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#1
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Rowingbike info
I'm building a SWB/ASS. Interested to know if anybody here
has personal experience with a rowingbike with its cable drive instead of chain drive. Are the Shimano parts pretty expensive, considering that the bike can run $2,100 or so? The snek unit is the part I am considering. Anybody built a recumbent with rowingbike-style drive? |
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#2
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Building a recumbent
Update, switching to a long wheel base.
Decided against the rowingbike configuration, since several hills are considered. Anybody currently building a recumbent? Michael Baugh wrote: I'm building a SWB/ASS. Interested to know if anybody here has personal experience with a rowingbike with its cable drive instead of chain drive. Are the Shimano parts pretty expensive, considering that the bike can run $2,100 or so? The snek unit is the part I am considering. Anybody built a recumbent with rowingbike-style drive? |
#3
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Rowingbike info
"Michael Baugh" wrote in message .. . I'm building a SWB/ASS. Interested to know if anybody here has personal experience with a rowingbike with its cable drive instead of chain drive. Are the Shimano parts pretty expensive, considering that the bike can run $2,100 or so? The snek unit is the part I am considering. Anybody built a recumbent with rowingbike-style drive? I saw my first rowbike yesterday, while it may be good in some instances it looked cumbersome and slow on something like a jogging trail. |
#4
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Building a recumbent
Michael Baugh wrote:
Update, switching to a long wheel base. Decided against the rowingbike configuration, since several hills are considered. Anybody currently building a recumbent? I'm getting ready to build a wooden one for the hell of it following http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~tali...ntrick/2x4.htm Someone else who has just put down the molten metal glue gun is: http://www.hoovesofdestiny.co.uk/version2.html Otherwise this looks an easy starter way to build your own http://www.dutchbikes.nl/ -- Tony "The best way I know of to win an argument is to start by being in the right." - Lord Hailsham |
#5
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Building a recumbent
SWEET! The wooden one looks like it would be lightweight and easy
to add on things like lights and brackets for bike computer, GPS, etc. The metal one looks very involved, and that last one looks like an easy retrofit (upgrade!) project, leaving a shorter wheelbase that can still fit onto bus bike racks. "Tony Raven" wrote in message ... Michael Baugh wrote: Update, switching to a long wheel base. Decided against the rowingbike configuration, since several hills are considered. Anybody currently building a recumbent? I'm getting ready to build a wooden one for the hell of it following http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~tali...ntrick/2x4.htm Someone else who has just put down the molten metal glue gun is: http://www.hoovesofdestiny.co.uk/version2.html Otherwise this looks an easy starter way to build your own http://www.dutchbikes.nl/ -- Tony "The best way I know of to win an argument is to start by being in the right." - Lord Hailsham |
#6
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Building a recumbent
On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 15:56:56 +0000, Tony Raven
said in : Someone else who has just put down the molten metal glue gun is: http://www.hoovesofdestiny.co.uk/version2.html Hooves 2 looks quite pro, doesn't it? Guy -- http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk "To every complex problem there is a solution which is simple, neat and wrong" - HL Mencken |
#7
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Building a recumbent
Just zis Guy, you know? wrote:
On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 15:56:56 +0000, Tony Raven said in : Someone else who has just put down the molten metal glue gun is: http://www.hoovesofdestiny.co.uk/version2.html Hooves 2 looks quite pro, doesn't it? Yep, Jon's done a great job with it. I'm no good with a metal glue gun which is why I'm going to try the wooden one. But I'm going to try to build the mainframe in one piece from bent laminations. -- Tony "The best way I know of to win an argument is to start by being in the right." - Lord Hailsham |
#8
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Building a recumbent
I built a full suspension SWB with USS using carbon fiber this summer.
I used CF because I didn't want to do any welding - too much equipment and skill required, and limited choice of materials. I've put about 500 miles on the bike so far, mostly commuting to and from school carrying 10-25 lbs of books, and to my delight/surprise, it has been completely reliable. CF is pretty easy, and you can make the frame any shape you want, limited only by your ability to shape a styrofoam core, which is pretty easy to do, and cheap, so that you can make several mistakes (I mean design changes...) without it costing an arm and a leg. This was my first ever bike build, and my first ever composite project. It took about 6 weeks of a several hours per day of work, but now I could duplicate the whole thing in about 2 weeks, I think, and get cosmetically better results. I think the overall cost was about $1000, but I bought a lot of parts instead of scrounging them or taking them from another bike. In particular I paid $100 for a set of used wheels (20"), about $100 for a suspension fork (new), and $150 for a CF seat and cushion (used), $75 for the rear shock (new), and $90 for the crankset (new). Materials for the frame, including about 6 yards of CF cloth and 1/2 gal. of epoxy and hardener, cost maybe $200-250. Along the way I picked up a vacuum pump ($50) for vacuum bagging the frame, and various other items. Other parts I picked up at bike swapmeets, for very low prices. A little of the money was recovered by selling my old bike. Looking back, I could have made out better by using parts from the old bike instead of selling it, but I have a bunch of new(er) parts on the bike now instead of a bunch of much older parts. I had to fabricate dropouts (and other parts) from 1/4" aluminum plate, which turned out to be pretty easy to do, even with the minimal tools I have available. The rear swingarm is set up so that I can switch to a 26" wheel simply by moving the brake attachment point on the frame. I can also alter the steerer tube angle (and so the trail) by moving the rear shock attachment point. I have an overall gearing range of 32-192 gear-inches divided among 32 gears. I used a mid-drive to allow wide range gearing with "normal" drive train parts and eliminate chain idlers. The "front" derailleur is controlled by an S-RAM X-9 front shifter. The micro-adjust stops on the shifter correspond exactly to the gear positions on the modified 8 speed cassette at the mid drive, when pulling a Shimano rear derailleur. The top-end is much too high, so this winter I will shift the whole range down a bit- maybe to 25-150 gear-inches. The mid-drive is a rear wheel hub embedded in the frame. It also serves as the suspension pivot. I used an 8-speed cassette which I modified by removing the pawls from the freehub body and restacked the gears to suit my needs. The 30 tooth gear is used to drive the rear wheel. I discovered that cassette cogs are not designed to be drive gears, so I had to flip that one over in order to keep the chain from jumping on it. You will find out just how many little problems there are to solve whe you undertake a project like this. You will also find out a lot about yourself in the process. Photo he http://tinyurl.com/7wvns |
#9
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Building a recumbent
Do LWBs and hills go together? As I understand it, the lightly loaded
front wheel may have a tendency to lift or at least slide around if it goes onto sand/gravel, especially when going up hill. |
#10
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Building a recumbent
wrote in message ... Do LWBs and hills go together? As I understand it, the lightly loaded front wheel may have a tendency to lift or at least slide around if it goes onto sand/gravel, especially when going up hill. I haven't seen a recument yet that didn't slide around in sand and gravel |
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