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Single speed recumbent



 
 
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  #1  
Old November 12th 04, 10:24 PM
Danny Colyer
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Default Single speed recumbent

I had a taster today of what that might be like. Yesterday I had a few
problems with my rear indexing. This morning I found that whenever I
tried to shift to a bigger sprocket, I couldn't shift as far as I wanted
to. 3/4 mile from home I stopped to investigate and found that the
cable had snapped, so I was stuck on the smallest sprocket.

I had to decide then whether it was better to keep going or to head home
and change bikes. I decided to keep going. With a fully functioning
triple chainset I had a choice of 3 gears - 63", 95" or 118". With no
serious downhills on my commute using the 118" gear was out of the
question. Fortunately 63" is only just below the range of gear sizes
that I usually use on the flat, so it was useable. I even used the 95"
gear for about a mile.

So, not too bad (wouldn't want to repeat it regularly), but it was
bloody hard work starting off and getting up hills. I was surprised
that I managed the hill up to the office, and even more surprised that I
managed the climb out of the ring road underpass on the way home - 4mph,
a 63" gear where I usually use a gear half that size.

--
Danny Colyer (the UK company has been laughed out of my reply address)
URL:http://www.speedy5.freeserve.co.uk/danny/
"He who dares not offend cannot be honest." - Thomas Paine
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  #2  
Old November 13th 04, 09:41 AM
Alan Braggins
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In article , Danny Colyer wrote:
I had a taster today of what that might be like. Yesterday I had a few
problems with my rear indexing. This morning I found that whenever I
tried to shift to a bigger sprocket, I couldn't shift as far as I wanted
to. 3/4 mile from home I stopped to investigate and found that the
cable had snapped, so I was stuck on the smallest sprocket.


With some derailleurs, you can use the limit screw to leave you stuck on
the second smallest sprocket (assuming a suitable screwdriver or substitute).
(I mention this in case anyone finds themself in the same situation and
finds they don't manage it as well as you, not as a criticism.)
Tying a knot in the broken cable to hold it in a lower gear is another
possibility (a stopper knot near the end of a housing, or around the
chainstay, or similar).
  #4  
Old November 13th 04, 03:09 PM
Danny Colyer
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Default

Alan Braggins wrote:
With some derailleurs, you can use the limit screw to leave you stuck on
the second smallest sprocket (assuming a suitable screwdriver or substitute).
(I mention this in case anyone finds themself in the same situation and
finds they don't manage it as well as you, not as a criticism.)


I tried tightening the limit screw, but stopped when I realised that I
wouldn't be able to get any further than the second smallest sprocket,
which in this case would actually have been less useful than the
smallest. Of course it would be a different matter on an upright bike,
where you don't have 4' between the chainset and the sprockets and it's
a bad idea to use the little ring with the smallest sprocket.

Tying a knot in the broken cable to hold it in a lower gear is another
possibility (a stopper knot near the end of a housing, or around the
chainstay, or similar).


I wish I'd thought of trying that.

--
Danny Colyer (the UK company has been laughed out of my reply address)
URL:http://www.speedy5.freeserve.co.uk/danny/
"He who dares not offend cannot be honest." - Thomas Paine
  #5  
Old November 13th 04, 09:57 PM
Mike Causer
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On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 21:38:59 +0000, Alan Braggins wrote:

Bob's suggestion of trapping it under a waterbottle bolt is probably
less likely to slip in a way that leaves you constantly fiddling to
stay adjusted properly. As he says, depends where it breaks though.


But if you've got the tool to undo and retighten a bolt, surely you've
also got the tool to use the limit-screws on the rear-clanger?


Mike

  #6  
Old November 13th 04, 10:12 PM
Richard Bates
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On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 22:24:44 +0000, Danny Colyer
wrote:

I had a taster today of what that might be like. Yesterday I had a few
problems with my rear indexing. This morning I found that whenever I
tried to shift to a bigger sprocket, I couldn't shift as far as I wanted
to. 3/4 mile from home I stopped to investigate and found that the
cable had snapped, so I was stuck on the smallest sprocket.


Am I the only person around here that carries spare cables? 1 gear
cable and 1 brake cable, both cut long enough for the rear?


--
If, as Einstein said, space is curved and occupies ten
dimensions including time; How can you be certain which
is the underneath of a ladder? And how can you be certain
you haven't already walked under one next week?
  #7  
Old November 13th 04, 10:13 PM
Richard Bates
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On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 21:57:58 GMT, Mike Causer
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 21:38:59 +0000, Alan Braggins wrote:

Bob's suggestion of trapping it under a waterbottle bolt is probably
less likely to slip in a way that leaves you constantly fiddling to
stay adjusted properly. As he says, depends where it breaks though.


But if you've got the tool to undo and retighten a bolt, surely you've
also got the tool to use the limit-screws on the rear-clanger?


Am I the only person around here that carries spare cables? 1 gear
cable and 1 brake cable, both cut long enough for the rear?

--
If, as Einstein said, space is curved and occupies ten
dimensions including time; How can you be certain which
is the underneath of a ladder? And how can you be certain
you haven't already walked under one next week?
  #8  
Old November 13th 04, 10:15 PM
MSeries
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Alan Braggins wrote:
In article , Danny Colyer wrote:
I had a taster today of what that might be like. Yesterday I had a
few problems with my rear indexing. This morning I found that
whenever I
tried to shift to a bigger sprocket, I couldn't shift as far as I
wanted to. 3/4 mile from home I stopped to investigate and found
that the
cable had snapped, so I was stuck on the smallest sprocket.


With some derailleurs, you can use the limit screw to leave you stuck
on
the second smallest sprocket (assuming a suitable screwdriver or
substitute). (I mention this in case anyone finds themself in the
same situation and finds they don't manage it as well as you, not as
a criticism.)
Tying a knot in the broken cable to hold it in a lower gear is another
possibility (a stopper knot near the end of a housing, or around the
chainstay, or similar).


Or jam a small stone in the derailleur parrallelogram to hold it at the
right place. Worked for me once.


  #9  
Old November 13th 04, 10:55 PM
Simonb
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Default

Richard Bates wrote:

Am I the only person around here that carries spare cables? 1 gear
cable and 1 brake cable, both cut long enough for the rear?


No. There's at least two of us weirdos who come prepared for anything.


  #10  
Old November 13th 04, 11:08 PM
Call me Bob
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On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 21:57:58 GMT, Mike Causer
wrote:

Bob's suggestion of trapping it under a waterbottle bolt is probably
less likely to slip in a way that leaves you constantly fiddling to
stay adjusted properly. As he says, depends where it breaks though.


But if you've got the tool to undo and retighten a bolt, surely you've
also got the tool to use the limit-screws on the rear-clanger?



The limit screws don't actually give much useful adjustment. Using the
limit screw the OP's derailleur would only hold the chain on the
second smallest cog, still a pretty severe ratio. Trapping the cable
(if it was long enough to allow this solution) would let you to choose
any gear in the cluster. It only needs a single allen key tool as
well, everyone carries allan keys, don't they?


--


Email address is spam trapped, to reply directly remove the beverage.
 




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