External-bearing BBs?

On May 14, 8:49*pm, A Muzi wrote:
*A Muzi wrote:
Huh. Our customer thought "650-B" was just an optional 'serving
suggestion' :
http://www.yellowjersey.org/kmdg.html
bfd wrote:
Interesting. Did you spec'd it with 700c (622mm) wheels? It doesn't
look like there's alot of clearance for a front fender.
On a side note, I've seen exactly two riding around in the SF Bay
Area. Both were older folks just cruizin' around. Seems very expensive
(they cost what, about $2500-3500 to build up!) for a cruizer....
*A Muzi wrote:
It's a "650B" frame built here with 700-28 Paselas (& 1010B frame ends!).
Sometimes it isn't about price. Name a 'comparable' teal color girl
frame with cutaway lugs that's actually available.
Ryan Cousineau wrote:
Did your shop do the horizontal-drop mod yourself? If so, the color
match is impressive.

That's not my work. I just lay the frame on the counter at the paint
store and the Paint Gnomes do their color match magic. I merely
airbrushed it in.

It looks like you heated the old dropout to get it out. Did you worry
about melting that joint above the drop out, or was it too far away?
-- Jay Beattie.

Andre Jute writes:

Ireland has enjoyed an economic boom since about 1990 and it shows in
the roads. The potholes are gone, and the one-car lanes I ride on
daily have been resurfaced several times since the last time there
were potholes in them.

Maybe, but alignment-wise, even some of the major roads still
essentially look like one-car lanes. Just check out the N9 connecting
Dublin and Waterford.

A Muzi wrote:
Huh. Our customer thought "650-B" was just an optional 'serving
suggestion' :
http://www.yellowjersey.org/kmdg.html

bfd wrote:
Interesting. Did you spec'd it with 700c (622mm) wheels? It doesn't
look like there's alot of clearance for a front fender.
On a side note, I've seen exactly two riding around in the SF Bay
Area. Both were older folks just cruizin' around. Seems very expensive
(they cost what, about $2500-3500 to build up!) for a cruizer....

A Muzi wrote:
It's a "650B" frame built here with 700-28 Paselas (& 1010B frame ends!).
Sometimes it isn't about price. Name a 'comparable' teal color girl
frame with cutaway lugs that's actually available.

Ryan Cousineau wrote:
Did your shop do the horizontal-drop mod yourself? If so, the color
match is impressive.

A Muzi wrote:
That's not my work. I just lay the frame on the counter at the paint
store and the Paint Gnomes do their color match magic. I merely
airbrushed it in.

Jay Beattie wrote:
It looks like you heated the old dropout to get it out. Did you worry
about melting that joint above the drop out, or was it too far away?

Frame end changes are a local process, examples:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/endweld.html

you can see the extent of the heat on paint in some photos

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On May 15, 12:24 am, Jay Beattie wrote:

It looks like you heated the old dropout to get it out. Did you worry
about melting that joint above the drop out, or was it too far away?

I've done some brazing work on an old frame. Wet rags seemed to work
well as heat sinks to prevent damage to nearby joints.

- Frank Krygowski

A Muzi Wrote:
A Muzi wrote:
Huh. Our customer thought "650-B" was just an optional 'serving
suggestion' :
http://www.yellowjersey.org/kmdg.html

bfd wrote:
Interesting. Did you spec'd it with 700c (622mm) wheels? It
doesn't
look like there's alot of clearance for a front fender.
On a side note, I've seen exactly two riding around in the SF
Bay
Area. Both were older folks just cruizin' around. Seems very
expensive
(they cost what, about $2500-3500 to build up!) for a
cruizer....

A Muzi wrote:
It's a "650B" frame built here with 700-28 Paselas (& 1010B frame
ends!).
Sometimes it isn't about price. Name a 'comparable' teal color
girl
frame with cutaway lugs that's actually available.

Ryan Cousineau wrote:
Did your shop do the horizontal-drop mod yourself? If so, the
color
match is impressive.

A Muzi wrote:
That's not my work. I just lay the frame on the counter at the
paint
store and the Paint Gnomes do their color match magic. I merely
airbrushed it in.

Jay Beattie wrote:
It looks like you heated the old dropout to get it out. Did you
worry
about melting that joint above the drop out, or was it too far away?

Frame end changes are a local process, examples:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/endweld.html

you can see the extent of the heat on paint in some photos

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
Does your rear derailer test deal with the "low stop" being to liberal?
or what?
Yes, some people read what you write and appreciate it too.


--
daveornee

A Muzi wrote:
Huh. Our customer thought "650-B" was just an optional 'serving
suggestion' :
http://www.yellowjersey.org/kmdg.html
bfd wrote:
Interesting. Did you spec'd it with 700c (622mm) wheels? It
doesn't
look like there's alot of clearance for a front fender.
On a side note, I've seen exactly two riding around in the SF
Bay
Area. Both were older folks just cruizin' around. Seems very
expensive
(they cost what, about $2500-3500 to build up!) for a
cruizer....

A Muzi wrote:
It's a "650B" frame built here with 700-28 Paselas (& 1010B frame
ends!).
Sometimes it isn't about price. Name a 'comparable' teal color
girl
frame with cutaway lugs that's actually available.
Ryan Cousineau wrote:
Did your shop do the horizontal-drop mod yourself? If so, the
color
match is impressive.
A Muzi wrote:
That's not my work. I just lay the frame on the counter at the
paint
store and the Paint Gnomes do their color match magic. I merely
airbrushed it in.
Jay Beattie wrote:
It looks like you heated the old dropout to get it out. Did you
worry
about melting that joint above the drop out, or was it too far away?

