Felt F55X

On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 5:41:38 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 4:22:58 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a 24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local California company has the correct size and it should be here in a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.
The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only difference is the shaft diameter?
BB386 is just a press-fit BB30 that is wider, which means that a normal BB30 crank axle will be too short. https://bikerumor.com/2011/12/22/fsa...rison-weights/ A Shimano will work fine with a BB386 and an adapter to reduce the ID. So just buy an adapter. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-adapter...no-cranks.html That seems steep, and you can probably get a cheaper adapter elsewhere.

The BB386 measures 46 or 47 mm in diameter. Hambini who makes BB86 bottom brackets for race teams says that Shimano made is specifically so that you couldn't fit a 30 mm shaft into it. So to make it a Shimano you don't need any adapter, you simply need a bearing with a smaller ID.

On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 7:46:03 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 5:41:38 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 4:22:58 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a 24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local California company has the correct size and it should be here in a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.
The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only difference is the shaft diameter?
BB386 is just a press-fit BB30 that is wider, which means that a normal BB30 crank axle will be too short. https://bikerumor.com/2011/12/22/fsa...rison-weights/ A Shimano will work fine with a BB386 and an adapter to reduce the ID. So just buy an adapter. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-adapter...no-cranks.html That seems steep, and you can probably get a cheaper adapter elsewhere.
The BB386 measures 46 or 47 mm in diameter. Hambini who makes BB86 bottom brackets for race teams says that Shimano made is specifically so that you couldn't fit a 30 mm shaft into it. So to make it a Shimano you don't need any adapter, you simply need a bearing with a smaller ID.

I was too dismissive to start because with any of the press-in BB formats, you can spend a bunch of money on a special version with 24mm ID. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-angular...nks-black.html Normal BB386 is spec'd for 30mm ID, but you could get a hybrid, or you could get a standard PF BB386 bottom bracket, pop the bearings out and press in new bearings with a 24mm ID (don't ask me the bearing number), or you could get a $13 adapter. https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/fsa-red...gclsrc=aw.d s

The adaptor allows you to keep your current bearings and saves you the trouble of finding the right bearing number for a BB386 bearing with 24mm ID. It also saves you the pain of pushing out and pressing in bearings in a PF cup, which is actually harder than mounting bearings in a BB30, IMO. It also gives the next owner the flexibility of using a BB386 crank. The rational thing to do is to to get the cheap FSA adapters.

And yes, a BB86 is the wrong size for your BB.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:14:50 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 7:46:03 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 5:41:38 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 4:22:58 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other..

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a 24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local California company has the correct size and it should be here in a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.
The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only difference is the shaft diameter?
BB386 is just a press-fit BB30 that is wider, which means that a normal BB30 crank axle will be too short. https://bikerumor.com/2011/12/22/fsa...rison-weights/ A Shimano will work fine with a BB386 and an adapter to reduce the ID. So just buy an adapter. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-adapter...no-cranks.html That seems steep, and you can probably get a cheaper adapter elsewhere.
The BB386 measures 46 or 47 mm in diameter. Hambini who makes BB86 bottom brackets for race teams says that Shimano made is specifically so that you couldn't fit a 30 mm shaft into it. So to make it a Shimano you don't need any adapter, you simply need a bearing with a smaller ID.
I was too dismissive to start because with any of the press-in BB formats, you can spend a bunch of money on a special version with 24mm ID. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-angular...nks-black.html Normal BB386 is spec'd for 30mm ID, but you could get a hybrid, or you could get a standard PF BB386 bottom bracket, pop the bearings out and press in new bearings with a 24mm ID (don't ask me the bearing number), or you could get a $13 adapter. https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/fsa-red...gclsrc=aw.d s

The adaptor allows you to keep your current bearings and saves you the trouble of finding the right bearing number for a BB386 bearing with 24mm ID. It also saves you the pain of pushing out and pressing in bearings in a PF cup, which is actually harder than mounting bearings in a BB30, IMO. It also gives the next owner the flexibility of using a BB386 crank. The rational thing to do is to to get the cheap FSA adapters.

