"Franken-bike" gearing question

I've decided - posters here usually know what they're talking about,
except for me! In an effort to become bicycle omniscient (I'm almost
there), I have another question.

My bike came with a Centaur 10-speed standard double group, 12/25
cassette. I've ridden rides with mountain climbs, needed lower gearing,
so I switched to a FSA 110bcd compact crank (50/34.) The high end is
barely high enough so I don't get dropped by the bike club group on the
"flat-ish" descents (sometimes the tandems are pulling, and I really have
to spin to keep up on those gentle descents.)

Here's my dilemma - I'd like to go with even a lower gear for more
mountains this spring, like a 12/27, but Campy doesn't produce that
combination. If I went with one of the 13/X combinations, I'm gonna get
dropped. (ok, I could increase my max cadence riding a fixie)

So, one option I think I have is go 13/X, and change the 50-tooth 110bcd
to maybe a 52-tooth to keep my high end? That would really add a lot of
distance for the front derailleur to move the chain.

Another option I've seen is to buy the 13/X Campy and mix it with my
current 12/25. I'm willing to try that if someone could confirm that
would work.

Of course, the obvious answer is to upgrade to a triple crank. Then, I
need a new front derailleur, maybe a new rear derailleur (not sure here).
What do you do with the shifters? I guess a Campy shifter will work with
either? Or, is there a 'switch' in the shifter somewhere to set it to
run triple? Or, would I be in for new shifters? Never mind the needling
I'd get from my buddies for converting to a triple, and the crap I'd get
from my wife if I spent all that money!

In my attempt to set up my bike to "do it all", I hope to keep from
creating a bike only Dr. Frankenstein would love...

Thanks in advance!

PatC wrote:

Here's my dilemma - I'd like to go with even a lower gear for more
mountains this spring, like a 12/27, but Campy doesn't produce that
combination.

Forgive my ignorance about Campy bits, but can't you just build your
own cassette? Shimanos require a bit of grinding, but Srams have little
hex screws on back for disassembly--don't Campy cassettes have the
same?

If they do, then just get a new one with the 27t that you need, take it
apart, and using your old cogs and spacers (the ones that don't have
visible wear, often the smaller ones) along with the new and build the
combo you need. You could possibly go up t even a 32t cog, which might
look funny, but why not? You'd need a derailleur that could clear it of
course.

A triple's an option, but then you'll need a long cage rear mech, new
brifter (unless the campy ones can do both 2&3 rings), and crankset.

PatC wrote:
I've decided - posters here usually know what they're talking about,
except for me! In an effort to become bicycle omniscient (I'm almost
there), I have another question.

My bike came with a Centaur 10-speed standard double group, 12/25
cassette. I've ridden rides with mountain climbs, needed lower gearing,
so I switched to a FSA 110bcd compact crank (50/34.) The high end is
barely high enough so I don't get dropped by the bike club group on the
"flat-ish" descents (sometimes the tandems are pulling, and I really have
to spin to keep up on those gentle descents.)

Here's my dilemma - I'd like to go with even a lower gear for more
mountains this spring, like a 12/27, but Campy doesn't produce that
combination. If I went with one of the 13/X combinations, I'm gonna get
dropped. (ok, I could increase my max cadence riding a fixie)

So, one option I think I have is go 13/X, and change the 50-tooth 110bcd
to maybe a 52-tooth to keep my high end? That would really add a lot of
distance for the front derailleur to move the chain.

Another option I've seen is to buy the 13/X Campy and mix it with my
current 12/25. I'm willing to try that if someone could confirm that
would work.

Of course, the obvious answer is to upgrade to a triple crank. Then, I
need a new front derailleur, maybe a new rear derailleur (not sure here).
What do you do with the shifters? I guess a Campy shifter will work with
either? Or, is there a 'switch' in the shifter somewhere to set it to
run triple? Or, would I be in for new shifters? Never mind the needling
I'd get from my buddies for converting to a triple, and the crap I'd get
from my wife if I spent all that money!

In my attempt to set up my bike to "do it all", I hope to keep from
creating a bike only Dr. Frankenstein would love...

Thanks in advance!

Campy cassettes are unlike Shimano made of entirely separate pieces.
Mix-n-match! Build an 11-27 if you want.

