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DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?
On Mar 16, 4:11*pm, Tim McNamara wrote:
In article , *Dan O wrote: On Mar 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous. *I've satisfied myself literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night than I am in daytime. WTF?!? WTF do you mean "WTF?!?" * WTF do you mean WTF be means WTF? A bicyclist at night with a headlight and taillight is more conspicuous than a cyclist riding during the day. *Way more contrast between a bright light and a dark background. In total darkness, a condition that does not exist for most cycling situations. This is a juvenile form of argument, Tim. And even your basic argument is fatally undermined by the deficiency that the light must be pretty strong to be seen at the same maximum distance as a cyclist remains visiblein daylight Andre Jute Adult cycling club |
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DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?
On Mar 16, 10:07*am, Andre Jute wrote:
On Mar 16, 4:11*pm, Tim McNamara wrote: In article , *Dan O wrote: On Mar 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous. *I've satisfied myself literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night than I am in daytime. WTF?!? WTF do you mean "WTF?!?" * WTF do you mean WTF be means WTF? A bicyclist at night with a headlight and taillight is more conspicuous than a cyclist riding during the day. *Way more contrast between a bright light and a dark background. In total darkness, a condition that does not exist for most cycling situations. This is a juvenile form of argument, Tim. And even your basic argument is fatally undermined by the deficiency that the light must be pretty strong to be seen at the same maximum distance as a cyclist remains visiblein daylight Andre Jute Adult cycling club It really does depend on the light system. I was driving home the other night, and a cyclist approached from the other direction with two, forward facing flashing LED arrays -- one on the bars and one on the helmet. These things were blinding. I thought I had stumbled in to an alien landing. This sort of retina burning, visible-from- outerspace display would be far more noticeable to a car enterning traffic from a side street (the usual culprits in a night time colision, IMO) than a rider in daylight. This system, however, far exceeded any legal requirement -- for any conveyance, jet, boat, train or space ship. --- Jay Beattie. |
#23
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DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?
On Mar 14, 9:05 pm, Andre Jute wrote:
3. Forget a dynopowered rear light of any kind. Even the best are dangerous to your health. The expensive BUMM ones are not watertight and the best of the rest, made by Basta (I have one they custom make for Gazelle but it is basically just an aesthetic variation of their best rear lamp) and by Spanninga (their Ultra; I have that one as well) are merely better waterproofed, not more illuminative. I keep them on my bikes simply because they came with the bikes. Even the best of the dynodriven rear lights are little glimmers that you can barely see across the street. None of the dyno-driven rear lights flash, because it is streng verboten to have flashing lights in Germany and The Netherlands, their prime markets. Good advice. I had some long discussions with Dutch manufacturers at the show about their products (and their lack of exporting to the U.S.), and especially about lighting. I was very suprised to see some new higher end Dutch commuter bikes with no dynamos at all, hub or rim. They told me that there is a trend even in the Netherlands toward battery powered lights at the mid-range for two reasons. First, the rim dynamos are too unreliable in terms of wiring and in terms of being damaged when the bicycles are parked, but the hub dynamos are too expensive except at the very high end. Second, the lights are only useful as "being seen" lamps at the relatively slow speeds on the cycle paths. 4. Get a battery rear light. If you're rich, get a Dinotte rear light (ask Jay; he has one), if not a Cateye TL-LD1100, which is pricey enough. There is only one other taillight that is good enough for your life and that's the Trek Disco Inferno, which is no longer made. The Dinotte and the Cateye 1100 are *bright*, they cast very substantial light to the sides as well as the rear, and they flash. Those are the minimum requirements for good taillights, and they are the only ones who truly meet them. The Cateye 1100 is bright enough to be seen in bright sunlight; I use it as a daylight running lamp. It is supposed to last 200 hours on a set of 2 AA batteries; I don't know how long the batteries last in hours because I use rechargeables and swap them out every three or four months or so. Other than folding bicycles, there were probably more new attempts at LED lights than any other product at the show, including several LED brake lights and turn signal lights, including some with wireless transmitters from a switch on the bars But in all the show, the best rear light remained the CatEye 1100. DiNotte was not at the show. There actually is a decent tail light from Blackburn (in terms of brightness and angle of view) but it suffers from using AAA batteries. 