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Why are my handlebars vibrating?
Subject basically says it all.
About a week ago, my handlebars suddenly started vibrating when riding hands-free. This happened overnight. Rode Mon, no problem. Tue, vibration. Speed seems to be irrelevant. I *can* ride hands-off without vibration if I keep the ride absolutely smooth but as soon as I pedal or hit the slightest bump, it starts. I'm strongly considering replacing the fork for other reasons, would that be likely to fix this too? Thanks, Mark -- Remove both wrongs to make the email address right. |
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Mark Mitchell wrote in news:k9z8d.106103
: About a week ago, my handlebars suddenly started vibrating when riding hands-free. This happened overnight. Rode Mon, no problem. Tue, vibration. Speed seems to be irrelevant. Is your headset loose? |
#3
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On 2004-10-05, Ken wrote:
Mark Mitchell wrote in news:k9z8d.106103 : About a week ago, my handlebars suddenly started vibrating when riding hands-free. This happened overnight. Rode Mon, no problem. Tue, vibration. Speed seems to be irrelevant. Is your headset loose? I don't think so. I'd thought of that, tested by holding the front wheel between my legs, locking the front brake and wiggling forward and back, looking for play. Nothing. If that's not the way to be sure, then I don't know. Mark -- Remove both wrongs to make the email address right. |
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Mark Mitchell writes:
About a week ago, my handlebars suddenly started vibrating when riding hands-free. This happened overnight. Rode Mon, no problem. Tue, vibration. Speed seems to be irrelevant. I *can* ride hands-off without vibration if I keep the ride absolutely smooth but as soon as I pedal or hit the slightest bump, it starts. If I understand your description, this is shimmy, an oscillation of the front wheel at about shivering frequency. How long have you ridden this bicycle in a similar fashion with no shimmy? I'm strongly considering replacing the fork for other reasons, would that be likely to fix this too? How tall are you? The distance between saddle, pedals, and front wheel ground contact have an effect on incidence of shimmy. Subject: 8h.5 Shimmy or Speed Wobble From: Jobst Brandt Date: Mon, 25 June 2004 14:13:14 PDT Shimmy, a spontaneous steering oscillation of the front wheel, usually occurs at a predictable speed when riding no-hands. The likelihood of shimmy is greatest when the only rider-to-bicycle contact is at the saddle and pedals. This position gives the least damping by hands, arms, and legs. When shimmy occurs on descents, with hands on the bars, it is highly disconcerting because the most common rider response, of gripping the bars firmly, only increases it. Shimmy is not related to frame alignment or loose bearings, as is often claimed. Shimmy results from dynamics of front wheel rotation, mass of the handlebars, elasticity of the frame, and where the rider contacts the bicycle. Both perfectly aligned bicycles and ones with wheels out of plane to one another shimmy nearly equally well. It is as likely with properly adjusted bearings as loose ones. The idea that shimmy is related to bearing adjustment or alignment has been established by repetition. Bicycle shimmy is the lateral oscillation of the head tube about the road contact point of the front wheel and depends largely on frame geometry and the elasticity of the top and down tubes. It is driven by gyroscopic forces of the front wheel, making it largely speed dependent. It cannot be fixed by adjustments because it is inherent to the geometry and elasticity of the bicycle frame. The longer the frame and the higher the saddle, the greater the tendency to shimmy, other things being equal. Weight distribution also has no effect on shimmy although where that weight contacts the frame does. Bicycle shimmy is unchanged when riding no-hands, whether leaning forward or Shimmy requires a spring and a mass about which to oscillate and these are furnished by the frame and seated rider. Unloading the saddle (without standing up) will stop shimmy. Pedaling or rough road will also reduce the tendency to shimmy. In contrast, coasting no-hands downhill on a smooth road at more than 20mph with the cranks vertical seems to be the most shimmy prone condition. When coasting no-hands, laying one leg against the top tube is the most common way to inhibit shimmy and also one of the most common ways to coast no-hands. Compliant tread of knobby tires usually have sufficient squirming damping to suppress shimmy. Weight of the handlebar and its extension from of the steering axis also affects shimmy. Shimmy is caused by the gyroscopic force of the front wheel whose tilt is roughly at right angles to the steering axis, making the wheel steer to the left when it leans to the left. This steering action twists the toptube and downtube, storing energy that both limits travel and causes a return swing. Trail (caster) of the fork acts on the wheel to limit these excursions and return them toward center. Shimmy that concerns riders the most occurs with hands firmly on the bars and it is rider generated by muscular effect whose natural response is the same as the shimmy frequency, about that of Human shivering. Descending in cold weather can be difficult for this reason. The rider's "death grip" only enhances the incidence of shimmy in this situation. Loosely holding the bars between thumb and forefinger is a way of avoiding shimmy when cold. ------------------------------ Jobst Brandt |
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#6
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This exact problem happend to me. I found jobst brant explanation to
be precise. My solution was new bike frame. My problem seemed to get worse after a couple of weeks. Apparently this happens more frequently to larger riders. Good luck. |
#8
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Mark Mitchell writes:
I'm 5'6" on a 42cm Trek 6000. That is not in the range where shimmy becomes more pronounced. With my height, over 6' 5" all the bicycles I have owned have shimmied reliably if I let them, although they had also coasted (hands on stem) stably at up to 60mph. That was my reason for asking. The bike is basically stock. I've added a rear rack, cheap bike computer, front and rear lights and rear fender. The onset of the shimmy was not associated with any parts changes on the bike. The load on the rack doesn't seem to be associated in any way with the shimmy. I just wondered whether there was any event or change that might influence the bicycle's stability. On reading your article, the only thing that jumps out at me as relevant is cold. Is it possible that colder weather can change the elasticity of the frame in such a way as to allow a shimmy below 40-50 and not above. Metals do not change elasticity in that range and what they do is so small as to be immaterial to frame elasticity. For metals -30F is cold. Avoid riding in such weather for your own well being. Frost bite is a permanent injury. I noticed riding home today in 60-65 degree weather that it had a barely perceptible tendency to wiggle. Hope that's not the case, I'd planned on riding this bike through as much of a MN winter as possible. Not to worry, it is the riders response that can enhance shimmy in cold weather, not that of the bicycle. The way you describe it, I can't imagine what causes your bicycle to shimmy now and not previously. Jobst Brandt |
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