Shimano MF-Z015 Freewheel Ball Bearings

My only problem is I don't have the right tool to get the old one off,
so I feel another walk down to those shops again, and see if one of
them can at least do the swap over for me. I somehow feel that I am
going to be dissappointed though.


Get a pointy thing like a bradawl or a big nail and insert the point
into one of the holes in the lock ring around the central hole. hit
the tool with a hammer repeatedly to rotate the circle thus unscrewing
it. when you get it off the freewheel should be dissembleable leaving
some bits still screwed on the hub. finally stick the remnants into a
vice and rotate the wheel to screw them off.Or if no vice use a big
mole wrench.
I used to reckon 50% of my screw ons got so tight this had to be done
to change them.
TerryJ

"TerryJ" wrote in message
...

My only problem is I don't have the right tool to get the old one off,
so I feel another walk down to those shops again, and see if one of
them can at least do the swap over for me. I somehow feel that I am
going to be dissappointed though.


Get a pointy thing like a bradawl or a big nail and insert the point
into one of the holes in the lock ring around the central hole. hit
the tool with a hammer repeatedly to rotate the circle thus unscrewing
it. when you get it off the freewheel should be dissembleable leaving
some bits still screwed on the hub. finally stick the remnants into a
vice and rotate the wheel to screw them off.Or if no vice use a big
mole wrench.
I used to reckon 50% of my screw ons got so tight this had to be done
to change them.

Tandem?

When I had a freewheel on the tandem, getting it off wasn't easy - but with
a well secured vice, I always won without resort to breaking things. OTOH
this was with newer splined freewheels, rather than the 2 or 4 pronged
ones - the tool and interface is rather stronger with the splines.

Clive George wrote:
"TerryJ" wrote in message
...

Get a pointy thing like a bradawl or a big nail and insert the point
into one of the holes in the lock ring around the central hole. hit
the tool with a hammer repeatedly to rotate the circle thus
unscrewing it. when you get it off the freewheel should be
dissembleable leaving some bits still screwed on the hub. finally
stick the remnants into a vice and rotate the wheel to screw them
off.Or if no vice use a big mole wrench.
I used to reckon 50% of my screw ons got so tight this had to be done
to change them.

Tandem?

When I had a freewheel on the tandem, getting it off wasn't easy -
but with a well secured vice, I always won without resort to breaking
things. OTOH this was with newer splined freewheels, rather than the
2 or 4 pronged ones - the tool and interface is rather stronger with
the splines.


I usually hold the 2/4-prong tools in place using the QR skewer (and same
for splined type). Tighten the skewer so there is perhaps 0.25mm slack (just
feel it moving up/down). That ensures the tool is engaged as tightly as
possible on the freewheel.

Then put the freewheel removal tool in a big spanner, and hold spanner in
strong vice (usually with wheel horizontal). Unscrew wheel from freewheel.
As soon as freewheel moves relative to the wheel, slacken the QR skewer and
remove the freewheel.


However, I'm not a heavy rider, so probably cannot tighten a freewheel as
much as some others.


- Nigel



--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 04:52:01 -0700 (PDT)
TerryJ wrote:


My only problem is I don't have the right tool to get the old one
off, so I feel another walk down to those shops again, and see if
one of them can at least do the swap over for me. I somehow feel
that I am going to be dissappointed though.


Get a pointy thing like a bradawl or a big nail and insert the point
into one of the holes in the lock ring around the central hole. hit
the tool with a hammer repeatedly to rotate the circle thus unscrewing
it. when you get it off the freewheel should be dissembleable leaving
some bits still screwed on the hub. finally stick the remnants into a
vice and rotate the wheel to screw them off.Or if no vice use a big
mole wrench.
I used to reckon 50% of my screw ons got so tight this had to be done
to change them.

Had you bothered to read the thread you'd have realised that the OP's
freewheel is already in this state.

On 13 July, 13:52, Rob Morley wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 04:52:01 -0700 (PDT)



TerryJ wrote:

My only problem is I don't have the right tool to get the old one
off, so I feel another walk down to those shops again, and see if
one of them can at least do the swap over for me. I somehow feel
that I am going to be dissappointed though.