7. Or you might want to considering overvolting a single halogen lamp: you get far more light and you won't blow a Philips MR16 or MR11 longlife unit --anyway, what do you care if you reduce a 3000 mtbf lamp to 1500 hours of life if you get nearly twice as much light? The trick is that you must be able to get them in the 6V versions to work with your dynohub, and the 6V MR16 or MR11 are not easy to find, at least not where I live. Yeah, the poor man's HID system! Have you tried a 5W 6V MR16 on a 3W dynohub? "http://www.bulbtown.com/5W_6V_MR16_WITH_LENSE_GX5_3_BASE_p/43243.htm" 8. Or, in LEDs, you can fit as many low consumption LEDs as you can power. Each LED drops y volts, so the total must add up to what your dynohub produces or must be regulated. You might want to look into buckpucks to get the voltage right. Frankly, I wouldn't mess with LEDs unless I could get the latest and the best, together with some means of focusing the light correctly, and were also willing to sacrifice an existing set of lights with hefty, preferably cast ali, shells for cooling the LEDs. I looked into LEDs and decided that BUMM's Fly IQ (at the expensive end of their range, which is generally overpriced) would probably in the end cost less than messing around trying to make my own. I was surprised to see so few LED based dynamo lights at the show, because I incorrectly assumed that you could drive something like a 3W Cree LED from a dynamo hub. You can't. Most of the dynamo LED based lights were three lower wattage LEDs, and not focused or collimated all that well. Plus no manufacturer is apparantly willing to spend big bucks on the bins of the Cree LED that are the most efficient. The best LED headlamp appears to still be the SolidLight's 1203D. Interestingly, tthey don't mention the LED type anywhere, nor the wattage. 9. If you're cheap or poor, consider this. Plenty of RBT dickswingers will now weight in with how fabulous their BUMM Fly IQ is; I have one too and it is a good light. However. A couple of halogen 2.4W lamps -- because that is what I had at the time of the test; 2x 3W lights would do better still -- made as much light as the Fly at any speed over a crawl and could be better arranged because the two lamps had different spreads. There is a mistaken belief by many that an LED based light is necessarily more efficient than a filament based lamp. This is untrue for higher power lights. The measures taken to dissipate the heat from a high power LED lamp are quite incredible. Plus an LED llamp is much harder to lens properly. There are advantages, such as the longer life of the LED compared to the filament based bulb, especially in a harsh environment. You keep hearing how LEDs will soon catch up with HID in terms of efficiency, and this may happen but it's not going to be cheap. The LED manufacturers already charge a big premium for the their most efficient product bins, and you see Cree based lights specifying which bin the LEDs come from. 10. Lights are the last bicycle frontier. We hear a lot of talk from the technofreakies about how dynamo lights are now so much better than they were. But better isn't automatically good enough. The best dyno front light is still only nearly as good as a 10W MR11 battery light -- whereas I don't feel comfortable on any aspect of lighting (being seen, having my space respected, seeing) with anything less than about 25W divided between two lamps. YMMV, of course. Personally I find MR11 based lamps a waste, because the larger reflector of the MR16 is much more efficient. In fact the sealed beam 12 volt lamps are becoming one of my favorite halogen lamps because of the large reflector, light weight, and the lack of a need to build any funky enclosure. 11. In summary: I recommend the Cateye TL-LD1100 battery rear light, and two cheap BUMM halogen lights driven off the dynamo at the front with a homemade switch, supplemented in case of regular commuting or any strenuous riding circumstances by a rechargeable battery front light set . Good advice. I'm finding that for many short, slow rides to the store that the dynamo lights are sufficient. It's for commuting, especially at relatively high speed, that the higher power lights are necessary for optimal safety. 13. Good strong lights are useful in daylight too. The flashing Cateye 1100 persuades a lot of people to slow behind me and to give me a wider berth than they did before I fitted that light. Try a Flash Flag. See "http://www.flashback.ca/bicycle.html". You can probably make something similar. I use these on most of our fleet of bikes, but I'm working on something better. I don't like the lack of a good breakaway mechanism. Some sort of replaceable, cheap mechanism is needed. I was hoping to see something similar to the Flash Flag at the bike show, but there was nothing. |
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DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?
