Peugeot fixed gear BB / crank question

Hello all,

I'm in the process of converting a beautiful vintage Peugeot to a
fixed gear. I've rebuilt the freewheel with a standard track hub and I'm
now ready to replace the bottom bracket and crankset. After reading
several excellent articles by Sheldon Brown, it appears that going with
this combination of cups[1] and spindle[2] seems to be the most
affordable option (I can't exactly afford the luxury of Phil Wood
components as I'm paying my way through school!). However, the smallest
available spindle size is the one pictured - 113mm, and as I'm new to
the fixed gear world, I'm a little unsure as to whether or not there are
suitable cranks to give me a solid chainline with that spindle.

Any advice at all would be greatly appreciated!

[1] http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2169
[2] http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1363

Thanks much,
--
stephen dimmick ::

Stephen Dimmick wrote:

I'm in the process of converting a beautiful vintage Peugeot to a
fixed gear. I've rebuilt the freewheel with a standard track hub and I'm
now ready to replace the bottom bracket and crankset. After reading
several excellent articles by Sheldon Brown, it appears that going with
this combination of cups[1] and spindle[2] seems to be the most
affordable option (I can't exactly afford the luxury of Phil Wood
components as I'm paying my way through school!). However, the smallest
available spindle size is the one pictured - 113mm, and as I'm new to
the fixed gear world, I'm a little unsure as to whether or not there are
suitable cranks to give me a solid chainline with that spindle.

Any advice at all would be greatly appreciated!

[1] http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2169
[2] http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1363

Maybe I missed something - if that Peugeot is old enough, it will have a
French-threaded bottom bracket, and the cups you cite are English
thread. Have you checked out the type of BB threads you have?

Note: http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails...gId=39&id=1072

Mark J.

Mark wrote:
Maybe I missed something - if that Peugeot is old enough, it will have a
French-threaded bottom bracket, and the cups you cite are English
thread. Have you checked out the type of BB threads you have?

Note: http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails...gId=39&id=1072

Oops, I wasn't paying attention and posted the wrong link! Sorry about
that - I did purchase French threaded cups, as the bike is quite old and
the BB threads are indeed French. Thanks for pointing that out!

--
stephen dimmick ::

Stephen Dimmick wrote:
Hello all,

I'm in the process of converting a beautiful vintage Peugeot to a
fixed gear. I've rebuilt the freewheel with a standard track hub and I'm
now ready to replace the bottom bracket and crankset. After reading
several excellent articles by Sheldon Brown, it appears that going with
this combination of cups[1] and spindle[2] seems to be the most
affordable option (I can't exactly afford the luxury of Phil Wood
components as I'm paying my way through school!). However, the smallest
available spindle size is the one pictured - 113mm, and as I'm new to
the fixed gear world, I'm a little unsure as to whether or not there are
suitable cranks to give me a solid chainline with that spindle.

Any advice at all would be greatly appreciated!

I've done a few fixed/single-speed conversions. i think the best way to
start is with the crank and aim for a chainline close to 40mm and then
build the wheel accordingly.

find parts you can afford to get the chainline within the right range.
do a "dry run" to see if the 113mm spindle might work.

wrote:
I've done a few fixed/single-speed conversions. i think the best way to
start is with the crank and aim for a chainline close to 40mm and then
build the wheel accordingly.

find parts you can afford to get the chainline within the right range.
do a "dry run" to see if the 113mm spindle might work.

Thanks for the info! I found a crankset that will make a 41mm chainline
with a 110mm bottom bracket according to Sheldon Brown's great site, so
with the 113mm spindle, I should be able to correct the 3mm (or so)
difference by spacing the track cog with washers or by repositioning the
rear wheel on its axle, right?

--
stephen dimmick ::

Stephen Dimmick wrote:
wrote:

I've done a few fixed/single-speed conversions. i think the best way to
start is with the crank and aim for a chainline close to 40mm and then
build the wheel accordingly.

find parts you can afford to get the chainline within the right range.
do a "dry run" to see if the 113mm spindle might work.


Thanks for the info! I found a crankset that will make a 41mm chainline
with a 110mm bottom bracket according to Sheldon Brown's great site, so
with the 113mm spindle, I should be able to correct the 3mm (or so)
difference by spacing the track cog with washers or by repositioning the
rear wheel on its axle, right?


If the spindle is symmetric, then the chainline should be at 42.5 mm.
Standard track chainline (IME) is 42 mm. This is definitely close
enough. Just build (or have built) a dishless wheel with a normal track
hub (or at least the chainline thereof) and you should be good to go.
\\paul

--
Paul M. Hobson
Georgia Institute of Technology
..:change the f to ph to reply:.

