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Recommended bike for tall person in urban area
Hello, I'm not too knowledgable on what the differences are between
various types (road/mountain/etc.) and makers, so I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion. I live in Tokyo and love covering the city on my bike. I currently have what they call a "mama-chari", which essentially is a cheap aluminum job from China with fenders and a basket. It does ok, but with constant road construction and bumpy sidewalks, it wears me out after a while (though I don't feel like my leg muscles are really getting a good workout). Anyway, I was looking for a bike that would be well suited for a long day (8+ hrs) out through the city, over sidewalks, main streets, back alleys, etc. It's may also worth noting that I am rather tall (almost 190cm) but quite slim. I suppose I want to buy one of the largest bikes I can find? (what would that be?) I've read that steel frames and "traditional" geometry ones are more desirable than aluminum, compact frames. I'm not sure how relevant this is. I love the feeling of cruising through the city more than almost anything, so I'm willing to pay for at least a mid-level bike. If anyone has a suggestion for a type/maker, or what particular points/elements I should look for/compare to, I'd be much obliged. Thank you!! |
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#2
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"HeroOfSpielburg" wrote in message
om... Hello, I'm not too knowledgable on what the differences are between various types (road/mountain/etc.) and makers, so I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion. I live in Tokyo and love covering the city on my bike. I currently have what they call a "mama-chari", which essentially is a cheap aluminum job from China with fenders and a basket. It does ok, but with constant road construction and bumpy sidewalks, it wears me out after a while (though I don't feel like my leg muscles are really getting a good workout). Anyway, I was looking for a bike that would be well suited for a long day (8+ hrs) out through the city, over sidewalks, main streets, back alleys, etc. Is an "urban" bike available to you in Tokyo? I'm thinking of something like the REI Buzz: http://www.rei.com/online/store/Prod...ory_rn=4502048 -- Warm Regards, Claire Petersky please substitute yahoo for mousepotato to reply Home of the meditative cyclist: http://home.earthlink.net/~cpetersky/Welcome.htm Personal page: http://www.geocities.com/cpetersky/ See the books I've set free at: http://bookcrossing.com/referral/Cpetersky |
#3
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Hero-san asked about what type of bike to ride in Tokyo.
When I lived near Tokyo over 20 years ago it seemed there were competent frame builders all over the place, although most bikes on the street were mass-produced but servicable bikes like your mama-chari. I imagine you could find a real bike shop and they could help you out. I think I would avoid the depato stores, but my observations are 20 years out of date. I was a teen and owned a junky BMX-style kid bike but I often rode my dad's custom bike, a very sweet road/touring bike. This was on the junky roads all over the town I lived in. I don't recall there being sidewalks where I lived. I always rode in the street in conditions that would horrify most of today's bike lane advocates. My first bike-car collision was when I was about 12 years old and I mis-judged a gap and *I* knocked the side mirror off of a car. My friends hurried off while I muttered gomenesais to the driver as I picked up the mirror and dropped it through his open window. I used the mama-chari for shopping trips for bokuno okasan. For all-day and long distances, nothing beats a touring bike with drop bars. Mountain, hybrid, and commuter bikes are suited more for shorter distance riding, though their wider tires means they do better in rough conditions. In your case, it seems either touring or commuter bikes would work well in different ways. Personally, I would use a touring bike with 28mm or wider tires, but that's because I can't handle flat handlebars for much more than seven or eight miles. Other people have much better luck with them and a commuter or hybrid works well for them, even with longer distances. RFM http://www.masoner.net/bike/ |
#4
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HeroOfSpielburg says...
