drill holes in reflexes, make clamps (photo)

I have thought for a long time about being able
to make your own clamps, stays, and so on.
That would be so sweet, as work then wouldn't
have to come off on seemingly simple details
that are nevertheless vital...

Some should not be difficult at all to do if
one possess the right material and tools.
The piece that attach the lower part of the
chain guard to the frame, for example (the top
piece in the photo) - it shouldn't be too
difficult to do!

Incidentally, I used such I piece today doing
a clamp to put the front reflex to the holder.
First I drilled a 5 mm hole thru the reflex,
then put an M5 bolt thru the reflex into
a nylon nut on the other side.

What do you think? I think it is possible to do
and Joe Bike Rider won't ever tell the
difference...

Photo: http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/reflex-clamp.jpg

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 55 Blogomatic articles -

On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 00:11:24 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

I have thought for a long time about being able
to make your own clamps, stays, and so on.
That would be so sweet, as work then wouldn't
have to come off on seemingly simple details
that are nevertheless vital...

Some should not be difficult at all to do if
one possess the right material and tools.
The piece that attach the lower part of the
chain guard to the frame, for example (the top
piece in the photo) - it shouldn't be too
difficult to do!

Incidentally, I used such I piece today doing
a clamp to put the front reflex to the holder.
First I drilled a 5 mm hole thru the reflex,
then put an M5 bolt thru the reflex into
a nylon nut on the other side.

What do you think? I think it is possible to do
and Joe Bike Rider won't ever tell the
difference...

Photo: http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/reflex-clamp.jpg

With practice you can make almost anything that you want to. The
problem is in your skill level.

I once had a German machinist working for me that had a little "jewel
box" in the top tray of his tool box. One day I asked him what it was
and he showed me. It was a cube of metal about 25mm on a side. He told
me that it was one of the things he had to make to complete his
apprenticeship in Germany. He said that it was accurate to 0.002mm in
all directions. He made it using only hand tools.
--
cheers,

John B.

John B. writes:

Incidentally, I used such I piece today
doing a clamp to put the front reflex to the
holder. First I drilled a 5 mm hole thru the
reflex, then put an M5 bolt thru the reflex
into a nylon nut on the other side ...

Photo:
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/reflex-clamp.jpg

With practice you can make almost anything
that you want to. The problem is in your
skill level.

So I suppose you'd start with some metal sheet
which is easy to cut and bend but still has
some stiffness to to it.

I have learned you can put a pipe into a vise
and then hammer the piece around it to get an
even, round shape. Folding can also be done in
a vise but the corners often do not come out
that sharp...

Drilling an tapping, of course. I have learned
you can drill thru a round, soft object (e.g.
fenders) by putting it around around a tree
object first, e.g. mallet, fasten with cord,
and then put the mallet into the vise!

I once had a German machinist working for me
that had a little "jewel box" in the top tray
of his tool box. One day I asked him what it
was and he showed me. It was a cube of metal
about 25mm on a side. He told me that it was
one of the things he had to make to complete
his apprenticeship in Germany. He said that
it was accurate to 0.002mm in all directions.
He made it using only hand tools.

I know how to do that! You use a hacksaw,
a metal file, a micrometer, and then a
try square which you hold to the sun, and if it
is correct, you won't see any light pass by!

That should be pretty easy, right?



--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 55 Blogomatic articles -

On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 01:53:10 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. writes:

Incidentally, I used such I piece today
doing a clamp to put the front reflex to the
holder. First I drilled a 5 mm hole thru the
reflex, then put an M5 bolt thru the reflex
into a nylon nut on the other side ...

Photo:
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/reflex-clamp.jpg

With practice you can make almost anything
that you want to. The problem is in your
skill level.

So I suppose you'd start with some metal sheet
which is easy to cut and bend but still has
some stiffness to to it.

I have learned you can put a pipe into a vise
and then hammer the piece around it to get an
even, round shape. Folding can also be done in
a vise but the corners often do not come out
that sharp...

Drilling an tapping, of course. I have learned
you can drill thru a round, soft object (e.g.
fenders) by putting it around around a tree
object first, e.g. mallet, fasten with cord,
and then put the mallet into the vise!

I once had a German machinist working for me
that had a little "jewel box" in the top tray
of his tool box. One day I asked him what it
was and he showed me. It was a cube of metal
about 25mm on a side. He told me that it was
one of the things he had to make to complete
his apprenticeship in Germany. He said that
it was accurate to 0.002mm in all directions.
He made it using only hand tools.

I know how to do that! You use a hacksaw,
a metal file, a micrometer, and then a
try square which you hold to the sun, and if it
is correct, you won't see any light pass by!

That should be pretty easy, right?

Try it. Then come back and tell me how easy it is :-)

Remember that since it is a cube all sides must be perfectly flat and
at 90 degrees to any adjacent flat and that the dimensions between all
sides must be the same, within 0.002mm.
--
cheers,

John B.