And yes, a BB86 is the wrong size for your BB.

This BB is a plastic piece and if you're riding hard would probably creak. But the gearing is really low and it is supposed to be a flat bar gravel bike so the people that buy these things won't notice it because they simply don't put enough torque on the thing. I will say that the while I will get away with running the rear brake as is, I will have to pull the front brake since it runs internally, pull off the bead, run the hydraulic line and then put it all together again. And then bleed it. I didn't do the Avid parts when I first put it together. Since I had to get the proper fluid anyway and didn't know what it was, I let the shop do it. So I will have to learn this one. No big deal, I was surprised that I bled both Shimano's in less than 10 minutes.

On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:46:31 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:14:50 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 7:46:03 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 5:41:38 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 4:22:58 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a 24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local California company has the correct size and it should be here in a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.
The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only difference is the shaft diameter?
BB386 is just a press-fit BB30 that is wider, which means that a normal BB30 crank axle will be too short. https://bikerumor.com/2011/12/22/fsa...rison-weights/ A Shimano will work fine with a BB386 and an adapter to reduce the ID. So just buy an adapter. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-adapter...no-cranks.html That seems steep, and you can probably get a cheaper adapter elsewhere.
The BB386 measures 46 or 47 mm in diameter. Hambini who makes BB86 bottom brackets for race teams says that Shimano made is specifically so that you couldn't fit a 30 mm shaft into it. So to make it a Shimano you don't need any adapter, you simply need a bearing with a smaller ID.
I was too dismissive to start because with any of the press-in BB formats, you can spend a bunch of money on a special version with 24mm ID. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-angular...nks-black.html Normal BB386 is spec'd for 30mm ID, but you could get a hybrid, or you could get a standard PF BB386 bottom bracket, pop the bearings out and press in new bearings with a 24mm ID (don't ask me the bearing number), or you could get a $13 adapter. https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/fsa-red...gclsrc=aw.d s

The adaptor allows you to keep your current bearings and saves you the trouble of finding the right bearing number for a BB386 bearing with 24mm ID. It also saves you the pain of pushing out and pressing in bearings in a PF cup, which is actually harder than mounting bearings in a BB30, IMO. It also gives the next owner the flexibility of using a BB386 crank. The rational thing to do is to to get the cheap FSA adapters.

And yes, a BB86 is the wrong size for your BB.
This BB is a plastic piece and if you're riding hard would probably creak.. But the gearing is really low and it is supposed to be a flat bar gravel bike so the people that buy these things won't notice it because they simply don't put enough torque on the thing. I will say that the while I will get away with running the rear brake as is, I will have to pull the front brake since it runs internally, pull off the bead, run the hydraulic line and then put it all together again. And then bleed it. I didn't do the Avid parts when I first put it together. Since I had to get the proper fluid anyway and didn't know what it was, I let the shop do it. So I will have to learn this one. No big deal, I was surprised that I bled both Shimano's in less than 10 minutes.

FWIW, all of my press-fit, plastic BBs have been problem free, including the BB86 on my gravel bike is quiet. The BB386 is basically a wide PF30, and I had one of those my old SuperSix, and it was quiet.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 7:27:06 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:46:31 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:14:50 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 7:46:03 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 5:41:38 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 4:22:58 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up.. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label..

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a 24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom bracket.. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local California company has the correct size and it should be here in a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.
The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only difference is the shaft diameter?
BB386 is just a press-fit BB30 that is wider, which means that a normal BB30 crank axle will be too short. https://bikerumor.com/2011/12/22/fsa...rison-weights/ A Shimano will work fine with a BB386 and an adapter to reduce the ID. So just buy an adapter. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-adapter...no-cranks.html That seems steep, and you can probably get a cheaper adapter elsewhere.
The BB386 measures 46 or 47 mm in diameter. Hambini who makes BB86 bottom brackets for race teams says that Shimano made is specifically so that you couldn't fit a 30 mm shaft into it. So to make it a Shimano you don't need any adapter, you simply need a bearing with a smaller ID.
I was too dismissive to start because with any of the press-in BB formats, you can spend a bunch of money on a special version with 24mm ID. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-angular...nks-black.html Normal BB386 is spec'd for 30mm ID, but you could get a hybrid, or you could get a standard PF BB386 bottom bracket, pop the bearings out and press in new bearings with a 24mm ID (don't ask me the bearing number), or you could get a $13 adapter. https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/fsa-red...gclsrc=aw.d s