Per SMS:
Flash Flag. See "http://www.flashback.ca/bicycle.html". Somebody marketed something like that back in the late seventies/early eighties called "The Sting". AFIK, it didn't go anywhere. -- PeteCresswell |
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DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?
On Mar 16, 7:55*pm, Jay Beattie wrote:
On Mar 16, 10:07*am, Andre Jute wrote: On Mar 16, 4:11*pm, Tim McNamara wrote: In article , *Dan O wrote: On Mar 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous. *I've satisfied myself literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night than I am in daytime. WTF?!? WTF do you mean "WTF?!?" * WTF do you mean WTF be means WTF? A bicyclist at night with a headlight and taillight is more conspicuous than a cyclist riding during the day. *Way more contrast between a bright light and a dark background. In total darkness, a condition that does not exist for most cycling situations. This is a juvenile form of argument, Tim. And even your basic argument is fatally undermined by the deficiency that the light must be pretty strong to be seen at the same maximum distance as a cyclist remains visiblein daylight Andre Jute Adult cycling club It really does depend on the light system. *I was driving home the other night, and a cyclist approached from the other direction with two, forward facing flashing LED arrays -- one on the bars and one on the helmet. *These things were blinding. *I thought I had stumbled in to an alien landing. This sort of retina burning, visible-from- outerspace display would be far more noticeable to a car enterning traffic from a side street (the usual culprits in a night time colision, IMO) than a rider in daylight. *This system, however, far exceeded any legal requirement -- for any conveyance, jet, boat, train or space ship. --- Jay Beattie. I couldn't agree with you more, Jay. A blinding light is as counterproductive as an inadequate light. Bicycle lights, front and rear, should be adequate to the task but not a hazard to other road users. But on RBT it must often seem to you that you are the last moderate here; I keep stumbling into entrenched prejudice that leads to vicious responses on helmets and lights, not to mention motor pacing... -- Andre Jute |
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DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?
On Mar 16, 2:52 pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per SMS: Flash Flag. See "http://www.flashback.ca/bicycle.html". Somebody marketed something like that back in the late seventies/early eighties called "The Sting". AFIK, it didn't go anywhere. -- PeteCresswell Too bad. I find the Flash Flag to be very effective in having motorists give me more room. Whether it's because they see me better, or because they just don't want to risk scratching their vehicle, it's a simple device that achieves its purpose, including in the daytime where only a few LED flashers are bright enough to be effective. |
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DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?
On Mar 14, 8:05 pm, bob prohaska's usenet account
wrote: "(PeteCresswell)" wrote: Per Hank: I was a liberal arts major, so I bought a Lumotec IQ Fly , crimped the spade connectors, and plugged it into my SON. Piece of cake. Having said all that.... Thanks for the terminology. Googling "Lumotec" led right to Peter White's page dedicated to generator lighting. http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt-headlights.asp Bike generators match very well to light emitting diodes. The problem wiht LEDs is that the AC, non-regulated voltage out of the dynamo isn't well suited to driving LEDs without some extra electronics to convert the AC to DC and to keep the current and voltage constant. To achieve this at low cost and at high efficiency is not yet possible. This is why the few good dynamo LED lights are so expensive. A filament bulb requires only some over-voltage protection, doesn't care about AC or DC, and lends itself to more efficient optics. I wish that there would be some higher power dynamos, even at the expense of more drag and more weight. All that's needed is enough power to keep a 3W Cree LED, battery powered light, charged. A 4 cell Cree LED light that automatically switched between two sets of two cells (operating on one while charging the other from a dynamo) would be one solution that would be possible with a slightly higher power dynamo, and would give the best of both worlds. But you're talking about a $100 headlight by the time it's at the retail level in volume. |
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DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?
