|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Interpreting Serotta Fit Cycle Data For Other Manufacturers?
"Steve Sr." wrote in message ... I am in the market for a new high-end road bike so I decided it would be a good idea to get a professional fit done first to figure out what bikes would fit and which wouldn't. See, I have been listening to you folks all these years! The best local fitting service that I could find was one offered by a local shop that sold Serotta and used the Serotta Fit Cycle. Before the fitting I told the shop that Serotta was on my list of possible candidates along with several other manufacturers and that I would need results that would be applicable to makes other than Serotta. I was told that this would not be a problem. The basic results of the fitting is that I have the loss of flexibility related to aging (I'm 48 and 160 Lbs.) and that I needed a bike with a higher front end and slightly shorter top tube. This information ruled out the Litespeed Tuscany as a problem in both of these areas. After the fitting the shop suggested a Serotta Fierte and a full carbon Trek Pilot. I also mentioned that Litespeed was on my list of possible makes and asked what Litespeed other than Tuscany would fit. Here is where the issue begins. The fitter said that the Litespeed Siena would probably fit but couldn't provide specifics since he didn't have data from Litespeed in the same for as Serotta to input into his computer program. So do I need a PhD in bike fitting to interpret the numbers from the Fit Cycle or is there a straight forward procedure to determine how close a certain manufacturers bike will match the fit data. The questions that need answered a 1. Which frame size is needed (53 or 55cm)? A 53cm gives the shorter top tube but with a taller seat post effectively lowers the front of the bike. A 55cm does just the opposite. 2. Will the seat post need to be straight or setback? This also will play into the correct stem length. 3. What is the correct angle and length of the stem? Can anyone enlighten me? Man, you make my head a-splode! All the data you need (seat angle and top tube length) is available at the Litespeed web-site. http://www.litespeed.com/bikes/2005/...y.aspx?b=siena . You paid for the professional fitting, just get the data, take it back to your fit guru and re-run the numbers. Assuming you are not built like E.T. -- and assuming you do not buy a bike with a notoriously top tube (e.g. LeMond), everything is about the same these days. Most fit changes are accomplished with stems and seatposts. As for me, I would go with the larger frame to avoid the leggy seat post and unsightly stem rise, but then again, I am a conventional frame kind of guy. I hate compacts. I don't think the 20mm difference in top-tube between the 53 and 55cm frames is going to make much of a difference. Also, you do not want to buy a short top-tube bike just because you are inflexible (as opposed to having a short upper body). Flexibility changes, especially if you actually ride this bike -- which you should, since it looks like you are going to dump a lot of money on it. Get an appropriate stem that deals with your current inflexibility and then change it when you get more flexible. I am your age and ride a bike with a longer top tube/stem than the one I raced 25 years ago. I know I am not more flexible now, but I seem to like being stretched out ore. -- Jay Beattie. |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
W/O looking at the data it is difficult to say which size is the best.