On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 01:53:10 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. writes:

Incidentally, I used such I piece today
doing a clamp to put the front reflex to the
holder. First I drilled a 5 mm hole thru the
reflex, then put an M5 bolt thru the reflex
into a nylon nut on the other side ...

Photo:
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/reflex-clamp.jpg

With practice you can make almost anything
that you want to. The problem is in your
skill level.

So I suppose you'd start with some metal sheet
which is easy to cut and bend but still has
some stiffness to to it.

Actually it is best to start with material that you know will do the
job and then figure out how to cut it :-)

--
cheers,

John B.

John B. writes:

Remember that since it is a cube all sides
must be perfectly flat and at 90 degrees to
any adjacent flat and that the dimensions
between all sides must be the same, within
0.002mm.

Yeah, but are there really "hand tools"
that accurate?

Or are you not supposed to measure the thing
until final examination?

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 55 Blogomatic articles -

On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 06:08:11 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. writes:

Remember that since it is a cube all sides
must be perfectly flat and at 90 degrees to
any adjacent flat and that the dimensions
between all sides must be the same, within
0.002mm.

Yeah, but are there really "hand tools"
that accurate?

Or are you not supposed to measure the thing
until final examination?

This series of stories might help:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-old-german-toolmakers-160631/
I don't recall the required accuracy or exact procedure. Two of my
uncles were machinists in Poland before WWII and had to pass a similar
test. I vaguely recall that the original size of the block of metal
was about 200 mm and that it took a week or more to complete. When I
was about 17 years old, I arrogantly tried to duplicate the feat,
thinking it was easy. I gave up after about 3 days of frustration.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann writes:

I don't recall the required accuracy or exact
procedure. Two of my uncles were machinists
in Poland before WWII and had to pass
a similar test. I vaguely recall that the
original size of the block of metal was about
200 mm and that it took a week or more to
complete. When I was about 17 years old,
I arrogantly tried to duplicate the feat,
thinking it was easy. I gave up after about 3
days of frustration.

If the Germans used it as a test of skill, it
sure as hell (Hel) cannot be easy. But I'm
curious about the rules. What does "hand tools"
mean? Is it tools you hold in your hand(s) or
is it tools not fueled by an engine or power?
Are you allowed to build your own tools
and stands?

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 55 Blogomatic articles -

On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 07:08:46 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann writes:

I don't recall the required accuracy or exact
procedure. Two of my uncles were machinists
in Poland before WWII and had to pass
a similar test. I vaguely recall that the
original size of the block of metal was about
200 mm and that it took a week or more to
complete. When I was about 17 years old,
I arrogantly tried to duplicate the feat,
thinking it was easy. I gave up after about 3
days of frustration.

If the Germans used it as a test of skill, it
sure as hell (Hel) cannot be easy. But I'm
curious about the rules. What does "hand tools"
mean? Is it tools you hold in your hand(s) or
is it tools not fueled by an engine or power?
Are you allowed to build your own tools
and stands?

Some of the stories under:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-old-german-toolmakers-160631/
(3 pages) explain the details and requirements. As might be expected,
they vary. As I vaguely recall from 40 years ago, hand tools meant
anything without a motor, belt, or drive, that could be wielded in one
or both hands. No power tools. One of the stories in the above URL
mentions, "There were a few files, a hammer, cape chisel, combination
square & vernier caliper". A granite surface plate and dial indicator
would have been nice, but I suspect they weren't available or allowed.
However, even those would not be of any use until after the first
surface of the cube is done and perfectly flat.

This article offers some more detail:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-old-german-toolmakers-160631/index2.html#post920091

I don't know if one was allowed to build their own tools. Since the
test was for beginning machinists, I would not expect them to have
amassed much of a tool and instrument collection at that point.

I recall my father mumbling something about using the stiction from a
gauge block to check for flatness, but I'm not sure. I suspect a
honing stone and abrasive were required to obtain this level of
flatness.

Also, I was wrong on the "week or more to complete". Apparently, it
took much longer to make the cube perfect. The above article mentions
3 months.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 06:08:11 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. writes:

Remember that since it is a cube all sides
must be perfectly flat and at 90 degrees to
any adjacent flat and that the dimensions
between all sides must be the same, within
0.002mm.

Yeah, but are there really "hand tools"
that accurate?

Or are you not supposed to measure the thing
until final examination?

I don't believe there is any rules about how or when to measure. But
you will be judged on what you do :-)

As for accurate. Well, when I was at the Air Force test center at
Edwards AFB, I saw flat flanges used on the X1 or maybe 2, that were
hand finished to a tolerance that with no gasket - a metal to metal
flat flange joint - were used in a 3,000 PSI system flowing "red
fuming nitric acid" used as an oxidizer for the rocket engine.
--
cheers,

John B.