Phil Wod hub looseness

I have an old but only recently laced Phil Wood front hub that has a
slight wobble in it. I noticed it today while trying to track down a
recurring tick noise from the front wheel.

The looseness is slight- the kind of thing you'd get with a cup and
cone hub when you left things just a bit loose to account for the
pressure of the quick release.

It turns out that it is one side of the hub that is loose. And that
the loose spot is tied to a particular ball bearing in the cartridge
hub, not to the 'cone' - the part of the axle assembly that is pressed
into the center of the cartridge bearing (wobble is in one orientation
only and it follows a ball bearing, not a particular spot on the
'cone').

Since I only paid $20 for the hub, no sense in sending it back for a
$45 plus rebuild.

Anyone know any tricks to getting rid of such a wobble? Any idea if it
is dangerous? I've had the wheel up to 43 mph without nay noticeable
problems (assuming the problem was there a couple of weeks ago).

I will keep looking at other possible sources of the tick noise, but
if it's the hub and I can't get rid of it, I'll just toss it. No part,
'classic' or whatever, is worth an annoying noise.

My Phil hubs have always had play,even when they were brand new. It has
never caused a problem while riding. I never have had one that made a tick
noise though.

"Dan Daniel" wrote in message
...
I have an old but only recently laced Phil Wood front hub that has a
slight wobble in it. I noticed it today while trying to track down a
recurring tick noise from the front wheel.

The looseness is slight- the kind of thing you'd get with a cup and
cone hub when you left things just a bit loose to account for the
pressure of the quick release.

It turns out that it is one side of the hub that is loose. And that
the loose spot is tied to a particular ball bearing in the cartridge
hub, not to the 'cone' - the part of the axle assembly that is pressed
into the center of the cartridge bearing (wobble is in one orientation
only and it follows a ball bearing, not a particular spot on the
'cone').

Since I only paid $20 for the hub, no sense in sending it back for a
$45 plus rebuild.

Anyone know any tricks to getting rid of such a wobble? Any idea if it
is dangerous? I've had the wheel up to 43 mph without nay noticeable
problems (assuming the problem was there a couple of weeks ago).

I will keep looking at other possible sources of the tick noise, but
if it's the hub and I can't get rid of it, I'll just toss it. No part,
'classic' or whatever, is worth an annoying noise.

My Phil hubs have always had play,even when they were brand new. It has
never caused a problem while riding. I never have had one that made a tick
noise though.

"Dan Daniel" wrote in message
...
I have an old but only recently laced Phil Wood front hub that has a
slight wobble in it. I noticed it today while trying to track down a
recurring tick noise from the front wheel.

The looseness is slight- the kind of thing you'd get with a cup and
cone hub when you left things just a bit loose to account for the
pressure of the quick release.

It turns out that it is one side of the hub that is loose. And that
the loose spot is tied to a particular ball bearing in the cartridge
hub, not to the 'cone' - the part of the axle assembly that is pressed
into the center of the cartridge bearing (wobble is in one orientation
only and it follows a ball bearing, not a particular spot on the
'cone').

Since I only paid $20 for the hub, no sense in sending it back for a
$45 plus rebuild.

Anyone know any tricks to getting rid of such a wobble? Any idea if it
is dangerous? I've had the wheel up to 43 mph without nay noticeable
problems (assuming the problem was there a couple of weeks ago).

I will keep looking at other possible sources of the tick noise, but
if it's the hub and I can't get rid of it, I'll just toss it. No part,
'classic' or whatever, is worth an annoying noise.

My Phil hubs have always had play,even when they were brand new. It has
never caused a problem while riding. I never have had one that made a tick
noise though.

"Dan Daniel" wrote in message
...
I have an old but only recently laced Phil Wood front hub that has a
slight wobble in it. I noticed it today while trying to track down a
recurring tick noise from the front wheel.

The looseness is slight- the kind of thing you'd get with a cup and
cone hub when you left things just a bit loose to account for the
pressure of the quick release.

It turns out that it is one side of the hub that is loose. And that
the loose spot is tied to a particular ball bearing in the cartridge
hub, not to the 'cone' - the part of the axle assembly that is pressed
into the center of the cartridge bearing (wobble is in one orientation
only and it follows a ball bearing, not a particular spot on the
'cone').

Since I only paid $20 for the hub, no sense in sending it back for a
$45 plus rebuild.

Anyone know any tricks to getting rid of such a wobble? Any idea if it
is dangerous? I've had the wheel up to 43 mph without nay noticeable
problems (assuming the problem was there a couple of weeks ago).

I will keep looking at other possible sources of the tick noise, but
if it's the hub and I can't get rid of it, I'll just toss it. No part,
'classic' or whatever, is worth an annoying noise.

Dan Daniel Wrote:
I have an old but only recently laced Phil Wood front hub that has a
slight wobble in it. I noticed it today while trying to track down a
recurring tick noise from the front wheel.

The looseness is slight- the kind of thing you'd get with a cup and
cone hub when you left things just a bit loose to account for the
pressure of the quick release.

It turns out that it is one side of the hub that is loose. And that
the loose spot is tied to a particular ball bearing in the cartridge
hub, not to the 'cone' - the part of the axle assembly that is pressed
into the center of the cartridge bearing (wobble is in one orientation
only and it follows a ball bearing, not a particular spot on the
'cone').

Since I only paid $20 for the hub, no sense in sending it back for a
$45 plus rebuild.

Anyone know any tricks to getting rid of such a wobble? Any idea if it
is dangerous? I've had the wheel up to 43 mph without nay noticeable
problems (assuming the problem was there a couple of weeks ago).

I will keep looking at other possible sources of the tick noise, but
if it's the hub and I can't get rid of it, I'll just toss it. No part,
'classic' or whatever, is worth an annoying noise.


