2011 Trek 7.6 FX Price check

Hello all, I am new to bikes. My neighbor has a pearl white 2011 Trek
7.6 FX, that he just bought 1 month ago. He does not want it
anymore. The bike looks new, and he has some new pedals that your
shoe has to clip in, they are shimano pd m540 pedals. He also has a
pair of new shoes (my size) that clip into the pedals and he will
throw in a new helmet. He bought the bike, lost interest and now
wants to sell it. He said he paid 1200 for the bike and another 200
for the bedals, shoes and helmet. He said I can have it all for 700
dollars, is that a good deal? I appreciate it in advance.

Bj

brivy wrote:

Hello all, I am new to bikes.


The single most important thing about a bike is if it fits you properly.

[snip description of bike for sale]


is that a good deal?


You should only be considering that question after you have determined
that the bike in question is the size you need.

Google for "bike fitting", or even better, go to a Trek LBS to
determine what size you need.


--
Tad McClellan
email: perl -le "print scalar reverse qq/moc.liamg\100cm.j.dat/"
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.

In article a4e16347-92bb-4678-914f-
,
says...


Hello all, I am new to bikes. My neighbor has a pearl white 2011
Trek
7.6 FX, that he just bought 1 month ago. He does not want it
anymore. The bike looks new, and he has some new pedals that
your
shoe has to clip in, they are shimano pd m540 pedals. He also has
a
pair of new shoes (my size) that clip into the pedals and he will
throw in a new helmet. He bought the bike, lost interest and now
wants to sell it. He said he paid 1200 for the bike and another 200
for the bedals, shoes and helmet. He said I can have it all for 700
dollars, is that a good deal? I appreciate it in advance.

Bj
If it fits you and you want what is basically a hybrid with some decent
equipment and mostly mid-lo end stuff, about $700 for all of it seems
good. A good first bike, Trek is a known manufacturer making
competitive bikes at each price point.

On Nov 12, 1:24*pm, brivy wrote:
Hello all, I am new to bikes. *My neighbor has a pearl white 2011 Trek
7.6 FX, that he just bought 1 month ago. * He does not want it
anymore. * The bike looks new, and he has some new pedals that your
shoe has to clip in, they are shimano pd m540 pedals. *He also has a
pair of new shoes (my size) that clip into the pedals and he will
throw in a new helmet. *He bought the bike, lost interest and now
wants to sell it. *He said he paid 1200 for the bike and another 200
for the bedals, shoes and helmet. *He said I can have it all for 700
dollars, is that a good deal? * I appreciate it in advance.

Bj

It's a perfectly fine deal, if it fits right. A lot of folks seem to
have a beef with flat bar road bikes, but I like them. Mtb controls
are right where you need them, and if you crash and damage a shifter
or lever, cheap to replace.

That said, for $700 you can get a new hybrid that's less racy, a
little heavier, and capable of taking wider tires, fenders, and even
racks front and rear.

I'd ride the Trek and something new at the bike shop and see what
catches your fancy.

"brivy" wrote in message
...
Hello all, I am new to bikes. My neighbor has a pearl white 2011 Trek
7.6 FX, that he just bought 1 month ago. He does not want it
anymore. The bike looks new, and he has some new pedals that your
shoe has to clip in, they are shimano pd m540 pedals. He also has a
pair of new shoes (my size) that clip into the pedals and he will
throw in a new helmet. He bought the bike, lost interest and now
wants to sell it. He said he paid 1200 for the bike and another 200
for the bedals, shoes and helmet. He said I can have it all for 700
dollars, is that a good deal? I appreciate it in advance.

