bottom bracket opener with "disc" (?) too far in

On 5/31/2015 6:56 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
David Scheidt writes:

Did you look look at the picture?

I did but I didn't understand.

Anyway I found a photo on the web! This is what it
looks like, only the outer part seems to be damaged
just a bit.

On this photo, the lockring is not as much on the
inside as mine, so here it is 50/50 if my tool would
work tho I wouldn't swallow poison it would.

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/bb.jpg


That's a European variant of the USA OPC.
Yes, use your hooked wrench on the locknut. It's reverse
threaded.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

John B. writes:

The bike seems to be upside down but it appears to
be the L.H. side of the B.B. which is, I believe the
adjustable side. If so you first loosen the lock
ring, which is usually the outer ring, in order to
remove the inner adjustable cone, don't you?

100% the way I understand it.

However I have been unable to get a grip on the
(outer) look ring with the "hook" tool as it is too
far in, so the outer ring will block the "hook" from
getting there.

This is often the case! Sometimes it is grippable with
the hook but often not so for this exact reason.
I don't know if that is an error in construction or
wear and tear but I don't think so (either) because it
makes sense the lock ring must be right next to the
outer ring, i.e. screwed in as far as to make
solid contact.

I didn't try the pin wrench which was suggested but
I'll buy one ASAP and then I'll try it. It makes sense
looking at the BB. The "hook" tool makes sense looking
only at the lock ring in isolation, but as it is on
many those bikes it won't get there by far.

When I get the pin wrench I'll report back.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

AMuzi writes:

Ahh, jargon rears its ugly rear. This, right?
http://www.yellowjersey.org/ashta.jpg

It is a OPC but I can't say if it is exactly
like that.

Use any big wrench on the locknut. It's reverse
threaded. Once loose, the cone usually turns with
fingertips or if not any implement such as
a screwdriver. Again, oil treads which can be
very helpful.

OK, it is not that because any big wrench won't work
what I can see (?). I think the pin wrench will work
because the lock ring has two holes and it is loose in
the sense nothing blocks it if one could just get
a grip and rotate it out.

p.s. Didn't you write about this a few months ago?

I've done this two times, once on a REX and once on
a Crescent. Those times I grabbed the outer ring with
a pipe wrench and used the angled screwdriver/hammer
approach to knock the lock ring loose. Apart from
being obviously the wrong way this made both rings
deformed/notchy, so this time I wanted to do it right.
But the "hook" tool cannot do it what I can see.

The problem back then was how to remove the crank once
the L.H. side is open. Some people got irritated
because this is supposedly easy. But I didn't succeed
on either. On the REX, the arm won't even enter the
shell. On the Crescent, the arm will enter it but it
won't go all the way out on the other side.

So I didn't solve that problem but I thought if I can
do it this time perhaps it will become apparent what
is different from them bikes.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

AMuzi writes:

That's a European variant of the USA OPC.

OK!

Yes, use your hooked wrench on the locknut.
It's reverse threaded.

Again, it is too far inside. It is always like that.
Or very often at least. The outer ring blocks the tool
from entering from the side. I need to enter the
lockring from the front. The tool itself can then be
"sideways".

I'll get that pin wrench tomorrow and have a report
how that works

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573