Small Jersey

Try Kucharik, they have XS size:

http://www.kucharik.com/

Good luck!

GD


"Joe Riel" a écrit dans le message de
...
Any suggestions on where I can find small jerseys? The one I recently
purchased online, a Gore Contest jersey, is too big, despite it being a
small and described as "slim cut". I'm 5'8" and about 128 pounds, so
quite a bit thinner than the typical North American male. Most jerseys
available online are described as "club fit" or, equivalently, "relaxed
fit", which is going the wrong direction.

The tag on the Gore jersey indicates it is (simultaneously)
"American S", "European S", and "Asian M". I assume
S = small, and M = medium. The implication is that what I really
want is an "Asian S", which isn't offered.

--
Joe Riel

On Sun, 11 May 2014 07:49:44 -0700, Joe Riel wrote:

Frank Krygowski writes:

On 5/10/2014 7:10 PM, Joe Riel wrote:
Any suggestions on where I can find small jerseys? The one I recently
purchased online, a Gore Contest jersey, is too big, despite it being a
small and described as "slim cut". I'm 5'8" and about 128 pounds, so
quite a bit thinner than the typical North American male. Most jerseys
available online are described as "club fit" or, equivalently, "relaxed
fit", which is going the wrong direction.

The tag on the Gore jersey indicates it is (simultaneously)
"American S", "European S", and "Asian M". I assume
S = small, and M = medium. The implication is that what I really
want is an "Asian S", which isn't offered.


I wonder how difficult it would be to buy the jersey that comes
closest to what you like, then take it in at the side seams. That
might work if the shoulder width was anywhere close to what you need.

The difficulty would be getting the wife to do it. But she did purchase
it for me, as a gift, so I might have some pull there. Alternatively I
could finally refurbish the treadle Singer I've had for decades and
learn to use it...

The jersey is also long---I'm not used to having the bottom hang below
my butt. It does make getting stuff out of the rear pocket slightly
easier, but looks stupid.

My wife, who sews, tells me that "the stretchy things are hard to
sew", and refuses to even attempt them :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.
(invalid to gmail)

"G.Dubois" writes:

Try Kucharik, they have XS size:

http://www.kucharik.com/

Turns out they have an XS in the sizing chart, but none available for
sale. Pick any jersey, any style, but XS never appears in the drop down
menu. I'll send them an email.

--
Joe Riel

On Sun, 11 May 2014 07:49:44 -0700, Joe Riel wrote:

Alternatively I
could finally refurbish the treadle Singer I've had for decades and
learn to use it...

Push the front of the treadle with one foot, and the back of the
treadle with the other. My treadle was useless for decades because I
thought that I was supposed to rock my feet in unison, which made
control of the machine very iffy.

When starting the machine after a pause (taking out a pin, for
example), keep the corner of one eye on the handwheel. Push
tentatively with the foot you think is the correct one. If the wheel
moves in the wrong direction, push hard with the other foot. If the
wheel moves in the correct direction, start treadling.

Don't snap the catches. When you close something, hold the same
release that you pushed on to open it until the door is closed or
whatever, then release it gently. A jeweler told me this when
explaining how to take care of Grandmother's gold watch, but a sewing
machine is a precision instrument too, and is also expected to
continue operating for another hundred years.


--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.

On Sun, 11 May 2014 10:05:53 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

I wonder if we can get Joy Beeson to chip in on this?

I'll think on this when I finish my new linen cycling knickers, but I
might not be very helpful because I'd a heap rather make a jersey from
scratch than alter one.

Or I would if I could buy fabric. Perhaps that is what happened to
Flye Clothing and Jones Cyclewear. Well, many years later, I learned
that what happened to Jones Cyclewear was that Grace Jones died. I've
never found a clue as to what happened to Marthe Hess. Ms. Hesse must
have been a witch -- she could custom-fit you by mail order.

Other needleworkers feel differently: I asked around hoping to get
some jeans made, and all the pros I could find did alterations, but
wouldn't touch a job of construction.

--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.

On 5/13/2014 11:25 PM, Joy Beeson wrote:
On Sun, 11 May 2014 07:49:44 -0700, Joe Riel wrote:

Alternatively I
could finally refurbish the treadle Singer I've had for decades and
learn to use it...

