What's the best patch?

In article ,
somebody wrote:

What's the best patch kit to use in the context of a daily commuter or
moderate distance (20-40 miles) recreational rider? Is it a good idea
to use a larger inner tube size so patches don't have to stretch? I
am currently carrying an extra tube and a glue-type patch kit.

Are any of the glueless patches any good? I was thinking of the Park
glueless patch just to avoid dealing with dried out tubes of glue.

Carry spare tubes, and patch at home.
Rema patches, auto store glue, 80 grit emory cloth.
The road patch kit has a small tube of glue. Be sure
that the solvent has not evaporated from the tube,
as it can even sealed. Leaks through the crimp.

--
Michael Press

Phil W Lee wrote:
considered Sun, 5 Apr 2009 10:09:18 -0700 (PDT) the
perfect time to write:

On 5 Apr., 14:01, somebody wrote:
What's the best patch kit to use in the context of a daily commuter or
moderate distance (20-40 miles) recreational rider? Is it a good idea
to use a larger inner tube size so patches don't have to stretch? I
am currently carrying an extra tube and a glue-type patch kit.
The best patches I have tried are Rema Tip Top F0 patches. They are
sold as patches alone or as patch kits in small boxes called TT01.
Such a box only cost a couple of euro's/dollars so buy several of
them; one box for the road and one or more at your home. I like the F0
patches because they are small and supple unlike the big thick and
hard patches I have tried from other brands.
A good patching strategy for many commuters is to carry one or two
spare tubes in zip-locks and replace tubes when they are punctured
since this is the fastest thing to do. It is also hard to patch tubes
on the road when it is raining or very cold. One can then patch the
punctured tubes in the comfort of ones home when one feels like doing
so. I tend to patch my tubes in batches when I have accumulated
enough.

I can recommend reading this:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html
My patching technique improved a lot after I read the above on _why_
(and how) one should apply sandpaper to the tubes.

Regarding using thicker inner tubes, then I wouldn't bother. I have
never experienced any stretching problems with Rema F0 patches.

Are any of the glueless patches any good? I was thinking of the Park
glueless patch just to avoid dealing with dried out tubes of glue.
I carry a single glueless Park Tool patch in my regular patch kit.
Never used it, but it may come in handy one day. My LBS warned me that
they could give problems with high pressure tires and tubes before I
bought it.
Buy several TT01 patch kits, and if you patch at home then you don't
need to break the seal on glue tube in the patch kit you carry on your
bike, or you can carry two glue tubes in you patch kit.

I always keep the newest tube of rubber solution in the kit on the
bike, and use that to replace the one I keep in the toolkit at home
when the home kit either runs out or dries out.
Once opened, I don't replace rubber solution into the on-bike kit, but
move it into the home toolkit and replace it with a new one.
If I find a dried out tube of solution, I'd rather it was at home,
where I'm not stranded, than out on the road, so that is always a new
sealed tube.
That way, if I do need it on the road, I know it's a fresh one.

I carry spare inner tubes, and normally just swap out a punctured one,
but the repair kit is a back-up - I can't remember the last time I
used it on the road.
That means that by repairing at home, I keep the stock of solution
turning over so it's always fresh stuff on the bike, and I do my
repairs in comfort and without rushing.

from what i can see on close inspection, glue tubes only seem to dry out
when they get rattled about under the seat, and the aluminum wears
through at pinpoints. the best way to avoid this is to keep the tube in
a small polythene baggie, or better yet, a length of old inner tube
glued at one end and folded at the other. this prevents rubbing, and
thus, prevents the tube pinpointing.

yes, i practice what i preach and have yet to have an opened tube dry
when kept in this way.

Michael Press wrote:
In article ,
somebody wrote:

What's the best patch kit to use in the context of a daily commuter or
moderate distance (20-40 miles) recreational rider? Is it a good idea
to use a larger inner tube size so patches don't have to stretch? I
am currently carrying an extra tube and a glue-type patch kit.

