How does I fix these cranks?

On Sep 25, 6:52*am, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 24 Sep 2012 22:15:13 -0500, Doug Cimperman









wrote:
On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote:
Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The
non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing
play (it could probably use new bearings anyway).

I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools
would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it
exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \

The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the
drive side, to the non-drive side....

http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...ies/recumbent/...

Looks similar to this?

http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb

A quick google search yields..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc

I have an arbor press and torque wrenches.

Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not
finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost
huge sums of money.

This is the only drop-in I have found so far-
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._-1___202430#R....

(FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset)

The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm.

Whoa! *I thought you wanted to fix what you have? *Before trying to find
replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've
got. *It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new.

I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings.
The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the spindle. The right
crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's glued on, and
not ever supposed to come loose.

Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to re-glue them, but
I don't even care to try.

Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and mine was
another one of them.

If this would fit in-
http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...ridge-bottom-b...
then there's a few cheaper crank choices available.

Sorry, I previously posted a suggestion to change the bearings. It is
likely that you have the usual "English" thread in the BB but to be
sure take a bearing housing with you when you go shopping. The older
style, one piece, BB's are made in various axle lengths, which have an
effect on the chain line. It also varies on whether you use a one, two
or three chain ring crank. To install the one piece BB takes a special
wrench and there seem to be several different tools available - few,
if any, are interchangeable.

Once you get the BB installed there are at least two different tapers
used so the new cranks will need to match the BB. You can put them on
with common hand tools but you a "crank puller" to get them off.

To be blunt, if you don't have the tools and you don't have the
experience this is likely a job that you would be better off to have
done for you. I would assume that if you bought the new BB and crank
set from a shop that installation would be minimal, or free.

--
Cheers,
John B.

John,
You need to move into this century before giving advice.
Taper? Not in this scenario. One piece BB?. Also not here.
Read the OP's posts and look at the photo he posted.
Then look here.
http://mountain-bike.wonderhowto.com...-crank-372127/
Nothing you described is remotely relevant.
DR

On Sep 25, 8:59*am, DirtRoadie wrote:
On Sep 25, 6:52*am, John B. wrote:









On Mon, 24 Sep 2012 22:15:13 -0500, Doug Cimperman

wrote:
On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote:
Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The
non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing
play (it could probably use new bearings anyway).

I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools
would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it
exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \

The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the
drive side, to the non-drive side....

http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...ies/recumbent/...

Looks similar to this?

http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb

A quick google search yields..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc

I have an arbor press and torque wrenches.

Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not
finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost
huge sums of money.

This is the only drop-in I have found so far-
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._-1___202430#R...

(FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset)

The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm.

Whoa! *I thought you wanted to fix what you have? *Before trying to find
replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've
got. *It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new.

I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings.
The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the spindle. The right
crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's glued on, and
not ever supposed to come loose.

Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to re-glue them, but
I don't even care to try.

Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and mine was
another one of them.

If this would fit in-
http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...ridge-bottom-b....
then there's a few cheaper crank choices available.

Sorry, I previously posted a suggestion to change the bearings. It is
likely that you have the usual "English" thread in the BB but to be
sure take a bearing housing with you when you go shopping. The older
style, one piece, BB's are made in various axle lengths, which have an
effect on the chain line. It also varies on whether you use a one, two
or three chain ring crank. To install the one piece BB takes a special
wrench and there seem to be several different tools available - few,
if any, are interchangeable.

Once you get the BB installed there are at least two different tapers
used so the new cranks will need to match the BB. You can put them on
with common hand tools but you a "crank puller" to get them off.

To be blunt, if you don't have the tools and you don't have the
experience this is likely a job that you would be better off to have
done for you. I would assume that if you bought the new BB and crank
set from a shop that installation would be minimal, or free.

--
Cheers,
John B.