In article
, Jay Beattie wrote: On Mar 16, 10:07*am, Andre Jute wrote: On Mar 16, 4:11*pm, Tim McNamara wrote: In article , *Dan O wrote: On Mar 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous. *I've satisfied myself literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night than I am in daytime. WTF?!? WTF do you mean "WTF?!?" * WTF do you mean WTF be means WTF? A bicyclist at night with a headlight and taillight is more conspicuous than a cyclist riding during the day. *Way more contrast between a bright light and a dark background. In total darkness, a condition that does not exist for most cycling situations. This is a juvenile form of argument, Tim. And even your basic argument is fatally undermined by the deficiency that the light must be pretty strong to be seen at the same maximum distance as a cyclist remains visiblein daylight Try testing this in reality rather than in your imagination. The reverse of your position is true. It really does depend on the light system. I was driving home the other night, and a cyclist approached from the other direction with two, forward facing flashing LED arrays -- one on the bars and one on the helmet. These things were blinding. I thought I had stumbled in to an alien landing. This sort of retina burning, visible-from- outerspace display would be far more noticeable to a car enterning traffic from a side street (the usual culprits in a night time colision, IMO) than a rider in daylight. This system, however, far exceeded any legal requirement -- for any conveyance, jet, boat, train or space ship. --- Jay Beattie. Which some participants in these discussions would still find to be deficient lighting in some way. |
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DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?
On Mar 16, 9:00*pm, SMS wrote:
On Mar 14, 9:05 pm, Andre Jute wrote: 3. Forget a dynopowered rear light of any kind. Even the best are dangerous to your health. The expensive BUMM ones are not watertight and the best of the rest, made by Basta (I have one they custom make for Gazelle but it is basically just an aesthetic variation of their best rear lamp) *and by Spanninga (their Ultra; I have that one as well) are merely better waterproofed, not more illuminative. I keep them on my bikes simply because they came with the bikes. Even the best of the dynodriven rear lights are little glimmers that you can barely see across the street. None of the dyno-driven rear lights flash, because it is streng verboten to have flashing lights in Germany and The Netherlands, their prime markets. Good advice. I had some long discussions with Dutch manufacturers at the show about their products (and their lack of exporting to the U.S.), and especially about lighting. I was very suprised to see some new higher end Dutch commuter bikes with no dynamos at all, hub or rim. They told me that there is a trend even in the Netherlands toward battery powered lights at the mid-range for two reasons. First, *the rim dynamos are too unreliable in terms of wiring and in terms of being damaged when the bicycles are parked, but the hub dynamos are too expensive except at the very high end. Second, the lights are only useful as *"being seen" lamps at the relatively slow speeds on the cycle paths. That's a retrograde step. Both my Dutch bicycles have dynamo-driven front lights and battery rear lights, a very common arrangement at the high end, the reason being the problem (aesthetics, reliability) of wiring a dynamo-driven light at the back. But conceptually, once you accept that the dynamo lights are being-seen lights, or seeing lights only in undemanding situations, and that for any demanding use (including by people with a true value of their own lives) such lights must be supplemented by battery lights, it makes sense to have dyno- drive lights front *and* back as backups in case the batteries run out. I'm sure that if they put their minds to it the bike makers or lamp makers could solve the problem right pronto. (However, I notice that Shimano is no longer supplying either the front lamp they used to list, nor the switch they used to list for dynohubs; I wonder if the glow has gone off the dynohub market for Shimano.) 4. Get a battery rear light. If you're rich, get a Dinotte rear light (ask Jay; he has one), if not a Cateye TL-LD1100, which is pricey enough. There is only one other taillight that is good enough for your life and that's the Trek Disco Inferno, which is no longer made. The Dinotte and the Cateye 1100 are *bright*, they cast very substantial light to the sides as well as the rear, and they flash. Those are the minimum requirements for good taillights, and they are the only ones who truly meet them. The Cateye 1100 is bright enough to be seen in bright sunlight; I use it as a daylight running lamp. It is supposed to last 200 hours on a set of 2 AA batteries; I don't know how long the batteries last in hours because I use rechargeables and swap them out every three or four months or so. Other than folding bicycles, there