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#11
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Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.
JAP..
https://www.google.com/search?site=i...7KE&gws_rd=ssl you know like if ura gonna dick around with the hubs then why not buy the best....really....nickel and dime.... nothing beats destroying a set of grade 5 bearings |
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#12
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Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.
wrote in message ... Fullfrauds has a complete stock The ****wit behind the counter must've been more confused than usual on the day I went there! |
#13
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Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.
"Phil W Lee" wrote in message ... "Ian Field" considered Mon, 1 Sep 2014 17:52:39 +0100 the perfect time to write: "Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message ... On Sunday, August 31, 2014 2:45:30 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote: wrote in message ... if bearings rumble either in feel or hearing then bearings and cones are gonna wear out soon....like zero usefulness Its got me beat - I put in new ball bearings bought from a different shop, I checked the locknuts hadn't worked loose before taking it apart and I examined the wear lines on the cones. If it keeps on doing it, I'm resigned to keep adjusting AR until something breaks properly. I had that problem on a wheel many years ago. Painting tyhe inside of the cups and then putting in new balls and then adjusting the cone and locknut then riding for a few weeks then opening up the hub again revealed my problem. The paint showed a thin line of silver. Turned out that one of the cups in the hub was moving inboard slightly over time. Needed a new hub on that wheel. When I went in Halfrauds to buy ball bearings, I could only buy pre-packed 7 balls in a cage and a cone. Today I went in Halfrauds to buy a pair of cones - the ****wit behind the counter told me "we don't sell cones - you have to buy a complete spindle kit". The cones in it look OK, but apart from swapping out the whole wheel its the only thing I haven't tried yet. Apart from a BMX/skateboard shop that stocks very little of any use to a MTB - the only other shop in town is exploiting the discontent with Halfrauds to fleece the yuppies. I keep the standard cycle sizes (5/32", 3/16" & 1/4") of ball in stock. Much less expensive to buy in larger packs from a bearing specialist, and you have a better chance of ending up with something that isn't relabeled birdshot (or at least that behaves like it). http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=23 Prices in GBP for bags of 500 in each size: Grade: 100 (std) 10 (best) Size 5/32" 14.88 16.99 3/16" 15.66 19.99 1/4" 22.50 25.60 All plus VAT, but shipping is free (or included) within the UK. My only connection with that site is as a satisfied customer. My latest theory is that the ball races in the hub are ****ed and chewed up the new ball bearings I put in. After about a week of use; the bearings from the first shop came out not shiny anymore and the grease was full of tiny shiny flecks. So far I haven't inspected the bearings from the second shop - I'll just keep adjusting up the wear as often as I could be bothered until I get hold of another wheel. |
#14
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Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.
"Phil W Lee" wrote in message ... "Ian Field" considered Tue, 2 Sep 2014 19:18:58 +0100 the perfect time to write: "Phil W Lee" wrote in message . .. "Ian Field" considered Mon, 1 Sep 2014 17:52:39 +0100 the perfect time to write: "Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message ... On Sunday, August 31, 2014 2:45:30 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote: wrote in message ... if bearings rumble either in feel or hearing then bearings and cones are gonna wear out soon....like zero usefulness Its got me beat - I put in new ball bearings bought from a different shop, I checked the locknuts hadn't worked loose before taking it apart and I examined the wear lines on the cones. If it keeps on doing it, I'm resigned to keep adjusting AR until something breaks properly. I had that problem on a wheel many years ago. Painting tyhe inside of the cups and then putting in new balls and then adjusting the cone and locknut then riding for a few weeks then opening up the hub again revealed my problem. The paint showed a thin line of silver. Turned out that one of the cups in the hub was moving inboard slightly over time. Needed a new hub on that wheel. When I went in Halfrauds to buy ball bearings, I could only buy pre-packed 7 balls in a cage and a cone. Today I went in Halfrauds to buy a pair of cones - the ****wit behind the counter told me "we don't sell cones - you have to buy a complete spindle kit". The cones in it look OK, but apart from swapping out the whole wheel its the only thing I haven't tried yet. Apart from a BMX/skateboard shop that stocks very little of any use to a MTB - the only other shop in town is exploiting the discontent with Halfrauds to fleece the yuppies. I keep the standard cycle sizes (5/32", 3/16" & 1/4") of ball in stock. Much less expensive to buy in larger packs from a bearing specialist, and you have a better chance of ending up with something that isn't relabeled birdshot (or at least that behaves like it). http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=23 Prices in GBP for bags of 500 in each size: Grade: 100 (std) 10 (best) Size 5/32" 14.88 16.99 3/16" 15.66 19.99 1/4" 22.50 25.60 All plus VAT, but shipping is free (or included) within the UK. My only connection with that site is as a satisfied customer. My latest theory is that the ball races in the hub are ****ed and chewed up the new ball bearings I put in. After about a week of use; the bearings from the first shop came out not shiny anymore and the grease was full of tiny shiny flecks. So far I haven't inspected the bearings from the second shop - I'll just keep adjusting up the wear as often as I could be bothered until I get hold of another wheel. Yeah, sounds like you have the cheese built races problem - and probably nearer to Philadelphia than parmesan. They must've had some hardness, to chew up the new ball bearings I put in. |
#15
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Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.