However, the Trek Pilot is specifically designed for this type of application. It has a gentle rise in the top tube that dosen't give the appearance of a compact. Additionally it has a slightly higher crown to its headtube. This allows for a more traditional appearance w/o drastic stem angles. If you want to avoid the mammoth that is Trek, Cannondale will be introducing a bike called the Synapse in early June. However, either of these bikes will work well for you. Josh McClure Durst Cycles |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
The basic results of the fitting is that I have the loss of
flexibility related to aging (I'm 48 and 160 Lbs.) and that I needed a bike with a higher front end and slightly shorter top tube. This information ruled out the Litespeed Tuscany as a problem in both of these areas. After the fitting the shop suggested a Serotta Fierte and a full carbon Trek Pilot. I also mentioned that Litespeed was on my list of possible makes and asked what Litespeed other than Tuscany would fit. For what it's worth, the Trek Pilot makes an excellent credit-card-touring machine. What many don't realize is that it's got clearance for pretty big (28c+ if desired) tires, something not commonly found on higher-end bikes these days. It's also got a higher starting position for the stem, due to the upward-sloping top tube (it's not really a "compact" design, where the front of the bike is the same as most but the top tube slopes down to a lower point; rather, it's an upwardly-sloping top tube where the seatpost end of the tube starts at a normal height, and goes up from there). --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReactionBicycles.com "Steve Sr." wrote in message ... I am in the market for a new high-end road bike so I decided it would be a good idea to get a professional fit done first to figure out what bikes would fit and which wouldn't. See, I have been listening to you folks all these years! The best local fitting service that I could find was one offered by a local shop that sold Serotta and used the Serotta Fit Cycle. Before the fitting I told the shop that Serotta was on my list of possible candidates along with several other manufacturers and that I would need results that would be applicable to makes other than Serotta. I was told that this would not be a problem. The basic results of the fitting is that I have the loss of flexibility related to aging (I'm 48 and 160 Lbs.) and that I needed a bike with a higher front end and slightly shorter top tube. This information ruled out the Litespeed Tuscany as a problem in both of these areas. After the fitting the shop suggested a Serotta Fierte and a full carbon Trek Pilot. I also mentioned that Litespeed was on my list of possible makes and asked what Litespeed other than Tuscany would fit. Here is where the issue begins. The fitter said that the Litespeed Siena would probably fit but couldn't provide specifics since he didn't have data from Litespeed in the same for as Serotta to input into his computer program. So do I need a PhD in bike fitting to interpret the numbers from the Fit Cycle or is there a straight forward procedure to determine how close a certain manufacturers bike will match the fit data. The questions that need answered a 1. Which frame size is needed (53 or 55cm)? A 53cm gives the shorter top tube but with a taller seat post effectively lowers the front of the bike. A 55cm does just the opposite. 2. Will the seat post need to be straight or setback? This also will play into the correct stem length. 3. What is the correct angle and length of the stem? Can anyone enlighten me? Thanks, Steve |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 18:08:18 -0800, Jay Beattie
wrote: "Steve Sr." wrote in message ... I am in the market for a new high-end road bike so I decided it would be a good idea to get a professional fit done first to figure out what bikes would fit and which wouldn't. See, I have been listening to you folks all these years! The best local fitting service that I could find was one offered by a local shop that sold Serotta and used the Serotta Fit Cycle. Before the fitting I told the shop that Serotta was on my list of possible candidates along with several other manufacturers and that I would need results that would be applicable to makes other than Serotta. I was told that this would not be a problem. The basic results of the fitting is that I have the loss of flexibility related to aging (I'm 48 and 160 Lbs.) and that I needed a bike with a higher front end and slightly shorter top tube. This information ruled out the Litespeed Tuscany as a problem in both of these areas. After the fitting the shop suggested a Serotta Fierte and a full carbon Trek Pilot. I also mentioned that Litespeed was on my list of possible makes and asked what Litespeed other than Tuscany would fit. Here is where the issue begins. The fitter said that the Litespeed Siena would probably fit but couldn't provide specifics since he didn't have data from Litespeed in the same for as Serotta to input into his computer program. So do I need a PhD in bike fitting to interpret the numbers from the Fit Cycle or is there a straight forward procedure to determine how close a certain manufacturers bike will match the fit data. The questions that need answered a 1. Which frame size is needed (53 or 55cm)? A 53cm gives the shorter top tube but with a taller seat post effectively lowers the front of the bike. A 55cm does just the opposite. 