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Chain-lubing technique



 
 
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  #1  
Old September 4th 12, 07:01 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
OccasionalFlyer
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Posts: 40
Default Chain-lubing technique

I've been lubing my chain and cogs (more or less) for many years.
It's time to do this for the first time on my current road bike. I
usually use spray citrus degreaser and spray Tri-Flow. I want to
switch to a method that does not get any of the cleaning chemicals on
the wheel or the frame. I got cleaner for the Park tool that goes
around the chain (used that long ago but it seems awfully
inefficient). So the cleaning part I can do. It's the lubing part I
have a question about.
Context: I am pretty near-sighted, so when someone at the bike shop
points to some spot on the chain and says, "Lube these," it is not
extremely helpful. The same for pictures in the bike maintenance and
repair book I have (put together by Bicycling Magazine).

The pieces of the chain that the cog teeth actually touch does not, I
presume, need lubrication because it is not a moving part. It is the
connecters between each chain link that need to be lubricated. So,
without removing the chain from the bike, what approach can I use to
lube the parts of the chain that need it (which would most obviously
be both the side that faces away from the bike and the side that faces
the wheel) without getting lubricant on the bike or the wheel? I've
thought of trying to cut some sort of "shield" for the wheel and bike
out of cardboard or perhaps even a sheet of plastic but that sounds
rather cumbersome. A better way? I assume that it would not be a
spray but it still needs to get all the moving pieces of the chain.
With a squeeze bottle, I'm concerned about getting all the needed
spots (again partly a visual acuity issue). Thahks and sorry if this
seems too basic but I've never figured out a way to do this that works
well and is not such a hassle it's ridiculous.

Ken
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  #2  
Old September 4th 12, 07:16 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
James[_8_]
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Posts: 6,153
Default Chain-lubing technique

On 04/09/12 16:01, OccasionalFlyer wrote:
I've been lubing my chain and cogs (more or less) for many years.
It's time to do this for the first time on my current road bike. I
usually use spray citrus degreaser and spray Tri-Flow. I want to
switch to a method that does not get any of the cleaning chemicals on
the wheel or the frame. I got cleaner for the Park tool that goes
around the chain (used that long ago but it seems awfully
inefficient). So the cleaning part I can do. It's the lubing part I
have a question about.
Context: I am pretty near-sighted, so when someone at the bike shop
points to some spot on the chain and says, "Lube these," it is not
extremely helpful. The same for pictures in the bike maintenance and
repair book I have (put together by Bicycling Magazine).

The pieces of the chain that the cog teeth actually touch does not, I
presume, need lubrication because it is not a moving part. It is the
connecters between each chain link that need to be lubricated. So,
without removing the chain from the bike, what approach can I use to
lube the parts of the chain that need it (which would most obviously
be both the side that faces away from the bike and the side that faces
the wheel) without getting lubricant on the bike or the wheel? I've
thought of trying to cut some sort of "shield" for the wheel and bike
out of cardboard or perhaps even a sheet of plastic but that sounds
rather cumbersome. A better way? I assume that it would not be a
spray but it still needs to get all the moving pieces of the chain.
With a squeeze bottle, I'm concerned about getting all the needed
spots (again partly a visual acuity issue). Thahks and sorry if this
seems too basic but I've never figured out a way to do this that works
well and is not such a hassle it's ridiculous.


Ken, you may as well have waved a red rag in front of a disturbed bull,
writing stuff like that. There is such an enormous volume of personal
opinion regarding chain lube, any discussion of such things is liable to
turn ugly.

I use a relatively light oil (actually ATF) after cleaning, so that
future cleaning is easy, and the oil penetrates the inner parts of the
chain, and flows over the working surfaces. It does wash off after some
time in wet weather, but I avoid wet weather avidly.

I use a squeezable bottle with a fine hole, and just run the chain
backward slowly while gently squeezing and aiming at one end of the
rollers. If I get a bit too much on, I simply hold a rag to the chain
while turning the cranks in reverse, and wipe some off.

Don't be too concerned. Chains work relatively well even when poorly
maintained.

Good luck.

--
JS.
  #3  
Old September 4th 12, 12:28 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
thirty-six
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,049
Default Chain-lubing technique

On Sep 4, 7:01*am, OccasionalFlyer wrote:
* I've been lubing my chain and cogs (more or less) for many years.
It's time to do this for the first time on my current road bike. *I
usually use spray citrus degreaser and spray Tri-Flow. *I want to
switch to a method that does not get any of the cleaning chemicals on
the wheel or the frame. *I got cleaner for the Park tool that goes
around the chain (used that long ago but it seems awfully
inefficient). *So the cleaning part I can do. *It's the lubing part I
have a question about.
Context: *I am pretty near-sighted, so when someone at the bike shop
points to some spot on the chain and says, "Lube these," it is not
extremely helpful. *The same for pictures in the bike maintenance and
repair book I have (put together by Bicycling Magazine).