The adaptor allows you to keep your current bearings and saves you the trouble of finding the right bearing number for a BB386 bearing with 24mm ID. It also saves you the pain of pushing out and pressing in bearings in a PF cup, which is actually harder than mounting bearings in a BB30, IMO. It also gives the next owner the flexibility of using a BB386 crank. The rational thing to do is to to get the cheap FSA adapters.

And yes, a BB86 is the wrong size for your BB.
This BB is a plastic piece and if you're riding hard would probably creak. But the gearing is really low and it is supposed to be a flat bar gravel bike so the people that buy these things won't notice it because they simply don't put enough torque on the thing. I will say that the while I will get away with running the rear brake as is, I will have to pull the front brake since it runs internally, pull off the bead, run the hydraulic line and then put it all together again. And then bleed it. I didn't do the Avid parts when I first put it together. Since I had to get the proper fluid anyway and didn't know what it was, I let the shop do it. So I will have to learn this one. No big deal, I was surprised that I bled both Shimano's in less than 10 minutes.
FWIW, all of my press-fit, plastic BBs have been problem free, including the BB86 on my gravel bike is quiet. The BB386 is basically a wide PF30, and I had one of those my old SuperSix, and it was quiet.

I was watching a YouTube video of Hambini and he said the actual term for a 386 is BB386Evo. Evo is the term that FSA uses for the 30 mm shaft on their lines. So I guess you're correct and that the company that is selling the 24 mm BB386 should say that it is not an actual 386.

On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 11:10:57 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 7:27:06 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:46:31 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:14:50 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 7:46:03 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 5:41:38 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 4:22:58 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant.. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a 24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local California company has the correct size and it should be here in a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.
The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only difference is the shaft diameter?
BB386 is just a press-fit BB30 that is wider, which means that a normal BB30 crank axle will be too short. https://bikerumor.com/2011/12/22/fsa...rison-weights/ A Shimano will work fine with a BB386 and an adapter to reduce the ID. So just buy an adapter. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-adapter...no-cranks.html That seems steep, and you can probably get a cheaper adapter elsewhere.
The BB386 measures 46 or 47 mm in diameter. Hambini who makes BB86 bottom brackets for race teams says that Shimano made is specifically so that you couldn't fit a 30 mm shaft into it. So to make it a Shimano you don't need any adapter, you simply need a bearing with a smaller ID.
I was too dismissive to start because with any of the press-in BB formats, you can spend a bunch of money on a special version with 24mm ID. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-angular...nks-black.html Normal BB386 is spec'd for 30mm ID, but you could get a hybrid, or you could get a standard PF BB386 bottom bracket, pop the bearings out and press in new bearings with a 24mm ID (don't ask me the bearing number), or you could get a $13 adapter. https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/fsa-red...gclsrc=aw.d s

The adaptor allows you to keep your current bearings and saves you the trouble of finding the right bearing number for a BB386 bearing with 24mm ID. It also saves you the pain of pushing out and pressing in bearings in a PF cup, which is actually harder than mounting bearings in a BB30, IMO. It also gives the next owner the flexibility of using a BB386 crank. The rational thing to do is to to get the cheap FSA adapters.

