Bike Paint

Hi Experts,

I have a Dawes Galaxy that has some rusting of the silvery
(Chrome plated, it seems) front fork and of the brown frame.

I was thinking of Finnigan's dark brown Hammerite paint
which has some useful properties. It seems to be very
durable once hardened and it kills the rust on the frame and
it takes only one coat. I have not been able to find it here
on the west coast but did online and it was about $25 for a
quart there, sometimes much more.

Has anyone had experience of this paint and/or know of
sources on the west coast?

TIA

RF

"RF" wrote in message
...
Hi Experts,

I have a Dawes Galaxy that has some rusting of the silvery (Chrome plated,
it seems) front fork and of the brown frame.

I was thinking of Finnigan's dark brown Hammerite paint which has some
useful properties. It seems to be very durable once hardened and it kills
the rust on the frame and it takes only one coat. I have not been able to
find it here on the west coast but did online and it was about $25 for a
quart there, sometimes much more.

Has anyone had experience of this paint and/or know of sources on the west
coast?

I'm now very sceptical of hammerite's supposed rust-killing properties -
it's never stopped it for me. I've also heard bad things about it on other
NGs.

That said, provided appropriate preparation is done - using eg Jelonite rust
killer - it might work.

cheers,
clive

"RF" wrote in message
...
Hi Experts,

I have a Dawes Galaxy that has some rusting of the silvery (Chrome plated,
it seems) front fork and of the brown frame.

I was thinking of Finnigan's dark brown

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint_It,_Black

J.

http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...e7&rlz=1I7GGLJ

try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First
Search
subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting.

rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of
further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned
and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better.

The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ?
compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells
an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube.

Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the
detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust.

Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty
spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against
the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint

Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed
following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto
from Walmart-prethinned.

On Mar 12, 8:48*pm, RF wrote:
datakoll wrote:
http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...rls=com.micros....

try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First
Search
subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting.

rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of
further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned
and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better.

The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ?
compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells
an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube.

Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the
detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust.

Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty
spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against
the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint

Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed
following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto
from Walmart-prethinned.

My thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

I just came across a paint called Rust Destroyer and it
claims that it is engineered to be applied directly over
rusted metal, new bare metal, rusted painted metal,
hot-dipped galvanized metal, etc. It also claims a 5 year
warranty when applied according to the directions provided.

What might be a catch is the need to apply a coat 3 mil
thick. How does one control that - use a depth gage??? Apart
from that, a 24 hour delay is required before putting on the
top coat.

Clive suggested that the Hammerite did not work well for
him. *Paints can fail even if a pinhole
size spot is missed and it is sometimes difficult to seal
spots like just under the saddle, when the paint
does not continue around the sharp edges and down inside the
tube.

I checked Consumer Reports for possible test results for
rust killers but there was nothing.
I do have some Hammerite silver paint and will try it on the
front forks after I have used some
rust killer and sanded them a bit.

I'll first search alt.home.repair and if I can't find
anything useful, I'll post there for some further suggestions.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

nada nada. you bought the snakeoil.
Once upon a time there was a paint breakthru called elkhide or
alkhyde. Cheops had a patent for it. The stuff placed some latex like
impermeable vaopr barrier in there so moisture would creep thru the
paint and bubble it out and off from rusting caused by moisture
creeping in.

Then latex came along. latex forms up with an acid reaction in water.
phosporic acid eats rust a bit so INDUSTRY came up with a vapor
barrier, the latex, with phosporic acid underneath.

A great idea-for your mailbox. Absolutely temporary rustproofing for
the simple minded and lazy.

Linseed does a better job. NO WATER. 2 hick coats of thinned linseed
seals the rust off from air and water. the rust kinda hardens up and
stabilizes.

But the deal is you gotta remove 98% of the rust first or remaininbg
rust holds enough residual air and water to allow your metal to go on
rusting no mater what caws the ongoing rust opens up cracks in the
linseed and paint topcoat.

cheap painting on "rusty surfaces is rusto primer, metallic latex and
rusto topcoat-after you get the rust off. or try to get it off.
Linseed first if youmleave more rust on then the other layers.

the picasso paints are not meant to cover rust unless you go with real
expensive boat paints, two parts acrlics and urethanes. Go over to
Grainger's or West marine and checjk the prices.

sandpaper is cheaper. anyway you gotta take it appart to see what
happened inside. could be the entire idea is waste of time due to
massive interior rusting.

I have spoken. (is that too over the top? I have spoken?)

On Mar 12, 8:33*pm, datakoll wrote:
On Mar 12, 8:48*pm, RF wrote:





datakoll wrote:
http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...rls=com.micros...

try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First
Search
subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting.

rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of
further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned
and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better.

