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609 bike questions [photo]



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 4th 17, 01:24 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default 609 bike questions [photo]

Here is the 609 Crescent open-frame I talked
about earlier.

I had to replace the old Czech single-speed
Favorite-hub rear wheel and do some other
things as well. But now it is up and running
with two nice 609 or 27" x 1 1/2 tires mounted!

I've heard of a trick to determine if a bike is
a 26" or a 28" by just looking at a photo of
it. Anyone know the way? And does it work for
27" bikes as well?

Except for the 609 wheel size, the bike has an
exciting handlebar with the handles all but
parallel to the direction of the bike.
Anyone knows what that type of handlebar
is called or any other "facts for fans"?

Also, take a look at the fork. This I see all
the time. But modern bikes seem to be forged in
one piece. What's the story on that?

Photos:

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/609/side.jpg

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/...r-and-fork.jpg

PS. With the first photo, I didn't use the
flash; on the second, I did. What photo
looks better to you in this respect?

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
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  #2  
Old July 4th 17, 02:04 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default 609 bike questions [photo]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 8:25:00 AM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Here is the 609 Crescent open-frame I talked
about earlier.

I had to replace the old Czech single-speed
Favorite-hub rear wheel and do some other
things as well. But now it is up and running
with two nice 609 or 27" x 1 1/2 tires mounted!

I've heard of a trick to determine if a bike is
a 26" or a 28" by just looking at a photo of
it. Anyone know the way? And does it work for
27" bikes as well?

Except for the 609 wheel size, the bike has an
exciting handlebar with the handles all but
parallel to the direction of the bike.
Anyone knows what that type of handlebar
is called or any other "facts for fans"?

Also, take a look at the fork. This I see all
the time. But modern bikes seem to be forged in
one piece. What's the story on that?

Photos:

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/609/side.jpg

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/...r-and-fork.jpg

PS. With the first photo, I didn't use the
flash; on the second, I did. What photo
looks better to you in this respect?

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573


That stem looks to be pretty tall. Check and make surethat the minimum insertion mark is BELOW the top nut of the headset. Otherwise the stem could break.

I'd also get rid of the headlight mounting bracket thats under the stem bolt. If you must have a headlight mount like that then move it to where the front reflector bracket is now. You don't want anything on the stem that could cause that long binder bolt to come loose and cause the stem and bars to rotate thereby loosing control of your steering.

Cheers
  #3  
Old July 4th 17, 03:00 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default 609 bike questions [photo]

Sir Ridesalot wrote:

That stem looks to be pretty tall. Check and
make surethat the minimum insertion mark is
BELOW the top nut of the headset.
Otherwise the stem could break.


It absolutely does however there is no mark
above the top nut. There is a script higher up,
saying stainless steel, so I don't think it
(the mark) is wrenched away either.

Or could it be? I mean, are stems that tall
very uncommon to the point it is likely it is
pulled up way too high?

I'd also get rid of the headlight mounting
bracket thats under the stem bolt. If you
must have a headlight mount like that then
move it to where the front reflector bracket
is now.


The front reflector bracket will get a front
reflector. The headlight mount will probably be
unused as it'll get fisheyes back and front.

You don't want anything on the stem that
could cause that long binder bolt to come
loose and cause the stem and bars to rotate
thereby loosing control of your steering.


I suppose I agree but I think it is the
original components and probably they have been
that way for decades. Nothing I want to muck
around with.

The wedge on these bikes are often insanely
stuck with rust by now and the guy who gets the
bike will not thank me for the extra efforts.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #4  
Old July 4th 17, 04:10 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default 609 bike questions [photo]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 10:00:58 AM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote:

That stem looks to be pretty tall. Check and
make surethat the minimum insertion mark is
BELOW the top nut of the headset.
Otherwise the stem could break.


It absolutely does however there is no mark
above the top nut. There is a script higher up,
saying stainless steel, so I don't think it
(the mark) is wrenched away either.

Or could it be? I mean, are stems that tall
very uncommon to the point it is likely it is
pulled up way too high?

I'd also get rid of the headlight mounting
bracket thats under the stem bolt. If you
must have a headlight mount like that then
move it to where the front reflector bracket
is now.


The front reflector bracket will get a front
reflector. The headlight mount will probably be
unused as it'll get fisheyes back and front.

You don't want anything on the stem that
could cause that long binder bolt to come
loose and cause the stem and bars to rotate
thereby loosing control of your steering.


I suppose I agree but I think it is the
original components and probably they have been
that way for decades. Nothing I want to muck
around with.

The wedge on these bikes are often insanely
stuck with rust by now and the guy who gets the
bike will not thank me for the extra efforts.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573


CHECK that stem and make sure there's at lest 2 inches (5cms)of it BELOW the top locknut - more if there's any space between the top lock nut and the fork steerer tube. The guy will NOT like it if he hits a bump/pothole and the stem breaks off or comes off the bike.

There was a guy here in town who fixed bikes and then sold them cheap. He wanted me to help him. I was working on one bike one day and noticed the bike he was working on had the stem quite high. I checked the amount that was inside the fork and it was less than half an inch (1.2cm). I lowered the stem, the guy got mad nd raised it again and I left never to return.