Joseph

Dans le message de . 136,
PatC a réfléchi, et puis a déclaré :
I've decided - posters here usually know what they're talking about,
except for me! In an effort to become bicycle omniscient (I'm almost
there), I have another question.

My bike came with a Centaur 10-speed standard double group, 12/25
cassette. I've ridden rides with mountain climbs, needed lower
gearing, so I switched to a FSA 110bcd compact crank (50/34.) The
high end is barely high enough so I don't get dropped by the bike
club group on the "flat-ish" descents (sometimes the tandems are
pulling, and I really have to spin to keep up on those gentle
descents.)

Here's my dilemma - I'd like to go with even a lower gear for more
mountains this spring, like a 12/27, but Campy doesn't produce that
combination. If I went with one of the 13/X combinations, I'm gonna
get dropped. (ok, I could increase my max cadence riding a fixie)

50x12 is around 50km/h @ 90-100 rpm. Your club is certainly ready for Pro
Tour Continental status.

Come on - this is not real. At a still comfortable 110rpm, you can get to
around 60+ km/h, and I have a real hard time believing that this group
sustains that kind of speed for any length of time. And you can always
catch up. Or, if it's a group of hard-assed show-offs, and they won't wait
for you, find another group, ride more, get faster.

So, one option I think I have is go 13/X, and change the 50-tooth
110bcd to maybe a 52-tooth to keep my high end? That would really
add a lot of distance for the front derailleur to move the chain.

Another option I've seen is to buy the 13/X Campy and mix it with my
current 12/25. I'm willing to try that if someone could confirm that
would work.

Of course, the obvious answer is to upgrade to a triple crank.

I still don't get it. If you're strong enough to sustain a long ride at 60
km/h, then what's the triple for ?

Then,
I need a new front derailleur, maybe a new rear derailleur (not sure
here). What do you do with the shifters? I guess a Campy shifter
will work with either? Or, is there a 'switch' in the shifter
somewhere to set it to run triple? Or, would I be in for new
shifters? Never mind the needling I'd get from my buddies for
converting to a triple, and the crap I'd get from my wife if I spent
all that money!

In my attempt to set up my bike to "do it all", I hope to keep from
creating a bike only Dr. Frankenstein would love...

Ride the bike more. Enjoy yourself. Find good company. Or just spend
money, if that's the hobby you are really pursuing.
--
Sandy

The above is guaranteed 100% free of sarcasm,
denigration, snotty remarks, indifference, platitudes, fuming demands that
"you do the math", conceited visions of a better world on wheels according
to [insert NAME here].

On Sat, 04 Feb 2006 08:34:13 -0600, PatC wrote:

My bike came with a Centaur 10-speed standard double group, 12/25
cassette. I've ridden rides with mountain climbs, needed lower gearing,
so I switched to a FSA 110bcd compact crank (50/34.) The high end is
barely high enough so I don't get dropped by the bike club group on the
"flat-ish" descents (sometimes the tandems are pulling, and I really have
to spin to keep up on those gentle descents.)

Learn to draft behind those tandems and you won't have to pedal at all
downhill.

Here's my dilemma - I'd like to go with even a lower gear for more
mountains this spring, like a 12/27, but Campy doesn't produce that
combination. If I went with one of the 13/X combinations, I'm gonna get
dropped. (ok, I could increase my max cadence riding a fixie)

How much time are you spending in your 50/12? If you are spending a
significant amount of time in it, it isn't just on downhills. And, either
your buddies are Cat 1 racers, or you could stand to up your cadence,
fixie or not. It actually increases your endurance to use a higher
cadence.


So, one option I think I have is go 13/X, and change the 50-tooth 110bcd
to maybe a 52-tooth to keep my high end? That would really add a lot of
distance for the front derailleur to move the chain.

It'll manage. Mine has a 16-tooth jump and works fine.

Another option I've seen is to buy the 13/X Campy and mix it with my
current 12/25. I'm willing to try that if someone could confirm that
would work.

Sure. The ramps and things won't match up as well where you make the
jump from one cassette to the other, probably, but it will still shift
well.


Of course, the obvious answer is to upgrade to a triple crank. Then, I
need a new front derailleur,

No

maybe a new rear derailleur

Probably, in order to get enough capacity

(not sure
here). What do you do with the shifters?

Your Campy shifter will work on a triple. It's not really indexed, so can
shift just about anything.