Bj

A good buy for a flat-bar road bike with quite a reasonable level of drivetrain
equipment fitted. The entry-level Trek 7.1 is under $400 but the equipment is
just plain cheap. You don't say where you live, if you are a lady or a
gentleman, if you have ridden much before or what you want to do with this bike.
If you are in Canada or the Northern half of the USA you are coming into a
season when riding conditions are definitely discouraging. If you did buy this
bike the first thing to do is ditch the clip-in pedals and shoes. Put them on
Ebay, you *do*not*need*them*. Find a local bike shop and buy a set of platform
pedals. Nothing discourages regular riding like having to put on special clothes
before you go. Maybe that's why your neighbour lost interest so quick. Use the
proceeds from the pedal sale to put a rear rack on. The bike does have rack
eyelets according to Trek's website picture. Add a cheap pannier bag and you
will be encouraged to use the bike for grocery hauling, unless you live out in
the boonies 15 miles form the nearest market. At 28mm, the tyres are a little
narrow though not excessively so. However, wider tyres make a bike nicer to ride
on lousy suburban pavement or bicycle trails. The model below with apparently
the same wheelset has 32mm tyres. Perhaps this bike has the rim width and the
frame and fork clearance to take 32mm or even 35mm tyres. If you heve a local
Trek dealer you could ask.

But will the bike fit you? Can you even straddle the top tube? If there is six
inches of clearance between your Valuable Bits and the tube the frame is maybe
too small. If aforesaid Valuable Bits brush the top tube it is maybe too big.
Contacting top tube was not necessarily a bad thing with a traditional frame
with level top tube but on a modern compact frame with a sloping top tube you
would maybe have too far to reach to the bars.

Go to http://www.rivbike.com/article/bike_..._to_measure_it where
respected traditionalist Grant Petersen will tell you how to measure your Pubic
Bone Height (at least he does not speak coyly of Valuable Bits). Once you know
your PBH tattoo it on your wrist so you don't forget it. Multiply PBH by 0.883
as suggested to get a nominal figure for your saddle height. The 0.883 fgure is
not magic, it was derived from a respected framebuilders measurements of
hundreds of buyers of custom frames. In my case, my 820mm PBH works out to 724mm
saddle height which I have found to be 6mm away from my preferred 730mm.

Armed with the saddle height you have computed, approach the Trek 7.6 with your
tape measure. Loosen the seat clamp and adjust seat so distance from centre bolt
of crank to top of seat in line with the seat tube is your saddle height
measuremet. Tighten clamp and sit on bike. If you can place your heel on the
lowermost pedal with your leg straight and without rocking your hips sideways to
reach you are about right. You will be able to pedal with the ball of your foot
and still have a little bit of bend in your knee at the bottom of the stroke.

Look at the bike. If the bars are significantly below the saddle the frame may
be too small for you. Mark the seat post with a bit of tape and withdraw the
seat and post completely. If you only have about two inches of post in the frame
the frame is definitely too small. The post is sure to have a mark and writing
saying "min.insertion" or something similar. If you are close to minimum
insertion mark the frame may be on the small side for you. A minimal amount of
seatpost in the seat tube is a sure way to crack an alloy frame.

Fianlly, does the bike feel good to ride? If the bars are level with the seat or
somewhat above, an inexperienced rider may still prefer a higher bar for a more
upright riding position. If that is you, steerer stems are available with a
steeper angle. The Trek seems to have a zero degree stem (alloy dog bone that
connects handlebar to steerer tube) and they can be had with a 25 or 30 degree
angle in varying lengths. Ask your local bike shop. If they don't seem to know
or be interested ask another bike shop. Once you have a bike shop who seem
interested stick to them and spend money there.

PH

On Nov 13, 7:22*pm, "Peter Howard" wrote:
"brivy" wrote in message

...

Hello all, I am new to bikes. *My neighbor has a pearl white 2011Trek
7.6FX, that he just bought 1 month ago. * He does not want it
anymore. * The bike looks new, and he has some new pedals that your
shoe has to clip in, they are shimano pd m540 pedals. *He also has a
pair of new shoes (my size) that clip into the pedals and he will
throw in a new helmet. *He bought the bike, lost interest and now
wants to sell it. *He said he paid 1200 for the bike and another 200
for the bedals, shoes and helmet. *He said I can have it all for 700
dollars, is that a good deal? * I appreciate it in advance.

