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#21
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 3:59:00 PM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 11:23:40 PM UTC-8, wrote: On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 5:35:07 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 9:22:07 AM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 1/30/2018 11:32 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote: sms wrote: Deore are better than most in longevity, about as tough a changer as there is nowadays. I had a Deore front shifter fail after only twelve years. Sounds like a long time, but it's on a mountain bike that I probably rode not more than 500 miles. Well, when you speak of how long something will last on a bike, do you typically refer to time, distance, riding style, weather conditions, all of the above, or something else? I'd say all of the above, which makes the concept of average life pretty meaningless. I'd expect the low end of the scale - except for mountain bikes - would be Jay Beattie's everyday commuting including steep hills and some forest paths in all kinds of weather. I'd expect the high end would be, well, a guy who rode only on level trails in nice dry Southern California. I'm currently using a 600EX front derailleur on my commuter. It's probably 30 years old, but it replaced a newer Ultegra derailleur. Oddly enough, I wore through the cage with chain rub. That's the deal when your bike is caked in mud. You don't notice chain rub, and I think the sheer number of shifts got it too. The 600EX is kludgy, but it works. It's my third or fourth front derailleur in the last 15 years. My RD is similar vintage, but only because I wore out a more modern Ultegra 10sp. It got so sloppy that it barely shifted after maybe five or six years. I'm running old 9sp shifters. The old 8sp derailleur works fine with 9sp shifters, but not great. Good enough. It's my third RD in the last 15 years. When I rebuilt the CX commuter with the new frame (after breaking the prior frame), I threw on a SRAM Red BB30 CF crank that I took off my broken SuperSix. This is what I hate about warranty replacements: my broken frame had a threaded BB, and the replacement is BB30, so I scavenged the BB30 crank off the SuperSix. That crank lasted six months on my commuter and then broke -- the pedal insert loosened and cracked through to the end of the crank arm. POS. I had an FSA do the same thing on another bike. I just put on a $95 105 crank with Wheels Mfg. adapters. That's the fifth crank in the last 15 years on my commuter. I changed the original out because it was ISIS, and I was blowing through BBs. The second was an Ultegra, and it broke (crank arm while out of the saddle). Third crank was a Praxis Works M30 taken off my Roubaix that was stolen. That crank is in a box because of the proprietary dimensions. I don't want to buy the special bearings. The SRAM Red broke. I've got boxes of old parts and use them on the commuter. It's a parts eater. If I upgrade to 10sp or above, I can't use all the old parts -- but I'm not going to upgrade until the shifters die, which may be never . . . or may be tomorrow. Another gripe is that the new frame is intended for hydraulic discs, and for cable discs, you have to use housing for the entire run, and it adds a lot of drag. -- Jay Beattie. Wow.. I never wore out a RD except for the jockey wheels, only one FD, never broke a crank or pedals. Maybe that is the advantage of living in a dead flat country where I shift maybe 2-4 times a ride. On the other hand off road I shift the crap out of my RD. A Deore 9 speed RD cost 30-35 euro on this side of the pond. Great value for money and I would not go for less. With that kind of money I would not worry about a lifetime of 10000 miles. You're better at maintaining your bike. I'll ride for months in the rain and do nothing but lube the chain -- and then fix things if they break. I think water and grit really kill RDs. -- Jay Beattie. How do I maintain the crank better or a frame? My off road bikes are almost exclusively ridden in the worst possible conditions. My chains on them don't last 1000 km, I go through jockey wheels like crazy but wearing out a RD or breaking a crank or frame never happened. Lou |
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#22
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 7:25:22 AM UTC-8, sms wrote:
