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rear derailleur adjustment
OK, Im sure this has been asked (or similar) a zillion times but searchig hasnt fixed me up I hav recently changed cassettes and in the process my indexing at the rear has gone awol. I have set the H+Lscrews as accurately as i can, by my guesstimates and the shifting is generally 'OK' but on the inner/larger cogs its innacurate. I can shift up onto the largest one no probs, but going back to the smaller ones it seems to need more left-to-right movement of the derailleur. ie from 26-to-23 its not going far enuff to sit on the 23 cleanly ,etc. this applies down to the 21 (or 19. i cant remember accurately...) Im wondering if my Lscrew is allowing the inside (ie big cog) too much tolerance??? fanx in advance -- flyingdutch |
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#2
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flyingdutch wrote:
OK, Im sure this has been asked (or similar) a zillion times but searchig hasnt fixed me up I hav recently changed cassettes and in the process my indexing at the rear has gone awol. I have set the H+Lscrews as accurately as i can, by my guesstimates and the shifting is generally 'OK' but on the inner/larger cogs its innacurate. I can shift up onto the largest one no probs, but going back to the smaller ones it seems to need more left-to-right movement of the derailleur. ie from 26-to-23 its not going far enuff to sit on the 23 cleanly ,etc. this applies down to the 21 (or 19. i cant remember accurately...) Im wondering if my Lscrew is allowing the inside (ie big cog) too much tolerance??? Those screws only set the limits of travel. If the "L" screw is too tight, the only result will be difficulty shifting onto the biggest sprocket. If it's too loose, the chain might overshoot and the derailer go into the spokes. Difficulty shifting to smaller sprockets is usually caused by cable friction, or possibly by incorrect indexing adjustment (that's the adjusting barrel where the cable housing contacts the rear derailer.) For more detailed instructions, see: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment Sheldon "http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment" Brown +-----------------------------------------+ | He not busy being born is busy dying. | | -Bob Dylan | +-----------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
#3
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Sheldon Brown Wrote: Those screws only set the limits of travel. If the "L" screw is too tight, the only result will be difficulty shifting onto the biggest sprocket. If it's too loose, the chain might overshoot and the derailer go into the spokes. suspected as much and from what I had read it did seem that way but just wanted confirmation. Neveer thought I would get a reply from someone as noble as yerself tho :-) Sheldon Brown Wrote: Difficulty shifting to smaller sprockets is usually caused by cable friction, or possibly by incorrect indexing adjustment (that's the adjusting barrel where the cable housing contacts the rear derailer.) For more detailed instructions, see: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment Sheldon "http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment" Brown +-----------------------------------------+ | He not busy being born is busy dying. | | -Bob Dylan | +-----------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com cheers for that. Oh well, more shed time for me. not that one needs an excuse, mind -- flyingdutch |
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flyingdutch wrote:
OK, Im sure this has been asked (or similar) a zillion times but searchig hasnt fixed me up I hav recently changed cassettes and in the process my indexing at the rear has gone awol. I have set the H+Lscrews as accurately as i can, by my guesstimates and the shifting is generally 'OK' but on the inner/larger cogs its innacurate. I can shift up onto the largest one no probs, but going back to the smaller ones it seems to need more left-to-right movement of the derailleur. ie from 26-to-23 its not going far enuff to sit on the 23 cleanly ,etc. this applies down to the 21 (or 19. i cant remember accurately...) Im wondering if my Lscrew is allowing the inside (ie big cog) too much tolerance??? fanx in advance It's not yet spring but a good time to review basic gear adjustments. Take a peek at Sheldon Brown's excellent pages or any number of other resources. What you want to do is check the _system_ rather than turn a screw. That's a major turning point here in the development of a new mechanic - and we've trained our fair share over the years. A couple of minutes' observation saves time and frustration. Don't pick up that screwdriver yet. Check your chain wear. Is it the chain sticky with crud? Lubricated? Does the hub bearing have excessive play? Are the cassette cogs loose on the cassette body? Undo the cable (Shift rear to low. Stop pedaling. Return the lever to high. Slip a casing out of its stop). Pedal and let the changer return to high gear. (unscrew the H screw if it doesn't go) Get your head behind the changer and look at the cage. Is it roughly parallel to the chainrings? Are there cement marks on the outside edges of the changer? Do the pivot springs both return snappily? Will the body itself return easily to high gear? Check that by shifting with your hand. Place the first two fingers of your left hand behind the adjuster. Press the right side of the nameplate with your thumb while pedaling with your right hand. Let go and keep pedaling. It should return smartly to high gear. Now do that firmly for low gear. Make sure the changer doesn't sail off beyond low gear into the spokes. Slide the casing along the wire. Is is free? Is the end ferrule kinked? Crud on the BB guide? For integrated levers, does the wire move easily in the top casing? Pull the wire with one hand while shifting with the other. For any casing, pull the wire out, wipe any crud, look for rust or kinks. Lubricate the wire where it will go in casing. (We use Rock-N-Roll for nicer modern teflon lined cables, oil on Huffys). My point is that the vagaries of actually using your bike make small degradations that add up. Once in a while you ought to review the whole system before turning that screw. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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flyingdutch wrote:
OK, Im sure this has been asked (or similar) a zillion times but searchig hasnt fixed me up I hav recently changed cassettes and in the process my indexing at the rear has gone awol. I have set the H+Lscrews as accurately as i can, by my guesstimates and the shifting is generally 'OK' but on the inner/larger cogs its innacurate. I can shift up onto the largest one no probs, but going back to the smaller ones it seems to need more left-to-right movement of the derailleur. ie from 26-to-23 its not going far enuff to sit on the 23 cleanly ,etc. this applies down to the 21 (or 19. i cant remember accurately...) Im wondering if my Lscrew is allowing the inside (ie big cog) too much tolerance??? fanx in advance -- flyingdutch There's great articles on adjusting derailleurs and everything else bike related at Park Tool's website: http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml Just click on the part of the bike you're interested in and it will take you to the relevant articles. This site has helped me where other sources of information have failed, including repair books that I've bought. Good luck! -tom |
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