And yes, a BB86 is the wrong size for your BB.
This BB is a plastic piece and if you're riding hard would probably creak. But the gearing is really low and it is supposed to be a flat bar gravel bike so the people that buy these things won't notice it because they simply don't put enough torque on the thing. I will say that the while I will get away with running the rear brake as is, I will have to pull the front brake since it runs internally, pull off the bead, run the hydraulic line and then put it all together again. And then bleed it. I didn't do the Avid parts when I first put it together. Since I had to get the proper fluid anyway and didn't know what it was, I let the shop do it. So I will have to learn this one. No big deal, I was surprised that I bled both Shimano's in less than 10 minutes.
FWIW, all of my press-fit, plastic BBs have been problem free, including the BB86 on my gravel bike is quiet. The BB386 is basically a wide PF30, and I had one of those my old SuperSix, and it was quiet.
I was watching a YouTube video of Hambini and he said the actual term for a 386 is BB386Evo. Evo is the term that FSA uses for the 30 mm shaft on their lines. So I guess you're correct and that the company that is selling the 24 mm BB386 should say that it is not an actual 386.

The lower race tool finally came in yesterday so I set the lower race and installed the fork. They I threaded the internal cables for the derailleurs in.

Jay - cyclocross bikes use cables routed along the top tube and down the seat tube with top pull derailleurs and gravel bikes use normally routed cables with bottom pull derailleurs. So this is setup more as a gravel bike than a cyclocross bike. Whether it rides that way or not remains to be seen.

On Sunday, March 7, 2021 at 10:53:22 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 11:10:57 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 7:27:06 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:46:31 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:14:50 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 7:46:03 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 5:41:38 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 4:22:58 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback.. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a 24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local California company has the correct size and it should be here in a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non sequitur. 24mm is BB86.. BB386 is by definition 30mm.
The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only difference is the shaft diameter?
BB386 is just a press-fit BB30 that is wider, which means that a normal BB30 crank axle will be too short. https://bikerumor.com/2011/12/22/fsa...rison-weights/ A Shimano will work fine with a BB386 and an adapter to reduce the ID. So just buy an adapter. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-adapter...no-cranks.html That seems steep, and you can probably get a cheaper adapter elsewhere.
The BB386 measures 46 or 47 mm in diameter. Hambini who makes BB86 bottom brackets for race teams says that Shimano made is specifically so that you couldn't fit a 30 mm shaft into it. So to make it a Shimano you don't need any adapter, you simply need a bearing with a smaller ID.
I was too dismissive to start because with any of the press-in BB formats, you can spend a bunch of money on a special version with 24mm ID. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-angular...nks-black.html Normal BB386 is spec'd for 30mm ID, but you could get a hybrid, or you could get a standard PF BB386 bottom bracket, pop the bearings out and press in new bearings with a 24mm ID (don't ask me the bearing number), or you could get a $13 adapter. https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/fsa-red...gclsrc=aw.d s

The adaptor allows you to keep your current bearings and saves you the trouble of finding the right bearing number for a BB386 bearing with 24mm ID. It also saves you the pain of pushing out and pressing in bearings in a PF cup, which is actually harder than mounting bearings in a BB30, IMO. It also gives the next owner the flexibility of using a BB386 crank. The rational thing to do is to to get the cheap FSA adapters.

And yes, a BB86 is the wrong size for your BB.
This BB is a plastic piece and if you're riding hard would probably creak. But the gearing is really low and it is supposed to be a flat bar gravel bike so the people that buy these things won't notice it because they simply don't put enough torque on the thing. I will say that the while I will get away with running the rear brake as is, I will have to pull the front brake since it runs internally, pull off the bead, run the hydraulic line and then put it all together again. And then bleed it. I didn't do the Avid parts when I first put it together. Since I had to get the proper fluid anyway and didn't know what it was, I let the shop do it. So I will have to learn this one. No big deal, I was surprised that I bled both Shimano's in less than 10 minutes.
FWIW, all of my press-fit, plastic BBs have been problem free, including the BB86 on my gravel bike is quiet. The BB386 is basically a wide PF30, and I had one of those my old SuperSix, and it was quiet.
I was watching a YouTube video of Hambini and he said the actual term for a 386 is BB386Evo. Evo is the term that FSA uses for the 30 mm shaft on their lines. So I guess you're correct and that the company that is selling the 24 mm BB386 should say that it is not an actual 386.
The lower race tool finally came in yesterday so I set the lower race and installed the fork. They I threaded the internal cables for the derailleurs in.

