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I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 15th 11, 05:42 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Tom Lake
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Posts: 34
Default I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...

.... however, I had an old, quality frame from the '80s with 100K on
it; the components were worn, so I set it up with a "flip flop" hub
and I found that it suits me well.

One question, though: chain tension is a bear. When you have to
remove the rear wheel, what's the best method of getting it back in
with correct tension on the drive chain? I need a few more hands, I
fear. The BMX crowd has those chain devices that seem to work on that
style of drop out. What's my method with the 30 degree drop outs?

I have a solid axle.

  #2  
Old May 15th 11, 06:27 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 2,322
Default I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...

On May 15, 11:42*am, Tom Lake wrote:
... however, I had an old, quality frame from the '80s with 100K on
it; the components were worn, so I set it up with a "flip flop" hub
and I found that it suits me well.

One question, though: chain tension is a bear. *When you have to
remove the rear wheel, what's the best method of getting it back in
with correct tension on the drive chain? *I need a few more hands, I
fear. *The BMX crowd has those chain devices that seem to work on that
style of drop out. *What's my method with the 30 degree drop outs?

I have a solid axle.


Have you read Sheldon on the subject?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html

There's a good section there about getting your chainring as
concentric as possible.

Sheldon also talks about "walking" the rear wheel into desired
position (serving to regulate chain tension). Tighten one side semi-
tight, work the wheel back and forth, tightening sides as appropriate
to arrive at correct chain tension with a centered wheel.
On a good day I can jam a hand in between the seat tube and the rear
tire and do it with two "tightens".

(excuse me) Don't check a moving chain's tension with your fingers,
any way shape or form. There are pictures of guys they started calling
"Stumpy" after one or more digits got sucked into the chain and drive
teeth of cog or chainring.

Fixed or freewheel (including the White Industries Dos Uno two-cog
fixed arrangement), good deal, it's fun. Just got my fixed out the
other day and had one of the best 2011 rides so far, excellent and I
only forgot once!
--D-y
  #3  
Old May 15th 11, 09:12 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Tom Lake
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Posts: 34
Default I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...

On Sun, 15 May 2011 10:27:42 -0700 (PDT), in rec.bicycles.tech
" wrote:

Have you read Sheldon on the subject?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html

There's a good section there about getting your chainring as
concentric as possible.

Sheldon also talks about "walking" the rear wheel into desired
position (serving to regulate chain tension). Tighten one side semi-
tight, work the wheel back and forth, tightening sides as appropriate
to arrive at correct chain tension with a centered wheel.
On a good day I can jam a hand in between the seat tube and the rear
tire and do it with two "tightens".

(excuse me) Don't check a moving chain's tension with your fingers,
any way shape or form. There are pictures of guys they started calling
"Stumpy" after one or more digits got sucked into the chain and drive
teeth of cog or chainring.

Fixed or freewheel (including the White Industries Dos Uno two-cog
fixed arrangement), good deal, it's fun. Just got my fixed out the
other day and had one of the best 2011 rides so far, excellent and I
only forgot once!


Well, you'd think I'd read that first; however, I didn't. Methinks
his people should take that into a "wiki-bikes" type of format. I'd
bet Sheldon would approve. I never had the pleasure of meeting the
man.

If I were building a fixie from scratch, I think I'd go with a
vertical drop out and an eccentric BB shell in a chain case.

Now, you know what *I* think... use your next two wishes wisely!

  #4  
Old May 16th 11, 02:12 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
landotter
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Posts: 6,336
Default I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...

On May 15, 3:12*pm, Tom Lake wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2011 10:27:42 -0700 (PDT), in rec.bicycles.tech









" wrote:
Have you read Sheldon on the subject?


http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html


There's a good section there about getting your chainring as
concentric as possible.


Sheldon also talks about "walking" the rear wheel into desired
position (serving to regulate chain tension). Tighten one side semi-
tight, work the wheel back and forth, tightening sides as appropriate
to arrive at correct chain tension with a centered wheel.
On a good day I can jam a hand in between the seat tube and the rear
tire and do it with two "tightens".


(excuse me) Don't check a moving chain's tension with your fingers,
any way shape or form. There are pictures of guys they started calling
"Stumpy" after one or more digits got sucked into the chain and drive
teeth of cog or chainring.


Fixed or freewheel (including the White Industries Dos Uno two-cog
fixed arrangement), good deal, it's fun. Just got my fixed out the
other day and had one of the best 2011 rides so far, excellent and I
only forgot once!