Paul Hobson wrote:
If the spindle is symmetric, then the chainline should be at 42.5 mm.
Standard track chainline (IME) is 42 mm. This is definitely close
enough. Just build (or have built) a dishless wheel with a normal track
hub (or at least the chainline thereof) and you should be good to go.

Apparently I should have started this project before my
fixed-gear-knowledgeable neighbor moved away! Thanks for the advice,
Paul. The spindle is not symmetrical, but it appears that I should be
able to form a straight chainline with some combination of washers,
spacing of the rear hub, or backwards installation of the spindle.

Much thanks,
--
stephen dimmick ::

"Stephen Dimmick" wrote in message
...
wrote:
I've done a few fixed/single-speed conversions. i think the best way to
start is with the crank and aim for a chainline close to 40mm and then
build the wheel accordingly.

find parts you can afford to get the chainline within the right range.
do a "dry run" to see if the 113mm spindle might work.

Thanks for the info! I found a crankset that will make a 41mm chainline
with a 110mm bottom bracket according to Sheldon Brown's great site, so
with the 113mm spindle, I should be able to correct the 3mm (or so)
difference by spacing the track cog with washers or by repositioning the
rear wheel on its axle, right?

If by moving the wheel you also move the driven hub flange farther out from
the centre-line, that would be the best way to go, rather than moving the
rear cog This will give you both a stronger wheel and a bit less overhang
between the dropout and the wheel bearing on the driven side.

Remember to check that the axle - if hollow and you are using a
quick-release - does not protrude beyond the dropout flange.

wrote:
(Stephen Dimmick wrote):
I'm in the process of converting a beautiful vintage Peugeot to a
fixed gear. I've rebuilt the freewheel with a standard track hub and I'm
now ready to replace the bottom bracket and crankset. After reading
several excellent articles by Sheldon Brown, it appears that going with
this combination of cups[1] and spindle[2] seems to be the most
affordable option (I can't exactly afford the luxury of Phil Wood
components as I'm paying my way through school!). However, the smallest
available spindle size is the one pictured - 113mm, and as I'm new to
the fixed gear world, I'm a little unsure as to whether or not there are
suitable cranks to give me a solid chainline with that spindle.

(reply):
I've done a few fixed/single-speed conversions. i think the best way to
start is with the crank and aim for a chainline close to 40mm and then
build the wheel accordingly.

You might post your list of chosen components, Mr. D. Are you going
all-Japan with your crank and BB? Euro tapers on the BB axle are
different:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

'Scuse me if you've homeworked that already.

I have a FG bike where the rear wheel has a "track adapter" on the hub,
cog screwed on backwards to get chainline. Old 126 road hub, I put a
shorter axle for the 120mm spacing the frame has, normal Campy washers,
etc. Moved the rim over to center with a "redish". Not the cheapest way
to go, maybe, but easy. And happened to be "just right", which is the
way to go, of course. Just for example:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Drews-Adapter-Tr...QQcmdZViewItem

Always use a tool, not a finger, to check chain tension. Did that one
wrong for years, too. Never got a finger chopped off. Luck. And good
luck to you! --D-y

wrote:
You might post your list of chosen components, Mr. D. Are you going
all-Japan with your crank and BB? Euro tapers on the BB axle are
different:

Here's the list of components I'm thinking about at the moment:

Cups: http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1072
Spindle: http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1363
Crank: http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=691

And I rebuilt the rear wheel with one of these:

http://tinyurl.com/46uoc

which admittedly is a flip-flop and not the standard track hub I
previously said it was!

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
'Scuse me if you've homeworked that already.

Yep, I'm definitely going all Japan, or at least "Various Manufacturers"
and Japan!

I have a FG bike where the rear wheel has a "track adapter" on the hub,
cog screwed on backwards to get chainline. Old 126 road hub, I put a
shorter axle for the 120mm spacing the frame has, normal Campy washers,
etc. Moved the rim over to center with a "redish". Not the cheapest way
to go, maybe, but easy. And happened to be "just right", which is the
way to go, of course. Just for example:

Wow, that's pretty nifty. I ended up rebuilding both the wheels because
the original wheels were heavy and in pretty bad shape anyway. I'd also
never built a wheel before and wanted to learn. However, if I don't have
any luck with this current combination (and for future projects), that
track adapter might just do the trick.

Always use a tool, not a finger, to check chain tension. Did that one
wrong for years, too. Never got a finger chopped off. Luck. And good
luck to you! --D-y

Oh don't worry, I've heard stories and seen pictures! It seems that I'm
able to talk for hours with local fixed gear enthusiasts about the joy
of riding, helpful advice, etc., but each conversation seems to end the
same way:

"Hey man, nice to meet you! Good luck! But seriously, and I mean
seriously, be safe."

Thanks a million for your advice, Mr. Raskolnikov!
--
stephen dimmick ::