Jay - cyclocross bikes use cables routed along the top tube and down the seat tube with top pull derailleurs and gravel bikes use normally routed cables with bottom pull derailleurs. So this is setup more as a gravel bike than a cyclocross bike. Whether it rides that way or not remains to be seen.

Really? My CX bike has standard road derailleurs and ordinary (internal) cable runs. This is Van Der Poel's bike: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g63K...hannel=GCNTech Dura Ace on one of those unreliable Canyons. GRX is gaining popularity for CX, which uses a conventional bottom-pull FD.

-- Jay Beattie.

Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 11:10:57 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 7:27:06 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:46:31 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:14:50 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 7:46:03 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 5:41:38 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 4:22:58 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from
him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the
Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would
like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No its fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
havent had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in
danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means
air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing
to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed
to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a
24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom
bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a
Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in
it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local
California company has the correct size and it should be here in
a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non
sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.
The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes
a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket
that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only
difference is the shaft diameter?
BB386 is just a press-fit BB30 that is wider, which means that a
normal BB30 crank axle will be too short.
https://bikerumor.com/2011/12/22/fsa...rison-weights/ A
Shimano will work fine with a BB386 and an adapter to reduce the
ID. So just buy an adapter.
https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-adapter...no-cranks.html That
seems steep, and you can probably get a cheaper adapter elsewhere.
The BB386 measures 46 or 47 mm in diameter. Hambini who makes BB86
bottom brackets for race teams says that Shimano made is
specifically so that you couldn't fit a 30 mm shaft into it. So to
make it a Shimano you don't need any adapter, you simply need a
bearing with a smaller ID.
I was too dismissive to start because with any of the press-in BB
formats, you can spend a bunch of money on a special version with 24mm ID.
https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-angular...nks-black.html
Normal BB386 is spec'd for 30mm ID, but you could get a hybrid, or
you could get a standard PF BB386 bottom bracket, pop the bearings
out and press in new bearings with a 24mm ID (don't ask me the
bearing number), or you could get a $13 adapter.
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/fsa-red...gclsrc=aw.d s


The adaptor allows you to keep your current bearings and saves you
the trouble of finding the right bearing number for a BB386 bearing
with 24mm ID. It also saves you the pain of pushing out and pressing
in bearings in a PF cup, which is actually harder than mounting
bearings in a BB30, IMO. It also gives the next owner the flexibility
of using a BB386 crank. The rational thing to do is to to get the cheap FSA adapters.

And yes, a BB86 is the wrong size for your BB.
This BB is a plastic piece and if you're riding hard would probably
creak. But the gearing is really low and it is supposed to be a flat
bar gravel bike so the people that buy these things won't notice it
because they simply don't put enough torque on the thing. I will say
that the while I will get away with running the rear brake as is, I
will have to pull the front brake since it runs internally, pull off
the bead, run the hydraulic line and then put it all together again.
And then bleed it. I didn't do the Avid parts when I first put it
together. Since I had to get the proper fluid anyway and didn't know
what it was, I let the shop do it. So I will have to learn this one.
No big deal, I was surprised that I bled both Shimano's in less than 10 minutes.
FWIW, all of my press-fit, plastic BBs have been problem free,
including the BB86 on my gravel bike is quiet. The BB386 is basically a
wide PF30, and I had one of those my old SuperSix, and it was quiet.
I was watching a YouTube video of Hambini and he said the actual term
for a 386 is BB386Evo. Evo is the term that FSA uses for the 30 mm shaft
on their lines. So I guess you're correct and that the company that is
selling the 24 mm BB386 should say that it is not an actual 386.

The lower race tool finally came in yesterday so I set the lower race and
installed the fork. They I threaded the internal cables for the derailleurs in.

Jay - cyclocross bikes use cables routed along the top tube and down the
seat tube with top pull derailleurs and gravel bikes use normally routed
cables with bottom pull derailleurs. So this is setup more as a gravel
bike than a cyclocross bike. Whether it rides that way or not remains to be seen.