A Muzi Wrote:
Frame end changes are a local process, examples:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/endweld.html
you can see the extent of the heat on paint in some photos

daveornee wrote:
Does your rear derailer test deal with the "low stop" being to liberal?
or what?
Yes, some people read what you write and appreciate it too.

If you press hard in the body itself there can be no mistake. You'd be
surprised how many bicycles come in on any given day with a gear changer
wrapped around a spoke. That's a wrecked wheel, twisted chain, broken
changer and often with a broken frame tab to boot!

Setting the limit casually can falsely assume that the last click is as
far in as it will go. The day the rider presses harder it goes just a
bit farther, often fatally.

Checking low gear stop rigorously is a good idea I think!
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

I had an FSA SLK outboard Mega Exo bearing set on OEM carbon fiber
Specialized Roubaix fail after 5000 miles. After removing the crank axle
assembly, I could feel the bearings grind as they rotated, mostly on the
right (drive) side. I was told by my LBS that is not that uncommon. They
recommended Phil's bearing cartridge which I had installed. However, I am
wondering why a BB failed after 5000 miles. Could this be some sort of
"alignment" problem between the left and right bearing cups so that
inordinate pressure is being exerted on one point in the right bearing
cartridge and Phils will wear out in 5000 miles also? If so, how would this
be determined and should I bother?

Of possible interest before the complete failure was the appearance of what
I initially thought was a blue plastic loop that was folded on itself and
seemed wedged in between the left crank and the BB cup. I initially thought
it was road crap that I picked up and had wound around my crank. I only
discovered later that it was the blue plastic that covered the "Crush
Washer" that needs to be installed on the left side of the axle after the
axle has has been inserted through the installed left BB cup. The "Crush
Washer" functions to remove play between the left crank and the axle after
inserting the left crank onto the axle and tightening. I was wondering if
this crush washer had received the reciprocal imbalanced pressure and then
shredded internally before being extruded our between the left crank and the
left BB shell.

Overall, I am not impressed with these outboard cup BBs.


"Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com" wrote in
message
...
On May 12, 2:29 pm, Joao de Souza wrote:
Quick question on external-bearing BBs: Are they all compatible? Are the
shaft diameters and spacing of these integrated cranks the same? I
haven't worked on enough of these to find out by myself yet.

I have a Shimano FC-R700 crankset, and someone near me is selling a set
of Zipp ceramic external-bearing BB for cheap, but need to know if the
two are compatible before putting my money down.

Don't think they are compatible. Use a shimano BB, and when the
bearing goes south, have a competent bike shop replace those bearings
with Phil bearings. Ceramic(hybrid no doubt), unless the same price,
isn't a good place to put your $, IMO.

On May 13, 10:06*pm, wrote:

Oh, this shows the Isis crank interface, which is dead anyway because
it is a flawed design based on the wrong assumptions about
steel-to-aluminum interfaces. *We have also read about spindle
failures, here in this newsgroup. *However, the endless pdf does not
show what locates the spindle in the bearings, radially or axially.
--
Jobst Brandt

The spindle is located radially by a slip fit in the ID of the
bearings. It is fixed to the right crank with a press fit. On the left
crank, it is tightened onto splines, and axially preloaded (on my XTR)
with a thread and nut system on the left crank arm.
http://www.cyclesuperstore.ie/shop/p...xtrinstall.jpg

Most every slip fit axle/spindle over cartridge bearing design I've
used develops some noise. And while I haven't seen it yet, it
certainly is possible for external aluminum bearing retainers to
develop some issues with threads or alignment. I've obtained a not yet
general release XTR carbon fiber bearing holders that would seem to
solve a number of issues. They do require a 92 mm unthreaded BB shell
though so will not retrofit. No threads, no thread or alignment
issues. And incredible support compared to external retainers. And
something else new barely visible on the second link below is that
there is a plastic dust cap extending into the ID of the bearing
(sorry, I'm not in a position to take better pictures). The spindle
slips onto this plastic rather than the metal of the cartridge
bearing. This should eliminate the noise of the old interface. I'll
have to see when I've built my new frame.
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830625426.pdf
http://www.pivotcycles.com/tech.php

This represents a very cool evolution of the external oversized
bearing systems since the original Magic and Sweet systems started the
whole thing. When this carbon fiber BB bearing holder becomes
available in a 30mm size, things will get significantly lighter,
stronger, and stiffer and we will not have to depend on proprietary
systems from Cannondale and Trek for something better. It is not
proprietary in the sense that a number of cranks will fit onto this
system without modification where Cannondale and Trek cranks only fit
one bike.

In article ,
A Muzi wrote:

If you press hard in the body itself there can be no mistake. You'd be
surprised how many bicycles come in on any given day with a gear changer
wrapped around a spoke. That's a wrecked wheel, twisted chain, broken
changer and often with a broken frame tab to boot!

Setting the limit casually can falsely assume that the last click is as
far in as it will go. The day the rider presses harder it goes just a
bit farther, often fatally.

Checking low gear stop rigorously is a good idea I think!

Andrew, I changed to different size cogwheels on the
rear wheel. Putting things back called for checking and
setting the derailleur so I remembered that advice. On
the largest cogwheel it seemed OK when pushing, but I was
not happy. Shifted the derailleur and chain to the second
largest cogwheel and pushed on the derailleur. Bingo!
into the spokes. Now the large cogwheel derailleur stop
is set properly. Thanks for the help.

--
Michael Press