My first suggestion would be to increase your cadence on the flats.
Second would be to get that wider cassette if you still feel you need it,
but you should be OK with the 50/34 13-27. (or is it 13-26?).

--

David L. Johnson

__o | "Business!" cried the Ghost. "Mankind was my business. The
_`\(,_ | common welfare was my business; charity, mercy, forbearance,
(_)/ (_) | and benevolence, were, all, my business. The dealings of my
trade were but a drop of water in the comprehensive ocean of my
business!" --Dickens, "A Christmas Carol"

On Sat, 04 Feb 2006 08:34:13 -0600, PatC wrote:

I've decided - posters here usually know what they're talking about,
except for me! In an effort to become bicycle omniscient (I'm almost
there), I have another question.

My bike came with a Centaur 10-speed standard double group, 12/25
cassette. I've ridden rides with mountain climbs, needed lower gearing,
so I switched to a FSA 110bcd compact crank (50/34.) The high end is
barely high enough so I don't get dropped by the bike club group on the
"flat-ish" descents (sometimes the tandems are pulling, and I really have
to spin to keep up on those gentle descents.)

Here's my dilemma - I'd like to go with even a lower gear for more
mountains this spring, like a 12/27, but Campy doesn't produce that
combination. If I went with one of the 13/X combinations, I'm gonna get
dropped. (ok, I could increase my max cadence riding a fixie)

So, one option I think I have is go 13/X, and change the 50-tooth 110bcd
to maybe a 52-tooth to keep my high end? That would really add a lot of
distance for the front derailleur to move the chain.

Another option I've seen is to buy the 13/X Campy and mix it with my
current 12/25. I'm willing to try that if someone could confirm that
would work.

Of course, the obvious answer is to upgrade to a triple crank. Then, I
need a new front derailleur, maybe a new rear derailleur (not sure here).
What do you do with the shifters? I guess a Campy shifter will work with
either? Or, is there a 'switch' in the shifter somewhere to set it to
run triple? Or, would I be in for new shifters? Never mind the needling
I'd get from my buddies for converting to a triple, and the crap I'd get
from my wife if I spent all that money!

In my attempt to set up my bike to "do it all", I hope to keep from
creating a bike only Dr. Frankenstein would love...

Thanks in advance!

50-13 at a cadence of 100 gets 29-30mph, the 12 brings the speed up
about 2.4mph.

Maybe work on your spinning, or not??


Life is Good!
Jeff

Jeff Starr wrote:
On Sat, 04 Feb 2006 08:34:13 -0600, PatC wrote:

I've decided - posters here usually know what they're talking about,
except for me! In an effort to become bicycle omniscient (I'm almost
there), I have another question.

My bike came with a Centaur 10-speed standard double group, 12/25
cassette. I've ridden rides with mountain climbs, needed lower gearing,
so I switched to a FSA 110bcd compact crank (50/34.) The high end is
barely high enough so I don't get dropped by the bike club group on the
"flat-ish" descents (sometimes the tandems are pulling, and I really have
to spin to keep up on those gentle descents.)

Here's my dilemma - I'd like to go with even a lower gear for more
mountains this spring, like a 12/27, but Campy doesn't produce that
combination. If I went with one of the 13/X combinations, I'm gonna get
dropped. (ok, I could increase my max cadence riding a fixie)

So, one option I think I have is go 13/X, and change the 50-tooth 110bcd
to maybe a 52-tooth to keep my high end? That would really add a lot of
distance for the front derailleur to move the chain.

Another option I've seen is to buy the 13/X Campy and mix it with my
current 12/25. I'm willing to try that if someone could confirm that
would work.

Of course, the obvious answer is to upgrade to a triple crank. Then, I
need a new front derailleur, maybe a new rear derailleur (not sure here).
What do you do with the shifters? I guess a Campy shifter will work with
either? Or, is there a 'switch' in the shifter somewhere to set it to
run triple? Or, would I be in for new shifters? Never mind the needling
I'd get from my buddies for converting to a triple, and the crap I'd get
from my wife if I spent all that money!

In my attempt to set up my bike to "do it all", I hope to keep from
creating a bike only Dr. Frankenstein would love...

Thanks in advance!

50-13 at a cadence of 100 gets 29-30mph, the 12 brings the speed up
about 2.4mph.