2. Will the seat post need to be straight or setback? This also will play into the correct stem length. 3. What is the correct angle and length of the stem? Can anyone enlighten me? Man, you make my head a-splode! All the data you need (seat angle and top tube length) is available at the Litespeed web-site. http://www.litespeed.com/bikes/2005/...y.aspx?b=siena . You paid for the professional fitting, just get the data, take it back to your fit guru and re-run the numbers. Assuming you are not built like E.T. -- and assuming you do not buy a bike with a notoriously top tube (e.g. LeMond), everything is about the same these days. Most fit changes are accomplished with stems and seatposts. As for me, I would go with the larger frame to avoid the leggy seat post and unsightly stem rise, but then again, I am a conventional frame kind of guy. I hate compacts. I don't think the 20mm difference in top-tube between the 53 and 55cm frames is going to make much of a difference. Also, you do not want to buy a short top-tube bike just because you are inflexible (as opposed to having a short upper body). Flexibility changes, especially if you actually ride this bike -- which you should, since it looks like you are going to dump a lot of money on it. Get an appropriate stem that deals with your current inflexibility and then change it when you get more flexible. I am your age and ride a bike with a longer top tube/stem than the one I raced 25 years ago. I know I am not more flexible now, but I seem to like being stretched out ore. -- Jay Beattie. Can you ride any of these bikes? I bought a LeMond because of the supposedly long top tube, but I still ended up changing the stem by 10mm. -- Bob in CT |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"Bob M" wrote in message news On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 18:08:18 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: "Steve Sr." wrote in message ... I am in the market for a new high-end road bike so I decided it would be a good idea to get a professional fit done first to figure out what bikes would fit and which wouldn't. See, I have been listening to you folks all these years! The best local fitting service that I could find was one offered by a local shop that sold Serotta and used the Serotta Fit Cycle. Before the fitting I told the shop that Serotta was on my list of possible candidates along with several other manufacturers and that I would need results that would be applicable to makes other than Serotta. I was told that this would not be a problem. The basic results of the fitting is that I have the loss of flexibility related to aging (I'm 48 and 160 Lbs.) and that I needed a bike with a higher front end and slightly shorter top tube. This information ruled out the Litespeed Tuscany as a problem in both of these areas. After the fitting the shop suggested a Serotta Fierte and a full carbon Trek Pilot. I also mentioned that Litespeed was on my list of possible makes and asked what Litespeed other than Tuscany would fit. Here is where the issue begins. The fitter said that the Litespeed Siena would probably fit but couldn't provide specifics since he didn't have data from Litespeed in the same for as Serotta to input into his computer program. So do I need a PhD in bike fitting to interpret the numbers from the Fit Cycle or is there a straight forward procedure to determine how close a certain manufacturers bike will match the fit data. The questions that need answered a 1. Which frame size is needed (53 or 55cm)? A 53cm gives the shorter top tube but with a taller seat post effectively lowers the front of the bike. A 55cm does just the opposite. 2. Will the seat post need to be straight or setback? This also will play into the correct stem length. 3. What is the correct angle and length of the stem? Can anyone enlighten me? Man, you make my head a-splode! All the data you need (seat angle and top tube length) is available at the Litespeed web-site. http://www.litespeed.com/bikes/2005/...y.aspx?b=siena .. You paid for the professional fitting, just get the data, take it back to your fit guru and re-run the numbers. Assuming you are not built like E.T. -- and assuming you do not buy a bike with a notoriously top tube (e.g. LeMond), everything is about the same these days. Most fit changes are accomplished with stems and seatposts. As for me, I would go with the larger frame to avoid the leggy seat post and unsightly stem rise, but then again, I am a conventional frame kind of guy. I hate compacts. I don't think the 20mm difference in top-tube between the 53 and 55cm frames is going to make much of a difference. Also, you do not want to buy a short top-tube bike just because you are inflexible (as opposed to having a short