The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ?
compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells
an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube.

Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the
detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust.

Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty
spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against
the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint

Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed
following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto
from Walmart-prethinned.

My thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

I just came across a paint called Rust Destroyer and it
claims that it is engineered to be applied directly over
rusted metal, new bare metal, rusted painted metal,
hot-dipped galvanized metal, etc. It also claims a 5 year
warranty when applied according to the directions provided.

What might be a catch is the need to apply a coat 3 mil
thick. How does one control that - use a depth gage??? Apart
from that, a 24 hour delay is required before putting on the
top coat.

Clive suggested that the Hammerite did not work well for
him. *Paints can fail even if a pinhole
size spot is missed and it is sometimes difficult to seal
spots like just under the saddle, when the paint
does not continue around the sharp edges and down inside the
tube.

I checked Consumer Reports for possible test results for
rust killers but there was nothing.
I do have some Hammerite silver paint and will try it on the
front forks after I have used some
rust killer and sanded them a bit.

I'll first search alt.home.repair and if I can't find
anything useful, I'll post there for some further suggestions.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

nada nada. you bought the snakeoil.
Once upon a time there was a paint breakthru called elkhide or
alkhyde. Cheops had a patent for it. The stuff placed some latex like
impermeable vaopr barrier in there so moisture would creep thru the
paint and bubble it out and off from rusting caused by moisture
creeping in.

Then latex came along. latex forms up with an acid reaction in water.
phosporic acid eats rust a bit so INDUSTRY came up with a vapor
barrier, the latex, with phosporic acid underneath.

A great idea-for your mailbox. Absolutely temporary rustproofing for
the simple minded and lazy.

Linseed does a better job. NO WATER. 2 hick coats of thinned linseed
seals the rust off from air and water. the rust kinda hardens up and
stabilizes.

But the deal is you gotta remove 98% of the rust first or remaininbg
rust holds enough residual air and water to allow your metal to go on
rusting no mater what caws the ongoing rust opens up cracks in the
linseed and paint topcoat.

cheap painting on "rusty surfaces is rusto primer, metallic latex and
rusto topcoat-after you get the rust off. or try to get it off.
Linseed first if youmleave more rust on then the other layers.

the picasso paints are not meant to cover rust unless you go with real
expensive boat paints, two parts acrlics and urethanes. Go over to
Grainger's or West marine and checjk the prices.

sandpaper is cheaper. anyway you gotta take it appart to see what
happened inside. could be the entire idea is waste of time due to
massive interior rusting.

I have spoken. (is that too over the top? I have spoken?)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

more.

get a can of alcohol from Wal and wet the frame down with CHOH after
dissassembly. The wire brush the frame with a rotary brush mounted
inuh drill.
a 3" brush like ona grinder. use a threaded rod and redloctite with
lockwashers and two sets nuts both side, file the rod square to fit in
the drill

bzzzzzzzz wear a mask and goggles.

that's how you do it.

biketoolsect.com has round pickle brushes for inside frame wrok.

datakoll wrote:
http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...e7&rlz=1I7GGLJ

try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First
Search
subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting.

rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of
further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned
and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better.

The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ?
compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells
an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube.

Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the
detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust.

Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty
spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against
the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint

Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed
following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto
from Walmart-prethinned.

My thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

I just came across a paint called Rust Destroyer and it
claims that it is engineered to be applied directly over
rusted metal, new bare metal, rusted painted metal,
hot-dipped galvanized metal, etc. It also claims a 5 year
warranty when applied according to the directions provided.

What might be a catch is the need to apply a coat 3 mil
thick. How does one control that - use a depth gage??? Apart
from that, a 24 hour delay is required before putting on the
top coat.

Clive suggested that the Hammerite did not work well for
him. Paints can fail even if a pinhole
size spot is missed and it is sometimes difficult to seal
spots like just under the saddle, when the paint
does not continue around the sharp edges and down inside the
tube.

I checked Consumer Reports for possible test results for
rust killers but there was nothing.
I do have some Hammerite silver paint and will try it on the
front forks after I have used some
rust killer and sanded them a bit.

I'll first search alt.home.repair and if I can't find
anything useful, I'll post there for some further suggestions.

datakoll wrote:
http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...e7&rlz=1I7GGLJ
try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First
Search
subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting.

rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of
further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned
and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better.

The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ?
compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells
an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube.

Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the
detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust.

Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty
spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against
the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint

Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed
following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto
from Walmart-prethinned.

RF wrote:
I just came across a paint called Rust Destroyer and it claims that it
is engineered to be applied directly over rusted metal, new bare metal,
rusted painted metal, hot-dipped galvanized metal, etc. It also claims a
5 year warranty when applied according to the directions provided.

