Road Unicycle Set-Up and T7 Handle Modification

GizmoDuck;1167477 wrote:
I don't get the r-frame (I called it the 7-frame). It looks just like
what people have currently (long poles sticking out the front). The
only difference is that it is less upright than what most people run.

The reason for the T-frame was to have two short poles rather than one
long one. I think the r-frame/7-frame would have the same problems with
strength/flex which I was trying to point out in this thread.

Someone should do another graphic with a bike and
V-frame/R-frame/T-frame superimposed. See if you can line up the
handlebars and seat.



Like this?


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GizmoDuck;1167349 wrote:
I'm craving some roadie bars...not so much for the drops, I really want
to ride the hoods on this set-up!

Another thing to consider....is there any reason for road unicyclists
to ride as if they were going to UPD all the time?

At over 20km/hr, what are your chances of running out of a UPD? Either
way, you will end up on the ground. In fact, I think one of the reasons
why unicyclists have such horrific ankle and leg injuries is to do with
the way we fall. Bicyclists tend to scrape off alot of skin when they
fall (usually to the side), or break their clavicle/wrist if they went
over the bar. Unicyclists tend to fall with their legs hitting the
ground at funny angles....I think many of you have seen my Xrays and
other Xrays on this forum.

If you are riding a bike, you are not consciously thinking about how
you are going to fall. You try not to in the first place! I think we
need to get away from the mentality that if you fall off a unicycle, you
need to be able to run it out. Especially when you are going at
25km/hr....that's just not practical.



I think there is a reason to think you will UPD. I did not UPD at Ride
The Lobster on my geared 29er (I don't think I did at least...). With
my geared 36 in the month that I have had it I have only had one high
speed UPD, I have no idea what happened, but I remember flying off the
front of the uni and just barely able to (sort of) run it out (at over
20kph). I took a few strides and then fell down.

I had no injury at all, not even a scrape. If I had been using
clipless or half clip pedals, or if I had a bulky handlebar, I can't
imagine what the aftermath would have been, but it definitely wouldn't
have been as clean as what did happen.

I have had two falls with the geared 36 so far. One was in low gear
going very slow on a sidewalk looking at a crosswalk symbol and not
noticing the huge pothole ahead of me, and one was in high gear when I
hit an unexpected bump on my cycle trail shortly after switching to a T7
handle. I feel like I have the most control of my unicycle over bumps
when using a handle like the GB4 or just using the stock KH handle,
which is why I like Corbin's handle where he has hand holds out far for
tucking in, and hand holds close for "power grips".

Sure, road unicyclists very rarely UPD/fall, but it does happen,
sometimes when you would least expect it. It happens to me when riding
on bumpy cycle paths sometimes, and hardly ever on the road. The point
being that...we definitely fall more than bicyclists, and our gear needs
to be a little different.


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siafirede;1167485 wrote:

Sure, road unicyclists very rarely UPD/fall, but it does happen,
sometimes when you would least expect it. It happens to me when riding
on bumpy cycle paths sometimes, and hardly ever on the road. The point
being that...we definitely fall more than bicyclists, and our gear needs
to be a little different.



On the other hand, I've broken my ankle and also my Tibia/Fibula. Both
at fairly low speed compared to riding a bike. But the way I landed is
entirely due to the mechanics of a unicycle. If I had the sort of
set-up as a bike, or even if I had been clipped in, I think I'd have
gotten away with just a few scrapes/lost skin.


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munirocks;1167463 wrote:
Well, the thing is that the more I tilt the saddle downwards, the harder
it gets to ride without both hands on the handle, because with that
center of gravity I would slide down to the front... Although I keep my
hands on the handle most of the time anyways, I would like to keep the
ability to take my hands off for a moment.



Your setup looks extremely similar to what I tried. I think if you are
using a bike seat i would forget about the idea of riding without hands.
In the very limited testing I did I quickly came to the conclusion that
the bike seat is extremely uncomfortable when ridden upright with no
weight on the handles.

Just think about how that pointy end of the bike seat would feel as it
prevents the rest of the unicycle from rotating backwards.


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It may take a couple of months, as he is pretty busy, but I am having
Rick Hunter get started on a V frame for me. If the "head tube" is a
fork steer tube it would allow you to vary the handle bar position by
size and placement of a standard bicycle stem.

With this in mind, does anyone have dimension, spacing and/or angle
suggestions? Should the seat tube and/or head tube follow the line of
the V stays or should one or both turn perpendicular to the ground? The
owner of the green V frame noted that the seperation of the stays at the
outside of the tire should be 10 inches, if I am able to adjust bar
placement with stems as noted above is that still a good measurement or
should the V be tighter to reduce frame flex?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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mtnjeffe;1167509 wrote:
It may take a couple of months, as he is pretty busy, but I am having
Rick Hunter get started on a V frame for me. If the "head tube" is a
fork steer tube it would allow you to vary the handle bar position by
size and placement of a standard bicycle stem.

