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Need more advice on getting a bike
I greatly appreciate all the advice I've been given here, and it's
helped alot. I went to an LBS last weekend, and now I have a few more questions. To recap, I am looking for a mountain bike with a more upright seating position. My idea is to go exclusively offroad. At this point, I won't worry about attaching racks to it for camping gear. At the LBS, they recommended a bike made by Giant, saying they were a reputable bike maker ala Raleigh or Schwinn. They recommended a "comfort bike," which apparently is a mountain bike that has higher, adjustable handles, allowing a more upright position. They'd have to put tougher tires on it. It has front shocks and a shock under the saddle, but no rear shocks. He said aluminum would be better for a big guy like myself (240 lbs), because steel tends to flex, and aluminum would better withstand my weight over rough terrain. The bike is about $300. For an additional $200, I can get a similar bike that has rear shocks. According to the salesman, this would make the riding easier and safer. He said that an inexperienced rider with rear shocks can keep up with an experienced rider with a hardtail bike, because the hardtail rider has to position his bike more carefully. I wanted to check this information with you all. Specifically: 1. Is a "comfort bike" really a modified mountain bike, or more like a road bike? 2. Is Giant a reputable manufacturer? 3. Are there better brands for the same money, or equivalent brands for less money? 4. Is aluminum really the better material for a big guy who will go offroad? 5. For level riding at safe speeds, is there a benefit to having rear shocks? Do they cause any problems, like difficulty in climbing hills? Again, thank you kindly for your responses. Greg |
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#2
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Greg, I am a bicycle master mechanic. I have been riding mountain bikes
seriously since 97'. This is what I can tell you: Do not get a comfort bike for mountain riding. First of all, the frame geometry (the angles on the frame relative to each other) is all wrong for mountain biking. It would make it hard for you to shift weight from the front to the back wheels, which is crucial for bike traction control. Also, the suspension seat post (if its the kind I think) changes the height of the seat as youre riding, which is extremely bad for your legs (uneven pedaling will hurt your legs and make you more tired, faster). Also, think about this: The only time youre going to need shocks would probably be on sections where youre going to be standing on the pedals anyway. Giant is a good brand, though, but i think for the price youre looking at try to find a very basic mountain bike with a front shock only. This will ensure that the most amount of money is going toward parts that you need rather than gimmicks you dont. I would really suggest the Giant Rainer, or the Iguana. They might be a little above your price range, but you get good parts and a basic bike you can modify later. As far as your third question, at that price range most bike maufacturers will crank out bikes that are pretty much the same with no clear advantages over one another. Material: Steel is honestly a great material for frames, but only if its well welded with good tubes (like a truetemper platinum OX), but that makes it much more expensive. Aluminum is great to learn on but it will kick your ass in tough sections. Youre really looking for 7005 aluminum (as opposed to 6065), which is the best aluminum for frame making. And yes, I ride an aluminum frame (7005) and I am 250 lbs. Ok on to the final question: FS versus hardtail (no shocks in the back). This is the biggest debate in the bike industry. Let me list the benefits of each: Hardtail: Lighter bike, less upkeep, more control over traction. Hardtails are also great to learn on because they teach you much better how the bike responds to a certain obstacle. You can always tell when someone learned on a hardtail because their riding is much more refined and smooth. Also, you get better parts for the money. FS (full suspension): Smoother ride, automatic traction control (regulated by the shock), more confidence, more customizable. Downfalls: Hardtail: Much harder on your legs, your back, and your arms. And your butt. If youre not very good your traction can suck if you dont know how to regulate it. Did i mention its hard on your butt? FS: Heavier, more expensive, has a tendency to rob pedaling energy, (specially up hills, the "pogo" effect where the whole bike will bounce with your pedaling as opposed to moving forward), much more upkeep, If you dont get the right one youre totally screwed because of all the designs available. The thing with Fs vs Hardtail is that the cheaper the bike, the more the negatives you get. Notice for the FS the negatives are a lot, and you really have to spend at least about $2000 to get a FS that will actually benefit you. My suggestion: GO HARDTAIL. and yes thats what I ride. You'll get way too many problems if you get a FS, not to mention it could fall apart. Ill give you some examples of good bikes though, just in case you wanna run a search for these: Hardtail: Schwinn Homegrown, any Curtlo frame, Marin Juniper trail, The supergo Access frames are good (supergo.com), Specialized Stuntjumper, Gary Fisher classic advanced, and many other ones. FS: Intense anything, specialized FSR, Giant DS series, Marin full suspensions, and others. I hope I have answered your question and more, email me if you have any further questions. Happy bike hunting! Ps Sorry I might have bored you to death but I know too much for my own good. |
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1. Is a "comfort bike" really a modified mountain bike, or more like
a road bike? It's basically a mountan bike with less aggressive tires, a seatpost shock, and more comfortable handlebars 2. Is Giant a reputable manufacturer? They are the same as any bike mass produced in Asia. 3. Are there better brands for the same money, or equivalent brands for less money? Better brands naturally cost more money. 4. Is aluminum really the better material for a big guy who will go offroad? Aluminum is basically the only choice at your price point. Will be fine with suspension but a steel road bike is the only way to go. 5. For level riding at safe speeds, is there a benefit to having rear shocks? Do they cause any problems, like difficulty in climbing hills? A low end rear suspension does more harm than good. For $1000 stay away from full suspension. Again, thank you kindly for your responses. Greg |
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#5
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wrote in message
oups.com... At the LBS, they recommended a bike made by Giant, saying they were a reputable bike maker ala Raleigh or Schwinn. I would trust a Giant before I'd trust a Schwinn, based totally on brand reputation. -- Warm Regards, Claire Petersky Home of the meditative cyclist: http://home.earthlink.net/~cpetersky/Welcome.htm Personal page: http://www.geocities.com/cpetersky/ I'm doing the Big Climb for my friend Dena! See: http://www.active.com/donations/camp...?key=cpetersky |
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#9
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Rich wrote in news:10vj84vks03lr81
@corp.supernews.com: You've got a lot of very good and consistent advice. One thing I would add because of your weight is to pay a bit more for good wheels. The $300 bikes usualy do not have very strong wheels. It is hard to tell a strong wheel from a weak one by looking at them, but a good mechanic will be able to point you to a good wheel. You got the point that comfort bikes are not designed for more than casual off road riding on dirt roads and well groomed paths. Alan Acock |
#10
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Thank you for asking these questions. I got a lot of good information
from the answers. I ride a Giant Hardtail and had been thinking about getting a new bike with dual suspension. Don't think I will, now. I'll stick with what I have. I might see if they can add front suspesion to it, though. That sounds like it would take some of the jarring out of my rides off-road. Good questions, thanks again. Kumen. |
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