were probably more new attempts at LED lights than any other product at the show, including several LED brake lights and turn signal lights, including some with wireless transmitters from a switch on the bars But in all the show, the best rear light remained the CatEye 1100. *DiNotte was not at the show. There actually is a decent tail light from Blackburn (in terms of brightness and angle of view) but it suffers from using AAA batteries. That makes all of *three* generally available good tail lights... A shameful situation, I think. There's also a rather ugly front light from Blackburn that I might us as a front flasher. But first I want to look into making something like the BUMM Fly IQ flash, so it can run off the dynohub and be there in cast I want to use it in steady mode. I'm also wondering if I can make the Cateye 1100 work off the dynohub for the rear. 7. Or you might want to considering overvolting a single halogen lamp: you get far more light and you won't blow a Philips MR16 or MR11 longlife unit --anyway, what do you care if you reduce a 3000 mtbf lamp to 1500 hours of life if you get nearly twice as much light? The trick is that you must be able to get them in the 6V versions to work with your dynohub, and the 6V MR16 or MR11 are not easy to find, at least not where I live. Yeah, the poor man's HID system! Have you tried a 5W 6V MR16 on a 3W dynohub? "http://www.bulbtown.com/5W_6V_MR16_WITH_LENSE_GX5_3_BASE_p/43243.htm" Thanks for the link. They don't deliver to Europe though. The reason I haven't tried 6V MR16 is that I can't find any locally or deliverable for a reasonable price, and in fact have several perfectly good (of their kind, for their purpose) 6V dyno front lights made by Basta, Spanninga and BUMM. 8. Or, in LEDs, you can fit as many low consumption LEDs as you can power. Each LED drops y volts, so the total must add up to what your dynohub produces or must be regulated. You might want to look into buckpucks to get the voltage right. Frankly, I wouldn't mess with LEDs unless I could get the latest and the best, together with some means of focusing the light correctly, and were also willing to sacrifice an existing set of lights with hefty, preferably cast ali, shells for cooling the LEDs. I looked into LEDs and decided that BUMM's Fly IQ (at the expensive end of their range, which is generally overpriced) would probably in the end cost less than messing around trying to make my own. I was surprised to see so few LED based dynamo lights at the show, because *I incorrectly assumed that you could drive something like a 3W Cree LED from a dynamo hub. You can't. No free lunch? I assume it consumes too much current. Most of the dynamo LED based lights were three lower wattage LEDs, and not focused or collimated all that well. Plus no manufacturer is apparantly willing to spend big bucks on the bins of the Cree LED that are the most efficient. The best LED headlamp appears to still be the SolidLight's 1203D. That's *very* expensive, Steven. I looked into the SolidLight and was tempted, but it will be outmoded before I've even run it in, and then my money will be wasted. Interestingly, tthey don't mention the LED type anywhere, nor the Luxeon 3W from a select bin, I imagine. 9. If you're cheap or poor, consider this. Plenty of RBT dickswingers will now weight in with how fabulous their BUMM Fly IQ is; I have one too and it is a good light. However. A couple of halogen 2.4W lamps -- because that is what I had at the time of the test; 2x 3W lights would do better still -- made as much light as the Fly at any speed over a crawl and could be better arranged because the two lamps had different spreads. There is a mistaken belief by many that an LED based light is necessarily more efficient than a filament based lamp. This is untrue for higher power lights. The measures taken to dissipate the heat from a high power LED lamp are quite incredible. Plus an LED llamp is much harder to lens properly. There are advantages, such as the longer life of the LED compared to the filament based bulb, especially in a harsh environment. You keep hearing how LEDs will soon catch up with HID in terms of efficiency, and this may happen but it's not going to be cheap. The LED manufacturers already charge a big premium for the their most efficient product bins, and you see Cree based lights specifying which bin the LEDs come from. 10. Lights are the last bicycle frontier. We hear a lot of talk from the technofreakies about how dynamo lights are now so much better than they were. But better isn't automatically good enough. The best dyno front light is still only nearly as good as a 10W MR11 battery light -- whereas I don't feel comfortable on any aspect of lighting (being seen, having my space respected, seeing) with anything less than about 25W divided between two lamps. YMMV, of course. Personally I find MR11 based lamps a waste, because the larger reflector of the MR16 is much more efficient. In fact the sealed beam 12 volt lamps are becoming one of my favorite halogen lamps because of the large reflector, light weight, and the lack of a need to build any funky enclosure. I looked into those garden lighting decorator types of sealed beams you recommend but again it was a supply problem. 