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#11
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bottom bracket opener with "disc" (?) too far in
David Scheidt writes:
I suggest using a bolt or piece of threaded rod as described on the bottom of he http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html A bolt or rod? How will it grab the lockring? I'm thinking, if it isn't possible to grab the lockring "in parallel" (which would be the optimal thing to do), and you can't knock it loose from a tight angle with a screwdriver and hammer, I suppose what remains is some kind of fork (the ones for eating) perpendicular to the lockring (but centered) which would grab it and then rotate it. It would have to be more thick than a fork, and grab the lockring with exact width (precision) otherwise it wouldn't rotate. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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#12
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bottom bracket opener with "disc" (?) too far in
David Scheidt writes:
Did you look look at the picture? I did but I didn't understand. Anyway I found a photo on the web! This is what it looks like, only the outer part seems to be damaged just a bit. On this photo, the lockring is not as much on the inside as mine, so here it is 50/50 if my tool would work tho I wouldn't swallow poison it would. http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/bb.jpg -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#13
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bottom bracket opener with "disc" (?) too far in
On Sunday, May 31, 2015 at 4:19:44 PM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
AMuzi writes: Typical assembly showing left side cup with lockring: http://www.yellowjersey.org/26wwbb.jpg It does look like that only the other way around: the cone is big, and the lock ring is small. If it looked like that, I think my tool would work. But now the lockring is inside, covered by the cup, i.e. too much to the right toward the chainwheel on the other side, so I can't get a grip. (the right side cup is on the right in that photo) Best lockring tool: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/VAR16.JPG Indeed, that looks great but I don't think that would work either as there is no room to get that kind of grip on the inside. You have one of these, yes? http://www.yellowjersey.org/HKC205.JPG Exactly. Use your hooked wrench similarly to the Var #16 although it won't be as easy to use. Once apart or at least slack oil the threads which will help somewhat. I will, but I don't think the lockring is that stuck. If only I'd get a grip I don't think getting it loose would be a problem. By the way this is a very common BB, perhaps in particular for one-piece cranks and actually every second or third of have examined has its lockring too far in for this tool to work. Do you have an Ashtabula crank? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVWBEI1rvjk If so, you should be able to remove the notched cone with your hands. Otherwise, you'll need a pin spanner or something like it. -- Jay Beattie. |
#14
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bottom bracket opener with "disc" (?) too far in
jbeattie writes:
Do you have an Ashtabula crank? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVWBEI1rvjk If so, you should be able to remove the notched cone with your hands. Otherwise, you'll need a pin spanner or something like it. OK, case closed. It is an Ashtabula crank and a pin spanner is what I need. I didn't know those existed but looking at pictures from Google Images I realize that's exactly the thing that will work. Thank you and everyone else. Feel free to continue the discussion, of course. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#15
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bottom bracket opener with "disc" (?) too far in
On Sunday, May 31, 2015 at 8:13:54 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
jbeattie writes: Do you have an Ashtabula crank? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVWBEI1rvjk If so, you should be able to remove the notched cone with your hands. Otherwise, you'll need a pin spanner or something like it. OK, case closed. It is an Ashtabula crank and a pin spanner is what I need. I didn't know those existed but looking at pictures from Google Images I realize that's exactly the thing that will work. Thank you and everyone else. Feel free to continue the discussion, of course. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 See now why knowing proper bicycle terminology is a good thing? Had you said in your original post that you have an Ashabula crank, people could have immediately given you the right advice. Cheers |
#16
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bottom bracket opener with "disc" (?) too far in
Sir Ridesalot writes:
See now why knowing proper bicycle terminology is a good thing? I see that but I don't see that "now", proof of which I was the one who brought it up in this threads first post. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#17
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bottom bracket opener with "disc" (?) too far in
On Sunday, May 31, 2015 at 4:50:43 PM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
David Scheidt writes: Did you look look at the picture? I did but I didn't understand. Anyway I found a photo on the web! This is what it looks like, only the outer part seems to be damaged just a bit. On this photo, the lockring is not as much on the inside as mine, so here it is 50/50 if my tool would work tho I wouldn't swallow poison it would. http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/bb.jpg -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Yup, your wrench is not going to work. You need to whack it with a screw driver or drift or chisel -- Muzi would know. I've never worked on that kind of BB. -- Jay Beattie. |
#18
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bottom bracket opener with "disc" (?) too far in
jbeattie writes:
Yup, your wrench is not going to work. You need to whack it with a screw driver or drift or chisel -- Muzi would know. I've never worked on that kind of BB. Well, simple tools are not expensive nowadays so I think I can afford a pin spanner especially since those cranks are very common -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#19
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bottom bracket opener with "disc" (?) too far in
On Mon, 01 Jun 2015 01:56:16 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote: David Scheidt writes: Did you look look at the picture? I did but I didn't understand. Anyway I found a photo on the web! This is what it looks like, only the outer part seems to be damaged just a bit. On this photo, the lockring is not as much on the inside as mine, so here it is 50/50 if my tool would work tho I wouldn't swallow poison it would. http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/bb.jpg The bike seems to be upside down but it appears to be the L.H. side of the B.B. which is, I believe the adjustable side. If so you first loosen the lock ring, which is usually the outer ring, in order to remove the inner adjustable cone, don't you? See: http://www.madegood.org/bikes/repair...ottom-bracket/ -- cheers, John B. |
#20
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bottom bracket opener with "disc" (?) too far in
On 5/31/2015 6:25 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
AMuzi writes: Typical assembly showing left side cup with lockring: http://www.yellowjersey.org/26wwbb.jpg It does look like that only the other way around: the cone is big, and the lock ring is small. If it looked like that, I think my tool would work. But now the lockring is inside, covered by the cup, i.e. too much to the right toward the chainwheel on the other side, so I can't get a grip. (the right side cup is on the right in that photo) Best lockring tool: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/VAR16.JPG Indeed, that looks great but I don't think that would work either as there is no room to get that kind of grip on the inside. You have one of these, yes? http://www.yellowjersey.org/HKC205.JPG Exactly. Use your hooked wrench similarly to the Var #16 although it won't be as easy to use. Once apart or at least slack oil the threads which will help somewhat. I will, but I don't think the lockring is that stuck. If only I'd get a grip I don't think getting it loose would be a problem. By the way this is a very common BB, perhaps in particular for one-piece cranks and actually every second or third of have examined has its lockring too far in for this tool to work. Ahh, jargon rears its ugly rear. This, right? http://www.yellowjersey.org/ashta.jpg Use any big wrench on the locknut. It's reverse threaded. Once loose, the cone usually turns with fingertips or if not any implement such as a screwdriver. Again, oil treads which can be very helpful. To remove this crank form the bicycle you will need to remove the left side pedal first. That's much easier if done before the bearing assembly is loose. p.s. Didn't you write about this a few months ago? -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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