Both bikes are likely to encounter copious amounts of mud, arguably more so
on a gravel bike in the winter in uk/Europe as a wet muddy park is only so
muddy.

I suspect that internally routed changes this, my Gravel bike has very few
areas that the cable is exposed, either external or internal, and thus
copes fine with bog snorkelling even if the tires etc don’t!

I’m not sure why your so keen it’s a gravel bike? That seems a dead cert
for a CX to be honest, narrow clearances, as it’s intended to run CX tires,
narrow ish range of gears as well muddy parks.

In short I’d expect and I’m far from alone a modern Gravel bike to a) be
able to take 40/45mm tires with mud clearance, and to have at least 1-1 low
gearing ideally lower as well off road gets steep and it gets rocky.

That Felt looks like something intended to be raced around a park, your not
going to convince many I suspect.

Roger Merriman

On Sunday, March 7, 2021 at 4:27:45 PM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 11:10:57 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 7:27:06 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:46:31 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:14:50 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 7:46:03 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 5:41:38 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 4:22:58 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from
him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the
Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would
like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in
danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means
air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing
to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed
to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a
24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom
bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a
Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in
it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local
California company has the correct size and it should be here in
a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non
sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.
The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes
a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket
that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only
difference is the shaft diameter?
BB386 is just a press-fit BB30 that is wider, which means that a
normal BB30 crank axle will be too short.
https://bikerumor.com/2011/12/22/fsa...rison-weights/ A
Shimano will work fine with a BB386 and an adapter to reduce the
ID. So just buy an adapter.
https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-adapter...no-cranks.html That
seems steep, and you can probably get a cheaper adapter elsewhere..
The BB386 measures 46 or 47 mm in diameter. Hambini who makes BB86
bottom brackets for race teams says that Shimano made is
specifically so that you couldn't fit a 30 mm shaft into it. So to
make it a Shimano you don't need any adapter, you simply need a
bearing with a smaller ID.
I was too dismissive to start because with any of the press-in BB
formats, you can spend a bunch of money on a special version with 24mm ID.
https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-angular...nks-black.html
Normal BB386 is spec'd for 30mm ID, but you could get a hybrid, or
you could get a standard PF BB386 bottom bracket, pop the bearings
out and press in new bearings with a 24mm ID (don't ask me the
bearing number), or you could get a $13 adapter.
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/fsa-red...gclsrc=aw.d s


The adaptor allows you to keep your current bearings and saves you
the trouble of finding the right bearing number for a BB386 bearing
with 24mm ID. It also saves you the pain of pushing out and pressing
in bearings in a PF cup, which is actually harder than mounting
bearings in a BB30, IMO. It also gives the next owner the flexibility
of using a BB386 crank. The rational thing to do is to to get the cheap FSA adapters.

And yes, a BB86 is the wrong size for your BB.
This BB is a plastic piece and if you're riding hard would probably
creak. But the gearing is really low and it is supposed to be a flat
bar gravel bike so the people that buy these things won't notice it
because they simply don't put enough torque on the thing. I will say
that the while I will get away with running the rear brake as is, I
will have to pull the front brake since it runs internally, pull off
the bead, run the hydraulic line and then put it all together again.
And then bleed it. I didn't do the Avid parts when I first put it
together. Since I had to get the proper fluid anyway and didn't know
what it was, I let the shop do it. So I will have to learn this one.
No big deal, I was surprised that I bled both Shimano's in less than 10 minutes.
FWIW, all of my press-fit, plastic BBs have been problem free,
including the BB86 on my gravel bike is quiet. The BB386 is basically a
wide PF30, and I had one of those my old SuperSix, and it was quiet.
I was watching a YouTube video of Hambini and he said the actual term
for a 386 is BB386Evo. Evo is the term that FSA uses for the 30 mm shaft
on their lines. So I guess you're correct and that the company that is
selling the 24 mm BB386 should say that it is not an actual 386.