11. In summary: I recommend the Cateye TL-LD1100 battery rear light, and two cheap BUMM halogen lights driven off the dynamo at the front with a homemade switch, supplemented in case of regular commuting or any strenuous riding circumstances by a rechargeable battery front light set . Good advice. I'm finding that for many short, slow rides to the store that the dynamo lights are sufficient. It's for commuting, especially at relatively high speed, that the higher power lights are necessary for optimal safety. I really hoped that a hub dynamo would be so much better than sidewall dynamos but it is not so: the light output in my kinds of mild use is no higher. The truth is that a hub dynamo with even the best lamps designed for it doesn't make adequate light for any of my nighttime rides -- I might turn from the shop across the unlit graveyard, or from a garage which sometimes has a veteran car into the rough tracks on the estate of a friend, and in both places the spread of light from dynohub lights, and the difficulty of starting up again after you stop, make the ride into an unnecessarily stressful adventure. 13. Good strong lights are useful in daylight too. The flashing Cateye 1100 persuades a lot of people to slow behind me and to give me a wider berth than they did before I fitted that light. Try a Flash Flag. See "http://www.flashback.ca/bicycle.html". You can probably make something similar. I use these on most of our fleet of bikes, but I'm working on something better. I don't like the lack of a good breakaway mechanism. Some sort of replaceable, cheap mechanism is needed. I was hoping to see something similar to the Flash Flag at the bike show, but there was nothing. I think the Cateye 1100 at last does the business, even in daylight; if Cateye's next model is as much of an improvement over the 1100 as the 1100 was over the 1000, I will buy that one too. A guy with a 1000 was passing in the winter here at dusk, very poor visibility. He immediately noticed my 1100 was stronger. We fitted fresh batteries from my bulk pack, parked the bikes on the hard shoulder with the lights flashing and walked back. The 1100 was visible for more than an additional 150 paces, at which point a curve in the road intervened. This fellow, a Brit, had thought the 1000 a revelation, very good indeed on cycling hols he takes all over the world every few weeks when he can get a cheap flight, but he said he would buy the 1100 next time he was in a shop. He was the one that pointed out to me that the key is that the bike lights should still be noticeable under street lights and in traffic; that a test in pitch dark is an engineering test but useless as a utility test. My Spanninga Ultra, highly thought of in The Netherlands, recommended in a Fietserbond test, was on the same bike as the Cateye 1100 and didn't pass our impromptu test. Andre Jute I wouldn't want to be on even a cager's conscience |
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DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?
Per Hank:
I was a liberal arts major, so I bought a Lumotec IQ Fly , crimped the spade connectors, and plugged it into my SON. Piece of cake. "(PeteCresswell)" wrote: Having said all that.... Thanks for the terminology. Googling "Lumotec" led right to Peter White's page dedicated to generator lighting. http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt-headlights.asp bob prohaska's usenet account wrote: Bike generators match very well to light emitting diodes. SMS wrote: The problem wiht LEDs is that the AC, non-regulated voltage out of the dynamo isn't well suited to driving LEDs without some extra electronics to convert the AC to DC and to keep the current and voltage constant. To achieve this at low cost and at high efficiency is not yet possible. This is why the few good dynamo LED lights are so expensive. A filament bulb requires only some over-voltage protection, doesn't care about AC or DC, and lends itself to more efficient optics. I wish that there would be some higher power dynamos, even at the expense of more drag and more weight. All that's needed is enough power to keep a 3W Cree LED, battery powered light, charged. A 4 cell Cree LED light that automatically switched between two sets of two cells (operating on one while charging the other from a dynamo) would be one solution that would be possible with a slightly higher power dynamo, and would give the best of both worlds. But you're talking about a $100 headlight by the time it's at the retail level in volume. I thought I might throw out my bikes and just sit down and cry because the world is imperfect. Instead, I just ride with normal dynamo lights. Installed once and never given a moment's thought since. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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