial in the 29 - 31 MPH range.


Then there are people who prefer not to ride longer distance at 90rpm. I
often ride at 20mph and the resulting lower rpm feels just right.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2018-11-26 17:08, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 7:51:12 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 16:27, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:12:22 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:

[...]

In fact, the hose-clamped steerer set on my road bike holds up
better than the newfangled modern one on my MT which needs
occasional adjustment.

The compression nut and stem clamp serve the same purpose as a
hose clamp and have more contact area. If you have issues, then
it is because of inadequate torque or a poorly faced stem or
spacer.


I am by far not the only one who had to constantly re-tighten the
Shimano 600 headset no matter how hard you torque the counter nut.
Well, not anymore. On smooth asphalt it's all ok but it got loose
on gravel roads, rough surface roads or dirt roads.

Nowadays you see that problem less and less but that's because
hardly anyone has Shimano 600 anymore.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I bought a used Cannondale early on and it was so stiff that I had
such severe pain that I thought I'd have to stop and ask at someone's
house if I could use their phone. I NEVER had such pain on any of my
steel frame bicycles. I got rid of that Cannondale and kept my Tange
Infinity steel frame bike for those rides.

I have a Shimano 600 EX headset on one of my bikes and I have a
scalloped Dura Ace AX headset on another of my bikes. Neither of
those headsets keep coming loose no matter how rough the road is that
I ride on. I even ride gravel roads and some forest trails on those
bikes and still don't have a problem with things loosening up. If I
did have a headset that kept coming loose I'd figure that the threads
on it are worn or damaged somehow. I just can not see the need to use
a hose clamp to keep a headset nut where it's supposed to be.

All the steel bikes I do own do whatever job I need them to and they
do it in a manner and time constraint that's acceptable for ME.
Therefore I do not see the need to tosss them and get a new aluminium
or carbon fiber frameset.

Other peoples' needs/wants might vary and thus they need/want
aluminium or carbon fiber for their framesets.


I wasn't talking about you or other people, I was merely stating my
preferences and for me steel rulez.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2018-11-27 07:04, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:24:47 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote:
Snipped

Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a
reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to
rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to
save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for
the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD.

I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette
bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was
a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand
new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD
because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS
Uniglide cassette bodies.


Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had,
even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws
that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed
by me).


... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't
need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those
Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point
where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket
spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a
number of those on hand waiting for that day.


That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills.
Depends on rider weight and load, of course.


Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a
9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being
shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of
the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from
and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of
those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills.

On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 -
52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong
headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired.

However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something
work with something it wasn't designed to work with.


Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this
new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its
construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on
the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car
and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am
missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to
the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used
to spinning.

So, are your three lowest cogs 11, 13, 18? Is there nothing between 13 and 18?


Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really want
that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only supports
7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction shifters a
smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2018-11-26 19:29, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 12:28:09 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2018-11-25 17:56, jbeattie wrote:

[...]


I can't get a HG cassette cog to fit on a HG freehub body if I flip
the cog. The notches are not symmetrical.


After a little dance with a Dremel you can.

A new 10 speed free hub is less then $20. Spreading the rear fork is a
trivial task, re dishing a wheel, that is reasonably true, is simple
...


In my case, 10-speed with friction shifters would not be that great. Of
course, I could buy a new bike ...

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 19:29, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 12:28:09 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2018-11-25 17:56, jbeattie wrote:

[...]


I can't get a HG cassette cog to fit on a HG freehub body if I flip
the cog. The notches are not symmetrical.


After a little dance with a Dremel you can.

A new 10 speed free hub is less then $20. Spreading the rear fork is a
trivial task, re dishing a wheel, that is reasonably true, is simple
...


In my case, 10-speed with friction shifters would not be that great. Of
course, I could buy a new bike ...


Are you sure? :-)

On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 7:14:23 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-27 07:04, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:24:47 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote:
Snipped

Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a
reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to
rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to
save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for
the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD.

I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette
bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was
a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand
new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD
because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS
Uniglide cassette bodies.


Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had,
even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws
that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed
by me).


... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't
need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those
Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point
where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket
spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a
number of those on hand waiting for that day.


That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills.
Depends on rider weight and load, of course.


Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a
9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being
shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of
the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from
and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of
those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills.

On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 -
52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong
headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired.

However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something
work with something it wasn't designed to work with.


Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this
new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its
construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on
the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car
and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am
missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to
the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used
to spinning.

So, are your three lowest cogs 11, 13, 18? Is there nothing between 13 and 18?


Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really want
that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only supports
7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction shifters a
smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun.


https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...-expert-bz-rfe Wait for the bankruptcy to ramp-up, and the price will drop some more -- or get the same bike at the door-closing sale at your nearest Performance. Steel, 9 reasonable speeds, tire clearance, discs, etc., etc. All the things you want for your gnarly road riding in the wilds of Cameron Park. The massive Trump tax break should more than fund that bike, or at least the bar tape.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 10:14:23 AM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
Snipped

Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really want
that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only supports
7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction shifters a
smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I have two bicycles with 9 speed clusters, chain and old school friction shifters. I can shift gears on either bicycle with no problems.

YMMV and probably does.

Cheers