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aus.bicycle FAQ (Monthly(ish) Posting)
I'm still unable to post the FAQ to the group. It hit a low point when the support from my ISP asked "what is the IP Address of aus.bicycle"... *sigh* So, once again, here's some links: Text http://maddogsbreakfast.com.au/ABFAQ...icycle.FAQ.txt HTML http://maddogsbreakfast.com.au/ABFAQ...cycle.FAQ.html If someone (not connected via Dart Internet / Connect.com) would like to have a go at posting the text version of the FAQ that would be good. cheers, -kt |
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aus.bicycle FAQ (Monthly(ish) Posting)
aus.bicycle FAQ
Last updated 23-FEB-2004 Welcome to the aus.bicycle FAQ This is a compendium of Frequently Asked Questions from the newsgroup aus.bicycle, some of them even have answers. The lastest version is always available from: Text http://maddogsbreakfast.com.au/ABFAQ...icycle.FAQ.txt HTML http://maddogsbreakfast.com.au/ABFAQ...cycle.FAQ.html This document is Copyright (c) 2004 Kingsley Turner. Permission is granted to distribute this document on the criteria that it is remains unmodified, and it is not sold for profit. 1 - Bicycling Resources & Propaganda 1.1 What other bicycle newsgroups are there? 1.2 What are some good cycling websites? 1.3 What are some good mailing lists? 1.4 What are some good cycling (paper) publications? 2 - Riding 2.1 Miscellany 2.1.1 What do I do about this f@#$%^ing Magpie? 2.1.2 Why do you shave your legs? 2.2 Kids 2.2.1 What are the options for carrying (non-riding) children by bike? 2.2.2 Which is better: child seat or trailer? 2.3 Touring 2.4 Organised Rides 2.4.1 Miscellany 2.4.1.1 What are the major events on the Australian Cycling Calendar? 2.4.1.2 What is Critical Mass? 2.4.2 Clubs & BUGs 2.4.3 Polaris 2.4.4 Road Racing 2.4.4.1 The TdF: What do the coloured jerseys mean? 2.4.5 Couriers 2.5 Laws, Accidents & Road Rage 2.5.1 I've been involved in an accident, what do I do? 2.5.2 I've been a victim of road rage, what do I do? 2.6 Training, Fitness & Weight 2.6.1 Reducing Body Fat 2.6.2 How do I calculate my BMR (Basil Metabolic Rate)? 3 - Gear 3.1 Miscellany 3.1.1 What does bike insurance cover? 3.2 Shopping 3.2.1 What online bike stores are there? 3.2.2 Can I save money by importing gear myself? 3.2.3 Where can I buy a 2nd-hand bike? 3.3 Custom Built 3.3.1 Does anyone know a good frame builder? 3.3.2 Does anyone know a good wheel builder? 3.4 Parts & Maintenance 3.4.1 Miscellany 3.4.1.1 When should I use the yellow lenses with my glasses? 3.4.2 Lights 3.4.2.1 Where can I get a cheap Vistalite Nightstick battery? 3.4.2.2 Can someone recommend a smart charger? 3.4.3 Brakes 3.4.3.1 My brakes are squealing! ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- 1 Bicycling Resources & Propaganda: 1.1 What other bicycle newsgroups are there? * aus.bicycle * uk.rec.cycling - Much like aus.bicycle * rec.bicycles.marketplace - Bike stuff for sale * rec.bicycles.misc - General bike discussion * rec.bicycles.off-road * rec.bicycles.racing * rec.bicycles.rides - About touring, but sometimes not * rec.bicycles.soc - The social ascpects of cycling * rec.bicycles.tech - Technical Q&A * alt.collecting.bicycles * alt.rec.bicycles.recumbent * alt.mountain-bike 1.2 What are some good cycling websites? * Cycling News: www.cyclingnews.com - Packed with news & reports. * Audax Australia: www.audax.org.au * Bicycle Fish: users.chariot.net.au/~gloria - Australian Bicycle Touring. * Aussie Cycling: www.aussiecycling.com.au/cycling - Books, links & for sale. * Tandem Club of Australia: home.vicnet.net.au/~tandem/ * Biking Asia with Mr Pumpy: www.mrpumpy.net - Bicycle touring South-east Asia. * Bicycle Victoria: www.bv.com.au * Bicycle NSW: www.bicyclensw.org.au * Pedal Power ACT: www.pedalpower.org.au * Bicycle SA: www.bikesa.asn.au * Bicycle Tasmania: www.biketas.org.au * OzHPV: sunsite.anu.edu.au/community/ozhpv/ (non-aussie pages) * MTB Review: www.mtbreview.com - User reviews of bike gear. * Ken Kifer's Bike Pages: www.kenkifer.com/bikepages * Sheldon Brown's: www.sheldonbrown.com - Bike gear and repairs 1.3 What are some good cycling mail lists? * Phreds Bicycle Touring: www.phred.org/mailman/listinfo/touring - Bicycle Touring, and sometimes unrelated topics (can be very high volume). * Hobbes Tandem List: www-acs.ucsd.edu/home-pages/wade/tandem.html - Tandem Everything (moderate volume). 