Bj

A good buy for a flat-bar road bike with quite a reasonable level of drivetrain
equipment fitted. The entry-levelTrek7.1 is under $400 but the equipment is
just plain cheap. You don't say where you live, if you are a lady or a
gentleman, if you have ridden much before or what you want to do with this bike.
*If you are in Canada or the Northern half of the USA you are coming into a
season when riding conditions are definitely discouraging. If you did buy this
bike the first thing to do is ditch the clip-in pedals and shoes. Put them on
Ebay, you *do*not*need*them*. Find a local bike shop and buy a set of platform
pedals. Nothing discourages regular riding like having to put on special clothes
before you go. Maybe that's why your neighbour lost interest so quick. Use the
proceeds from the pedal sale to put a rear rack on. The bike does have rack
eyelets according toTrek'swebsite picture. Add a cheap pannier bag and you
will be encouraged to use the bike for grocery hauling, unless you live out in
the boonies 15 miles form the nearest market. At 28mm, the tyres are a little
narrow though not excessively so. However, wider tyres make a bike nicer to ride
on lousy suburban pavement or bicycle trails. The model below with apparently
the same wheelset has 32mm tyres. Perhaps this bike has the rim width and the
frame and fork clearance to take 32mm or even 35mm tyres. If you heve a localTrekdealer you could ask.

But will the bike fit you? Can you even straddle the top tube? If there is six
inches of clearance between your Valuable Bits and the tube the frame is maybe
too small. If aforesaid Valuable Bits brush the top tube it is maybe too big.
Contacting top tube was not necessarily a bad thing with a traditional frame
with level top tube but on a modern compact frame with a sloping top tube you
would maybe have too far to reach to the bars.

Go tohttp://www.rivbike.com/article/bike_fit/pbh_and_how_to_measure_itwhere
respected traditionalist Grant Petersen will tell you how to measure your Pubic
Bone Height (at least he does not speak coyly of Valuable Bits). Once you know
your PBH tattoo it on your wrist so you don't forget it. Multiply PBH by 0.883
as suggested to get a nominal figure for your saddle height. The 0.883 fgure is
not magic, it was derived from a respected framebuilders measurements of
hundreds of buyers of custom frames. In my case, my 820mm PBH works out to 724mm
saddle height which I have found to be 6mm away from my preferred 730mm.

Armed with the saddle height you have computed, approach theTrek7.6with your
tape measure. Loosen the seat clamp and adjust seat so distance from centre bolt
of crank to top of seat in line with the seat tube is your saddle height
measuremet. Tighten clamp and sit on bike. If you can place your heel on the
lowermost pedal with your leg straight and without rocking your hips sideways to
reach you are about right. You will be able to pedal with the ball of your foot
and still have a little bit of bend in your knee at the bottom of the stroke.

Look at the bike. If the bars are significantly below the saddle the frame may
be too small for you. Mark the seat post with a bit of tape and withdraw the
seat and post completely. If you only have about two inches of post in the frame
the frame is definitely too small. The post is sure to have a mark and writing
saying "min.insertion" or something similar. If you are close to minimum
insertion mark the frame may be on the small side for you. A minimal amount of
seatpost in the seat tube is a sure way to crack an alloy frame.

Fianlly, does the bike feel good to ride? If the bars are level with the seat or
somewhat above, an inexperienced rider may still prefer a higher bar for a more
upright riding position. If that is you, steerer stems are available with a
steeper angle. TheTrekseems to have a zero degree stem (alloy dog bone that
connects handlebar to steerer tube) and they can be had with a 25 or 30 degree
angle in varying lengths. Ask your local bike shop. If they don't seem to know
or be interested ask another bike shop. Once you have a bike shop who seem
interested stick to them and spend money there.

PH

Well, I bought the bike, it feels good and it looks great. I am going
to ditch the shoes and pedals. They are cool looking but this is all
new to me. I just need to lose some weight and get healthy. On too
many meds. lol Thanks for all the help. Does anyone want to buy
new specialized shoes and some shimano pedals pd m540

On Nov 14, 12:59*pm, brivy wrote:

Does anyone want to buy
new specialized shoes and some shimano pedals pd m540


Knowing the shoe size is helpful