Well, you'd think I'd read that first; however, I didn't. *Methinks
his people should take that into a "wiki-bikes" type of format. *I'd
bet Sheldon would approve. *I never had the pleasure of meeting the
man.

If I were building a fixie from scratch, I think I'd go with a
vertical drop out and an eccentric BB shell in a chain case.

Now, you know what *I* think... use your next two wishes wisely!


I'm quite fond of the sturdy and straightforward Redline tugnuts I use
on my single speed. Regular track dropouts. I rarely fuss with chain
tension, as you can pull the wheel, reinstall with the tugs, and the
chain will be exactly as it was before.

http://www.amazon.com/Redline-Alloy-...uct/B000AYEWUK
  #5  
Old May 19th 11, 02:02 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Tom Lake
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Posts: 34
Default I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...

On Mon, 16 May 2011 06:12:38 -0700 (PDT), in rec.bicycles.tech
landotter wrote:

I'm quite fond of the sturdy and straightforward Redline tugnuts I use
on my single speed. Regular track dropouts. I rarely fuss with chain
tension, as you can pull the wheel, reinstall with the tugs, and the
chain will be exactly as it was before.

http://www.amazon.com/Redline-Alloy-...uct/B000AYEWUK


Really!??

And they work well for you? I wouldn't have thought they'd work on a
track dropout.

  #6  
Old May 19th 11, 05:43 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
landotter
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Posts: 6,336
Default I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...

On May 19, 8:02*am, Tom Lake wrote:
On Mon, 16 May 2011 06:12:38 -0700 (PDT), in rec.bicycles.tech

landotter wrote:
I'm quite fond of the sturdy and straightforward Redline tugnuts I use
on my single speed. Regular track dropouts. I rarely fuss with chain
tension, as you can pull the wheel, reinstall with the tugs, and the
chain will be exactly as it was before.


http://www.amazon.com/Redline-Alloy-...ack/dp/tags-on...


Really!??

And they work well for you? *I wouldn't have thought they'd work on a
track dropout.


That's exactly what they're designed for. Wouldn't work for semi-
horizontal dropouts, though. BMX and track, no problem.
  #7  
Old May 20th 11, 12:12 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
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Posts: 13,447
Default I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...

Tom Lake wrote:
On Mon, 16 May 2011 06:12:38 -0700 (PDT), in rec.bicycles.tech
landotter wrote:

I'm quite fond of the sturdy and straightforward Redline tugnuts I use
on my single speed. Regular track dropouts. I rarely fuss with chain
tension, as you can pull the wheel, reinstall with the tugs, and the
chain will be exactly as it was before.

http://www.amazon.com/Redline-Alloy-...uct/B000AYEWUK


Really!??

And they work well for you? I wouldn't have thought they'd work on a
track dropout.


These can _only_ work with rear-facing horizontal ends.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
  #8  
Old May 15th 11, 09:47 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...

Tom Lake wrote:
... however, I had an old, quality frame from the '80s with 100K on
it; the components were worn, so I set it up with a "flip flop" hub
and I found that it suits me well.

One question, though: chain tension is a bear. When you have to
remove the rear wheel, what's the best method of getting it back in
with correct tension on the drive chain? I need a few more hands, I
fear. The BMX crowd has those chain devices that seem to work on that
style of drop out. What's my method with the 30 degree drop outs?

I have a solid axle.


Lubricate your axle nuts.

Drop wheel in, snug up one side.
Check centering and chain tension, walk one side or the
other as needed, then fully tighten.

This isn't difficult or complex and note well that chain
needs this much slack:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/chainchk.html

Overly tight chain eats bearings and chainrings both
mercilessly and quickly.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
  #9  
Old May 15th 11, 10:29 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Tom Lake
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Posts: 34
Default I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...

On Sun, 15 May 2011 15:47:43 -0500, in rec.bicycles.tech AMuzi
wrote:

Lubricate your axle nuts.


That's *way* too simple.

Surely, I should go out and buy something?

OTOH, I haven't actually tried that, yet.

I'll get back to you...

  #10  
Old May 16th 11, 05:20 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
thirty-six
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Posts: 10,049
Default I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...

On May 15, 10:29*pm, Tom Lake wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2011 15:47:43 -0500, in rec.bicycles.tech AMuzi

wrote:
Lubricate your axle nuts.


That's *way* too simple.

Surely, I should go out and buy something?

OTOH, I haven't actually tried that, yet.

I'll get back to you...


Knowledge is aquired by the observant student, it cannot be bought.
 




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