Front derailleur Shimano Deore M591, scraping

Hello Folks,

Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
outer cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring
bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF

.... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".

Does it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
millimeters here.

It's a 29" montain bike, Fuji Outland 1.5, 2013 model but bought new
about three months ago.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 6/7/2014 9:45 AM, Joerg wrote:
Hello Folks,

Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
outer cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring
bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF

... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".

Does it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
millimeters here.

It's a 29" montain bike, Fuji Outland 1.5, 2013 model but bought new
about three months ago.


Yes, the cage shape is designed to shift best when the
changer is set (vertical height) just above the outer
chainring teeth at the closest point.

Inspect more closely to preclude a problem with a loose
bearing, loose crank arm, loose chainring bolts or a bent
chainring. If that's all well, adjust changer limit
(laterally) to clear the outer ring and chain in high gear.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Joerg wrote:
Hello Folks,

Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
outer cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring
bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF

... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".

Does it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
millimeters here.

It's a 29" montain bike, Fuji Outland 1.5, 2013 model but bought new
about three months ago.


Hi Joerg. I've got no answer to your question, but welcome to r.b.t.

Ralph Barone wrote:
Joerg wrote:
Hello Folks,

Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
outer cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring
bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF

... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".

Does it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
millimeters here.

It's a 29" montain bike, Fuji Outland 1.5, 2013 model but bought new
about three months ago.


Hi Joerg. I've got no answer to your question, but welcome to r.b.t.


Thanks, Ralph. I got the hint from a German NG, d.r.fahrrad. Can't wait
to hit the El Dorado Trail this weekend (the more gnarly section).

http://forums.mtbr.com/california-no...te-611552.html

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Saturday, June 7, 2014 7:45:58 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:

Hello Folks,

Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
outer cogs in the back a lot.

That's me, too. On my triple-9-speed I essentially *live*
in the 12-13-14 cogs and the big (48) ring.

When I "step on it" the large chain ring
bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur.

Yes, it does - I am well familiar with this phenomenon.

But the derailer is *designed* to rub against the chain, so
it doesn't especially bother me. I sort of consider it a
torque indicator.

The manual ...

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF

... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".


Wow! Read the documentation - what a concept! :-)

Does it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
millimeters here.


I'd say keep the spec in mind as a guideline, but do whatever
works best for you.

It's a 29" montain bike, Fuji Outland 1.5, 2013 model but bought new
about three months ago.


Sweet!

Dan O wrote:
On Saturday, June 7, 2014 7:45:58 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:

Hello Folks,

Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
outer cogs in the back a lot.

That's me, too. On my triple-9-speed I essentially *live*
in the 12-13-14 cogs and the big (48) ring.


I was told it's unhealthy to ride with such low cadence. But then again
much in life is unhealthy, like the beer after the ride :-)


When I "step on it" the large chain ring
bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur.

Yes, it does - I am well familiar with this phenomenon.

But the derailer is *designed* to rub against the chain, so
it doesn't especially bother me. I sort of consider it a
torque indicator.


Thanks, I didn't know that such repetitive rubbing is ok. On my old
(cheap) road bikes that I had as a student I've scraped through a couple
of derailers. But I guess the higher end ones these days are more sturdy
then.


The manual ...

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF

... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".


Wow! Read the documentation - what a concept! :-)

Does it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
millimeters here.


I'd say keep the spec in mind as a guideline, but do whatever
works best for you.


A friend said this morning that he adjusts his front derailer until it
almost hits the right crank.


It's a 29" montain bike, Fuji Outland 1.5, 2013 model but bought new
about three months ago.


Sweet!


I've once banged up the main pivot joint, came loose, but the bike
dealer tightened it up for free. Other than that this MTB has been very
good to me. The frames seem to run large, I am about 6'1", picked the
mid-size frame and still had to take the stem down from 110mm to 80mm.
Gave more responsive steering as well which I like.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Joerg wrote:
:Hello Folks,

:Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
:tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
uter cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring
:bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
:brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...

:http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF

:... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
:the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".

oes it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
:millimeters here.

Well, I'd want a clearance of more than zero, but not touching is
enough. Remember, the deraileur shifts gears down from the top by
pushing on the chain, so contact with the plate isn't the end of the
world. You might wear out the front a few thousand miles early. Big
deal. or you might not.


--
sig 39

how is this known chain ring bends ? you watch this ?

the cage has a scrape mark ? take 2 pliers to the scrape, one to steady the cage, one pressing a wide spot into the band.

nice trail suggestion.

check on BIKEPACKER for Sierra and So Cal ride reports.

try reading he

https://www.google.com/#q=fix+flexing++chain+rings

wrote:
how is this known chain ring bends ? you watch this ?


Yes, I watched it. When accelerating I heard the telltale shhrrrp ...
shhrrrp ... looked down and saw the large chain ring wiggle outward a
little when the right pedal was under max load or at its 2 o'clock
position. When I took away some power it stopped doing that and rotated
without any wobble. It only happens under a lot of power.


the cage has a scrape mark ? take 2 pliers to the scrape, one to
steady the cage, one pressing a wide spot into the band.


It has slight scrape marks now. But I won't bend it yet, first I'll try
to adjust it so that it sits 2-3mm out instead of only 0.5mm.


nice trail suggestion.

check on BIKEPACKER for Sierra and So Cal ride reports.


Darrington is one of my favorite trails:

http://www.mtbproject.com/trail/1802460


try reading he

https://www.google.com/#q=fix+flexing++chain+rings



--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

David Scheidt wrote:
Joerg wrote:
:Hello Folks,

:Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
:tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
uter cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring
:bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
:brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...

:http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF

:... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
:the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".

oes it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
:millimeters here.

Well, I'd want a clearance of more than zero, but not touching is
enough. Remember, the deraileur shifts gears down from the top by
pushing on the chain, so contact with the plate isn't the end of the
world. You might wear out the front a few thousand miles early. Big
deal. or you might not.


I'll adjust it next week (had a big honey-do project today and want to
go riding now). I guess it's not too bad since Dan and you said it can
take some scraping so one more ride won't hurt it.

It's just puzzling that a new bike does this.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/