The real brushed finish of a Merlin ti-bike

Hi there,

I´m currently refurbishing my Merlin Extralight and I want to get that real brushed finish they have. I´ve tried everything such as a steel brush with medium tension steelwires.

I´ve tried the scotchbrite and a very fine steelwool which it´s definately not.

So, what on earth is it they´re using to achieve that finish, I´ve tried to contact them, but they don´t return my mails.

On 11/21/2016 3:20 PM, Jon Gustafson wrote:
Hi there,

I´m currently refurbishing my Merlin Extralight and I want to get that real brushed finish they have. I´ve tried everything such as a steel brush with medium tension steelwires.

I´ve tried the scotchbrite and a very fine steelwool which it´s definately not.

So, what on earth is it they´re using to achieve that finish, I´ve tried to contact them, but they don´t return my mails.

I don't know what they use. But have you tried a brass wire wheel?


--
- Frank Krygowski

Try sandpaper. All auto parts stores sell various grits of sandpaper made for metal. Not sure if sandpaper meant for wood works on metal or not. But maybe go to a woodworking store and see if their sandpaper works.

On 11/21/2016 5:12 PM, wrote:
Try sandpaper. All auto parts stores sell various grits of sandpaper made for metal. Not sure if sandpaper meant for wood works on metal or not. But maybe go to a woodworking store and see if their sandpaper works.


+1
Start with a relatively fine emery. The usual 60 grit will
leave deep scratches in your tubes. I'd try 300 cloth on the
bottom of the chainstays first to see what it looks like.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Monday, November 21, 2016 at 5:25:50 PM UTC-6, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/21/2016 5:12 PM, wrote:
Try sandpaper. All auto parts stores sell various grits of sandpaper made for metal. Not sure if sandpaper meant for wood works on metal or not. But maybe go to a woodworking store and see if their sandpaper works.


+1
Start with a relatively fine emery. The usual 60 grit will
leave deep scratches in your tubes. I'd try 300 cloth on the
bottom of the chainstays first to see what it looks like.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I might be assuming too much. But I assumed the guy would start with 320 or 400 grit paper. 600 or 800 even. 220 if he wanted a "rough" finish. 60 grit is for very rough sawn wood. I don't think even the roughest and most rusted metal would need 60 grit. The wheels on 6 inch stationary grinders are 60 grit.

On 11/22/2016 11:32 AM, wrote:
On Monday, November 21, 2016 at 5:25:50 PM UTC-6, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/21/2016 5:12 PM, wrote:
Try sandpaper. All auto parts stores sell various grits of sandpaper made for metal. Not sure if sandpaper meant for wood works on metal or not. But maybe go to a woodworking store and see if their sandpaper works.


+1
Start with a relatively fine emery. The usual 60 grit will
leave deep scratches in your tubes. I'd try 300 cloth on the
bottom of the chainstays first to see what it looks like.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I might be assuming too much. But I assumed the guy would start with 320 or 400 grit paper. 600 or 800 even. 220 if he wanted a "rough" finish. 60 grit is for very rough sawn wood. I don't think even the roughest and most rusted metal would need 60 grit. The wheels on 6 inch stationary grinders are 60 grit.


400 may well be better. I frankly don't know but we're
generally on the same path here. 60 grit emery is a
commodity, ubiquitous & cheap, because it's popular for
steel prep like this:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/mikipv2.jpg

The 60 grit texture works very well with common
primer/sealers but as we both noted it's too coarse for a Ti
finish.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 22/11/16 18:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/22/2016 11:32 AM, wrote:
On Monday, November 21, 2016 at 5:25:50 PM UTC-6, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/21/2016 5:12 PM, wrote:
Try sandpaper. All auto parts stores sell various grits of
sandpaper made for metal. Not sure if sandpaper meant for wood
works on metal or not. But maybe go to a woodworking store and see
if their sandpaper works.


+1
Start with a relatively fine emery. The usual 60 grit will
leave deep scratches in your tubes. I'd try 300 cloth on the
bottom of the chainstays first to see what it looks like.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I might be assuming too much. But I assumed the guy would start with
320 or 400 grit paper. 600 or 800 even. 220 if he wanted a "rough"
finish. 60 grit is for very rough sawn wood. I don't think even the
roughest and most rusted metal would need 60 grit. The wheels on 6
inch stationary grinders are 60 grit.


400 may well be better. I frankly don't know but we're generally on the
same path here. 60 grit emery is a commodity, ubiquitous & cheap,
because it's popular for steel prep like this:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/mikipv2.jpg

The 60 grit texture works very well with common primer/sealers but as we
both noted it's too coarse for a Ti finish.

Why would you not stat with a very fine grit, 100*, and work down? It
isn't like emery paper is expensive.

On Monday, November 21, 2016 at 12:20:50 PM UTC-8, Jon Gustafson wrote:
Hi there,

I´m currently refurbishing my Merlin Extralight and I want to get that real brushed finish they have. I´ve tried everything such as a steel brush with medium tension steelwires.

I´ve tried the scotchbrite and a very fine steelwool which it´s definately not.

Why? What happens with those? Are they not scratchy enough, or ???

On 11/22/2016 1:29 PM, Tosspot wrote:
On 22/11/16 18:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/22/2016 11:32 AM, wrote:
On Monday, November 21, 2016 at 5:25:50 PM UTC-6, AMuzi
wrote:
On 11/21/2016 5:12 PM, wrote:
Try sandpaper. All auto parts stores sell various
grits of
sandpaper made for metal. Not sure if sandpaper meant
for wood
works on metal or not. But maybe go to a woodworking
store and see
if their sandpaper works.


+1
Start with a relatively fine emery. The usual 60 grit will
leave deep scratches in your tubes. I'd try 300 cloth on
the
bottom of the chainstays first to see what it looks like.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I might be assuming too much. But I assumed the guy
would start with
320 or 400 grit paper. 600 or 800 even. 220 if he
wanted a "rough"
finish. 60 grit is for very rough sawn wood. I don't
think even the
roughest and most rusted metal would need 60 grit. The
wheels on 6
inch stationary grinders are 60 grit.


400 may well be better. I frankly don't know but we're
generally on the
same path here. 60 grit emery is a commodity, ubiquitous
& cheap,
because it's popular for steel prep like this:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/mikipv2.jpg

The 60 grit texture works very well with common
primer/sealers but as we
both noted it's too coarse for a Ti finish.

Why would you not stat with a very fine grit, 100*, and work
down? It isn't like emery paper is expensive.



Yes I think we all agree on the concept but I for one think
100 grit on titanium will leave some deep and ugly sand
scratches. Mr Seaton's approach (start with 400) made more
sense to me.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Frank Krygowski considered Mon, 21 Nov 2016
16:56:02 -0500 the perfect time to write:

On 11/21/2016 3:20 PM, Jon Gustafson wrote:
Hi there,

I´m currently refurbishing my Merlin Extralight and I want to get that real brushed finish they have. I´ve tried everything such as a steel brush with medium tension steelwires.

I´ve tried the scotchbrite and a very fine steelwool which it´s definately not.

So, what on earth is it they´re using to achieve that finish, I´ve tried to contact them, but they don´t return my mails.

I don't know what they use. But have you tried a brass wire wheel?

The range of tooling used for such finishes is almost unlimited.
DeLorien used a special "flapper" wheel with some abrasive flaps among
mostly cotton for the brushed finish on their stainless steel cars.
Apparently, achieving the correct balance of "brush" and "polish" in
the finish is almost impossible without access to identical wheels,
and the skills to use the right speed and pressure to match the
original.