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vintage road bikes
Howdy,
I'm looking for a vintage road bike for commuting. I'd spend $200-300. What are the better deals? I'm not looking for a flashy one, but I don't want a beater, either. What I do have in mind is that it should allow me to ride in a more relaxed position (i.e., not a race bike); it also should not be so obsolete that parts availability becomes a problem. Thanks for reading. -Brian |
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Hello,
You should be able to buy an older chrome moly frame for between $100-200, and maybe an aluminum frame for around $300. I just sold a 1990 Trek 330 for $100.00. Check at flea markets, yard sales, auctions, etc. Hope this helps, Larry wrote in message ups.com... Howdy, I'm looking for a vintage road bike for commuting. I'd spend $200-300. What are the better deals? I'm not looking for a flashy one, but I don't want a beater, either. What I do have in mind is that it should allow me to ride in a more relaxed position (i.e., not a race bike); it also should not be so obsolete that parts availability becomes a problem. Thanks for reading. -Brian |
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On Mon, 23 May 2005 13:23:47 -0700, uni75ca wrote:
Howdy, I'm looking for a vintage road bike for commuting. I'd spend $200-300. What are the better deals? I'm not looking for a flashy one, but I don't want a beater, either. What I do have in mind is that it should allow me to ride in a more relaxed position (i.e., not a race bike); it also should not be so obsolete that parts availability becomes a problem. What do you mean by "vintage"? Anything old enough to wear that label will have "obsolete" parts, like 126mm rear axles, 6-7-speed freewheels or early cassettes, and single-pivot brakes. Such things will present parts replacement problems. On the other hand, with a little work you can use an old frame with any mix of new and old parts, so parts availability is not the biggest issue around. Good old road bikes can be had for everything from $0 in a dumpster (if you are really lucky) to $1000+ for collectors' versions. For the best bargains, avoid Peugeot (too desirable by collectors in comparison to its quality, IMO) and most Italian brands. I think mid-80s Japanese will be your best bargain. After that come obscure brands from any country, then early US marks like Trek or Klein. Steel has the best adaptability, since you can spread the rear dropouts to accept a modern wheel. Aluminum is cheapest, and may be fine depending on prior use and quality of original frame. You don't want an old Schwinn tank for this use (if you have a boat, a Schwinn from the 70s would come in handy as an anchor), or junk like Murray or Huffy. -- David L. Johnson __o | It is a scientifically proven fact that a mid life crisis can _`\(,_ | only be cured by something racy and Italian. Bianchis and (_)/ (_) | Colnagos are a lot cheaper than Maserattis and Ferraris. -- Glenn Davies |
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Thank you, Mr. Johnson. Actually I am interested in a Trek. -Brian David L. Johnson wrote: On Mon, 23 May 2005 13:23:47 -0700, uni75ca wrote: Howdy, I'm looking for a vintage road bike for commuting. I'd spend $200-300. What are the better deals? I'm not looking for a flashy one, but I don't want a beater, either. What I do have in mind is that it should allow me to ride in a more relaxed position (i.e., not a race bike); it also should not be so obsolete that parts availability becomes a problem. What do you mean by "vintage"? Anything old enough to wear that label will have "obsolete" parts, like 126mm rear axles, 6-7-speed freewheels or early cassettes, and single-pivot brakes. Such things will present parts replacement problems. On the other hand, with a little work you can use an old frame with any mix of new and old parts, so parts availability is not the biggest issue around. Good old road bikes can be had for everything from $0 in a dumpster (if you are really lucky) to $1000+ for collectors' versions. For the best bargains, avoid Peugeot (too desirable by collectors in comparison to its quality, IMO) and most Italian brands. I think mid-80s Japanese will be your best bargain. After that come obscure brands from any country, then early US marks like Trek or Klein. Steel has the best adaptability, since you can spread the rear dropouts to accept a modern wheel. Aluminum is cheapest, and may be fine depending on prior use and quality of original frame. You don't want an old Schwinn tank for this use (if you have a boat, a Schwinn from the 70s would come in handy as an anchor), or junk like Murray or Huffy. -- David L. Johnson __o | It is a scientifically proven fact that a mid life crisis can _`\(,_ | only be cured by something racy and Italian. Bianchis and (_)/ (_) | Colnagos are a lot cheaper than Maserattis and Ferraris. -- Glenn Davies |
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Hello,
What were Trek's old naming schemes? Kind of confusing. -Brian |
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wrote:
wrote: Howdy, I'm looking for a vintage road bike for commuting. I'd spend $200-300. What are the better deals? I'm not looking for a flashy one, but I don't want a beater, either. What I do have in mind is that it should allow me to ride in a more relaxed position (i.e., not a race bike); it also should not be so obsolete that parts availability becomes a problem. Vintage and obsolete (in some sense) go hand in hand. The best deals are found at garage sales - you can find nice mid-80's japanese road bikes for $20 and less. Adding $180-280 in upgrades/improvements is more than generous if you do all the work yourself, and the resulting bike will be set up exactly as you want it. For example, this is a project I am currenty working on for my wife - none of the details are final. All prices are approximate - mostly rounded up, to give a worst case total price. Bike: mid 80's Fuji Sagres, bought at garage sale for $2 Brake upgrades: $15 new levers $15 new cables and cable housing $15 new handlebar tape (nice cork) $20 new brake pads Drivetrain upgrades/fixes: $20 new 7sp freewheel - existing freewheel is rather rusted $15 new 7sp indexed shifters $25 new large chainring - existing one is badly corroded $15 new chain - existing one is badly rusted Other: $25 new saddle $40 new stem - to fit this bike, my wife needs more height and extension $40 new tires - existing ones have damaged sidewalls. Total cost: $247. A bit much, but the stem is a killer, as is the the amount of drivetrain stuff. Actual upgrade price should be less, do to getting better prices than shown above on some items. The resulting bike will be very nice, and should fit my wife perfectly. I will probably look for a few more garage sale bikes, to more cheaply supply some of the above parts. My experience with bikes of that vintage is that the wheels are nothing I'd want to put any serious mileage on. It's real easy to get up to the price of a new bike. |
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