The pieces of the chain that the cog teeth actually touch does not, I
presume, need lubrication because it is not a moving part. *It is the
connecters between each chain link that need to be lubricated. *So,
without removing the chain from the bike, what approach can I use to
lube the parts of the chain that need it (which would most obviously
be both the side that faces away from the bike and the side that faces
the wheel) without getting lubricant on the bike or the wheel? I've
thought of trying to cut some sort of "shield" for the wheel and bike
out of cardboard or perhaps even a sheet of plastic but that sounds
rather cumbersome. *A better way? *I assume that it would not be a
spray but it still needs to get all the moving pieces of the chain.
With a squeeze bottle, I'm concerned about getting all the needed
spots (again partly a visual acuity issue). Thahks and sorry if this
seems too basic but I've never figured out a way to do this that works
well and is not such a hassle it's ridiculous.

Ken


For a clean and effective way of lubricating a chain on the bike, the
use of a matchstick and an eggcup with a teaspoon of oil come to
mind. The technique is to apply one drop of oil to the end of each
roller and after a while, one does much of this by feel. Perhaps you
could learn the skill by feel doing a dry run first. It is not
essential to place the drop accurately, just push the stick into the
corner where the roller meets the inner plate. The common way is to
watch the chain while turning the cranks with an oilcan applied to the
inner links, queezing gently. One can usually hear the change as
the lubricant works in. This second method is much quicker and one
can place a cloth over the chainstay if one is fussed (say because of
a plastic chainstay). If your concern is due to oreventing
deterioration of a plastic chainstay then there presents a good reason
to use castor oil.
  #4  
Old September 4th 12, 02:41 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Mark J.
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 840
Default Chain-lubing technique

On 9/3/2012 11:01 PM, OccasionalFlyer wrote:
I've been lubing my chain and cogs (more or less) for many years.
It's time to do this for the first time on my current road bike. I
usually use spray citrus degreaser and spray Tri-Flow. I want to
switch to a method that does not get any of the cleaning chemicals on
the wheel or the frame.


Well, removing the chain (using a SRAM or similar quick-link)is my
preferred method. I can "soak" the chain and limit the amount of excess
that gets on cogs & pulleys.

I've used a drip bottle of Tri-Flow for years on my rain & commuter
bikes. Tri-Flow (and most oils) do a pretty good job of penetrating, so
just a drop on each pivot does the job. I prefer to do this with the
chain on a large plastic bag on the shop floor, then leave it overnight
to let the lube seep into the pivot. Alternately, put one drop on the
top of each link on the lower chain run, rotate chain and continue until
finished. Spin crank backwards a while to flex chain and encourage
penetration, then wipe off excess.

The drip bottle, when used liberally, wastes a moderate amount of lube
that I have to wipe off, but a spray bottle must really use up a lot.

PS - with a /really/ clean chain and cogs, you get a fair amount of
chain noise as they mesh. A little extra that passes from chain to cogs
is not such a bad idea; perhaps this cuts down on chainring wear just a
tad, too.
-Mark J.

  #5  
Old September 4th 12, 03:00 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
datakoll
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 7,793
Default Chain-lubing technique

OVERALL, chain lubes are a climate based choice. Triflow, many believe outdated, may shine in cold dry climates. Immediately you see the choices ?

Or use...EPIC is good for moderate climates, usually dry, and short hauls no touring...itsa 'racer' oil.

PEDRO'S ICE WAX 2 is an in between oil/wax, relatively not staining as not drip, for MTB not Campy as wax wears metal faster than.....oil. May be in rain IW2
goes well with a commuter setup.

then there's

https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&t...w=1152&bih=635

available cheap at NAPA or ADVANCE or maybe WAL...DISCOUNT...

the Valvo with a very low odor is decanted into the empty Epic bottle then lubed into a CLEAN chain OFF THE BIKE USING A SRAM LINK.

Clean chain, having wired sram links to the last rollers...WITCH FALL OUT....
with the now unavailable large coated paperclips from wall or tie rod wire.

The wire is used as hangers for threading chain thru pulleys and CR hooking on spokes.

Chain cleaner is odorless paint thinner decanted into a cut poly one gallon jug and stirred shaken. Thinner is poured backm into a used thinner jug for reuse.

examine the debris...leave the debris on botton poly jug. 4 grams sand equals 2-3 gear losses !

I use a 1x4" for both cutting chain and oiling. Lay chain on board then oil, maybe use saran wrap or sim underneath or oil on bike.

If compulsive, you may use (misuse) the new lube in a jug, add chain and shake that ...

THEN ALLOW LUBED CHAIN TO DRY IN SUN...dried liquid lubes are more effective long haul than wets that are thrown off.

IHS
  #6  
Old September 4th 12, 03:52 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
landotter
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,336
Default Chain-lubing technique

On Sep 4, 1:16*am, James wrote:
On 04/09/12 16:01, OccasionalFlyer wrote:









* *I've been lubing my chain and cogs (more or less) for many years..
It's time to do this for the first time on my current road bike. *I
usually use spray citrus degreaser and spray Tri-Flow. *I want to
switch to a method that does not get any of the cleaning chemicals on
the wheel or the frame. *I got cleaner for the Park tool that goes
around the chain (used that long ago but it seems awfully
inefficient). *So the cleaning part I can do. *It's the lubing part I
have a question about.
Context: *I am pretty near-sighted, so when someone at the bike shop
points to some spot on the chain and says, "Lube these," it is not
extremely helpful. *The same for pictures in the bike maintenance and
repair book I have (put together by Bicycling Magazine).


