Chainline question for Fuji Track

I have a Fuji Track bike. The chainline was slightly off from new - the
chainring is further outboard than the sprocket by about 2mm. This is
enough of a difference to prevent use of a bushed chain, which crackles
in protest, and a bushless KMC chain still chatters slightly, which is
getting annoying and presumably won't do the chainring, chain and
sprocket much good.

I've measured the chainline as 37.6mm front and 35.6mm rear, both of
which seem rather low compared to a "standard" 42mm. The sprocket (EAI
at the moment) *is* a long way from the rear dropout and the chainring
is mounted on the inside of the spider, presumably to compensate for the
small chainline at the rear. In fact, the spider on the crank cannot
take a ring on the outside - there are no "flats".

The rear hub is a cheap Quando - are these known for having a duff
chainline? I'm reluctant to respace the wheel to get the chainline
right because I will then need to dish it (making it weaker).
Presumably the cheap solution is a shorter BB, and the expensive
solution is to rebuild the wheel with a proper track hub and then use a
longer BB?

"Defendit numerus" - Anonymous
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 21:14:34 +0100, Zog The Undeniable
wrote:

I've measured the chainline as 37.6mm front and 35.6mm rear, both of
which seem rather low compared to a "standard" 42mm.

Put a 2 mm. spacer (the kind used for shimming bottom bracket fixed
cups or freewheels) between the hubshell and the sprocket. That'll
reconcile the difference you measured without having to make further
modification.

-------------------------------
John Dacey
Business Cycles, Miami, Florida
Since 1983
Comprehensive catalogue of track equipment: online since 1996.
http://www.businesscycles.com

"John Dacey" wrote in message
...
"Defendit numerus" - Anonymous
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 21:14:34 +0100, Zog The Undeniable
wrote:

I've measured the chainline as 37.6mm front and 35.6mm rear, both of
which seem rather low compared to a "standard" 42mm.

Put a 2 mm. spacer (the kind used for shimming bottom bracket fixed
cups or freewheels) between the hubshell and the sprocket. That'll
reconcile the difference you measured without having to make further
modification.

-------------------------------
John Dacey
Business Cycles, Miami, Florida
Since 1983
Comprehensive catalogue of track equipment: online since 1996.
http://www.businesscycles.com

Just curious, how did you measure 35.6mm for the rear?
-tom

"Varia sors rerum." - Tacitus
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 14:19:46 -0700, "Tom Nakashima"
wrote:

"John Dacey" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 21:14:34 +0100, Zog The Undeniable
wrote:

I've measured the chainline as 37.6mm front and 35.6mm rear, both of
which seem rather low compared to a "standard" 42mm.

Put a 2 mm. spacer (the kind used for shimming bottom bracket fixed
cups or freewheels) between the hubshell and the sprocket. That'll
reconcile the difference you measured without having to make further
modification.

Just curious, how did you measure 35.6mm for the rear?
-tom

I didn't measure them: those were the numbers provided by the OP.
Although they seem rather closer to the bike's centerline than the
common chainline rendered using premium track-specific cranks and
hubs, I'm neither sufficiently familiar with either the subject Fuji
bike nor its components to challenge his findings.

-------------------------------
John Dacey
Business Cycles, Miami, Florida
Since 1983
Comprehensive catalogue of track equipment: online since 1996.
http://www.businesscycles.com

John Dacey wrote:

I didn't measure them: those were the numbers provided by the OP.
Although they seem rather closer to the bike's centerline than the
common chainline rendered using premium track-specific cranks and
hubs, I'm neither sufficiently familiar with either the subject Fuji
bike nor its components to challenge his findings.

Vernier calipers. Thinking on this a bit, it may be a hub originally
designed for 110mm OLN, with extra spacers and a longer axle. That
would account for the weird chainline.

I'll try freewheel spacers under the sprocket but the practicality of
this will depend on whether the lockring still engages. I already have
a 1mm thick Campag spacer in the toolbox so I'll try that first.