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Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.



 
 
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  #11  
Old September 2nd 14, 06:04 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Default Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.

JAP..



https://www.google.com/search?site=i...7KE&gws_rd=ssl

you know like if ura gonna dick around with the hubs then why not buy the best....really....nickel and dime....

nothing beats destroying a set of grade 5 bearings
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  #12  
Old September 2nd 14, 07:11 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
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Posts: 1,008
Default Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.



wrote in message
...
Fullfrauds has a complete stock


The ****wit behind the counter must've been more confused than usual on the
day I went there!

  #13  
Old September 2nd 14, 07:18 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
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Posts: 1,008
Default Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
...
"Ian Field" considered Mon, 1 Sep
2014 17:52:39 +0100 the perfect time to write:



"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, August 31, 2014 2:45:30 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message

...

if bearings rumble either in feel or hearing then bearings and cones
are

gonna wear out soon....like zero usefulness



Its got me beat - I put in new ball bearings bought from a different
shop, I

checked the locknuts hadn't worked loose before taking it apart and I

examined the wear lines on the cones.



If it keeps on doing it, I'm resigned to keep adjusting AR until
something

breaks properly.

I had that problem on a wheel many years ago. Painting tyhe inside of
the
cups and then putting in new balls and then adjusting the cone and
locknut
then riding for a few weeks then opening up the hub again revealed my
problem. The paint showed a thin line of silver. Turned out that one of
the cups in the hub was moving inboard slightly over time. Needed a new
hub on that wheel.


When I went in Halfrauds to buy ball bearings, I could only buy pre-packed
7
balls in a cage and a cone.

Today I went in Halfrauds to buy a pair of cones - the ****wit behind the
counter told me "we don't sell cones - you have to buy a complete spindle
kit".

The cones in it look OK, but apart from swapping out the whole wheel its
the
only thing I haven't tried yet.

Apart from a BMX/skateboard shop that stocks very little of any use to a
MTB - the only other shop in town is exploiting the discontent with
Halfrauds to fleece the yuppies.


I keep the standard cycle sizes (5/32", 3/16" & 1/4") of ball in
stock.
Much less expensive to buy in larger packs from a bearing specialist,
and you have a better chance of ending up with something that isn't
relabeled birdshot (or at least that behaves like it).

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=23

Prices in GBP for bags of 500 in each size:

Grade: 100 (std) 10 (best)
Size
5/32" 14.88 16.99
3/16" 15.66 19.99
1/4" 22.50 25.60

All plus VAT, but shipping is free (or included) within the UK.

My only connection with that site is as a satisfied customer.


My latest theory is that the ball races in the hub are ****ed and chewed up
the new ball bearings I put in.

After about a week of use; the bearings from the first shop came out not
shiny anymore and the grease was full of tiny shiny flecks.

So far I haven't inspected the bearings from the second shop - I'll just
keep adjusting up the wear as often as I could be bothered until I get hold
of another wheel.

  #14  
Old September 3rd 14, 07:08 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
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Posts: 1,008
Default Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
...
"Ian Field" considered Tue, 2 Sep
2014 19:18:58 +0100 the perfect time to write:



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
. ..
"Ian Field" considered Mon, 1 Sep
2014 17:52:39 +0100 the perfect time to write:



"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, August 31, 2014 2:45:30 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message

...

if bearings rumble either in feel or hearing then bearings and
cones
are

gonna wear out soon....like zero usefulness



Its got me beat - I put in new ball bearings bought from a different
shop, I

checked the locknuts hadn't worked loose before taking it apart and I

examined the wear lines on the cones.



If it keeps on doing it, I'm resigned to keep adjusting AR until
something

breaks properly.

I had that problem on a wheel many years ago. Painting tyhe inside of
the
cups and then putting in new balls and then adjusting the cone and
locknut
then riding for a few weeks then opening up the hub again revealed my
problem. The paint showed a thin line of silver. Turned out that one
of
the cups in the hub was moving inboard slightly over time. Needed a
new
hub on that wheel.

When I went in Halfrauds to buy ball bearings, I could only buy
pre-packed
7
balls in a cage and a cone.

Today I went in Halfrauds to buy a pair of cones - the ****wit behind
the
counter told me "we don't sell cones - you have to buy a complete
spindle
kit".

The cones in it look OK, but apart from swapping out the whole wheel its
the
only thing I haven't tried yet.

Apart from a BMX/skateboard shop that stocks very little of any use to a
MTB - the only other shop in town is exploiting the discontent with
Halfrauds to fleece the yuppies.