Are any of the glueless patches any good? I was thinking of the Park
glueless patch just to avoid dealing with dried out tubes of glue.

Carry spare tubes, and patch at home.
Rema patches, auto store glue, 80 grit emory cloth.
The road patch kit has a small tube of glue. Be sure
that the solvent has not evaporated from the tube,
as it can even sealed. Leaks through the crimp.


leaking through the crimp is jobstian myth. crimps are proven in
countless other industries and uses and have worked perfectly for over
100 years - absolutely no reason it should bizarrely not work for bikes
unless there is another factor at work. and there is - see previous
message to phil lee.

Phil W Lee wrote:

I always keep the newest tube of rubber solution in the kit on the
bike, and use that to replace the one I keep in the toolkit at home
when the home kit either runs out or dries out.
Once opened, I don't replace rubber solution into the on-bike kit, but
move it into the home toolkit and replace it with a new one.
If I find a dried out tube of solution, I'd rather it was at home,
where I'm not stranded, than out on the road, so that is always a new
sealed tube.
That way, if I do need it on the road, I know it's a fresh one.

Like others, I've opened a fresh tube of cement & found it dry.

"Phil W Lee" phil(at)lee-family(dot)me(dot)uk wrote in message
...
considered Sun, 5 Apr 2009 10:09:18 -0700 (PDT) the
perfect time to write:

On 5 Apr., 14:01, somebody wrote:
What's the best patch kit to use in the context of a daily commuter
or
moderate distance (20-40 miles) recreational rider? Is it a good
idea
to use a larger inner tube size so patches don't have to stretch? I
am currently carrying an extra tube and a glue-type patch kit.

The best patches I have tried are Rema Tip Top F0 patches. They are
sold as patches alone or as patch kits in small boxes called TT01.
Such a box only cost a couple of euro's/dollars so buy several of
them; one box for the road and one or more at your home. I like the F0
patches because they are small and supple unlike the big thick and
hard patches I have tried from other brands.
A good patching strategy for many commuters is to carry one or two
spare tubes in zip-locks and replace tubes when they are punctured
since this is the fastest thing to do. It is also hard to patch tubes
on the road when it is raining or very cold. One can then patch the
punctured tubes in the comfort of ones home when one feels like doing
so. I tend to patch my tubes in batches when I have accumulated
enough.

I can recommend reading this:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html
My patching technique improved a lot after I read the above on _why_
(and how) one should apply sandpaper to the tubes.

Regarding using thicker inner tubes, then I wouldn't bother. I have
never experienced any stretching problems with Rema F0 patches.

Are any of the glueless patches any good? I was thinking of the
Park
glueless patch just to avoid dealing with dried out tubes of glue.

I carry a single glueless Park Tool patch in my regular patch kit.
Never used it, but it may come in handy one day. My LBS warned me that
they could give problems with high pressure tires and tubes before I
bought it.
Buy several TT01 patch kits, and if you patch at home then you don't
need to break the seal on glue tube in the patch kit you carry on your
bike, or you can carry two glue tubes in you patch kit.

I always keep the newest tube of rubber solution in the kit on the
bike, and use that to replace the one I keep in the toolkit at home
when the home kit either runs out or dries out.
Once opened, I don't replace rubber solution into the on-bike kit, but
move it into the home toolkit and replace it with a new one.
If I find a dried out tube of solution, I'd rather it was at home,
where I'm not stranded, than out on the road, so that is always a new
sealed tube.
That way, if I do need it on the road, I know it's a fresh one.

I usually squeeze out the air after I use the tube and that seems to
help keep the glue fresh from year to year.
I also have some success in using a bottle of Elmers rubber cement for
patching and refilling
the glue tube with a syringe (marine fiber glass repair isle).
I've also tried tube to tube transfer with larger tubes to smaller, this
works just as well.