Do you know of anyone in your area that works on electric motors?
They will likely have the tools to remove and replace the cartridg
bearing.
The cartridge is likely a metric sized 6000 series unit. The newe
Phil Wood hubs still use the same type bearings, but have a fiel
serviceable axle that allows a user with a pair of Allen wrenches t
pull the axles and pop out the bearing cartridges. The old style
pre-FSA, require a bearing puller for removal and a bearing press fo
installation. Most electric motor repair facilities have the tools an
bearings available

--
daveornee

Dan Daniel Wrote:
I have an old but only recently laced Phil Wood front hub that has a
slight wobble in it. I noticed it today while trying to track down a
recurring tick noise from the front wheel.

The looseness is slight- the kind of thing you'd get with a cup and
cone hub when you left things just a bit loose to account for the
pressure of the quick release.

It turns out that it is one side of the hub that is loose. And that
the loose spot is tied to a particular ball bearing in the cartridge
hub, not to the 'cone' - the part of the axle assembly that is pressed
into the center of the cartridge bearing (wobble is in one orientation
only and it follows a ball bearing, not a particular spot on the
'cone').

Since I only paid $20 for the hub, no sense in sending it back for a
$45 plus rebuild.

Anyone know any tricks to getting rid of such a wobble? Any idea if it
is dangerous? I've had the wheel up to 43 mph without nay noticeable
problems (assuming the problem was there a couple of weeks ago).

I will keep looking at other possible sources of the tick noise, but
if it's the hub and I can't get rid of it, I'll just toss it. No part,
'classic' or whatever, is worth an annoying noise.


Do you know of anyone in your area that works on electric motors?
They will likely have the tools to remove and replace the cartridg
bearing.
The cartridge is likely a metric sized 6000 series unit. The newe
Phil Wood hubs still use the same type bearings, but have a fiel
serviceable axle that allows a user with a pair of Allen wrenches t
pull the axles and pop out the bearing cartridges. The old style
pre-FSA, require a bearing puller for removal and a bearing press fo
installation. Most electric motor repair facilities have the tools an
bearings available

--
daveornee

Dan Daniel Wrote:
I have an old but only recently laced Phil Wood front hub that has a
slight wobble in it. I noticed it today while trying to track down a
recurring tick noise from the front wheel.

The looseness is slight- the kind of thing you'd get with a cup and
cone hub when you left things just a bit loose to account for the
pressure of the quick release.

It turns out that it is one side of the hub that is loose. And that
the loose spot is tied to a particular ball bearing in the cartridge
hub, not to the 'cone' - the part of the axle assembly that is pressed
into the center of the cartridge bearing (wobble is in one orientation
only and it follows a ball bearing, not a particular spot on the
'cone').

Since I only paid $20 for the hub, no sense in sending it back for a
$45 plus rebuild.

Anyone know any tricks to getting rid of such a wobble? Any idea if it
is dangerous? I've had the wheel up to 43 mph without nay noticeable
problems (assuming the problem was there a couple of weeks ago).

I will keep looking at other possible sources of the tick noise, but
if it's the hub and I can't get rid of it, I'll just toss it. No part,
'classic' or whatever, is worth an annoying noise.


Do you know of anyone in your area that works on electric motors?
They will likely have the tools to remove and replace the cartridg
bearing.
The cartridge is likely a metric sized 6000 series unit. The newe
Phil Wood hubs still use the same type bearings, but have a fiel
serviceable axle that allows a user with a pair of Allen wrenches t
pull the axles and pop out the bearing cartridges. The old style
pre-FSA, require a bearing puller for removal and a bearing press fo
installation. Most electric motor repair facilities have the tools an
bearings available

--
daveornee

daveornee writes:

Do you know of anyone in your area that works on electric motors?
They will likely have the tools to remove and replace the cartridge
bearing. The cartridge is likely a metric sized 6000 series unit.
The newer Phil Wood hubs still use the same type bearings, but have
a field serviceable axle that allows a user with a pair of Allen
wrenches to pull the axles and pop out the bearing cartridges. The
old style, pre-FSA, require a bearing puller for removal and a
bearing press for installation. Most electric motor repair
facilities have the tools and bearings available.

That's excellent information, Dave. I've always thought it
implausible that wheels would have to be shipped back to Phil Wood for
bearing replacement. I figured someone would have to have tools that
would do the job.

daveornee writes:

Do you know of anyone in your area that works on electric motors?
They will likely have the tools to remove and replace the cartridge
bearing. The cartridge is likely a metric sized 6000 series unit.
The newer Phil Wood hubs still use the same type bearings, but have
a field serviceable axle that allows a user with a pair of Allen
wrenches to pull the axles and pop out the bearing cartridges. The
old style, pre-FSA, require a bearing puller for removal and a
bearing press for installation. Most electric motor repair
facilities have the tools and bearings available.

That's excellent information, Dave. I've always thought it
implausible that wheels would have to be shipped back to Phil Wood for
bearing replacement. I figured someone would have to have tools that
would do the job.

daveornee writes:

Do you know of anyone in your area that works on electric motors?
They will likely have the tools to remove and replace the cartridge
bearing. The cartridge is likely a metric sized 6000 series unit.
The newer Phil Wood hubs still use the same type bearings, but have
a field serviceable axle that allows a user with a pair of Allen
wrenches to pull the axles and pop out the bearing cartridges. The
old style, pre-FSA, require a bearing puller for removal and a
bearing press for installation. Most electric motor repair
facilities have the tools and bearings available.

That's excellent information, Dave. I've always thought it
implausible that wheels would have to be shipped back to Phil Wood for
bearing replacement. I figured someone would have to have tools that
would do the job.