On 1/30/2018 8:35 PM, jbeattie wrote: When I rebuilt the CX commuter with the new frame (after breaking the prior frame), I threw on a SRAM Red BB30 CF crank that I took off my broken SuperSix. This is what I hate about warranty replacements: my broken frame had a threaded BB, and the replacement is BB30, so I scavenged the BB30 crank off the SuperSix. That crank lasted six months on my commuter and then broke -- the pedal insert loosened and cracked through to the end of the crank arm. POS. I had an FSA do the same thing on another bike. I just put on a $95 105 crank with Wheels Mfg. adapters. That's the fifth crank in the last 15 years on my commuter. I changed the original out because it was ISIS, and I was blowing through BBs. The second was an Ultegra, and it broke (crank arm while out of the saddle). I thought I was reading a post from Joerg. You obviously are very hard on your equipment. Broken frames, broken cranks, broken pedal inserts. Have you considered a steel frame with more robust components? Well, my commuter sees a lot of miles in bad weather. Plus I'm big and tend to mash up hills, and as for the crank pedal thread inserts failing, that's just a bad design. BTW, I've broken steel frames, too -- but when I break a Cannondale, I get a new one. I'm not hitting my bike with a hammer or throwing it off cliffs, but I do subject it to a lot of fatigue cycles. Everything has a fatigue life. -- Jay Beattie. |
#23
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On 1/31/2018 3:45 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 7:25:22 AM UTC-8, sms wrote: On 1/30/2018 8:35 PM, jbeattie wrote: When I rebuilt the CX commuter with the new frame (after breaking the prior frame), I threw on a SRAM Red BB30 CF crank that I took off my broken SuperSix. This is what I hate about warranty replacements: my broken frame had a threaded BB, and the replacement is BB30, so I scavenged the BB30 crank off the SuperSix. That crank lasted six months on my commuter and then broke -- the pedal insert loosened and cracked through to the end of the crank arm. POS. I had an FSA do the same thing on another bike. I just put on a $95 105 crank with Wheels Mfg. adapters. That's the fifth crank in the last 15 years on my commuter. I changed the original out because it was ISIS, and I was blowing through BBs. The second was an Ultegra, and it broke (crank arm while out of the saddle). I thought I was reading a post from Joerg. You obviously are very hard on your equipment. Broken frames, broken cranks, broken pedal inserts. Have you considered a steel frame with more robust components? Well, my commuter sees a lot of miles in bad weather. Plus I'm big and tend to mash up hills, and as for the crank pedal thread inserts failing, that's just a bad design. BTW, I've broken steel frames, too -- but when I break a Cannondale, I get a new one. I'm not hitting my bike with a hammer or throwing it off cliffs, but I do subject it to a lot of fatigue cycles. Everything has a fatigue life. Including your femur. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#24
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On Wed, 31 Jan 2018 13:45:17 -0800 (PST), jbeattie
wrote: On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 7:25:22 AM UTC-8, sms wrote: On 1/30/2018 8:35 PM, jbeattie wrote: When I rebuilt the CX commuter with the new frame (after breaking the prior frame), I threw on a SRAM Red BB30 CF crank that I took off my broken SuperSix. This is what I hate about warranty replacements: my broken frame had a threaded BB, and the replacement is BB30, so I scavenged the BB30 crank off the SuperSix. That crank lasted six months on my commuter and then broke -- the pedal insert loosened and cracked through to the end of the crank arm. POS. I had an FSA do the same thing on another bike. I just put on a $95 105 crank with Wheels Mfg. adapters. That's the fifth crank in the last 15 years on my commuter. I changed the original out because it was ISIS, and I was blowing through BBs. The second was an Ultegra, and it broke (crank arm while out of the saddle). I thought I was reading a post from Joerg. You obviously are very hard on your equipment. Broken frames, broken cranks, broken pedal inserts. Have you considered a steel frame with more robust components? Well, my commuter sees a lot of miles in bad weather. Plus I'm big and tend to mash up hills, and as for the crank pedal thread inserts failing, that's just a bad design. BTW, I've broken steel frames, too -- but when I break a Cannondale, I get a new one. I'm not hitting my bike with a hammer or throwing it off cliffs, but I do subject it to a lot of fatigue cycles. Everything has a fatigue life. -- Jay Beattie. Didn't Brandt have a lot of problems with pedal to crank attachments? I somehow remember that he solved the problem(S) in some manner. Special bushing? -- Cheers, John B. |
