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Nexus brake woes
I have a bike with a 7 speed nexus gear hub with the roller brake.
With conventional drop bar aero brake levers, there isn't enough cable travel to achieve much braking from the roller brake - I can easily pull the lever to the bar, giving a less than impressive amount of braking, even when having the brake cable tightened as much as possible without having the brake drag when not engaged. Short of switching to a rim brake, does anyone have a good / easy / affordable fix for this situation? At the moment I am just living with it, as the front brake is the more important one, but I would prefer to have a decent rear brake, even if only as a backup. Later, Mark |
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#4
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Sheldon Brown wrote:
wrote: I have a bike with a 7 speed nexus gear hub with the roller brake. With conventional drop bar aero brake levers, there isn't enough cable travel to achieve much braking from the roller brake - I can easily pull the lever to the bar, giving a less than impressive amount of braking, even when having the brake cable tightened as much as possible without having the brake drag when not engaged. Right. These things are made for long-travel brake levers. The only drop bar lever that's truly suitable would be a Dia Compe 287V. The proper dual-position lever for flat bars is always set in the position for cantis, not V-brakes, when using the roller brake: http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/media/cy...9830551923.pdf Therefore a drop bar lever that works with cantis, like the RSX, is suitable. Having said that, ISTR that the 287V cable pull is really somewhere between a canti and a V-brake, so it should also be OK and will give the firmer feel the OP wants. I don't like 287Vs personally - they're an ugly hack of a standard 287, with a lot of friction. They're the only game in town for that particular application though :-( |
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Zog The Undeniable wrote:
These brakes do have a long travel but they have about the same cable pull as modern cantilevers. IME they firm up when the bike is moving and testing them while stationary is misleading. What is the exact model of brake lever you're using? Something like RSX should be OK, but I don't know about the race models. To be honest, the roller brake didn't work that well with the original brake lever, which was a generic mountain bike cantilever lever. It didn't seem to have enough cable travel either, but it was a bit better than it is now. I am currently using a pair of new Shimano 300EX (ie Exage) levers. The front brake is a Tektro Oryx cantilever, which works superbly, especially with Kool Stop salmon brake pads. My testing has been on the road, as I ride this bike as a commuter every day. Later, Mark |
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wrote:
I have a bike with a 7 speed nexus gear hub with the roller brake. With conventional drop bar aero brake levers, there isn't enough cable travel to achieve much braking from the roller brake - I can easily pull the lever to the bar, giving a less than impressive amount of braking, even when having the brake cable tightened as much as possible without having the brake drag when not engaged. I replied: Right. These things are made for long-travel brake levers. The only drop bar lever that's truly suitable would be a Dia Compe 287V. Zog The Undeniable wrote: The proper dual-position lever for flat bars is always set in the position for cantis, not V-brakes, when using the roller brake: http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/media/cy...9830551923.pdf That is the Official Party Line, but hasn't been my experience nor that of . The lever illustrated in that .pdf is not what and I believe it pulls rather more cable, even in the "C.R." setting than his drop bar lever. Therefore a drop bar lever that works with cantis, like the RSX, is suitable. All drop bar levers work with cantis, except the 287V. Having said that, ISTR that the 287V cable pull is really somewhere between a canti and a V-brake, so it should also be OK and will give the firmer feel the OP wants. Right, that's why I recommended it. I don't like 287Vs personally - they're an ugly hack of a standard 287, with a lot of friction. They're the only game in town for that particular application though :-( I'm in agreement there. I do have 287Vs on one of my bikes, and found they work a lot better if you _don't_ run the cables under the handlebar tape. This eliminates the worst bend in their cable run, right where they exit the internal noodle. See: http://sheldonbrown.org/thorn/pages/raven01.htm Sheldon "Don't Believe Everything You Read" Brown +--------------------------------+ | Happy Reynolds Day! (5/31) | +--------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
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#9
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Sheldon Brown wrote:
Zog The Undeniable wrote: I don't like 287Vs personally - they're an ugly hack of a standard 287, with a lot of friction. They're the only game in town for that particular application though :-( I'm in agreement there. I do have 287Vs on one of my bikes, and found they work a lot better if you _don't_ run the cables under the handlebar tape. This eliminates the worst bend in their cable run, right where they exit the internal noodle. See: http://sheldonbrown.org/thorn/pages/raven01.htm Gagh! /Now/ he tells me... My Romany has Vs and 287Vs and I was convinced for a while that I been sold standard 287s, on account of the general crapness of the brakes. Then I remembered they'd come with noodles with built-in cable adjusters... I resorted to putting a Travel Agent in as well, and carefree braking is now possible. -- Dave Larrington - http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/ The System is well pleased with this Unit's performance, which falls within expected parameters. |
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Sheldon Brown wrote:
Right. These things are made for long-travel brake levers. The only drop bar lever that's truly suitable would be a Dia Compe 287V. That is what I figured. Thanks for the confirmation. Quality Bicycle Products makes a device called a "Travel Agent" that would let it work with your current levers by changing the cable pull. See: http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.c...9&SKU=3DBR0330 I have used the 90 version of the "Travel Agent" for a linear pull brake with conventional levers, and wasn't too thilled with it - a bit draggy, and a pain (for me, at least) to set up. I own three Nexus-geared bikes (1 7s-speed, 2 8-speed.) I left the Rollerbrakes off of them partly because of this, partly because the Rollerbrakes aren't terribly good brakes, and partly because the Rollerbrakes weigh a pound and a quarter, WAY more than a decent caliper. If I remove the roller brake, is there some type of gaping hole on the hub that needs to be covered up? Any suggestions for a good rim brake with about 70mm of reach? It seems like the options a 1) BMX sidepull. Some reports in this newsgroup indicate these may be on the flexiible side. Which of these, if any, are recommended? 2) U-brake "plate" with a U-Brake. The "plate" mounts to the brake bridge and has posts for mounting a U-Brake. Would this be any better that the BMX style sidepulls? 3) An old centerpull. I don't want to go here, as routing the cable is somewhat problematic due to the need for a cable hanger. Thanks in advance, Mark Muller |
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