John,
You need to move into this century before giving advice.
Taper? Not in this scenario. One piece BB?. Also not here.
Read the OP's posts and look at the photo he posted.
Then look here.http://mountain-bike.wonderhowto.com...vativ-gxp-exte...
Nothing you described is remotely relevant.
DR

I withdraw my previous comment. The OP is indeed now speaking of a
complete replacement with a square taper crank.
DR

On 9/25/2012 10:12 AM, DirtRoadie wrote:
On Sep 25, 8:59 am, DirtRoadie wrote:
On Sep 25, 6:52 am, John B. wrote:









On Mon, 24 Sep 2012 22:15:13 -0500, Doug Cimperman

wrote:
On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote:
Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The
non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing
play (it could probably use new bearings anyway).

I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools
would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it
exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \

The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the
drive side, to the non-drive side....

http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...ies/recumbent/...

Looks similar to this?

http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb

A quick google search yields..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc

I have an arbor press and torque wrenches.

Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not
finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost
huge sums of money.

This is the only drop-in I have found so far-
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._-1___202430#R...

(FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset)

The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm.

Whoa! I thought you wanted to fix what you have? Before trying to find
replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've
got. It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new.

I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings.
The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the spindle. The right
crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's glued on, and
not ever supposed to come loose.

Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to re-glue them, but
I don't even care to try.

Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and mine was
another one of them.

If this would fit in-
http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...ridge-bottom-b...
then there's a few cheaper crank choices available.

Sorry, I previously posted a suggestion to change the bearings. It is
likely that you have the usual "English" thread in the BB but to be
sure take a bearing housing with you when you go shopping. The older
style, one piece, BB's are made in various axle lengths, which have an
effect on the chain line. It also varies on whether you use a one, two
or three chain ring crank. To install the one piece BB takes a special
wrench and there seem to be several different tools available - few,
if any, are interchangeable.

Once you get the BB installed there are at least two different tapers
used so the new cranks will need to match the BB. You can put them on
with common hand tools but you a "crank puller" to get them off.

To be blunt, if you don't have the tools and you don't have the
experience this is likely a job that you would be better off to have
done for you. I would assume that if you bought the new BB and crank
set from a shop that installation would be minimal, or free.

--
Cheers,
John B.

John,
You need to move into this century before giving advice.
Taper? Not in this scenario. One piece BB?. Also not here.
Read the OP's posts and look at the photo he posted.
Then look here.http://mountain-bike.wonderhowto.com...vativ-gxp-exte...
Nothing you described is remotely relevant.
DR

I withdraw my previous comment. The OP is indeed now speaking of a
complete replacement with a square taper crank.
DR


I do remember that square-taper cranks can have issues as well--but the
problem I am looking at now is that most of the BB30 road triple cranks
still available are fancy carbon things costing $500. I don't want and
can't afford that, and the more I think about it, the less reason there
was for the current cranks to fail this way.

If there was a cheaper 130/74 road triple that would fit right into the
current BB I would consider it, but not for $500, or even $300.... Under
$200 maybe.

Among the square-taper cranks, there's a few under $150 total,,,,,
including buying the new BB.

On 9/24/2012 11:03 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 13:15, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote:
Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the
spindle. The
non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears
to be the
bearing
play (it could probably use new bearings anyway).

I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so
what [special]
tools
would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of
crank is it
exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be
tightened up,,,) \

The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way
through from the
drive side, to the non-drive side....

http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...s/loose01.html


Looks similar to this?

http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb

A quick google search yields..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc


I have an arbor press and torque wrenches.

Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the
frame? I'm not
finding much available in the road 130/74 category that
doesn't cost
huge sums of money.

This is the only drop-in I have found so far-
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0#ReviewHeader




(FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset)

The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is
122mm.


Whoa! I thought you wanted to fix what you have? Before
trying to find
replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong
with what you've
got. It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away
from good as new.


I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings.
The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the
spindle. The right
crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's
glued on, and
not ever supposed to come loose.

Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to
re-glue them, but
I don't even care to try.

Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and
mine was
another one of them.

Ooo - that's not good. Yes, it sounds like a replacement is
the way to go.

If this would fit in-
http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...acket-1203.htm


then there's a few cheaper crank choices available.



