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seized stem, ammonia?
Hello All,
I recently bought an old Peugeot road bike for next to nothing with the hopes of cleaning it up and riding it around town. All was going smoothly until I tried to raise the handlebars. Yes, the aluminum stem is seized. I read around a bit and opted for the Sheldon Brown method: I bought some ammonia and let it soak in that for 24+ hours. Still nothing. I've read a few of the posts in this group about stem problems and I'm really trying to avoid the cut off, drill out option that some favor. So, is it possible that it needs to soak in ammonia longer or is there something else people have had good luck with? I know it's only an old Peugeot and that eventually I will want something better, but dammit, this one's got nice lugs, and it's yellow! Thanks a bunch. Bryan |
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#2
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seized stem, ammonia?
On 20 Jun 2005 17:13:10 -0700, theolddirty wrote:
Hello All, I recently bought an old Peugeot road bike for next to nothing with the hopes of cleaning it up and riding it around town. All was going smoothly until I tried to raise the handlebars. Yes, the aluminum stem is seized. I read around a bit and opted for the Sheldon Brown method: I bought some ammonia and let it soak in that for 24+ hours. Still nothing. I've read a few of the posts in this group about stem problems and I'm really trying to avoid the cut off, drill out option that some favor. So, is it possible that it needs to soak in ammonia longer or is there something else people have had good luck with? I know it's only an old Peugeot and that eventually I will want something better, but dammit, this one's got nice lugs, and it's yellow! Thanks a bunch. Bryan I had a aluminum seat post stuck in a steel seat tube. The post had a wedge like a stem, the seat tube didn't have a pinch bolt. I wrapped the seat tube with some towels and poured VERY HOT water on the the towels. The towels help retain the heat on the seat tube. I then poured liquid nitrogen onto the seat post. Worked like a charm!! Broke free but still felt "sludgy" inside. I could adjust it though. Since you probably don't have access to LN, try circuit board chiller or if you invert a can of compressed air (used for blowing out keyboards and such), the "air" comes out very cold. -- Skuke Reverse the domain name to send email |
#3
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seized stem, ammonia?
"skuke" wrote: (clip) Since you probably don't have access to LN, try circuit board chiller or if you invert a can of compressed air (used for blowing out keyboards and such), the "air" comes out very cold. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Another alternative is a CO2 extinguisher--remove the horn and stick the tube down into (or onto) the seatpost. It will form flakes of dry ice (and a lot of fog.) |
#5
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seized stem, ammonia?
theolddirty wrote: Hello All, I recently bought an old Peugeot road bike for next to nothing with the hopes of cleaning it up and riding it around town. All was going smoothly until I tried to raise the handlebars. Yes, the aluminum stem is seized. I read around a bit and opted for the Sheldon Brown method: I bought some ammonia and let it soak in that for 24+ hours. Still nothing. Bryan It may not be seized but stuck. Old French bikes used a 22.0mm stem rather than a 22.2mm stem and many a French bike has had a 22.2 strem jammed into the steerer and it will not come out without cutting or boring. Measure and see. Good luck. Phil Brown |
#6
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seized stem, ammonia?
soak-tap hard once(downward**)-soak-torch-torch und freeze-
the soak deal is frozen parts need soaking under pressure-immersion-or downflow via gravity if your on this planet. but to get the penetrant into the area one needs to brush the seam cleam, cut the rust dirt or oxide out with a utility razor tip-then get some PC Blaster on it. But tipping the head pipe into a pail of kerosene and letting it soak for severa;l days... but why not torch lightly allowing just only the outside pipe to expand then pluinge into the pail. if this is done several times over two-three weeks it will coma loose you in some kinda rush? torch and freeze is cool. ahhhhh! try forming (do not hold with fingers or stick it up your nose) the dry ice into a tube shape so the stuff slides right in after torching. creeek! klang **legend has it that tapping twice reseats your problem which YOU probabbbly caused by trying to force the gizmo out over all those extra O2 molecules |
#7
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seized stem, ammonia?
Thanks Jobst, although this doesn't really answer the question, which
is "How long should I let the stem soak in the ammonia." I did a fair amount of searching through the group before I posted and was aware that the cut off/drill out method was the one you favor. I'm not considering that method at the moment and wanted to see if others had had any luck with the ammonia method. Thanks Jobst! Bryan |
#8
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seized stem, ammonia?
Brayan ... writes:
Thanks Jobst, although this doesn't really answer the question, which is "How long should I let the stem soak in the ammonia." I don't believe the ammonia method works mainly because the volume of ammonia that can contact the offending oxide is minuscule and acting on the edge of a long thin film. Chemically I am not aware of what the products of this reaction are supposed to be but I have not heard of a credible success story. All the ones of which I heard of were tight stems that had not yet solidified. I did a fair amount of searching through the group before I posted and was aware that the cut off/drill out method was the one you favor. I'm not considering that method at the moment and wanted to see if others had had any luck with the ammonia method. As I have mentioned, stainless steel swimming pool ladders have been made with polished spherical aluminum plugs at the projecting ends. In time, swimming pool water entering the interface corrodes the aluminum to the extent that the steel tubing is expanded close to a quarter inch. Once the stem is solidly cemented, I believe you have no other option but the hack saw. Local frame builders and bicycle shops will support that scenario. |
#9
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seized stem, ammonia?
theolddirty wrote:
Hello All, I recently bought an old Peugeot road bike for next to nothing with the hopes of cleaning it up and riding it around town. All was going smoothly until I tried to raise the handlebars. Yes, the aluminum stem is seized. I read around a bit and opted for the Sheldon Brown method: I bought some ammonia and let it soak in that for 24+ hours. Still nothing. I've read a few of the posts in this group about stem problems and I'm really trying to avoid the cut off, drill out option that some favor. So, is it possible that it needs to soak in ammonia longer or is there something else people have had good luck with? I know it's only an old Peugeot and that eventually I will want something better, but dammit, this one's got nice lugs, and it's yellow! Threaded stem? Cut it off at the top headset nut, remove forks, replace with $50 carbon forks from eBay and threadless headset/stem. Be happy. |
#10
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seized stem, ammonia?
Zog The Undeniable wrote: Threaded stem? Cut it off at the top headset nut, remove forks, replace with $50 carbon forks from eBay and threadless headset/stem. Be happy. Once you decide to go this route you can try putting the forks in a vice with blocks of wood to protect them and then try to turn the stump of the stem with a big pipe wrench, if you have one. Might not work but nothing to lose at that point. |
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