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#31
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On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 15:52:16 GMT, "Peter Cole"
wrote: "Badger_South" wrote Just wanted the noobs to realize it's not that difficult to go to clipless, find a shoe, and be happy, and that going 'inexpensive' had pitfalls. But that's my point, I don't think it does have "pitfalls". Spend more if you want, but the cheap stuff works fine, particularly for entry-level road use. We'll have to agree to disagree, then, b/c I want the best shoes I can afford, but at a price/performance break, since I'm going to be in them all the time. Don't want any loose threads unravelling at the side after 6 months, etc. You do get what you pay for. Now the actual pedals, I'd say of course if you know of a 'sleeper' deal, or rebranding, by all means. I'm quite surprised, but shouldn't be, that I'm having absolutely zero problems, no knee pain, nothing. Granted I've not taken this system on a very long ride, and that may be when problems show up. Knee problems do only show up after significant mileage. My experience has been that setting toe-in angle of the cleat is necessary, float isn't. Yeah, my right foot feels perfect. (we'll see), but the left foot seems like the neutral position is "\", or slightly toed-out, and my foot wants to be more "|", or straight ahead - it feels slightly like it's slipping to the toe-out on the left, and holding perfectly straight on the right. Both were set up the same, AFAIK. But I'm loving them on the foothills! I'm getting so much power, I'm almost skipping the back wheel when sprinting uphill and quickly accelerating. You're getting more force. Any pedal that keeps your foot attached allows you to pull up, achieving more force. Consider for a moment, if you haven't already, what happens if that pedal should release when you're pulling up hard. Pulling up is not necessary or desirable outside of racing. It's a *really* bad idea when you're a clipless newb. Now we say 'pull up', but I don't have any conscious notion of doing that, though I must be. Definitely feel like my pedal 'circle' needs to be more level - with toeclips I was pointing my toe too much, as I now know. Thanks for the comments. -B |
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#32
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On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 08:24:57 -0500, Badger_South
wrote: On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 13:05:39 GMT, "Peter Cole" wrote: "Badger_South" wrote Think about it, though. You get an inexpensive pedal and an inexpensive shoe and it might work for you, but for most newbies, I say get solid middle-of-the-line shoes, be prepared to pay 50-80 bucks. You -do- get what you pay for. You'll presumably be using these for 20-30 days per month you want something that's durable, functional and comfortable. You go cheap on the shoe and I'd wonder if you'd not regret that. You also want them to look cool. Again, spending a lot of time in them. On the pedals, don't get the very bottom of the line, go up one and get the SPD M520. Solid performers and something that you're gonna be depending to quite heavily. Wellgo is a brand of Taiwanese pedals that is re-labeled by several brands (Performance, Nashbar, Ritchey). Wellgo pedals are generally very good, and half the price of Shimano equivalent. Wellgo "SPD-style" pedals come with a variety of cleats. Some are interchangeable with Shimano, some not. I've found that the pedals with the "98A" cleat usually are (both ways). I have a few sets of "bottom-of-the-line" Shimano (515). I think I paid $32 last year. They're fine, and considering they come with cleats (most pedals do), which cost $20 separately, they were quite the deal. Perfectly good Wellgo pedals are often sold as low as $20. Road use is simple compared to off-road, anything that works well for MTB is fine for the road, spending a little more for MTB pedals might be a good idea, since the application is much more demanding. Good to know, and if you're experienced at this, it's silly -not- to shop for deals. (note I said 'for most newbies'). Just wanted the noobs to realize it's not that difficult to go to clipless, find a shoe, and be happy, and that going 'inexpensive' had pitfalls. If you're an experienced cyclist and you're taking your noob buddy in to get shoes, and help with the selection, then sure, try some rebranded stuff. I'm quite surprised, but shouldn't be, that I'm having absolutely zero problems, no knee pain, nothing. Granted I've not taken this system on a very long ride, and that may be when problems show up. I'm planning on getting in a modest 30 miles or more this weekend on the flats to see how things go, and then move up the distance. But I'm loving them on the foothills! I'm getting so much power, I'm almost skipping the back wheel when sprinting uphill and quickly accelerating. -B I'll go to the LBS, prepared with potential prices. I like the guys and want to help keep them in business, so if it costs a bit more, that's ok. They're there when I need them. |
#33
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dgk what? writes:
Ok, I've seen guys get of those "clipless" pedals and they clunk around in those shoes. So if I go this route then I have to walk around in these things until I can get to my office and change back to sneakers (my normal cycling gear)? SPD cleats are recessed and the Shimano TO-93 shoe is a convenient walking shoe while not compromising its bicycling features. It has good rubber soles. Jobst Brandt |
#34
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dabac writes:
Rotation release came to bicycling from skiing where step-in engagement and rotation release was introduced years earlier Came from skiing? Unless you mean the very basic principle of push down to engage - twist to disengage I find it very hard to seen a carryover between skiing and cycling in this case. Look was the company that first mass marketed the ski binding and later the bicycle cleat/pedal. And at the push-and-twist level I think an explanation along the lines of parallell evolution is more probable. After all, how many realistic alternative methods are there to engage/disengage your foot from the pedal? (hand operated? - no great improvement from clip+strap) (pull to disengage - how to separate between power pull and dismount pull?) (Push to disengage - see above (pull to engage - that'd be a conflict of forces!) (twist to engage - that could work...) You can be sure the people in the business have studies this. I think the current SPD cleat has the fewest drawbacks. Jobst Brandt |
#35
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Benjamin Lewis wrote:
Blair P. Houghton wrote: do not spam wrote: Clipless are easier to get out of than toe clips. Depends on how experienced you are with either. Perhaps, but in my experience clipless were *much* easier to get out of when I'd had about equal experience with each. This probably depends somewhat on clipless pedal design, how tight you like your straps to be, etc. ....and whether you used both cleats and clips... --Blair "Which I never did." |
#36
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Blair P. Houghton wrote:
Benjamin Lewis wrote: Blair P. Houghton wrote: do not spam wrote: Clipless are easier to get out of than toe clips. Depends on how experienced you are with either. Perhaps, but in my experience clipless were *much* easier to get out of when I'd had about equal experience with each. This probably depends somewhat on clipless pedal design, how tight you like your straps to be, etc. ...and whether you used both cleats and clips... --Blair "Which I never did." I didn't either, and I kept my straps loose enough that I could pull out fairly easily without loosening them by hand. I still find it significantly easier to get out of my clipless pedals. -- Benjamin Lewis Evelyn the dog, having undergone further modification, pondered the significance of short-person behavior in pedal-depressed panchromatic resonance and other highly ambient domains... "Arf", she said. |
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