From the tech manual on this page
http://www.sram.com/service/truvativ/42 it would seem that
yours is likely 68 mm. Measure to be sure, and then I would
suspect the Shimano BB you linked to above would fit.
Careful of Italian v English threads, and make sure to get
one with a long enough axle to space the crank set far
enough from the frame.

Mr. A. Muzi will likely have some suggestions for you.

To install the Shimano BB you will need a special tool, and
to remove the cranks in the future a different tool.


This meandered among diagnosis, repair and replacement so I
only read along.

Yes, cranks are readily available in many formats depending
on rider's various criteria. (shiny? low gears? cheap?)

Yes, changing formats means duplicate tooling requirements,
another good reason to consult with a competent LBS in the
neighborhood, review a selection of available crank models
and have it installed properly.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Sep 24, 8:15*pm, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote:









On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote:
Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The
non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing
play (it could probably use new bearings anyway).

I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools
would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it
exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \

The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the
drive side, to the non-drive side....

http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...ies/recumbent/....

Looks similar to this?

http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb

A quick google search yields..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc

I have an arbor press and torque wrenches.

Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not
finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost
huge sums of money.

This is the only drop-in I have found so far-
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._-1___202430#R....

(FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset)

The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm.

Whoa! *I thought you wanted to fix what you have? *Before trying to find
replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've
got. *It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new.

I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings.
The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the spindle. The right
crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's glued on, and
not ever supposed to come loose.

Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to re-glue them, but
I don't even care to try.

Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and mine was
another one of them.

If this would fit in-http://harriscyclery.net/product/shimano-68mm-un55-cartridge-bottom-b...
then there's a few cheaper crank choices available.

You don't have a BB 30 from what I can see. You have a conventional
outboard bearing BB and a two piece crank (a crank with a "built in"
spindle).

You can remove the old bearing cups and install a threaded BB of the
appropriate dimension and a new square drive crank, if that's the
direction you want to go. Check to make sure it is a 68mm and not a
72mm BB shell width (I can't tell from the picture whether it is a
road bike or mountain bike). Tools required to remove the old crank
would include a hex wrench and an outboard bearing wrench -- which
would not be worth purchasing if you are abandoning outboard
bearings. You would also need a new BB wrench for the new cartridge,
which would only cost a few bucks.

I would certainly go back to the seller to see if you can get a
warranty replacement for the crank. The spindle should not loosen.

-- Jay Beattie.

BETWEEN Nashbat and books and Third Hand cartoons/personnel, I replaced the '78
BB as seperate shaft, cups, lockrings, pedals as a successful project...I rebuild my Volvo every 10 years.

but actually learning square taper shafts takes trial and error and by the time I learned how to torque, cobble, and repair...square tapirs were obsolete.

butbut then when I built my XCrosser trek, Nbar came thru with a solid shimano square tapir rig for ELEVEN FREAKING BUCKS

I bought 2

the new level component should make life easioer.

read the info, buy the right size in Deore, use red loctite on pedal.cranks surface end with paint or linseed.

itsno big deal now/

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 07:59:13 -0700 (PDT), DirtRoadie
wrote:

On Sep 25, 6:52*am, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 24 Sep 2012 22:15:13 -0500, Doug Cimperman









wrote:
On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote:
Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The
non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing
play (it could probably use new bearings anyway).

I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools
would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it
exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \

The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the
drive side, to the non-drive side....

http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...ies/recumbent/...

Looks similar to this?

http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb

A quick google search yields..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc

I have an arbor press and torque wrenches.

Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not
finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost
huge sums of money.

This is the only drop-in I have found so far-
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._-1___202430#R...

(FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset)

The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm.

Whoa! *I thought you wanted to fix what you have? *Before trying to find
replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've
got. *It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new.

I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings.
The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the spindle. The right
crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's glued on, and
not ever supposed to come loose.

Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to re-glue them, but
I don't even care to try.

Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and mine was
another one of them.

If this would fit in-
http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...ridge-bottom-b...
then there's a few cheaper crank choices available.