upper body). Flexibility changes, especially if you actually ride this bike -- which you should, since it looks like you are going to dump a lot of money on it. Get an appropriate stem that deals with your current inflexibility and then change it when you get more flexible. I am your age and ride a bike with a longer top tube/stem than the one I raced 25 years ago. I know I am not more flexible now, but I seem to like being stretched out ore. -- Jay Beattie. Can you ride any of these bikes? I bought a LeMond because of the supposedly long top tube, but I still ended up changing the stem by 10mm. 10mm is a relatively small amount, though, and pretty close for an off-the-rack bicycle. It seems to me that racing frame top tubes have actually gotten longer in the last 30 years -- for example, the Litespeed Ultimate has a 61cm top tube in the 63cm size (my size -- not my bike, though). Back in the day, it was not uncommon to see a 63cm frame with a 59cm top tube, or even slightly shorter. The current Colnago Dream, for example, has 58.7cm top tube in the 63cm size. This was the Italian way of building large bikes -- just make them taller. I commute on an old, custom steel (SP) racing frame with about a 58.5 top tube, which is too short even with a 130mm stem. But I have only myself to blame since I was the one who (mis)cut that tube. -- Jay Beattie. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 10:41:59 -0800, Jay Beattie
wrote: "Bob M" wrote in message news [cut] Can you ride any of these bikes? I bought a LeMond because of the supposedly long top tube, but I still ended up changing the stem by 10mm. 10mm is a relatively small amount, though, and pretty close for an off-the-rack bicycle. It seems to me that racing frame top tubes have actually gotten longer in the last 30 years -- for example, the Litespeed Ultimate has a 61cm top tube in the 63cm size (my size -- not my bike, though). Back in the day, it was not uncommon to see a 63cm frame with a 59cm top tube, or even slightly shorter. The current Colnago Dream, for example, has 58.7cm top tube in the 63cm size. This was the Italian way of building large bikes -- just make them taller. I commute on an old, custom steel (SP) racing frame with about a 58.5 top tube, which is too short even with a 130mm stem. But I have only myself to blame since I was the one who (mis)cut that tube. -- Jay Beattie. That's true. My LeMond replaced a Trek, which I couldn't stand after a while due to the shortish top tube (meaning I could never get proper positioning -- even with a "set back" seatpost -- over the pedals). On the LeMond, I went from a 110 to a 130 mm stem -- oops! That's 20mm, 2cm, not 10 mm. That's almost an inch (and that's with a set back seatpost that came standard on the LeMond). -- Bob in CT |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
"Steve Sr." wrote in message ... On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 18:08:18 -0800, "Jay Beattie" wrote: "Steve Sr." wrote in message .. . I am in the market for a new high-end road bike so I decided it would be a good idea to get a professional fit done first to figure out what bikes would fit and which wouldn't. See, I have been listening to you folks all these years! The best local fitting service that I could find was one offered by a local shop that sold Serotta and used the Serotta Fit Cycle. Before the fitting I told the shop that Serotta was on my list of possible candidates along with several other manufacturers and that I would need results that would be applicable to makes other than Serotta. I was told that this would not be a problem. The basic results of the fitting is that I have the loss of flexibility related to aging (I'm 48 and 160 Lbs.) and that I needed a bike with a higher front end and slightly shorter top tube. This information ruled out the Litespeed Tuscany as a problem in both of these areas. After the fitting the shop suggested a Serotta Fierte and a full carbon Trek Pilot. I also mentioned that Litespeed was on my list of possible makes and asked what Litespeed other than Tuscany would fit. Here is where the issue begins. The fitter said that the Litespeed Siena would probably fit but couldn't provide specifics since he didn't have data from Litespeed in the same for as Serotta to input into his computer program. So do I need a PhD in bike fitting to interpret the numbers from the Fit Cycle or is there a straight forward procedure to determine how close a certain manufacturers bike will match the fit data. The questions that need answered a 1. Which frame size is needed (53 or 55cm)? A 53cm gives the shorter top tube but with a taller seat post effectively lowers the front of the bike. A 55cm does just the opposite. 2. Will the seat post need to be straight or setback? This also will play into the correct stem length. 