Push the front of the treadle with one foot, and the back of the
treadle with the other. My treadle was useless for decades because I
thought that I was supposed to rock my feet in unison, which made
control of the machine very iffy.

When starting the machine after a pause (taking out a pin, for
example), keep the corner of one eye on the handwheel. Push
tentatively with the foot you think is the correct one. If the wheel
moves in the wrong direction, push hard with the other foot. If the
wheel moves in the correct direction, start treadling.

Don't snap the catches. When you close something, hold the same
release that you pushed on to open it until the door is closed or
whatever, then release it gently. A jeweler told me this when
explaining how to take care of Grandmother's gold watch, but a sewing
machine is a precision instrument too, and is also expected to
continue operating for another hundred years.



My machine is well along to its first 100 and will probably
outlast me.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Joy Beeson writes:

On Sun, 11 May 2014 07:49:44 -0700, Joe Riel wrote:

Alternatively I
could finally refurbish the treadle Singer I've had for decades and
learn to use it...

Push the front of the treadle with one foot, and the back of the
treadle with the other. My treadle was useless for decades because I
thought that I was supposed to rock my feet in unison, which made
control of the machine very iffy.

Interesting, thanks. When I have tried it, I used a single foot, mainly
trying for max speed--why doesn't this thing come with a gear lever?.
Kind of fun, but not optimal for control. Will have to try your
suggestion.


When starting the machine after a pause (taking out a pin, for
example), keep the corner of one eye on the handwheel. Push
tentatively with the foot you think is the correct one. If the wheel
moves in the wrong direction, push hard with the other foot. If the
wheel moves in the correct direction, start treadling.

Don't snap the catches. When you close something, hold the same
release that you pushed on to open it until the door is closed or
whatever, then release it gently. A jeweler told me this when
explaining how to take care of Grandmother's gold watch, but a sewing
machine is a precision instrument too, and is also expected to
continue operating for another hundred years.

--
Joe Riel

On Wed, 14 May 2014 07:07:13 -0700, Joe Riel wrote:

When I have tried it, I used a single foot,

I did that this morning, standing on the other foot because I didn't
want to bother bringing the secretary chair in from the other room.

We had corned beef for supper, and I sewed the spices into a muslin
bag. I've seen suggestions that one merely tie them in a bit of rag,
but I like for the spices to spread out and mingle a little. Besides,
knotting requires a lot more rag in the soup than a sewn bag.


--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.

On Sun, 11 May 2014 16:20:45 +0000 (UTC), David Scheidt
wrote:

Fancier jersies tend to have flat locked seams,

The knickers are hanging in the closet, with a linen-shirting
spectacle-cleaning rag in the back pocket. Doesn't look as though
I'll wear them any time soon, but I noticed today (15 May) that I
missed a pair of sweat pants when I washed all my winter clothing and
put it away. I still may need to bring the long-johns back to the
front of the closet. [Wore the sweats and tights on a Tour d'Warsaw
today.(17 May) On my real bike. Appear to have gotten away with it.]

And I find that I don't have a lot to say. [Will comment on
tuck-shortening later.]

I make all my T-shirts with my straight-stitch treadle, and flat fell
all the seams. The standard flat fell is difficult on wiggly fabric,
so I starch all the edges, use a pre-graded flat fell, and baste the
"fold a quarter inch to the right side" instead of just pressing it,
as one can on linen.

On the other hand, the standard flat fell is easier to move straight
from basting to make sure it fits to final stitching -- the basting
can serve as the first line of stitching for a standard flat fell. And
fitting requires that seam allowances be trimmed anyway, which reduces
the value of the pre-graded flat fell.

I do switch to the zig-zag machine for hems, except for the necks of
very dressy T-shirts, which I hem by hand.

I find flat felling at least as durable as flatlocking.

--
Joy Beeson
joy beeson at comcast dot net

Joy Beeson wrote:


:I find flat felling at least as durable as flatlocking.

I'm sure. But a felled seam is lot bulkier than a flat locked one,
which makes a difference for some people, particularly on tight
fitting athletic wear. (I had a pair of swim turnks with plain serged
seams that drove me crazy, an I'm not normally bothered by seams.
Skin tight makes a difference.)

--
What's the rule on that?