Sorry, I previously posted a suggestion to change the bearings. It is
likely that you have the usual "English" thread in the BB but to be
sure take a bearing housing with you when you go shopping. The older
style, one piece, BB's are made in various axle lengths, which have an
effect on the chain line. It also varies on whether you use a one, two
or three chain ring crank. To install the one piece BB takes a special
wrench and there seem to be several different tools available - few,
if any, are interchangeable.

Once you get the BB installed there are at least two different tapers
used so the new cranks will need to match the BB. You can put them on
with common hand tools but you a "crank puller" to get them off.

To be blunt, if you don't have the tools and you don't have the
experience this is likely a job that you would be better off to have
done for you. I would assume that if you bought the new BB and crank
set from a shop that installation would be minimal, or free.

--
Cheers,
John B.

John,
You need to move into this century before giving advice.
Taper? Not in this scenario. One piece BB?. Also not here.
Read the OP's posts and look at the photo he posted.
Then look here.
http://mountain-bike.wonderhowto.com...-crank-372127/
Nothing you described is remotely relevant.
DR

The Original Poster asked "Is it possible to install a square-taper BB
into the frame?" and it certainly is. New BB and cranks using square
tapered axles are still available.

--
Cheers,
John B.

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 08:12:56 -0700 (PDT), DirtRoadie
wrote:

On Sep 25, 8:59*am, DirtRoadie wrote:
On Sep 25, 6:52*am, John B. wrote:









On Mon, 24 Sep 2012 22:15:13 -0500, Doug Cimperman

wrote:
On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote:
Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The
non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing
play (it could probably use new bearings anyway).

I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools
would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it
exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \

The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the
drive side, to the non-drive side....

http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...ies/recumbent/...

Looks similar to this?

http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb

A quick google search yields..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc

I have an arbor press and torque wrenches.

Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not
finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost
huge sums of money.

This is the only drop-in I have found so far-
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._-1___202430#R...

(FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset)

The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm.

Whoa! *I thought you wanted to fix what you have? *Before trying to find
replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've
got. *It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new.

I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings.
The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the spindle. The right
crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's glued on, and
not ever supposed to come loose.

Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to re-glue them, but
I don't even care to try.

Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and mine was
another one of them.

If this would fit in-
http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...ridge-bottom-b...
then there's a few cheaper crank choices available.

Sorry, I previously posted a suggestion to change the bearings. It is
likely that you have the usual "English" thread in the BB but to be
sure take a bearing housing with you when you go shopping. The older
style, one piece, BB's are made in various axle lengths, which have an
effect on the chain line. It also varies on whether you use a one, two
or three chain ring crank. To install the one piece BB takes a special
wrench and there seem to be several different tools available - few,
if any, are interchangeable.

Once you get the BB installed there are at least two different tapers
used so the new cranks will need to match the BB. You can put them on
with common hand tools but you a "crank puller" to get them off.

To be blunt, if you don't have the tools and you don't have the
experience this is likely a job that you would be better off to have
done for you. I would assume that if you bought the new BB and crank
set from a shop that installation would be minimal, or free.

--
Cheers,
John B.

John,
You need to move into this century before giving advice.
Taper? Not in this scenario. One piece BB?. Also not here.
Read the OP's posts and look at the photo he posted.
Then look here.http://mountain-bike.wonderhowto.com...vativ-gxp-exte...
Nothing you described is remotely relevant.
DR

I withdraw my previous comment. The OP is indeed now speaking of a
complete replacement with a square taper crank.
DR

Appreciate it.
--
Cheers,
John B.

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 10:44:14 -0500, Doug Cimperman
wrote:

On 9/25/2012 10:12 AM, DirtRoadie wrote:
On Sep 25, 8:59 am, DirtRoadie wrote:
On Sep 25, 6:52 am, John B. wrote:









On Mon, 24 Sep 2012 22:15:13 -0500, Doug Cimperman

wrote:
On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote:
Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The
non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing
play (it could probably use new bearings anyway).

I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools
would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it
exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \

The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the
drive side, to the non-drive side....

http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...ies/recumbent/...