The lower race tool finally came in yesterday so I set the lower race and
installed the fork. They I threaded the internal cables for the derailleurs in.

Jay - cyclocross bikes use cables routed along the top tube and down the
seat tube with top pull derailleurs and gravel bikes use normally routed
cables with bottom pull derailleurs. So this is setup more as a gravel
bike than a cyclocross bike. Whether it rides that way or not remains to be seen.


Both bikes are likely to encounter copious amounts of mud, arguably more so
on a gravel bike in the winter in uk/Europe as a wet muddy park is only so
muddy.

I suspect that internally routed changes this, my Gravel bike has very few
areas that the cable is exposed, either external or internal, and thus
copes fine with bog snorkelling even if the tires etc don’t!

I’m not sure why your so keen it’s a gravel bike? That seems a dead cert
for a CX to be honest, narrow clearances, as it’s intended to run CX tires,
narrow ish range of gears as well muddy parks.

In short I’d expect and I’m far from alone a modern Gravel bike to a) be
able to take 40/45mm tires with mud clearance, and to have at least 1-1 low
gearing ideally lower as well off road gets steep and it gets rocky.

That Felt looks like something intended to be raced around a park, your not
going to convince many I suspect.

I haven't see a CX bike using 45 mm tires which are far more a slightly narrowish MTB tires (used on dry hard ground) The clearances on this Felt are wide enough for a 55 mm tire. Since it uses disks (and since it is set up to 140 mm disks) it seems to me to be hardly a CX bike in classic terms. That plastic derailleur cable diverter on the bottom of the BB casing is more a bash plate to break the cables on real CX type of courses. I used 32 and 34 mm tires on even very heavy terrain around here without any problems. In fact the 34's probably had too much traction. Good gravel tires have surprisingly little rolling resistance on hard road.

As for your spacers, I probably just should have bought those. Or better, simply bought a Wheels Manufacturing BB386 Evo that uses 6803 bearings that have a 24 mm inside diameter.

On Monday, March 8, 2021 at 9:04:42 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, March 7, 2021 at 4:27:45 PM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 11:10:57 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 7:27:06 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:46:31 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 8:14:50 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 7:46:03 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 5:41:38 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 4:22:58 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from
him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the
Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would
like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in
danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means
air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing
to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed
to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a
24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom
bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a
Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in
it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local
California company has the correct size and it should be here in
a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non
sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.
The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes
a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket
that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only
difference is the shaft diameter?
BB386 is just a press-fit BB30 that is wider, which means that a
normal BB30 crank axle will be too short.
https://bikerumor.com/2011/12/22/fsa...rison-weights/ A
Shimano will work fine with a BB386 and an adapter to reduce the
ID. So just buy an adapter.
https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-adapter...no-cranks.html That
seems steep, and you can probably get a cheaper adapter elsewhere.
The BB386 measures 46 or 47 mm in diameter. Hambini who makes BB86
bottom brackets for race teams says that Shimano made is
specifically so that you couldn't fit a 30 mm shaft into it. So to
make it a Shimano you don't need any adapter, you simply need a
bearing with a smaller ID.
I was too dismissive to start because with any of the press-in BB
formats, you can spend a bunch of money on a special version with 24mm ID.
https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-angular...nks-black.html
Normal BB386 is spec'd for 30mm ID, but you could get a hybrid, or
you could get a standard PF BB386 bottom bracket, pop the bearings
out and press in new bearings with a 24mm ID (don't ask me the
bearing number), or you could get a $13 adapter.
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/fsa-red...gclsrc=aw.d s


The adaptor allows you to keep your current bearings and saves you
the trouble of finding the right bearing number for a BB386 bearing
with 24mm ID. It also saves you the pain of pushing out and pressing
in bearings in a PF cup, which is actually harder than mounting
bearings in a BB30, IMO. It also gives the next owner the flexibility
of using a BB386 crank. The rational thing to do is to to get the cheap FSA adapters.

