Motorcycle/alternative chain usage?

Hi - (I'm new here),

I was wondering if anyone here had any insight on whether it may be
possible/useful/practical/worthwhile to use a motorcycle chain or some
other heavy duty chain on a *blanked-out cassette* single-speed bike to
create a ultra-durable drivetrain. Since narrower chains are generally
less durable, I'm assuming a motorbike chain would go for ages (or your
entire life?), and they seem to be available in hundreds of different
pitches - (1 inch included?)

The mental picture I have would be to sandwich 2/3 identical chainrings
together or to place them either side of the spider leaving an empty
gap inbetween such that the effective width matches the plate
seperation of the larger chain. On the rear, I was thinking several
sandwiched sprockets (the singlespeed pronounced-tooth [not hyperglide]
variety that install on to Shimano freehub bodies) would build up the
required thickness needed. More weight, more friction etc, but
winter-proof?

Or I am I just being silly... ?

- Bernie Sluzalek

On 2 Jan 2006 09:26:17 -0800, wrote:

I was wondering if anyone here had any insight on whether it may be
possible/useful/practical/worthwhile to use a motorcycle chain or some
other heavy duty chain on a *blanked-out cassette* single-speed bike to
create a ultra-durable drivetrain.

Or I am I just being silly... ?

Yes.

A complete singlespeed drivetrain (DMR ring, SRAM PC48 chain, Shimano
DX sprocket) only costs about GBP30. The only way to get a real
improvement is to get an o-ring chain, which will be about 45GBP just
for the chain for a 428 (1/2" x 5/16") chain. You'll probably have to
shave the spider or rings to get your two 3/32" rings 1/8" or less
apart, although the sprocket end should work fine with just a 3mm
spacer between two sprockets. Now you have a very heavy and draggy
95GBP drivetrain Still with me? You'll need a motorcycle duty chain
breaker/riveter too, at about 87GBP (prices from B&C, the UK
motorcyclists' first stop for drivetrain components)

Sure it will last a long time, if you keep it clean and properly
lubed. But so would the 6 complete bicycle drivetrains you could have
bought for the same money, and your bike will be more fun to ride
without those extra 2lb of transmission holding you back.

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

I guess I won't be trying that then. And thankyou for your wisdom!


- Bernie

wrote:
Hi - (I'm new here),

I was wondering if anyone here had any insight on whether it may be
possible/useful/practical/worthwhile to use a motorcycle chain or some
other heavy duty chain on a *blanked-out cassette* single-speed bike to
create a ultra-durable drivetrain....

If you want an "ultra-durable" single-speed or fixed gear
drivetrain, what you need is a full chain case to keep road grit off
the chain, as it is the particles (typically quartz) that are harder
than the chain steel that cause most of the wear. As has been noted
several times before, the exposed drive chain on a motorcycle will need
to be replaced many times before the internal chain (of similar
construction) that connects the engine to the transmission needs to be
replaced.

--
Tom Sherman - Fox River Valley

wrote:
I guess I won't be trying that then. And thankyou for your wisdom!


- Bernie

Well, shucks...

If you wanted to try some ultra-tuff bike parts, you could use the
drivetrain off of a BMX "freestyle" bike. Some of them use 3/16" thick
sprockets and appropriate chain. That's extreme overkill for your use,
though.

I'd have to agree that the best solution is standard chain, enclosed in
a chaincase. I've extracted chains from chaincases that have been seen
occasional use for 20 years (judging by the condition of the rest of
the bike). The chain and sprockets were gummy with old oil, but not
worn.

Jeff

wrote:
I was wondering if anyone here had any insight on whether it may be
possible/useful/practical/worthwhile to use a motorcycle chain or some
other heavy duty chain on a *blanked-out cassette* single-speed bike to
create a ultra-durable drivetrain. Since narrower chains are generally
less durable, I'm assuming a motorbike chain would go for ages (or your
entire life?), and they seem to be available in hundreds of different
pitches - (1 inch included?)

The mental picture I have would be to sandwich 2/3 identical chainrings
together or to place them either side of the spider leaving an empty
gap inbetween such that the effective width matches the plate
seperation of the larger chain. On the rear, I was thinking several
sandwiched sprockets (the singlespeed pronounced-tooth [not hyperglide]
variety that install on to Shimano freehub bodies) would build up the
required thickness needed. More weight, more friction etc, but
winter-proof?

Shops who indulge the guys who ride twenty inch and grind
(Slide down railing/coping hopefully on the peg but often on
the chain) stock some pretty meaty chain. There are 'phat'
versions of 1/2 x 1/8 and then 1/2 x 3/16. Some are
available in full roller chain, BTW. We are not experts but
even those who dabble like us will have chain out to 13.2mm
( Ten Speed chain is 5.9mm)

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

JeffWills wrote:
wrote:
I guess I won't be trying that then. And thankyou for your wisdom!


- Bernie

Well, shucks...

If you wanted to try some ultra-tuff bike parts, you could use the
drivetrain off of a BMX "freestyle" bike. Some of them use 3/16" thick
sprockets and appropriate chain. That's extreme overkill for your use,
though.

The chain to use is the KMC 415H. Something like 13.7mm chain width... Too
bad no o-rings though.


--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

In article . com,
says...

Hi - (I'm new here),
I was wondering if anyone here had any insight on whether it may be
possible/useful/practical/worthwhile to use a motorcycle chain or some
other heavy duty chain on a *blanked-out cassette* single-speed bike to
create a ultra-durable drivetrain. Since narrower chains are generally
less durable, I'm assuming a motorbike chain would go for ages (or your
entire life?), and they seem to be available in hundreds of different
pitches - (1 inch included?)
The mental picture I have would be to sandwich 2/3 identical chainrings
together or to place them either side of the spider leaving an empty
gap inbetween such that the effective width matches the plate
seperation of the larger chain. On the rear, I was thinking several
sandwiched sprockets (the singlespeed pronounced-tooth [not hyperglide]
variety that install on to Shimano freehub bodies) would build up the
required thickness needed. More weight, more friction etc, but
winter-proof?
Or I am I just being silly... ?

Just silly. If all you are concerned with is chain durability, there is an
easier way to go that will give you long chain life. Since you are going
single speed, it is very easy to just add a chain box to your bike. Liberally
lube your new chain and your chain box will make your chain last a really long
time.
--------------
Alex