Looks similar to this?

http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb

A quick google search yields..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc

I have an arbor press and torque wrenches.

Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not
finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost
huge sums of money.

This is the only drop-in I have found so far-
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._-1___202430#R...

(FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset)

The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm.

Whoa! I thought you wanted to fix what you have? Before trying to find
replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've
got. It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new.

I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings.
The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the spindle. The right
crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's glued on, and
not ever supposed to come loose.

Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to re-glue them, but
I don't even care to try.

Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and mine was
another one of them.

If this would fit in-
http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...ridge-bottom-b...
then there's a few cheaper crank choices available.

Sorry, I previously posted a suggestion to change the bearings. It is
likely that you have the usual "English" thread in the BB but to be
sure take a bearing housing with you when you go shopping. The older
style, one piece, BB's are made in various axle lengths, which have an
effect on the chain line. It also varies on whether you use a one, two
or three chain ring crank. To install the one piece BB takes a special
wrench and there seem to be several different tools available - few,
if any, are interchangeable.

Once you get the BB installed there are at least two different tapers
used so the new cranks will need to match the BB. You can put them on
with common hand tools but you a "crank puller" to get them off.

To be blunt, if you don't have the tools and you don't have the
experience this is likely a job that you would be better off to have
done for you. I would assume that if you bought the new BB and crank
set from a shop that installation would be minimal, or free.

--
Cheers,
John B.

John,
You need to move into this century before giving advice.
Taper? Not in this scenario. One piece BB?. Also not here.
Read the OP's posts and look at the photo he posted.
Then look here.http://mountain-bike.wonderhowto.com...vativ-gxp-exte...
Nothing you described is remotely relevant.
DR

I withdraw my previous comment. The OP is indeed now speaking of a
complete replacement with a square taper crank.
DR


I do remember that square-taper cranks can have issues as well--but the
problem I am looking at now is that most of the BB30 road triple cranks
still available are fancy carbon things costing $500. I don't want and
can't afford that, and the more I think about it, the less reason there
was for the current cranks to fail this way.

If there was a cheaper 130/74 road triple that would fit right into the
current BB I would consider it, but not for $500, or even $300.... Under
$200 maybe.

Among the square-taper cranks, there's a few under $150 total,,,,,
including buying the new BB.

Do you actually have a BB-30 bottom bracket? A pressed in BB with no
threads? If so there is a conversion BB
http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/06/23/...ks-on-fat-bbs/
that you can use to change to other model crank sets.
If, on the other hand it is a threaded BB then yes you can also
convert between the various versions.

So the first question is what BB do you actually have?
--
Cheers,
John B.

yeah I doahn no TRUATIVE but loose cranks are maybe fixabke with beer can shim material covered with red locktite then torqued down with enough poressure to conform crush the THIN can material like a layer not a wad.

Bearings in a worn race are problematic but worth a try with heavy grease film like soap based bulldozer grease.

What happens with moving parts is the 3 parts in the BB-one one side-wal/bearing/wall get used to each other buT still wear in an ellipTical pattern on one or boTh walls so you can TighTen somewhere but along THe rolling paTh The balss and walls will quickly come to anoTher wear point measurement.

so if you TIghTen...my T's are out...where the unit is tight then its losse when iot gets to the loose area or tighten in the loose area then when it revolves to the tight area, the too toghtens then forces the entire unit outward to total looseness within a few miles.

NOT having this happen is 'WITHIN TOLERANCES' a term you'll find in auto maintenance specs for measuring wear to proceed or replace.

'WIThIN tOLERANCE' works for bikee repair but with bikes the parts replacement cost is so low...if you avoid specialized and proprietary parts designs....that replacement is the best option..

there are small strings or strips of plastic from NAPA you place in he uni's race then screw it bak together, take apart then measure the crushed width of the plastic to check TOLERANCE within the unit as an operating assembly.

the bike you have isnot a WORLD CLASS bike that is itsnot something the uppermiddle class in Singapore would ride, they would ride Deore or similar. What has you by the balls is more like Lotu$