With this in mind, does anyone have dimension, spacing and/or angle
suggestions? Should the seat tube and/or head tube follow the line of
the V stays or should one or both turn perpendicular to the ground? The
owner of the green V frame noted that the seperation of the stays at the
outside of the tire should be 10 inches, if I am able to adjust bar
placement with stems as noted above is that still a good measurement or
should the V be tighter to reduce frame flex?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.



Cool!

I would say that in terms of dimensions, it depends on your height and
reach. I suspect that you could use the same reach (top-tube+stem) as a
bike. From my prelimiary testing using the T7 T-frame set-up, I'm
almost certain of it. I think even Pete Perons V-frame could do with a
longer reach (notice on photos that he has quite an arched back, rather
than a straight back). If it was a bike, you'd be going up a size or
two. The stem will allow you to adjust angle and reach somewhat, but it
will be limited more by angle of the V-frame.

I'm guessing that you may want to have the seat-tube/heatube of the
V-frame at similar angles to what you would find on a bike. The main
reason being, that seatposts and stems tend to be designed for bikes.
If the angles were too extreme, you might find it hard to get a
satisfactory adjustment on the seatpost and stems.


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The V frame looks like a realy good setup for distance and racing
unicycles.
Maybe if there is a big demand, Nimbus might make 29" and 36" frame
like that.µ
Lets all mail unicycle.uk today


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manon1wheel wrote:
no offense but deads look plain old gross...
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Probailer2;1167538 wrote:
The V frame looks like a realy good setup for distance and racing
unicycles.
Maybe if there is a big demand, Nimbus might make 29" and 36" frame
like that.µ
Lets all mail unicycle.uk today



The other thing I wondered is whether we could cannibalise the current
Nimbus 36" frame and just reweld the tubes at a greater angle, and add a
headtube, to create a V-frame. It seems that the double tube/triangle
design is wasted on the Nimbus because it doesn't seem to do anything at
the moment.

By the way, this is the handlebar I want for my V-frame/T-frame. It's
a TT bar but made for your hands to hold onto:


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as i said, i'm not really a road-rider so this are only guesses:
cut the nimbus would be a great idea, but i think it doesen't fit a
kh/schlumpf hub or does it?
is the T frame not stiff enough or to weak? what do you think?

For a tall person the V frame has to be with a big angle (heavy) or the
top tube has to be longer then the V (is that understandable?)

...upd: sure the best way is not to, but today i had one with the
flipped T7 setup with 25km/h i could run it out (was a upd in the front
one), but with a wider bar it will be disgusting...also for aerodynamic
isn't it the best thing...

edit: had a look to the nimbus frame: i guess the cuuting and rewelding
thing wouldn't work, the top tube will touch the whell...or am i wrong?


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turtle;1167544 wrote:
as i said, i'm not really a road-rider so this are only guesses:
cut the nimbus would be a great idea, but i think it doesen't fit a
kh/schlumpf hub or does it?
is the T frame not stiff enough or to weak? what do you think?

For a tall person the V frame has to be with a big angle (heavy) or the
top tube has to be longer then the V (is that understandable?)

...upd: sure the best way is not to, but today i had one with the
flipped T7 setup with 25km/h i could run it out (was a upd in the front
one), but with a wider bar it will be disgusting...also for aerodynamic
isn't it the best thing...

edit: had a look to the nimbus frame: i guess the cuuting and rewelding
thing wouldn't work, the top tube will touch the whell...or am i wrong?



I don't know if the Nimbus thing will work. Either way, I'm building up
a V-frame from scratch. I'll leave that project for someone else

As for the V-frame being heavy...it could be made of lightweight bike
tubing. My bike frame weights almost the same as my unicycle
frame....and it has about three times as many tubes!!! It's a stronger
design, so the parts can be made lighter. Right now, to have a
handlebar on single-fork unicycle, you need that bar to be superheavy,
and it's still prone to snapping (I've seen about 5 broken T7's, and
numerous other r-frame designs with broken handlesbars).

in terms of aerodynamics, we're talking 'wide' bars that are used on
roadbikes. You don't see many people in the Tour de France riding on
handlebars as wide as the T7 do you? Even in the time trials.

I'm still sceptical about the need to design a unicycle to allow you to
UPD, just in case. A while ago, people said drafting on a unicycle was
a bad idea too...but it worked really well at RTL and Unicon.


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