Need expert help

Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
of it for a long time.

Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked
both of them.

When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I
really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and
a more foregiving frame?

What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system.

The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The
Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear
etc and noise along with it.

My question is this --

What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure
3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism?

Also, the Cannondale had disc brakes -- out to lunch on that -- what
is the lowdown on disc vs conventional brakes?

Thanks kindly for any help -- I want to get something before the end
of the week.

(Also -- rode a Giant cypress, didn't care for it).

On Apr 30, 8:55 am, "Bill Sornson" wrote:
mkr5000 wrote:
Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
of it for a long time.

Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked
both of them.

When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I
really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and
a more foregiving frame?

What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system.

The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The
Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear
etc and noise along with it.

My question is this --

What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure
3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism?

Also, the Cannondale had disc brakes -- out to lunch on that -- what
is the lowdown on disc vs conventional brakes?

Thanks kindly for any help -- I want to get something before the end
of the week.

(Also -- rode a Giant cypress, didn't care for it).

Tell the shop manager that you're interested in the C'dale, but its shifting
was lousy. If he or she is on the ball, the bike will be tuned up in four
minutes.

HTH, Bill S.

Yea, it's probably just a matter of adjusting the shifters. In my
experience, every new shift system, when properly adjusted (and it's
not hard) shifts better than any shift system from the old days.
Doesn't matter the brand.

Yeah, I told them to look at it and call me so I culd try it again..

We'll see if they take me seriously.

It was the 1 through 3 shifter on the left -- when it was between 2
and 3 it would create alot of noist on the front sprocket.

I'll have to see if that smooth Trek shifter is available on a similar
Cannondale.

The difference was night and day....just a lttle black lever that
would click...on the Cannondale, no lever, just move the handlegrip.

On Apr 30, 10:41 am, mkr5000 wrote:
Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
of it for a long time.

Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked
both of them.

When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I
really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and
a more foregiving frame?

What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system.

The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The
Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear
etc and noise along with it.

My question is this --

What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure
3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism?

The shifters can be adjusted to work better, just takes a minute or
two to align the mechanism under the rear of the cogset using the
barrel adjuster. If you prefer trigger shifters, those are available
in a model that would work for that bike:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.a...S&currency=USD

I'm not too hip to disc brakes on road going bikes, though I can
understand the arguments for in Portland and for areas folks have
mentioned that have road surfaces that destroy rims--they're mainly
just a gee-whiz selling point. Inexpensive linear pull brakes work
better than most folks need. That said, if the 'dale speaks to you,
get it.

In defense of the Trek, with the boring old linear pull brakes and
compliment of mounts, it'll take racks, fenders, and the like, so as
you get in shape, you can turn it into your utility bike and upgrade
to a higher zoot exercise model.

mkr5000 wrote:

I want to get something before the end
of the week.

Ahem... not a good strategy. Best to look longer, ride a few more. You
haven't tried the comparably priced Bianchi's, the Redlines, the
Raleighs. There are a lot of good machines out there. And there are
some considerations you haven't gotten too... tire size and fender
compatibility are biggies. Everybody laughs at fenders until they have
to clean their drive-train. Tire size is WAY more important than disk
brakes. You ought to ride something that has a Shimano 8 speed hub
before you settle on a derailleur...

On Apr 30, 4:13 pm, Will wrote:
mkr5000 wrote:
I want to get something before the end
of the week.

Ahem... not a good strategy. Best to look longer, ride a few more. You
haven't tried the comparably priced Bianchi's, the Redlines, the
Raleighs. There are a lot of good machines out there. And there are
some considerations you haven't gotten too... tire size and fender
compatibility are biggies. Everybody laughs at fenders until they have
to clean their drive-train. Tire size is WAY more important than disk
brakes. You ought to ride something that has a Shimano 8 speed hub
before you settle on a derailleur...

Way true. And don't forget used. I'm a big fan of the $500 new bike--
you get a lot of service and start fresh, but for more expensive
bikes, the deals on Craigslist are incredible--then pay a shop to dial
it in. That's what they make their money on anyway.

In article ,
mkr5000 writes:

It was the 1 through 3 shifter on the left -- when it was between 2
and 3 it would create alot of noist on the front sprocket.

That could be normal -- just a bad chainline.
Extreme chain angles, especially between the
outermost (smallest) rear sprocket and the
innermost front chainring, can make an horrible
grinding noise, which often comes in part from
the chain rubbing against one side of the front
derailer cage, but also from the slanted chain
trying to pull itself off the individual cogs.

That particular gear ratio can be obtained more
pleasantly & relatively silently with your middle
chainring and one of your in-between rear sprockets.