3. What is the correct angle and length of the stem? Can anyone enlighten me? Man, you make my head a-splode! All the data you need (seat angle and top tube length) is available at the Litespeed web-site. http://www.litespeed.com/bikes/2005/...y.aspx?b=siena .. Yes, the Litespeed data is all there but how to match it up with the measurements from the Fit Cycle is the issue. You paid for the professional fitting, just get the data, take it back to your fit guru and re-run the numbers. Yes, I need to do this but the fit guy works hours that I can't make without loosing at least 3 hours of work so communication has been difficult. Assuming you are not built like E.T. -- and assuming you do not buy a bike with a notoriously top tube (e.g. LeMond), everything is about the same these days. Most fit changes are accomplished with stems and seatposts. As for me, I would go with the larger frame to avoid the leggy seat post and unsightly stem rise, but then again, I am a conventional frame kind of guy. However, this will cause the top tube to be considerably too long. The final adjustments on the Fit Cycle had it set for a 55/55 but with an unrealistically short 70mm stem. I hate compacts. So just what charactistics describe "compact" geometry. I thought it was just a sloped top tube to allow the manufacturer to fit more people with fewer stock frame sizes? I don't think the 20mm difference in top-tube between the 53 and 55cm frames is going to make much of a difference. That is almost an inch which seems significant. Go to the Litespeed page and look at how they size their compact frames. http://www.litespeed.com/bikes/2005/sizing.aspx This will also show you the difference between a conventional and compact frame. I agree with you that 20mm is significant. In a smaller compact, however (a 53cm v. 55cm) the difference may not be that significant depending on the seat tube angle of the smaller frame and the seat post extension (and increased set back). A small frame may have a shorter "virtual top tube" but if there is a lot of post showing, you may get stretched out just as far as a larger frame -- and you certainly will drop a lot more, unless you get a stem with rise. Someone smarter than me needs to run the numbers because it involves tangents, cosigns and all that stuff that hurts my brain to think about. Even on a conventional frame, 20mm can be taken up with a stem length adjustment, assuming that you are not at the limits and it does not put you in an odd place in relationship to the steering axis. Also, you do not want to buy a short top-tube bike just because you are inflexible (as opposed to having a short upper body). I don't know if it is flexibility or short torso but I like to see where I'm going and my neck doesn't bend back far enough to allow me to comfortably stay on the hoods or drops for extended intervals without a sore neck. Flexibility changes, especially if you actually ride this bike -- which you should, since it looks like you are going to dump a lot of money on it. Get an appropriate stem that deals with your current inflexibility and then change it when you get more flexible. I am your age and ride a bike with a longer top tube/stem than the one I raced 25 years ago. I know I am not more flexible now, but I seem to like being stretched out ore. -- Jay Beattie. I think my inflexibility is probably more severe than most and hereditary in nature. I know there is no way my flexibility has improved with aging. Anyway, My current ride is a 53 cm 2000 Cannondale T2000. The seat post is kind of high and the seat has to be set all the way back in the rails for my knee to line up correctly over the spindle. This is also with a Thomson set back seatpost. The top tube on this bike is kind of long at 54cm (measured). It currently has a 110mm stem and angle of about 125-130 degrees from horizontal. The stem is sitting on top of 3 (3/4") of spacers. With this currrent setup there is too much pressure on my hands (numbness) while on the drops and can't really use the drops at all if I want to see where I'm going. It is begining to look like I need a 55cm seat tube to make my legs fit and a 53 cm top tube to make the top of my body happy. So far I haven't found this combination. You obviously have fit issues beyond those of the average consumer. One thing you might try on your Cannondale is a shorter stem with more rise. This would be a low-cost way of finding out exactly what makes you happy. This is how I handle fit: fiddle the hell out of my racing bike and then transfer all of the dimensions to my other bikes, if possible. The "possible" part comes in where the other frame has a top tube that is too short or too long, and changing the stem has a dramatic affect on steering. Again, I am a tall rider and like longer top tubes -- which appears to be the way the market is trending these days. -- Jay Beattie. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Who is going to Interbike? | Bruce Gilbert | Techniques | 2 | October 10th 03 09:26 PM |
FAQ | Just zis Guy, you know? | UK | 27 | September 5th 03 10:58 PM |
CTC / Cycle Campaign Network Autumn Conference | Simon Geller | UK | 0 | September 2nd 03 11:15 AM |
Pick 'n Pay Cape Argus Cycle Tour - Cape Town, South Africa, 2004 | David Cowie | Racing | 0 | August 28th 03 10:29 PM |
Pick 'n Pay Cape Argus Cycle Tour - Cape Town, South Africa, 2004 | David Cowie | UK | 0 | August 28th 03 10:29 PM |