Cheers
  #5  
Old July 5th 17, 01:37 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,697
Default 609 bike questions [photo]

On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 14:24:55 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Here is the 609 Crescent open-frame I talked
about earlier.

I had to replace the old Czech single-speed
Favorite-hub rear wheel and do some other
things as well. But now it is up and running
with two nice 609 or 27" x 1 1/2 tires mounted!

I've heard of a trick to determine if a bike is
a 26" or a 28" by just looking at a photo of
it. Anyone know the way? And does it work for
27" bikes as well?

Except for the 609 wheel size, the bike has an
exciting handlebar with the handles all but
parallel to the direction of the bike.
Anyone knows what that type of handlebar
is called or any other "facts for fans"?

they look like normal bicycle handle bars. I see similar handlebars on
bikes being used for shopping here every day. With breaks and shifter
http://tinyurl.com/y9v59qvg


Also, take a look at the fork. This I see all
the time. But modern bikes seem to be forged in
one piece. What's the story on that?


The fork looks normal. Made up of 4 parts brazed together. A more
"modern" way might be to use fork blades with a bend on their top to
replace the fork crown and weld them directly to the steerer tube. A
cheaper method of making a fork. See http://tinyurl.com/ydyj3ckr


Photos:

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/609/side.jpg

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/...r-and-fork.jpg

PS. With the first photo, I didn't use the
flash; on the second, I did. What photo
looks better to you in this respect?


A bit of glare on the handle bar of the second photo.
--
Cheers,

John B.

  #6  
Old July 5th 17, 02:18 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 7,511
Default 609 bike questions [photo]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 10:00:58 AM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote:

I'd also get rid of the headlight mounting
bracket thats under the stem bolt. If you
must have a headlight mount like that then
move it to where the front reflector bracket
is now.


The front reflector bracket will get a front
reflector. The headlight mount will probably be
unused as it'll get fisheyes back and front.


What are "fisheyes"?

A bike ridden at night absolutely needs a proper headlight. If it's never
going to be used at night, then eyes of fish might be as good as anything else,
I suppose.

- Frank Krygowski
  #7  
Old July 5th 17, 02:46 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default 609 bike questions [photo]

John B. wrote:

they look like normal ...
The fork looks normal.


Yes, of course. It is a very normal bike

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #8  
Old July 7th 17, 12:50 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default 609 bike questions [photo]

Frank Krygowski wrote:

What are "fisheyes"?


http://images.biltema.com/PAXToImage...rge/2000039968

I think they are called that because the huge
bulky lamps that were dynamo powered were
called "cat eyes".

A bike ridden at night absolutely needs
a proper headlight.


Indeed. I don't know how many lumen the
fisheyes are tho. They are not enough when it
is dark and you can't see, like in the forest,
but in a city they are fine because you see
anyway and they are more so that others will
see you.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #9  
Old July 8th 17, 06:36 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default 609 bike questions [photo]

Sir Ridesalot wrote:

CHECK that stem and make sure there's at lest
2 inches (5cms)of it BELOW the top locknut -
more if there's any space between the top
lock nut and the fork steerer tube. The guy
will NOT like it if he hits a bump/pothole
and the stem breaks off or comes off
the bike.


My intuition was always that it was OK, but of
course I would hate if someone got hurt from
riding my bikes, not to mention (or I will
mention it) [s]he would hate it even more, so
I took the bike to a professional which
operates a bike shop in the city.

No doubt, the world of professional
practitioners is only as good as its worst
mechanic, but I trust this guy completely, he
is from Persia/Iran with all its talented
mechanics, and has tons of experience, anyway
without even looking closely he said it
was fine.

I tried to provoke him to elaborate on that,
but then he just grabbed the handlebar and
torqued back and forth and repeated not
to worry.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #10  
Old July 9th 17, 02:42 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default 609 bike questions [photo]

On Saturday, July 8, 2017 at 1:36:42 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote:

CHECK that stem and make sure there's at lest
2 inches (5cms)of it BELOW the top locknut -
more if there's any space between the top
lock nut and the fork steerer tube. The guy
will NOT like it if he hits a bump/pothole
and the stem breaks off or comes off
the bike.


My intuition was always that it was OK, but of
course I would hate if someone got hurt from
riding my bikes, not to mention (or I will
mention it) [s]he would hate it even more, so
I took the bike to a professional which
operates a bike shop in the city.

No doubt, the world of professional
practitioners is only as good as its worst
mechanic, but I trust this guy completely, he
is from Persia/Iran with all its talented
mechanics, and has tons of experience, anyway
without even looking closely he said it
was fine.

I tried to provoke him to elaborate on that,
but then he just grabbed the handlebar and
torqued back and forth and repeated not
to worry.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573


NO GOOD! You need to make a mark with something where the stem is now. I use a marker or even a pencil. then you loosen the stem bolt and remove the stem and see how much is below the mark. If it's less than 5cm or 2 inches (at the start of thewedge) then the stem needs to go in further. Failure to have enough stem inside the steerer tube is risky as it can lead to the stem snpping off. It just takes a minute or so to check it so why not do it to be POSITIVEthe stem is in a SAFE distance?

Cheers
 




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