1.4 What are some good cycling (paper) publications? Magazine What's it about Australian Cyclist Bit of a mix: bike politics, touring, lists of clubs and diary of club rides, occasional gear review. Not usually any road racing news. Six issues a year, available at most newsagents and bike shops. RIDE Cycling Review Completely covers the bicycle racing scene, including both road and track. Has great gear reviews, although it does tend towards the top-end stuff. Six issues a year, available some newsagents, and bike shops Cycling Australia Covers racing, road & track. Always has reviews of high-end bikes, the occasional maintenance tip, and a bit of cycling gossip. Published five times a year Mountain Biking Australia As above, but for mountain bikes. Australian Mountain Bike Covers the mountain bike racing scene in detail, usually has interviews with Aussie riders, gear review, maintenance and (technical) riding tips. Six issues a year. Velovision (UK) This is an exceedingly interesting magazine, it focus is mainly bicycles as transport (or maybe 'bikes as a part of life'), with a heavy bent towards recumbent and other non-mainstream cycling. It does have a British and European focus, but contains articles sourced from all over the world. Available (at least) at Cheeky Monkey in Sydney. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- 2.2 Riding: Kids 2.2.1 What are the options for carrying (non-riding) children by bike? This mostly depends on your childs age and capability: Child Seats: There are two types of child carriers, the ubiquitous rear-rack mounted seats, and the seats that mount on the handlebars so that the child sits between the arms of the rider. Trailer Bikes: A trailer bike is basically the back-half of a diamond-frame bike. There is no front wheel, but a tow arm that commonly connects to the seatpost or under the seat. These require some bike riding skills and balance, but not steering. Trailers: These are usually tethered to the bike by a socket-jointed tow-arm to the left chainstay. They can hold one or two children, who are held in with a seatbelt, but are still requried to wear a helmet. It's common for trailers to come with instructions that specify the minimum child age of 1 year. 2.2.2 Which is better: child seat or trailer? Kingsley Turner wrote in aus.bicycle: Both of these have pros and cons: Both: * Child needs decent head control, approx 1 year old although I read about someone who strapped their car capsule into a trailer. * Adds at least a little weight to the bike, effecting handling. Seats: * Cheap - sub $100 for rear model, around $200 for a front. * Back & front (Bobike mini) available * Child is exposed to the elements * Child goes over with the bike in a crash (seen this happen twice) * You can talk quite easily with your child * Must be cautious that legs are properly strapped in (and not near spokes/wheels) * Loose usage/access to rear rack Trailer: * Expensive ($500-$1000) * Can hold 2 kids (Trek models up to 45kg) * Bike can stack, but trailer stays put * Slim chance of rolling it if you clip a gutter in exactly the wrong way at speed * Difficult to talk to your kids, near impossible with the plastic weather-shield down * Child is not exposed to the weather (don't forget hot sunny days too) and is toasty warm in winter/rain. * Weighs about 10-12kg depending on the model * Has plenty of 'boot' space for nappy bags, drinks, food, spare change of clothes, big doll, and the other doll. * Food & drink tends to get trampled into the floor (but you can just about hose it out) * High wind-resistance * Makes your bike into a wide load, watch the bollards on bike paths! * Weight of children is not directly on the bike * Can convert some trailers into a stroller (very important for touring) As you can probably guess most of my experience is with trailer. We towed both the brats 1200km touring last year (and many km since) When they weren't being towed, they were being parambulated with the stroller conversion kit engaged. For quick trips, the seat is probably better/quicker but for longer ones the trailer is great. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- 2.1.1 Riding: Miscellany 2.2.1 What do I do about this f@#$%^ing Magpie? (i) Ride fast, duck oppertunely! 2.2.2 Why do you shave your legs? (i) It makes applying first-aid/bandages simpler. (ii) It looks and feels good. (iii) Andrew Morris wrote in aus.bicycle: Have you ever had gravel nail brushed out of hairy legs??? (iv) Paul J wrote in aus.bicycle: ... Reasons include; it feels damn nice, it look's good (so I'm told) and after a 120km ride the much needed massage afterward is so much better and easier. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- 2.4.1 Riding: Organised Rides: Miscellany 2.4.1.1 What are the major events on the Australian Cycling Calendar? What When Where Audax Alpine Classic Australia Day See www.audax.org.au weekend Around the Bay in a Day ? Melbourne Tour Down Under January Usually around Adelaide and Adelaide Hills Sydney to the 'Gong First Sunday in Two start locations, one in Sydney, the other closer November to Woolongong. See www.msnsw.org.au/oe for further information. Cycle Sydney Late November A mass-ride through the heart of Sydney See www.bicyclensw.org.au for further information. RTA Big Ride: 8 days of Varies, but once per Changes each year, always around New South Wales. supported bicycle-touring. year 2.4.1.2 What is Critical Mass? "Critical Mass is a monthly bicycle ride to celebrate cycling and to assert cyclists' right to the road." Probably the most spectacular thing about this assertion is that it happens during peak-hour traffic. For more information visit: www.criticalmass.org.au or criticalmassrides.info ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- 2.4.4 Riding: Organised Rides: Road Racing 2.4.4.1 The TdF: What do the coloured jerseys mean? Yellow - The daily overall leader by general classification (time minus bonuses). Green - The sprint leader, by points awarded at specific locations throughout the stages. Polka-dot - The 'King of the Mountains', by points are awarded for each climb. White - awarded to the fastest rider aged under 25. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- 2.5 Riding: Laws, Accidents & Road Rage 2.5.1 I've been a involved in an accident, what do I do? You must call the police if anyone is injured. Whether or not you must call them for other circumstances varies from state to state. You may be legally required to give identification details to the other parties involved. You may also have to report the accident within 24 hours. Get name, address, and licence (if a car) details from the other party, you may also want to collect details from a witness. 2.5.2 I've been a victim of road rage what do I do? (i) Report it to the police, try to include details like the rego number (ii) Claire Petersky wrote in rec.bicycles.misc: One car-full of passing geniuses suggested that I get off the copulating road. Only they didn't say copulating. I was a bit surprised that the road could do that -- that asphalt certainly doesn't look like it reproduced that way. No, no, you misunderstood their intentions. The road does not copulate with itself. Rather, it is *you* who is partnered with the road. Have you not had a day, where you get out there on your bike, and there is the road before you, warm, inviting? It feels good, it smells good, it almost seems to taste good to be on it. Some days you start out eager, knowing what lies ahead. Other days you start out a little reluctantly -- surely you have better things to do -- clean the house, mow the lawn -- but here you are anyway, your bike and the road together, and after a little bit you know its going to be a good time. There are days when you dominate the road. It does your bidding. You groove on your control. There are other days when the road is your master. You submit to its demands. You get a perverted pleasure from the pain of your burning legs, your oxygen-starved lungs screaming for air. In any of these instances, though, you with your bike, and the road, are lovers. The term, "get off" as we all know, is a slang term that means to "derive pleasure". Thus, the encouraging, if crude, words, "Get off the ****ing road" can be understood as "Enjoy yourself as you and the road make beautiful love together". To take this a step further -- in many mystical traditions, the physical act of love is understood as a metaphor for the spiritual union of human with the Divine. Can you ride as if you and the Road are One? The mudra of the single upraised digit is a reminder of this oneness: unity in Christ Consciousness, being at one with the Tao, La illaha Il' Allah, Adonai Echad. Thus, when someone makes this gesture at you, you should understand that they are wishing you the experience of this ecstatic union. The horn that is honked as the mudra is made is a meditation bell. Like a church bell, like the call of the muezzin's voice, it calls you into this sacred space of union, of you, your bike, and the road, as One. Thus, when the motorist honks his horn, raises the single digit, and makes his sincere invocation, you have but one response: to smile, to wave, and return to the joy of riding your bike. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- 2.6 Riding: Training, Fitness & Weight 2.6.1 Reducing Body Fat (i) DMR wrote in aus.bicycles: There's no way you can advise anyone on their recommended daily fat consumption without knowing enough about their physiology, lifestyle and goals to properly calculate their actual calorific consumption, their BMR and then set their targets accordingly. I am currently reducing my body fat% and I'm eating accordingly - yet my recommended daily fat intake is (just checking the spreadsheet) 49.5grams. And I've lost about three kilos so far. The problem with the low fat message is that it's bull**** and any honest nutritionist will tell you the food pyramid we've grown up with is just accurate enough to be dangerous (there's a new one due out soon). For the past twenty to thirty years we've been steadily reducing our fat intake and yet as a society we've been getting steadily fatter. Think about it. I don't advocate a full Atkins diet (too many saturated fats for starters) but he was right about one thing: if you want to lose body fat you need to reduce your *carbohydrate* consumption. Cutting your fats intake - and you need the good fats, the poly- and monounsaturated ones, plus Omega-3 etc. - without cutting your *sugar* intake (which, at the end of the day, is all carbohydrates are) is a recipe for... (wait for it)... GETTING FAT! Broadly speaking the macronutritional breakdown for someone exercising regularly should be (in this order of importance): Protein: 0.8g/lb Lean Body Mass (that's your weight minus your fat). Fats: About 33% of your target calories, of which saturated fats should be 33% or less. Carbohydrates: Whatever is left. The thing is this. Your body is incredibly good at keeping itself alive and it will use whatever it has to. Having said that, it prefers certain energy sources to others, and since losing or gaining weight is ultimately all about manipulating energy levels you can use that fact to your advantage. Roughly speaking your body will use carbohydrates, then fats and lastly proteins as sources of energy. So, when you cut back on the carbohydrates it will go for the fat stores next - which is what you want. However, don't cut your calorie intake too far below maintenance or your body will kick into starvation mode, and it will do everything it can to avoid using its fat stores, so it will start targetting your muscles. Breaking down proteins to use as energy is inefficient but in starvation mode it will do that rather than use your fat stores. So, having calculated your BMR and your actual daily calorific consumption, if you want to lose weight healthily set a target daily calorific consumption about 500 calories below maintenance, keep your protein and fat intake at their correct levels, drop your *carbohydrate* consumption heavily - and you'll see your body fat% drop slowly but steadily. There's roughly 3,500 calories per pound of fat so this regime should consume about one pound of fat per week, not including any loss of weight due to water loss. (ii) Gags wrote in aus.bicycles: The 65% to 85% max HR range is actually more like the range to train in to increase cardiovascular fitness (good for base training and general fitness). Sure, you will burn