What might be a catch is the need to apply a coat 3 mil thick. How does
one control that - use a depth gage??? Apart from that, a 24 hour delay
is required before putting on the top coat.

Clive suggested that the Hammerite did not work well for him. Paints
can fail even if a pinhole
size spot is missed and it is sometimes difficult to seal spots like
just under the saddle, when the paint
does not continue around the sharp edges and down inside the tube.

I checked Consumer Reports for possible test results for rust killers
but there was nothing.
I do have some Hammerite silver paint and will try it on the front forks
after I have used some
rust killer and sanded them a bit.

I'll first search alt.home.repair and if I can't find anything useful,
I'll post there for some further suggestions.

A quality hour or two with a book on the basics of auto body may be time
well spent.
Here's the ten-cent tour:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/paint_repair.html
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

who looks?
whaddya paranoid? livon Pebble Beach?

datakoll wrote:
On Mar 12, 8:48 pm, RF wrote:
datakoll wrote:
http://www.google.com/search?q=repai...rls=com.micros...
try local library or use online databsed for World Catalogue or First
Search
subject automobile restoration, auto paint, metal painting.
rustproofing paints seal out water and O2 attempting the prevention of
further rusting. Experiments here suggest linseed oil paintedn thinned
and alowed to dry then painted with Rusto works Nth* better.
The Chrome work is a make up job?: gouge out the pits, seal with ?
compatible with the 'chrome matching' paint spots. Auto supply sells
an abrasive chrome cleaner in a tube.
Frame? same deal but try the linseed after removing rust. 'Tide' the
detergent used as a paste with a rotary wire brush digs out rust.
Problem is rust area v. good paint area. Are there sooooo many rusty
spots that cleaning each out but preserving paint is a PITA against
the easier remove all paint/rust down to the metal and repaint
Take a look at the frame's internal pipe surfaces? thinned linseed
following a cleaning from thinner then CHOH, CHOH topcoat white rusto
from Walmart-prethinned.
My thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

I just came across a paint called Rust Destroyer and it
claims that it is engineered to be applied directly over
rusted metal, new bare metal, rusted painted metal,
hot-dipped galvanized metal, etc. It also claims a 5 year
warranty when applied according to the directions provided.

What might be a catch is the need to apply a coat 3 mil
thick. How does one control that - use a depth gage??? Apart
from that, a 24 hour delay is required before putting on the
top coat.

Clive suggested that the Hammerite did not work well for
him. Paints can fail even if a pinhole
size spot is missed and it is sometimes difficult to seal
spots like just under the saddle, when the paint
does not continue around the sharp edges and down inside the
tube.

I checked Consumer Reports for possible test results for
rust killers but there was nothing.
I do have some Hammerite silver paint and will try it on the
front forks after I have used some
rust killer and sanded them a bit.

I'll first search alt.home.repair and if I can't find
anything useful, I'll post there for some further suggestions.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

nada nada. you bought the snakeoil.
Once upon a time there was a paint breakthru called elkhide or
alkhyde. Cheops had a patent for it. The stuff placed some latex like
impermeable vaopr barrier in there so moisture would creep thru the
paint and bubble it out and off from rusting caused by moisture
creeping in.

Then latex came along. latex forms up with an acid reaction in water.
phosporic acid eats rust a bit so INDUSTRY came up with a vapor
barrier, the latex, with phosporic acid underneath.

A great idea-for your mailbox. Absolutely temporary rustproofing for
the simple minded and lazy.

Linseed does a better job. NO WATER. 2 hick coats of thinned linseed
seals the rust off from air and water. the rust kinda hardens up and
stabilizes.

But the deal is you gotta remove 98% of the rust first or remaininbg
rust holds enough residual air and water to allow your metal to go on
rusting no mater what caws the ongoing rust opens up cracks in the
linseed and paint topcoat.

cheap painting on "rusty surfaces is rusto primer, metallic latex and
rusto topcoat-after you get the rust off. or try to get it off.
Linseed first if youmleave more rust on then the other layers.

the picasso paints are not meant to cover rust unless you go with real
expensive boat paints, two parts acrlics and urethanes. Go over to
Grainger's or West marine and checjk the prices.

sandpaper is cheaper. anyway you gotta take it appart to see what
happened inside. could be the entire idea is waste of time due to
massive interior rusting.

I have spoken. (is that too over the top? I have spoken?)


Thank you Datakoll.

You are assuming here that sealing out the air permanently
stops rust.
My understanding is that bacteria also cause rust and very
probably they
can migrate through the oil, if they are not already on the
surface when
it was oiled.