Get a pointy thing like a bradawl *or a big nail and insert the point
into one of the holes in the lock ring around the central hole. hit
the tool with a hammer repeatedly to rotate the circle thus unscrewing
it. when you get it off the freewheel should be dissembleable leaving
some bits still screwed on the hub. finally stick the remnants into a
vice and rotate the wheel to screw them off.Or if no vice use a big
mole wrench.
I used to reckon 50% of my screw ons got so tight this had to be done
to change them.

Had you bothered to read the thread you'd have realised that the OP's
freewheel is already in this state.

Yes indeed, it is all sorted now. Thanks to all for the help and
comments.

On Tuesday, 7 July 2009 01:37:22 UTC+1, Rob Morley wrote:
On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 16:38:26 -0700 (PDT)
srmoll wrote:

Seems a shame to have to do all that, OK it maybe not that expensive,
but even at £15 or whatever they go for on eBay, it not as cheap as a
£4 bag of steel ball bearings. I'll take a look at those though, but
the freewheel seems perfectly serviceable to me.

Are all the clicky springy bits still there?

need to put it back together, I just need the ball bearings, which I
can also easily get. I simply need to know the size.

Why do you say they are not a serviceable part. This one comes apart
and goes together easily enough, it just missing some very simple
parts!?

If Shimano don't list spare parts for it then it's not intended to be
taken apart. Even back when people were using good quality freewheels
they weren't usually considered serviceable - you'd clean them and oil
them, but that was about it. A few rare examples like the Suntours
that I used had adjustable cones, and I used to strip mine to clean and
lubricate them occasionally, but most weren't readily adjustable. Of
course bearing wear isn't a huge problem in a freewheel - when it's
driving the pawls take most of the load and the bearings aren't
turning. The bits that are vital to correct operation are the pawls
and the teeth they engage in - the pawls are very hard, and when the
teeth are worn the freewheel body is scrap, but if you've maintained it
properly (i.e. run a bit of oil through it occasionally) the sprockets
will wear out first. I guess that's why freewheels were never designed
to be particularly serviceable.

Shimano must of listed the spare parts for it at some point as I found the parts list for it he
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...V2Bp2ZWI7v0zZA

On Wednesday, 26 July 2017 00:15:38 UTC+1, wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 July 2009 01:37:22 UTC+1, Rob Morley wrote:
On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 16:38:26 -0700 (PDT)
srmoll wrote:

Seems a shame to have to do all that, OK it maybe not that expensive,
but even at £15 or whatever they go for on eBay, it not as cheap as a
£4 bag of steel ball bearings. I'll take a look at those though, but
the freewheel seems perfectly serviceable to me.

Are all the clicky springy bits still there?

need to put it back together, I just need the ball bearings, which I
can also easily get. I simply need to know the size.

Why do you say they are not a serviceable part. This one comes apart
and goes together easily enough, it just missing some very simple
parts!?

If Shimano don't list spare parts for it then it's not intended to be
taken apart. Even back when people were using good quality freewheels
they weren't usually considered serviceable - you'd clean them and oil
them, but that was about it. A few rare examples like the Suntours
that I used had adjustable cones, and I used to strip mine to clean and
lubricate them occasionally, but most weren't readily adjustable. Of
course bearing wear isn't a huge problem in a freewheel - when it's
driving the pawls take most of the load and the bearings aren't
turning. The bits that are vital to correct operation are the pawls
and the teeth they engage in - the pawls are very hard, and when the
teeth are worn the freewheel body is scrap, but if you've maintained it
properly (i.e. run a bit of oil through it occasionally) the sprockets
will wear out first. I guess that's why freewheels were never designed
to be particularly serviceable.

Shimano must of listed the spare parts for it at some point as I found the parts list for it he
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...V2Bp2ZWI7v0zZA


For anyone this might help there is 70 Ball bearings altogether and they are 1/8".