fat at these intensities but if fat loss is your main goal, then you are actually better off training at about 45% to 65% of max HR. The catch is that this only rings true if the distance is the same rather than the time (ie 1 hr @ 45-65% will not burn more fat than 1 hr @ 65% to 85%, but, 47km @ 45-65% will utilise more fat than 47km @ 65-85%). As with most things you have to compromise depending on how much time you have available and what your long term goals are. [...] If you want to lose weight, you should concentrate on LSD training (don't get excited, it means Long, Slow, Distance). Basically you need to have your body utilising its aerobic energy systems and to do this you need to exercise at a moderate intensity for long periods of time. She is especially correct in that what you eat plays a big part in your results. As you have not said what your current situation is (could range from wanting to lose a couple of kg for summer to up in the obese range), it is hard to know what your final goals are. 2.6.2 How do I calculate my BMR (Basil Metabolic Rate)? (i) Gags wrote in aus.bicycles: BMR = 66 + (13.7 x weight(kg)) + (5 x height(cm)) - (6.8 x age) kcal (ii) DMR wrote in aus.bicycles: I use the ISSA Basil Metabolic Rate (BMR) formula: 1. For Men: 1 x body weight (kg) x 24 For Women: 0.9 x body weight (kg) x 24 For you, that's 95 * 24 = 2280. 2. Factor in your body fat percentage. Multiply the result from Step 1 by the multiplier factor: Men 10 to 14%, Women 14 to 18%: 1.0 Men 14 to 20%, Women 18 to 28%: 0.95 Men 20 to 28%, Women 28 to 38%: 0.90 Men over 28%, Women over 38%: 0.85 For the sake of illustration I'll assume you're in the 20-28% group, therefo 2280 * 0.90 = 2052 calories per day. This is your BMR. It's your base rate. 3. Factor in your daily activity level. Multiply your BMR by the daily activity level multiplier factor: The Average Couch Potato range: 1.30 (130%) = Very Light: Sitting, studying, talking, little walking or other activities through out the day 1.55 (155%) = Light: Typing, teaching, lab/shop work, some walking throughout the day The Average Fitness Buff Range: 1.55 (155%) = Light: Typing, teaching, lab/shop work, some walking throughout the day 1.65 (165%) = Moderate: Walking, jogging, gardening type job with activities such as cycling, tennis, dancing, skiing or weight training 1-2 hours per day The Average Athlete or Hard Daily Training Range: 1.80 (180%) = Heavy: Heavy manual labor such as digging, tree felling, climbing, with activities such as football, soccer or body building 2-4 hours per day 2.00 (200%) = Very Heavy: A combination of moderate and heavy activity 8 or more hours per day, plus 2-4 hours of intense training per day For the sake of illustration I'll put you in the moderate group, therefo Actual Daily Calories = 2052 * 1.65 = 3386 calories (* 4.18 = 14153 kiloJoules) per day. This is how much you use every day on average. As a general rule, if you want to lose weight then consume fewer calories than this every day (start at -500 and see how you go), if you want to increase weight consume more (start at +500 and see how you go): Target calories: Maintenance: 3386 calories Gain: 3886 calories (maintenance +500) Loss: 2886 calories (maintenance -500). 4. (a) Protein: 0.8g/lb LBM. For the sake of illustration I'll assume your body fat % is 20%. Since your weight is 95kg (209lb) that would give you a LBM of 76kg (167.2lb) and therefore your protein intake should be 0.8 * 167.2 = 134 grams = 536 calories. (b) Fats: Roughly (Target calories * 1/3). Since we're assuming weight loss that would be (2886 * 0.3) = 866 calories = 96 grams. No more than (96/3 =) 32 grams of that should be saturated fats, preferably less. Rule of thumb: poly and mono-unsaturated fats and Omega3 fatty acids good, saturated fats not so good, trans fats bad. (c) Carbs: Whatever is left. 2886 - 536 - 866 = 1484 calories = 371 grams. There's a bit of flexibility in these targets but as long as you're fairly close over the long haul they'll work for sustainable weight loss. The same would go for maintenance or weight gain. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- 3.1 Gear: Miscellany 3.1.1 What does bicycle insurance cover? The general answer is it depends. Things like insurance policies are in a constant state of flux - (did you notice that standard exclusions now include "Terrorist Attack"), so any information presented here should be taken as a rough-guide only. You will really have to do the research yourself, particularly with respect to different premmium providers. Membership of your state bicycle body (e.g.: BNSW/BVIC) often includes 3rd-party style insurance, some offering insurance for the rider for an extra premium. General household policies usually cover the bike at home, but perhaps only to a certain value. Check with your insurance provider to find out if/what that value is, and if the bike needs to be specifically mentioned in the policy. Be careful about exclusions on "Sporting Goods", even if you never ride your bike as sport. Travel Insurance will readily cover a bicycle (obviously only during travel), but only to a certain value, and can be very expensive. Usually the bike is not covered for damage during use. It is possible to get general bicycle insurance, even with extensions for overseas travel. It will have conditions like "bike only covered for theft if securely locked to an immovable object", and you may have to get a written valuation from your LBS. The best bet for finding out who supplies this sort of cover in your state is to contact your state bicycling body. Reported policy costs (per annum) have been around 10% bike value. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- 3.2 : Gear: Shopping 3.2.1 What online bike stores are there? Limited to web sites where you can actually complete a purchase online: * Phantom Cycles - www.phantomcycles.com.au * Dean Woods Direct - www.deanwoods.com.au * Cecil Walker - www.cecilwalker.com.au * VicMtb - www.vicmtb.com.au * Wooly's Wheels - www.woolyswheels.com.au * Ferntree Gully Cycles - www.ferntreegullycycles.com.au * Bicycling Direct - www.bicyclingdirect.com * Netti - www.netti.com.au 3.2.2 Can I save money by importing gear myself? Well, sometimes yes. Local stores must charge you GST, and have already paid most of the shipping. Depending on the value of what you import, you will be charged GST by customs and perhaps duty too. Before you buy, ensure sizing and specifications are absolutely correct, and for electrical equipment (e.g. battery chargers) are compatible with the local system. Also work out what will happen for warranty returns. So factor in shipping, GST, possible customs duty, currency conversion charges (especially with credit card transactions), compatibility and then compare the cost. Less calcuable costs are warranty return problems, and discounts you might accrue via shop loyalty. Certain shops will also give a significant percentage discount to state-bicycle-body members, for example: BNSW card holders can get 5-10% off gear most places. (i) ftf wrote in aus.bicycle: If you get it delivered through a courier expect to pay all the fees (tax, duty, processing fee) and if through the post you will most likely pay none (if the total order is less than $500 AUD). 3.2.3 Where can I buy a 2nd-hand bike? * The Trading Post newspaper / www.tradingpost.com.au. * Bicycling Australia classifides: www.bicyclingaustralia.com.au/ba/classifides. * Mountain Bike Australia (MTBA): www.mtba.asn.au/buy_sell. * EBay www.ebay.com.au - know your prices though. * Victoria: * Bicycle Recycle - South Rd, Oakleigh * Freedom Machine - Prahran * Cecil Walker - Melbourne ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- 3.3 Gear: Custom Built 3.3.1 Does anyone know a good frame builder? * Paconi in Melbourne * JB Cycles in Sydney 3.3.2 Does anyone know a good wheel builder? * Adam at Cheeky Monkey Bicycle Company, Sydney. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------- 3.4 Gear: Parts & Maintenance 3.4.1 Gear: Parts & Maintenance: Miscellany 3.4.1.1 When should I use the yellow lenses with my glasses? John Retchford wrote in aus.bicycle: Light is scattered by particles, water vapour, droplets and the atmosphere itself. The shorter wavelengths (blue end) is scattered through greater angles than the longer wavelengths (red end). This is why the sky looks blue away from the sun. More blue light is scattered back to the eye from rays that would not otherwise reach you. Yellow lenses cut the blue end of the spectrum and thus the more highly scattered light, leaving a higher proportion of the direct light. This has the effect of increasing contrast, especially in conditions of flat light due to light cloud, mist or fog. This is why fog lights are usually yellow. Try the yellow lenses in low, flat light and save the clear lenses for darkness, where you want the maximum light transmission and where scattering is not much of a problem. 