I keep the standard cycle sizes (5/32", 3/16" & 1/4") of ball in
stock.
Much less expensive to buy in larger packs from a bearing specialist,
and you have a better chance of ending up with something that isn't
relabeled birdshot (or at least that behaves like it).

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=23

Prices in GBP for bags of 500 in each size:

Grade: 100 (std) 10 (best)
Size
5/32" 14.88 16.99
3/16" 15.66 19.99
1/4" 22.50 25.60

All plus VAT, but shipping is free (or included) within the UK.

My only connection with that site is as a satisfied customer.


My latest theory is that the ball races in the hub are ****ed and chewed
up
the new ball bearings I put in.

After about a week of use; the bearings from the first shop came out not
shiny anymore and the grease was full of tiny shiny flecks.

So far I haven't inspected the bearings from the second shop - I'll just
keep adjusting up the wear as often as I could be bothered until I get
hold
of another wheel.


Yeah, sounds like you have the cheese built races problem - and
probably nearer to Philadelphia than parmesan.


They must've had some hardness, to chew up the new ball bearings I put in.

  #15  
Old September 6th 14, 05:56 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.



wrote in message
...
JAP..



https://www.google.com/search?site=i...7KE&gws_rd=ssl

you know like if ura gonna dick around with the hubs then why not buy the
best....really....nickel and dime....

nothing beats destroying a set of grade 5 bearings


I'm not one of those show-offs who buys conspicuously the most expensive
cycle accessories - and gold plated ball bearings probably wouldn't work any
better than the regular ones I bought.

The dodgy wheel came off a dumped bike I found beside a cycle track about
the time the showmen (carnies) rolled into town, the cones were loose and
dry, I assumed that was all it was - I put in new ball bearings and plenty
of PTFE grease.

Now I'm done with that - I just scrounged another wheel on Freecycle.

  #16  
Old September 6th 14, 07:12 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 6,374
Default Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.

yes and no.....thin plated bearings...gray bearings go with worn/used hubs.

Grade 5 go with above average hubs or as new hubs...grade 5 runs new longer than gray bearings.

Grade 5's are in new Deore hubs ? or what grade is in there ? maybe there's a chart ...?

  #17  
Old September 6th 14, 07:16 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Posts: 6,374
Default Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.

On Saturday, September 6, 2014 2:12:12 PM UTC-4, wrote:
yes and no.....thin plated bearings...gray bearings go with worn/used hubs.



Grade 5 go with above average hubs or as new hubs...grade 5 runs new longer than gray bearings.



Grade 5's are in new Deore hubs ? or what grade is in there ? maybe there's a chart ...?


o o oooooo 0 o o o _X
  #18  
Old September 6th 14, 07:17 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,374
Default Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.

On Saturday, September 6, 2014 2:16:44 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Saturday, September 6, 2014 2:12:12 PM UTC-4, wrote:

yes and no.....thin plated bearings...gray bearings go with worn/used hubs.








Grade 5 go with above average hubs or as new hubs...grade 5 runs new longer than gray bearings.








Grade 5's are in new Deore hubs ? or what grade is in there ? maybe there's a chart ...?




o o oooooo 0 o o o _X


duh

OOOPS Grade 25 not 5

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bearings.html#balls

and off course

https://www.google.com/#q=what+grade...+in+Deore+hubs



  #19  
Old September 6th 14, 08:14 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.



wrote in message
...
yes and no.....thin plated bearings...gray bearings go with worn/used
hubs.

Grade 5 go with above average hubs or as new hubs...grade 5 runs new
longer than gray bearings.


The new ball bearings were very shiny when I put them in, and sort of grey
when I examined them a few days later to see why the hub hadn't stayed
adjusted for long.

All the shinyness had become little shiny flecks in the grease.

  #20  
Old September 6th 14, 10:11 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,374
Default Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.

On Saturday, September 6, 2014 3:14:53 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message

...

yes and no.....thin plated bearings...gray bearings go with worn/used


hubs.




Grade 5 go with above average hubs or as new hubs...grade 5 runs new


longer than gray bearings.




The new ball bearings were very shiny when I put them in, and sort of grey

when I examined them a few days later to see why the hub hadn't stayed

adjusted for long.



All the shinyness had become little shiny flecks in the grease.


cccccccccccccccccx

haven't seen that but my hubs aren't inspected at short run times. Use a looser assembly tightness, red Loctite one side n blue ;lock the other side suaully the drive side. Be very clean with paper towel thinner cleaning, 2x....followed by CHOH cleaning of the thinner residue. Let the assembly cure for 3-4 days in warmth/sunshine before using.

 




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