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#11
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Correct chain length revisited
Derk wrote:
loop the chain around the big chainring and the big cog on the rear bypassing the derailiure, match the ends up and add one link. I then consulted the Parks website and they say one should add 1 inch to the length found by using this method. According to them 1 inch=2 rivets. So are the Parks people right? 1 link = 1 inch A complete link consists of an "inny" and an "outy" Art Harris |
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#12
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Correct chain length revisited
RE/
it's inconsiderate not to post your address You're not getting enough spam yet. Wait a few months.... I'm up to a consistant 500-600 per day - but mostly for another reason. Still, I wouldn't even *think* of posting my legitimate address in a newsgroup any more than I'd put my telephone number up and ask strangers to make sales calls to it. ----------------------- PeteCresswell |
#13
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Correct chain length revisited
"Derk" wrote in message
... Bonsoir l'expert cycliste qui s'est rase la barbe depuis quelque temps! Sheldon Brown wrote: That's not the best way to go, but since it gave the same result in this instance, where's the problem? Well, I have 4 bikes and I was looking for a fool proof method that I can use quickly and reliably on all my bikes. (derk) I told my mechanic the following: put the chain over the biggest cog and big chainwheel without passing through the derailleur. Then, add 1 link to the shortest way to connect the chain. He did this and said: "it's too short"! The problem for me was the difference between links and rivets. I thought 2 rivets equalled 2 links, but I understand that's not the case. Anyway, I couldn't convince him to make the chain shorter, though I think the chain is too long, because I hear the chain rattling when I go over bumps. I think it hits the big chainring when I'm on the smaller chainring. I ride a 42/53 13-23 D-A group and I'm one of those people who go crazy of moises while riding, so I mounted a brand new D-A chain just to find out if the chain's length is to blame for the noise, or that something else is causing it. BTW: when he judged it using the method recommended by Shimano, I find that the jockey wheels are not aligned, but that the lower one is behind the upper one, but according to him one mustn't watch the center of the cage bolts, but the wheels themselves, which makes a difference IMHO. The chain dragging on the outer ring when in your small one is unrelated to chain length. Annoying, but not part of that issue. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#14
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Correct chain length revisited
A Muzi wrote:
The chain dragging on the outer ring when in your small one is unrelated to chain length. Annoying, but not part of that issue. I think I didn't describe this clearly, since I'm no Englsih native speaker: it doesn't make a continuous noise because the chain touches the big ring all the time when the chain is on the small ring, but it seems to touch the big chainring only when I go over bumps in the street, due to lateral flex which I think is caused by it's length. (lack of tension). Could that be the case? Greets, Derk |
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