3.4.2 Gear: Parts & Maintenance: Lights 3.4.2.1 Where can I get a cheap Vistalite Nightstick battery? Nick Payne wrote in aus.bicycle: I made my own stick batteries. It cost about $55 for 10 2.9Ah NiMH sub-C cells with solder tags from Jaycar - enough for two sticks. I used garden irrigation pipe and endcaps to make the stick. I already had the pipe etc lying around from having installed an irrigation system in my garden, but they're not expensive items. I also needed a couple of sockets to fit the plugs on the Vistalite cables. So total cost was around $70 plus a few hours of time. 3.4.2.1 Can someone recommend a smart charger? Nick Payne wrote in aus.bicycle: See www.angelfire.com/electronic/hayles/charge1.html. I built a couple of these, with the addition of a switch to toggle a resistor so that I can charge either 6v or 12v. They work fine with bottle batteries and stick batteries. 3.4.3 Gear: Parts & Maintenance: Brakes 3.4.3.1 My brakes are squealing! (i) Joesph wrote in aus.bicycle: If I haven't used my bike for a week or so I find that the brakes sometimes squeak. My solution last time was to check the toe in (this didn't help). Then I cleaned the rims with methylated spirits and I also rubbed down the rims with a soft brass bristles brush. This stopped the squeak and now everything is quiet. (ii) Kingsley wrote in aus.bicycle: You could try some more up-market brake pads. Supposedly Kool-Stop 'Salmon' brake pads are good at stopping brake squeal. (iii) stu wrote in aus.bicycle: Toe in to reduce squeal, but not too much or the brakes will become too spongy. It will also wear a curve into the front of the pad. Greasing the pivots can help too. (iv) tony R wrote in uk.rec.cycling: My current pads of choice (with V-brakes on the commuter), Clarkes red coloured ones, always squeal when new or when the rim has just been cleaned. I presume the latter is because I carelessly leave some soap or whatever on the rims (although I always finish up with a rub down with meths - for the rims that is). However as the noise disappears after a few miles once some crap from the road is picked up, I'm not too bothered. Maybe you've got some unwanted residue on your front rim? (v) Zog The Undeniable wrote in uk.rec.cycling: [...] "Parallel push" V-brakes can suffer from this when the pivots wear a bit. (iv) Pete Biggs wrote in uk.rec.cycling: This can be really tricky to solve sometimes. You do everything right and the brakes STILL squeal like a massivley amplified goose :-( Change of pads is your best bet - after making sure there's no grease on the rim. Toe-in doesn't always help. Flex in the brake/forke can be a factor, but a brake booster (on v-brakes) can sometimes make the problem worse. All trademarks are property of their respective owners |
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aus.bicycle FAQ (Monthly(ish) Posting)
"kingsley" wrote in message
Text http://maddogsbreakfast.com.au/ABFAQ...icycle.FAQ.txt HTML http://maddogsbreakfast.com.au/ABFAQ...cycle.FAQ.html If someone (not connected via Dart Internet / Connect.com) would like to have a go at posting the text version of the FAQ that would be good. Well, it posted fine from netspace except for the dodgy fomatting changes that Outlook probably made.. grrr! hippy |
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aus.bicycle FAQ (Monthly(ish) Posting)
I'm still unable to post the FAQ to the group. It hit a low point when the support from my ISP asked "what is the IP Address of aus.bicycle"... *sigh* lol. now I would think that is a high point. I think I would have had to laugh at them for a while. How do the other groups do it? They seem to be automated. Peter |
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