Hello, I'm not too knowledgable on what the differences are between various types (road/mountain/etc.) and makers, so I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion. I live in Tokyo and love covering the city on my bike. I currently have what they call a "mama-chari", which essentially is a cheap aluminum job from China with fenders and a basket. It does ok, but with constant road construction and bumpy sidewalks, it wears me out after a while (though I don't feel like my leg muscles are really getting a good workout). Anyway, I was looking for a bike that would be well suited for a long day (8+ hrs) out through the city, over sidewalks, main streets, back alleys, etc. It's may also worth noting that I am rather tall (almost 190cm) but quite slim. I suppose I want to buy one of the largest bikes I can find? (what would that be?) I've read that steel frames and "traditional" geometry ones are more desirable than aluminum, compact frames. I'm not sure how relevant this is. I love the feeling of cruising through the city more than almost anything, so I'm willing to pay for at least a mid-level bike. If anyone has a suggestion for a type/maker, or what particular points/elements I should look for/compare to, I'd be much obliged. Thank you!! If you love urban riding, get a full suspension mountain bike and mount slick tires. Nothing else compares. I don't know what is available, but I would think that at the very least Giant bikes would be common. Road bikes are fragile and harsh for urban riding. Hybrids aren't much better and usually have cheesy components like cheap suspension forks and suspension seatposts that either don't work or won't last, or both. |
#5
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On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 14:54:29 +0000, Super Slinky wrote:
If you love urban riding, get a full suspension mountain bike and mount slick tires. Nothing else compares. Really now, why do you want to haul around ten pounds of unecessary weight on a bike that you can't mount a proper rack or fenders onto? Nothing else compares because nothing else could come close to being as impractical. I'm going to agree with a lot of folks and recommend the touring/cyclocross bike route. Get a big frame so that you can get the bars up to saddle height or higher. I think drop bars are most comfy, but that's up to you. I like steel bikes better since many of the aluminum models are overbuilt, giving a harsh ride. That's not to say that there aren't some nice aluminum models to be found. Jamis makes affordable bikes in this category. Mount full coverage fenders and a nice sturdy rack with panniers for all the tchochkes you'll find pedaling about. You might want to get a suspension seatpost, but most of your suspension on such a ride will be from decent tires such as a set of Continental top tour, or Schwalbe Marathon. 700x35 or therebouts would be a good size. |
#6
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Hero-san wrote:
I've read that steel frames and "traditional" geometry ones are more desirable than aluminum, compact frames. I'm not sure how relevant this is. I forgot to address this part of your inquiry in my earlier response. The geometry is the angles of the tubes in your frame. More relaxed geometries such as found in touring bikes, commuters, and hybrids result in a ride that's not as stiff as that in the tighter geometries of many modern road bikes. RFM |
#7
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On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 09:44:05 -0800, Fritz M wrote:
The geometry is the angles of the tubes in your frame. More relaxed geometries such as found in touring bikes, commuters, and hybrids result in a ride that's not as stiff as that in the tighter geometries of many modern road bikes. Not to be contrary...but I thing the geometry has much more to do with how a bike handles, The more relaxed the angles, the more "comfy" it feels in the sense that it's less responsive and "twitchy" like a race bike. I'd say tubing gauge, type, and composition would have more impact on the amount of road vibrations encountered and the feeling of rigidity. Rigidity is a double edged sword--it makes the bike less comfortable, but increases efficiency at time, like when you're standing and hammering it on a hill. Your energy then goes to the rear wheel, and not into bending the frame. I'm of the ride a compliant frame and learn to gently spin school of riding myself. :P I was looking at a bunch of bikes on the web the other day, touring, cyclocross, and road, and it did seem to me that the head and seat angles were pretty much the same, perhaps with the touring frame a degree shallower. The biggest difference seemed to be with the wheelbase, the touring/cyclocross bikes were quite a bit longer in the top tube and chainstay areas. |
#8
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: I was looking at a bunch of bikes on the web the other day, touring, : cyclocross, and road, and it did seem to me that the head and seat angles : were pretty much the same, perhaps with the touring frame a degree : shallower. The biggest difference seemed to be with the wheelbase, : the touring/cyclocross bikes were quite a bit longer in the top tube : and chainstay areas. my touring bike (an 84 Schwinn) handles like a plow horse; my road bike (2001 Bianchi Veloce) is like riding a mosquito. the frame geometry is more relaxed on the touring bike and i can feel it in the stable ride, resistance to turning, no ability to accelerate, and climbing difficulty. pat in TX |
#9
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On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 20:10:24 -0600, Pat wrote:
resistance to turning, no ability to accelerate, and climbing difficulty. I'll buy your "resistance to turning" since that's the idea--long term stable comfort with a leisurely turn here and there, but the no ability to accelerate and difficulty with climbing are pretty subjective. Certainly a pedal masher will experience maximum efficiency with an extremely rigid bike, but that same rider could also pedal at a more efficient cadence and by using technique, pour more energy into speed than into the frame. I'd be the first guy in class to recommend the super rigid frame to mister thunderthighs low rpm sprinter dude, that makes sense. :P I think a lot of average riders would benefit a lot more from learning to spin more efficiently, something that's a lot cheaper than just buying the latest super duper frameset... |
#10
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"maxo" wrote
Not to be contrary...but I thing the geometry has much more to do with how a bike handles, The more relaxed the angles, the more "comfy" it feels in the sense that it's less responsive and "twitchy" like a race bike. I'd say tubing gauge, type, and composition would have more impact on the amount of road vibrations encountered and the feeling of rigidity. Rigidity is a double edged sword--it makes the bike less comfortable, but increases efficiency at time, like when you're standing and hammering it on a hill. Your energy then goes to the rear wheel, and not into bending the frame. I'm of the ride a compliant frame and learn to gently spin school of riding myself. :P Congratulations, every frame myth in one paragraph. |
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