wrote in message ... JAP.. https://www.google.com/search?site=i...7KE&gws_rd=ssl you know like if ura gonna dick around with the hubs then why not buy the best....really....nickel and dime.... nothing beats destroying a set of grade 5 bearings I'm not one of those show-offs who buys conspicuously the most expensive cycle accessories - and gold plated ball bearings probably wouldn't work any better than the regular ones I bought. The dodgy wheel came off a dumped bike I found beside a cycle track about the time the showmen (carnies) rolled into town, the cones were loose and dry, I assumed that was all it was - I put in new ball bearings and plenty of PTFE grease. Now I'm done with that - I just scrounged another wheel on Freecycle. |
#16
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Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.
yes and no.....thin plated bearings...gray bearings go with worn/used hubs.
Grade 5 go with above average hubs or as new hubs...grade 5 runs new longer than gray bearings. Grade 5's are in new Deore hubs ? or what grade is in there ? maybe there's a chart ...? |
#17
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Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.
On Saturday, September 6, 2014 2:12:12 PM UTC-4, wrote:
yes and no.....thin plated bearings...gray bearings go with worn/used hubs. Grade 5 go with above average hubs or as new hubs...grade 5 runs new longer than gray bearings. Grade 5's are in new Deore hubs ? or what grade is in there ? maybe there's a chart ...? o o oooooo 0 o o o _X |
#18
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Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.
On Saturday, September 6, 2014 2:16:44 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Saturday, September 6, 2014 2:12:12 PM UTC-4, wrote: yes and no.....thin plated bearings...gray bearings go with worn/used hubs. Grade 5 go with above average hubs or as new hubs...grade 5 runs new longer than gray bearings. Grade 5's are in new Deore hubs ? or what grade is in there ? maybe there's a chart ...? o o oooooo 0 o o o _X duh OOOPS Grade 25 not 5 http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bearings.html#balls and off course https://www.google.com/#q=what+grade...+in+Deore+hubs |
#19
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Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.
wrote in message ... yes and no.....thin plated bearings...gray bearings go with worn/used hubs. Grade 5 go with above average hubs or as new hubs...grade 5 runs new longer than gray bearings. The new ball bearings were very shiny when I put them in, and sort of grey when I examined them a few days later to see why the hub hadn't stayed adjusted for long. All the shinyness had become little shiny flecks in the grease. |
#20
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Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.
On Saturday, September 6, 2014 3:14:53 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message ... yes and no.....thin plated bearings...gray bearings go with worn/used hubs. Grade 5 go with above average hubs or as new hubs...grade 5 runs new longer than gray bearings. The new ball bearings were very shiny when I put them in, and sort of grey when I examined them a few days later to see why the hub hadn't stayed adjusted for long. All the shinyness had become little shiny flecks in the grease. cccccccccccccccccx haven't seen that but my hubs aren't inspected at short run times. Use a looser assembly tightness, red Loctite one side n blue ;lock the other side suaully the drive side. Be very clean with paper towel thinner cleaning, 2x....followed by CHOH cleaning of the thinner residue. Let the assembly cure for 3-4 days in warmth/sunshine before using. |
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