And yes, a BB86 is the wrong size for your BB.
This BB is a plastic piece and if you're riding hard would probably
creak. But the gearing is really low and it is supposed to be a flat
bar gravel bike so the people that buy these things won't notice it
because they simply don't put enough torque on the thing. I will say
that the while I will get away with running the rear brake as is, I
will have to pull the front brake since it runs internally, pull off
the bead, run the hydraulic line and then put it all together again.
And then bleed it. I didn't do the Avid parts when I first put it
together. Since I had to get the proper fluid anyway and didn't know
what it was, I let the shop do it. So I will have to learn this one.
No big deal, I was surprised that I bled both Shimano's in less than 10 minutes.
FWIW, all of my press-fit, plastic BBs have been problem free,
including the BB86 on my gravel bike is quiet. The BB386 is basically a
wide PF30, and I had one of those my old SuperSix, and it was quiet..
I was watching a YouTube video of Hambini and he said the actual term
for a 386 is BB386Evo. Evo is the term that FSA uses for the 30 mm shaft
on their lines. So I guess you're correct and that the company that is
selling the 24 mm BB386 should say that it is not an actual 386.

The lower race tool finally came in yesterday so I set the lower race and
installed the fork. They I threaded the internal cables for the derailleurs in.

Jay - cyclocross bikes use cables routed along the top tube and down the
seat tube with top pull derailleurs and gravel bikes use normally routed
cables with bottom pull derailleurs. So this is setup more as a gravel
bike than a cyclocross bike. Whether it rides that way or not remains to be seen.


Both bikes are likely to encounter copious amounts of mud, arguably more so
on a gravel bike in the winter in uk/Europe as a wet muddy park is only so
muddy.

I suspect that internally routed changes this, my Gravel bike has very few
areas that the cable is exposed, either external or internal, and thus
copes fine with bog snorkelling even if the tires etc don’t!

I’m not sure why your so keen it’s a gravel bike? That seems a dead cert
for a CX to be honest, narrow clearances, as it’s intended to run CX tires,
narrow ish range of gears as well muddy parks.

In short I’d expect and I’m far from alone a modern Gravel bike to a) be
able to take 40/45mm tires with mud clearance, and to have at least 1-1 low
gearing ideally lower as well off road gets steep and it gets rocky.

That Felt looks like something intended to be raced around a park, your not
going to convince many I suspect.
I haven't see a CX bike using 45 mm tires which are far more a slightly narrowish MTB tires (used on dry hard ground) The clearances on this Felt are wide enough for a 55 mm tire. Since it uses disks (and since it is set up to 140 mm disks) it seems to me to be hardly a CX bike in classic terms. That plastic derailleur cable diverter on the bottom of the BB casing is more a bash plate to break the cables on real CX type of courses. I used 32 and 34 mm tires on even very heavy terrain around here without any problems. In fact the 34's probably had too much traction. Good gravel tires have surprisingly little rolling resistance on hard road.

As for your spacers, I probably just should have bought those. Or better, simply bought a Wheels Manufacturing BB386 Evo that uses 6803 bearings that have a 24 mm inside diameter.

6803 has a 17mm ID. You need 24X42X7 for the BB386 PF plastic shell (I believe it uses 42 bearing in the shell). That bearing is just a 6806 with 24mm ID. I don't know why those are not readily available, but they're not -- probably because Shimano users with BB30 formats would need a spacer anyway, even if the 6806 had an 24mm ID because of the spindle-length difference between BB30 and Shimano. In other words, why bother buying a special 6806 bearing with a 24mm ID when you're going to have to buy a spacer anyway. https://tinyurl.com/hdz7dkfh 6806 bearings are relatively cheap. A 6806 with a 24mm ID would be nice for BB386 PF BB, but then again, the price of adapters is low.

BTW, as you know, Enduro and others (Rotor) sell BB386/24mm PF bottom brackets, but they don't separately sell the bearings that press into them, and the bearing designation in the Rotor (4624) doesn't correspond with any OTC bearings. https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/rotor-r...B&gclsrc=aw.ds It's like their secret sauce, so if you want to replace the bearings, you have to replace the whole PF assembly.

-- Jay Beattie.