#25
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On 1/31/2018 5:24 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 31 Jan 2018 13:45:17 -0800 (PST), jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 7:25:22 AM UTC-8, sms wrote: On 1/30/2018 8:35 PM, jbeattie wrote: When I rebuilt the CX commuter with the new frame (after breaking the prior frame), I threw on a SRAM Red BB30 CF crank that I took off my broken SuperSix. This is what I hate about warranty replacements: my broken frame had a threaded BB, and the replacement is BB30, so I scavenged the BB30 crank off the SuperSix. That crank lasted six months on my commuter and then broke -- the pedal insert loosened and cracked through to the end of the crank arm. POS. I had an FSA do the same thing on another bike. I just put on a $95 105 crank with Wheels Mfg. adapters. That's the fifth crank in the last 15 years on my commuter. I changed the original out because it was ISIS, and I was blowing through BBs. The second was an Ultegra, and it broke (crank arm while out of the saddle). I thought I was reading a post from Joerg. You obviously are very hard on your equipment. Broken frames, broken cranks, broken pedal inserts. Have you considered a steel frame with more robust components? Well, my commuter sees a lot of miles in bad weather. Plus I'm big and tend to mash up hills, and as for the crank pedal thread inserts failing, that's just a bad design. BTW, I've broken steel frames, too -- but when I break a Cannondale, I get a new one. I'm not hitting my bike with a hammer or throwing it off cliffs, but I do subject it to a lot of fatigue cycles. Everything has a fatigue life. -- Jay Beattie. Didn't Brandt have a lot of problems with pedal to crank attachments? I somehow remember that he solved the problem(S) in some manner. Special bushing? Right, like auto wheel lugnuts, the chronic precession troubles were ameliorated by a conical interface. In Jobst's case a pair of steel half-circles under the seat of the spindle, fitting into a conical bore at the outside of the pedal thread. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#26
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On 1/31/2018 5:24 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 31 Jan 2018 13:45:17 -0800 (PST), jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 7:25:22 AM UTC-8, sms wrote: On 1/30/2018 8:35 PM, jbeattie wrote: When I rebuilt the CX commuter with the new frame (after breaking the prior frame), I threw on a SRAM Red BB30 CF crank that I took off my broken SuperSix. This is what I hate about warranty replacements: my broken frame had a threaded BB, and the replacement is BB30, so I scavenged the BB30 crank off the SuperSix. That crank lasted six months on my commuter and then broke -- the pedal insert loosened and cracked through to the end of the crank arm. POS. I had an FSA do the same thing on another bike. I just put on a $95 105 crank with Wheels Mfg. adapters. That's the fifth crank in the last 15 years on my commuter. I changed the original out because it was ISIS, and I was blowing through BBs. The second was an Ultegra, and it broke (crank arm while out of the saddle). I thought I was reading a post from Joerg. You obviously are very hard on your equipment. Broken frames, broken cranks, broken pedal inserts. Have you considered a steel frame with more robust components? Well, my commuter sees a lot of miles in bad weather. Plus I'm big and tend to mash up hills, and as for the crank pedal thread inserts failing, that's just a bad design. BTW, I've broken steel frames, too -- but when I break a Cannondale, I get a new one. I'm not hitting my bike with a hammer or throwing it off cliffs, but I do subject it to a lot of fatigue cycles. Everything has a fatigue life. -- Jay Beattie. Didn't Brandt have a lot of problems with pedal to crank attachments? I somehow remember that he solved the problem(S) in some manner. Special bushing? I didn't write as well as this image: http://pardo.net/bike/pic/mobi/img/m...modXside22.jpg -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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