The bikes you test-rode no doubt come with a
setup known as crossover gearing, in which
certain front chainring/rear sprocket combinations
are duplicated, but whichever of those duplicates
keeps the chain the straightest is the more
preferable choice, and extreme chain angles are
best avoided.

If you're interested, here's a good tutorial on
bicycle gearing arrangements and effects:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-theory.html

The geometries of some bike frames can handle extreme
chain angles better than others, but as I say, extreme
chain angles are still best avoided. You can still get
the same front/rear gear ratio with other combinations
that keep the chain straighter.

Although my preference currently lies with friction
(smooth-moving, non-clicky) thumbshifters, I've always
liked the convenient ease with which slightly out-of-tune
Twist Grips can make the chain fall into place by
fudging them a little between and beyond their clicks.
The downside of Twist Grips is: unintended shifting
by flexing your wrist for whatever reasons other than
shifting. I also find Twist Grips too noisy -- by
clicking so loudly, they tip my hand as to my intentions
in impromptu, friendly li'l races with fellow riders on
the street ;-)


cheers,
Tom

--
Nothing is safe from me.
I'm really at:
tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca

Tom Keats wrote:

The geometries of some bike frames can handle extreme
chain angles better than others...

A good reason to test a Shimano 8 speed hub... Why fuss with cogs when
you can always run a good line, always have positive shifts, and
easily cover (4 oz. plastic chain guard) the drive-train...

The downside of Twist Grips is: unintended shifting...

Twists are good for cold weather commuting. It's tough to shift rapid-
fires with mittens.

The main thing that I need to figure out is the type of bike I need.

I really intend to take it on urban streets, which have their share of
bumps and grinds, as much as I'll try to avoid them.

I don't see myself doing the nice paved bike trails that we have here
throughout the city -- although I'm sure I'll spend time there as
well.

I first decided to get something when I saw this "comfort" bike, a
Giant Sedona that someone was riding and was amazed at the difference
between now and the many years ago I was on a bike......shocks, a seat
suspension, big tires etc.

And that's my major concern --

Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets
of Indianapolis.

So based on that, do I stay with one specific style of bike? ......Do
I always look at what's classified a "comfort" bike, with the sturdier
frames and larger tires?

The Trek 7300 and that Cannondale adventure I don't think fall into
that classification, although I can see if you can avoid hitting crap,
they would be a joy to ride.

I want something easy to ride also so maybe the wide tires will make
me work harder?

I probably need to get somewhere with a great selection and just spend
half a day test riding.

On May 1, 9:50 am, mkr5000 wrote:
The main thing that I need to figure out is the type of bike I need.

I really intend to take it on urban streets, which have their share of
bumps and grinds, as much as I'll try to avoid them.

I don't see myself doing the nice paved bike trails that we have here
throughout the city -- although I'm sure I'll spend time there as
well.

I first decided to get something when I saw this "comfort" bike, a
Giant Sedona that someone was riding and was amazed at the difference
between now and the many years ago I was on a bike......shocks, a seat
suspension, big tires etc.

And that's my major concern --

Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets
of Indianapolis.

So based on that, do I stay with one specific style of bike? ......Do
I always look at what's classified a "comfort" bike, with the sturdier
frames and larger tires?

The Trek 7300 and that Cannondale adventure I don't think fall into
that classification, although I can see if you can avoid hitting crap,
they would be a joy to ride.

I want something easy to ride also so maybe the wide tires will make
me work harder?

Nah, ya want something with a decent amount of cush that's still
skinny and light enough to not be piggy. Most of the world figgured
this out a long time ago--the same tire dimensions you see on touring
bikes and British 3 speeds is really a great compromise, around
32-37mm. That said, if you want to start fatter, tires are relatively
inexpensive to switch out. Bikes in the "comfort" and "hybrid"
categories usually come with rather nasty tires when it comes to ride
feel, usually erring on durability. If you've not felt the difference,
wait a while before spoiling yourself, but it can mean a couple miles
per hour.

Suspension forks and posts are pointless on the road for most of us,
you'll soon learn to lift your bum over bumps, avoid them--if
possible, but if you like a bike with them--by all means, knock
yourself out.

I probably need to get somewhere with a great selection and just spend
half a day test riding.

Both those bikes could work out, though those of us that have been
riding a while would probably tire of the very upright position of the
Trek, and use the adjustable stem to lower the bars. The cockpit of
the Cannondale's rather nice--but perhaps a bit hunched if your'e
getting back into the saddle. You want some weight over the front end
for control, but take your time getting there if your back is not used
to it--thus a good reason for adjustable angle stems to exist.

Go ride a bunch more--that's probably the best bet.