Cheers

Peter Cole wrote:
Phil W Lee wrote:

I always keep the newest tube of rubber solution in the kit on the
bike, and use that to replace the one I keep in the toolkit at home
when the home kit either runs out or dries out.
Once opened, I don't replace rubber solution into the on-bike kit, but
move it into the home toolkit and replace it with a new one.
If I find a dried out tube of solution, I'd rather it was at home,
where I'm not stranded, than out on the road, so that is always a new
sealed tube.
That way, if I do need it on the road, I know it's a fresh one.

Like others, I've opened a fresh tube of cement & found it dry.

don't you think it strange that it can sit on the shelf of a store for
months, even years, and be perfect every single time, yet as soon as you
rattle it around in the bag under your saddle for a few weeks, suddenly
it's dry? ever wondered why that might be?

if you clean the tube properly, per manufacturer instruction, they bond
just fine. the adhesive they use is quite advanced when sticking to
rubber, not crud or mold release wax.
what is ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ?

wrote:
Martin Riddle wrote:

...

I always keep the newest tube of rubber solution in the kit on the
bike, and use that to replace the one I keep in the toolkit at home
when the home kit either runs out or dries out.

Once opened, I don't replace rubber solution into the on-bike kit,
but move it into the home toolkit and replace it with a new one.
If I find a dried out tube of solution, I'd rather it was at home,
where I'm not stranded, than out on the road, so that is always a
new sealed tube. That way, if I do need it on the road, I know
it's a fresh one.

I usually squeeze out the air after I use the tube and that seems to
help keep the glue fresh from year to year. I also have some
success in using a bottle of Elmer's rubber cement for patching and
refilling the glue tube with a syringe (marine fiber glass repair
isle). I've also tried tube to tube transfer with larger tubes to
smaller, this works just as well.

Better yet, epoxy two tube caps back-to-back, drill a hole through,
and use this for tube-to-tube transfers. I did this for touring tooth
paste tubes to refill gratis mini demo give away tubes from a large
family size tube. Those tiny tubes are great for bicycle touring but
hard to find, so I reuse them.

Squeezing the tube of glue when vertical with fluid just level with
the open end (up) is a good way to replace the cap. Just the same, as
others have mentioned, they have opened new tubes (with the metal tube
closure not yet punctured) to find them dry, or at least with the
contents no longer fluid, indicating the crimp must be the leak.

I believe that closure of the factory filled tube, standing on its
head, is made with no glue in the crimp zone, something that could
retard evaporation. In any event, I believe it best to store bicycle
tire glue (the small tubes) cap end up so the crimp is under water so
to speak. I believe unused tubes that have dried out have become so
by experiencing large temperature changes and pumped themselves dry
through a dry crimp.

jobst, crimps are tight. every can of food you buy for instance -
that's crimped. you know, the one you can keep in the earthquake
emergency kit for years. and it's not full of glue.

just buy a decent magnifier, examine your "dry" tube under it, and check
out the holes that have worn through the thin aluminum. [while you're
about it, maybe you can bother to examine the fatigue fracture surfaces
on some broken spokes and witness that fatigue does not initiate where
there may be residual stress.]

oh, and one last thing - by definition, solvent diffuses even through
"solid" glue, so even a "wet" crimp can't stop it drying out.

hth.

Henry wrote:
if you clean the tube properly, per manufacturer instruction, they bond
just fine. the adhesive they use is quite advanced when sticking to
rubber, not crud or mold release wax.
what is ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ?

most tubes have a coating of wax, powder, or whatever that's

a. left over from manufacture.

b. helps ensure the tube doesn't stick to the tire in use.

for an airtight tube, it's a good thing. for a punctured tube, it needs
to be removed before patch glue adheres properly. hence the small piece
of abrasive you get in quality patch kits.

some people go for a solvent solution to this removal, but abrasion
helps remove surface oxides too, thus better exposing fresh rubber for
bonding than a solvent can.

TRY NOT TUBE STUPID

carry two fresh tubes

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCEqP...=26664&eid=355

or the plain thornproof.

leave patches at home.

are the 'expensive' euro ovals in foil better. YES !