Front derailleur Shimano Deore M591, scraping

Joerg wrote:
avid Scheidt wrote:
: Joerg wrote:
: :Hello Folks,
:
: :Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
: :tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
: uter cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring
: :bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
: :brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...
:
: :http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF
:
: :... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
: :the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".
:
: oes it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
: :millimeters here.
:
: Well, I'd want a clearance of more than zero, but not touching is
: enough. Remember, the deraileur shifts gears down from the top by
: pushing on the chain, so contact with the plate isn't the end of the
: world. You might wear out the front a few thousand miles early. Big
: deal. or you might not.
:

:I'll adjust it next week (had a big honey-do project today and want to
:go riding now). I guess it's not too bad since Dan and you said it can
:take some scraping so one more ride won't hurt it.

:It's just puzzling that a new bike does this.

not really, it's misadjusted, or it's slipped. Or you have ore torque
than the mecha nic who set it up.

--
sig 124

David Scheidt wrote:
Joerg wrote:
avid Scheidt wrote:
: Joerg wrote:
: :Hello Folks,
:
: :Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
: :tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
: uter cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring
: :bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
: :brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...
:
: :http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF
:
: :... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
: :the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".
:
: oes it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
: :millimeters here.
:
: Well, I'd want a clearance of more than zero, but not touching is
: enough. Remember, the deraileur shifts gears down from the top by
: pushing on the chain, so contact with the plate isn't the end of the
: world. You might wear out the front a few thousand miles early. Big
: deal. or you might not.
:

:I'll adjust it next week (had a big honey-do project today and want to
:go riding now). I guess it's not too bad since Dan and you said it can
:take some scraping so one more ride won't hurt it.

:It's just puzzling that a new bike does this.

not really, it's misadjusted, or it's slipped.


According to the manual it was adjusted more generously than the 0.5mm
range Shimano states (it's about 1mm right now) but even that ain't enough.


... Or you have ore torque
than the mecha nic who set it up.


My bike dealer is a competition mountain biker, he's probably got 2x my
pedal power :-)

No kidding, when I talked about trails with him and asked him for one of
them how long it takes him round trip he said 3h. I need at least 4-1/2h.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

jiggling the front deray is standard procedure.

favorite guidebook

MOUNTAIN BIKING THE EASTERN SIERRAS BEST 100 TRILS

DAVIS, DOUGLAS, HEMMINGWAY-DOUGLAS

ISBN 0-938665-42-1

On Sat, 07 Jun 2014 07:45:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

Hello Folks,

Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
outer cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring
bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF

... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".

Does it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
millimeters here.

It's a 29" montain bike, Fuji Outland 1.5, 2013 model but bought new
about three months ago.

You might look at a few things.

Is the chain hitting the derailer cage toward the rear of the cage?
You can rotate the derailer a tiny bit to correct that.

When the derailer is shifted to the large chain ring does the outer
edge of the cage extend out past the outer edge of the chain ring.
there is an outer stop screw to adjust that.

Some Shimano shifters have two position for the large chain ring which
allow the derailer cage to be positioned a bit further out when the
chain is on the outer cogs and in a bit when on the larger end of the
cassette.
--
Cheers,

Jphn B.

On Saturday, June 7, 2014 4:45:58 PM UTC+2, Joerg wrote:
Hello Folks,



Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less

tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the

outer cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring

bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes

brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...



http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF



... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between

the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".



Does it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero

millimeters here.



It's a 29" montain bike, Fuji Outland 1.5, 2013 model but bought new

about three months ago.



--

Regards, Joerg



http://www.analogconsultants.com/

There should be no chain rub on the big ring and the three outer (smallest) cogs ever. You did not adjust it right or you have a really ****ty frame. I rather adjust 5 rear derailleur than one front derailleur especially Shimano. I have better results adjusting the front derailleur somewhat inward at the rear than parallel to the chainring and a little higher than in the instruction.

Lou

AMuzi wrote:
On 6/7/2014 9:45 AM, Joerg wrote:
Hello Folks,

Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
outer cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring
bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF


... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".

Does it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
millimeters here.

It's a 29" montain bike, Fuji Outland 1.5, 2013 model but bought new
about three months ago.


Yes, the cage shape is designed to shift best when the changer is set
(vertical height) just above the outer chainring teeth at the closest
point.

Inspect more closely to preclude a problem with a loose bearing, loose
crank arm, loose chainring bolts or a bent chainring. If that's all
well, adjust changer limit (laterally) to clear the outer ring and chain
in high gear.


I guess I'll have to do that. I've inspected the bearings and crank arm
connections, that's all good and solid.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

John B. wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jun 2014 07:45:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

Hello Folks,

Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is less
tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and the
outer cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain ring
bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that causes
brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual ...

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF

... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance between
the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".

Does it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero
millimeters here.

It's a 29" montain bike, Fuji Outland 1.5, 2013 model but bought new
about three months ago.

You might look at a few things.

Is the chain hitting the derailer cage toward the rear of the cage?
You can rotate the derailer a tiny bit to correct that.


The cage on the M591 has an indentation on the right side which pushes
the chain down to the next smaller blade. That's what rubs.


When the derailer is shifted to the large chain ring does the outer
edge of the cage extend out past the outer edge of the chain ring.
there is an outer stop screw to adjust that.


I'll adjust that some time after this weekend. I'll just keep out of
those smaller sprockets where possible.


Some Shimano shifters have two position for the large chain ring which
allow the derailer cage to be positioned a bit further out when the
chain is on the outer cogs and in a bit when on the larger end of the
cassette.


This one doesn't, the click shifter gives only one position.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Lou Holtman wrote:
On Saturday, June 7, 2014 4:45:58 PM UTC+2, Joerg wrote:
Hello Folks,



Most of the time I ride a bit low in cadence, fits me better and is
less

tiring. Anyhow, that causes me to ride on the large chain ring and
the

outer cogs in the back a lot. When I "step on it" the large chain
ring

bends right 1/20" or so and while on the outer 2-3 sprockets that
causes

brief chain-on-metal rubbing on the front derailleur. The manual
...



http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830729252.PDF




... says, quote "3. Top adjustment - Set so that the clearance
between

the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0 - 0.5 mm".



Does it have to be this tight? I see absolutely no sense in zero

millimeters here.



It's a 29" montain bike, Fuji Outland 1.5, 2013 model but bought
new

about three months ago.



--

Regards, Joerg



http://www.analogconsultants.com/

There should be no chain rub on the big ring and the three outer
(smallest) cogs ever. You did not adjust it right or you have a
really ****ty frame. I rather adjust 5 rear derailleur than one front
derailleur especially Shimano. I have better results adjusting the
front derailleur somewhat inward at the rear than parallel to the
chainring and a little higher than in the instruction.


The frame is actually fairly stiff (of course not like carbon fiber).
It's the factory adjustment and even a bit more generous in clearance
than the manual says. So I'll give it even larger clearance, I think
that's the only longterm fix. Regardless of what the manual says. as
long as it still shifts ok.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

If that's all well, adjust changer limit
(laterally) to clear the outer ring and chain in high gear.

Andrew Muzi

////////////////////X

WHERE are the screws set and when in relation to seat post clamping ?

when adjusting height at the CR, try a screw motion with the seat post clamp when eyeballing your problem area.

I find the screws are smarter than I am or was....

SET SCREWS MIDPOINT AT EQUAL LENGTHS (TRANS FROM THE Korean)

oh cool. then this advice doesnlt get you anywhere so you go back to smacking it with a hammer.