Maybe work on your spinning, or not??


Life is Good!
Jeff

If the guy is spun out at 50x12, he needs higher gearing. Then he has
the option of spinning, or riding at a cadence he likes.

All this talk about Cat1 only needing gears like that isn't true. I use
a 53-39x12-25 and ride with guys who use 53-39x11-21. When they are
churing and I am spinning, I wish I had a 55x12! It only happens on
downhills or tailwinds, but it happens. In big groups I am often using
only the 12,13,14,15 and I have a 53. If I had a 50 I'd absolutely need
an 11.

My vote is for the tripple for the OP. Keep the gearing tight, but have
a large range if he needs it on the hils (up and down!)

Joseph

PatC wrote:
Here's my dilemma - I'd like to go with even a lower gear for more
mountains this spring, like a 12/27, but Campy doesn't produce that
combination. If I went with one of the 13/X combinations, I'm gonna get
dropped. (ok, I could increase my max cadence riding a fixie)

If you rode a fixer for a month, you'd realized this is all in your head.

In article
,
PatC wrote:

I've decided - posters here usually know what they're talking about,
except for me! In an effort to become bicycle omniscient (I'm almost
there), I have another question.

My bike came with a Centaur 10-speed standard double group, 12/25
cassette. I've ridden rides with mountain climbs, needed lower gearing,
so I switched to a FSA 110bcd compact crank (50/34.) The high end is
barely high enough so I don't get dropped by the bike club group on the
"flat-ish" descents (sometimes the tandems are pulling, and I really have
to spin to keep up on those gentle descents.)

Here's my dilemma - I'd like to go with even a lower gear for more
mountains this spring, like a 12/27, but Campy doesn't produce that
combination. If I went with one of the 13/X combinations, I'm gonna get
dropped. (ok, I could increase my max cadence riding a fixie)

So, one option I think I have is go 13/X, and change the 50-tooth 110bcd
to maybe a 52-tooth to keep my high end? That would really add a lot of
distance for the front derailleur to move the chain.

Another option I've seen is to buy the 13/X Campy and mix it with my
current 12/25. I'm willing to try that if someone could confirm that
would work.

Of course, the obvious answer is to upgrade to a triple crank. Then, I
need a new front derailleur, maybe a new rear derailleur (not sure here).
What do you do with the shifters? I guess a Campy shifter will work with
either? Or, is there a 'switch' in the shifter somewhere to set it to
run triple? Or, would I be in for new shifters? Never mind the needling
I'd get from my buddies for converting to a triple, and the crap I'd get
from my wife if I spent all that money!

In my attempt to set up my bike to "do it all", I hope to keep from
creating a bike only Dr. Frankenstein would love...

You never stated why you want to change the chain wheels.
As Sandy says, 50/12 is 60 km / hr @ 110 rpm. What's the
problem you want to solve? What is the current chain wheel
configuration?

--
Michael Press

Michael Press wrote in
:

In article
,
PatC wrote:


You never stated why you want to change the chain wheels.
As Sandy says, 50/12 is 60 km / hr @ 110 rpm. What's the
problem you want to solve? What is the current chain wheel
configuration?


Thanks everyone for your replies!

It's obvious some of you all think I'm a wimp, or you think my club
should be riding in the European professional circuit. I think it's
neither. We rode a MS150 ride this fall, pretty flat. On the return
trip, at about mile 50 of 60, the tandems took off down a hill, and I
couldn't spin fast enough to stay with them, even when directly behind
them, inches from the wheel in front. They're running 53/11. I don't
know where that spins out, but it's much higher speed than my 50/12. I
don't know what cadence I would have to be at, to match whatever they're
spinning out at! I can't sustain 100rpm cadence for any period of time
without trashing my legs and energy reserves.

After more research and all of your replies, I think the ultimate answer
is a triple. But, for the short-term, I may try to find a deal on
another Campy cassette, and experiment with mixing them. I also hear the
gearing alignment won't be perfect, but it's worth a shot to get a little
lower gearing. I may have to live with my high gear for now, unless I
can find two more cassettes to mix, to give me that 11/26 or 11/29 range.
I might have to get a different derailleur too! Oh, where does it stop?
(-:

As others suggested, I just need to become a better rider! Maybe I
should just switch to a motorcycle? NOT!

Thanks again...