Chain Wax

I am in the process of cleaning the junk out of my shop and came
across my old chain waxing stuff. I used an "electric fry pan", a
cheap Chinese made electric heated wok thing so to speak, that still
had the last batch of wax in it.

I had mixed a small amount of bee's wax into the original paraffin
think it would make the wax more ductile and (surprise) the old was
from some years ago was still soft though to indent with the thumb
nail.

Given the proven superiority of the wax mix I think I'll go back to
using the wax for my Sunday Bike.

TRY MIXING IN SILICONE or teflon

DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH considered Fri, 4 Nov
2016 06:21:34 -0700 (PDT) the perfect time to write:

TRY MIXING IN SILICONE or teflon

Best of all, if you can get hold of it and put up with the fact that
it stains black everything it gets near, is Molybdenum DiSulphide.
In pure form, it usually comes as a fine powder, but using a grease
with Molybdenum DiSulphide as the thinning agent for the wax would be
an alternative way to mix it in.
The wax may even help contain the staining tendency to some extent.

On Fri, 4 Nov 2016 06:21:34 -0700 (PDT), DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH
wrote:

TRY MIXING IN SILICONE or teflon

Try Butch Wax:
https://www.google.com/search?q=butch+wax&tbm=isch
Might be a problem because it's a water based wax. If useless on the
bicycle chain, it can be used to help cure helmet hair.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Friday, November 4, 2016 at 3:31:39 PM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 4 Nov 2016 06:21:34 -0700 (PDT), DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH
wrote:

TRY MIXING IN SILICONE or teflon

Try Butch Wax:
https://www.google.com/search?q=butch+wax&tbm=isch
Might be a problem because it's a water based wax. If useless on the
bicycle chain, it can be used to help cure helmet hair.


Try BUSH wax
https://www.google.com/search?q=bush...1920&b ih=885

On Friday, November 4, 2016 at 6:31:39 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 4 Nov 2016 06:21:34 -0700 (PDT), DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH
wrote:

TRY MIXING IN SILICONE or teflon

Try Butch Wax:
https://www.google.com/search?q=butch+wax&tbm=isch
Might be a problem because it's a water based wax. If useless on the
bicycle chain, it can be used to help cure helmet hair.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

as previously posted, I am using CRC silicone spry from Wal for freshening drying Pedros $wax. apparently works AAA: prolonged lube and dirt throw off.

there are several online papers on mixing silicones with waxes ...prob more in Goo Scholar.

prob formulated stove top n blender.

I'm in a wax period so experimenting with Ford's ( comparing to the the Universal Portland Mix) limited slip viscosity modifier as a drip into Valvo Synth trans lube...lowering the 70-140W to temp specs...is off.

I wuz trying coax beady into a trial but he's busy handwringing.

On Fri, 04 Nov 2016 19:25:02 +0000, Phil Lee
wrote:

DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH considered Fri, 4 Nov
2016 06:21:34 -0700 (PDT) the perfect time to write:

TRY MIXING IN SILICONE or teflon

Best of all, if you can get hold of it and put up with the fact that
it stains black everything it gets near, is Molybdenum DiSulphide.
In pure form, it usually comes as a fine powder, but using a grease
with Molybdenum DiSulphide as the thinning agent for the wax would be
an alternative way to mix it in.
The wax may even help contain the staining tendency to some extent.

Actually paraffin based waxes don't stain very much. I have used chain
wax with the dreaded Molybdenum DiSulphide in it and you can rub your
fingers across the wax (pick a temperature that you can withstand) and
it doesn't get your fingers dirty.

The receipt for the "UltraFast lube" that was mentioned in the
BikeRadar article of a year or so ago is "1lb of household paraffin
wax, 5g of pure PTFE (Teflon) powder, and 1g of pure molybdenum
disulfide (MoS2)".

On Friday, November 4, 2016 at 7:57:30 PM UTC-4, John B Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 04 Nov 2016 19:25:02 +0000, Phil Lee
wrote:

DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH considered Fri, 4 Nov
2016 06:21:34 -0700 (PDT) the perfect time to write:

TRY MIXING IN SILICONE or teflon

Best of all, if you can get hold of it and put up with the fact that
it stains black everything it gets near, is Molybdenum DiSulphide.
In pure form, it usually comes as a fine powder, but using a grease
with Molybdenum DiSulphide as the thinning agent for the wax would be
an alternative way to mix it in.
The wax may even help contain the staining tendency to some extent.

Actually paraffin based waxes don't stain very much. I have used chain
wax with the dreaded Molybdenum DiSulphide in it and you can rub your
fingers across the wax (pick a temperature that you can withstand) and
it doesn't get your fingers dirty.

The receipt for the "UltraFast lube" that was mentioned in the
BikeRadar article of a year or so ago is "1lb of household paraffin
wax, 5g of pure PTFE (Teflon) powder, and 1g of pure molybdenum
disulfide (MoS2)".

off course...weez all understanding of this one....as why not 10 or 15 or 20 grams pure Teflon ?

useah .5 pound paraffin..say are there really expensive paraffins ?

so cook a batch JS n tellus what

"DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH" wrote in message
...
TRY MIXING IN SILICONE or teflon

Silicon is much better at repelling water than lubricating.

Many commercial chain lubes contain graphite and/or molybdenum.

Teflon is useful - but gives much better results if you work molybdenum into
the metal surfaces first.

Teflon increases the chances of chain slip on worn sprockets.