The pieces of the chain that the cog teeth actually touch does not, I
presume, need lubrication because it is not a moving part. *It is the
connecters between each chain link that need to be lubricated. *So,
without removing the chain from the bike, what approach can I use to
lube the parts of the chain that need it (which would most obviously
be both the side that faces away from the bike and the side that faces
the wheel) without getting lubricant on the bike or the wheel? I've
thought of trying to cut some sort of "shield" for the wheel and bike
out of cardboard or perhaps even a sheet of plastic but that sounds
rather cumbersome. *A better way? *I assume that it would not be a
spray but it still needs to get all the moving pieces of the chain.
With a squeeze bottle, I'm concerned about getting all the needed
spots (again partly a visual acuity issue). Thahks and sorry if this
seems too basic but I've never figured out a way to do this that works
well and is not such a hassle it's ridiculous.


Ken, you may as well have waved a red rag in front of a disturbed bull,
writing stuff like that. *There is such an enormous volume of personal
opinion regarding chain lube, any discussion of such things is liable to
turn ugly.

I use a relatively light oil (actually ATF) after cleaning, so that
future cleaning is easy, and the oil penetrates the inner parts of the
chain, and flows over the working surfaces. *It does wash off after some
time in wet weather, but I avoid wet weather avidly.

I use a squeezable bottle with a fine hole, and just run the chain
backward slowly while gently squeezing and aiming at one end of the
rollers. *If I get a bit too much on, I simply hold a rag to the chain
while turning the cranks in reverse, and wipe some off.

Don't be too concerned. *Chains work relatively well even when poorly
maintained.



X2. Chain lube is a distraction. I also use ATF, cut with a bit of
mineral spirits so it's super light. Works fine and doesn't get too
gross like motor oil. The price is correct. Also, it's red.
  #7  
Old September 4th 12, 04:34 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,365
Default Chain-lubing technique

OccasionalFlyer wrote:
I've been lubing my chain and cogs (more or less) for many years.
It's time to do this for the first time on my current road bike. I
usually use spray citrus degreaser and spray Tri-Flow. I want to
switch to a method that does not get any of the cleaning chemicals on
the wheel or the frame. I got cleaner for the Park tool that goes
around the chain (used that long ago but it seems awfully
inefficient). So the cleaning part I can do. It's the lubing part I
have a question about.
Context: I am pretty near-sighted, so when someone at the bike shop
points to some spot on the chain and says, "Lube these," it is not
extremely helpful. The same for pictures in the bike maintenance and
repair book I have (put together by Bicycling Magazine).

The pieces of the chain that the cog teeth actually touch does not, I
presume, need lubrication because it is not a moving part. It is the
connecters between each chain link that need to be lubricated. So,
without removing the chain from the bike, what approach can I use to
lube the parts of the chain that need it (which would most obviously
be both the side that faces away from the bike and the side that faces
the wheel) without getting lubricant on the bike or the wheel? I've
thought of trying to cut some sort of "shield" for the wheel and bike
out of cardboard or perhaps even a sheet of plastic but that sounds
rather cumbersome. A better way? I assume that it would not be a
spray but it still needs to get all the moving pieces of the chain.
With a squeeze bottle, I'm concerned about getting all the needed
spots (again partly a visual acuity issue). Thahks and sorry if this
seems too basic but I've never figured out a way to do this that works
well and is not such a hassle it's ridiculous.

Ken



As James said, there are hundreds of opinions regarding chain lube.
Different people have different criteria regarding details (e.g.
cleanliness vs. quick application vs. long lube interval vs. minimizing
lubricant waste, etc.) but dozens of lubes work well enough.

In any case, the parts that really need lubrication are the internal
spaces where the pins, rollers and side plates contact each other. The
outside surfaces of the chain barely need anything at all. Any minimum
amount of oil will keep down external rust, and it's just cosmetic anyway.

When using a liquid lube, I use a drip bottle instead of a spray can.
Best is to drip it into the vertical crack at the top of each pair of
side plates, directly above each pin. From there it will run down and
seep sideways in between the other moving parts. If you want to take
three minutes to be cleaner, do just two drops per pin, one on the left
and one on the right, and wipe off the excess with a rag. If you want
to get done in one minute, just stream it down the left and the right,
and wipe off as much as you can with a rag.

Now, I use a different method (wax-oil mix & propane torch) because it's
a lot cleaner, but I do need to protect my tire & frame from torch heat.
For that, I use thin aluminum sheet (i.e. flashing, about 0.010"
thick) that hooks over my chainstay. If you choose to use a spray, you
might try something like that.

BTW, it seems your problem comes mostly from nearsightedness. Have you
tried working with optical visors, like these?
http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Don...s/113199?pos=1
They're a big help for closeup work.

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #8  
Old September 4th 12, 04:35 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_3_]
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Posts: 1,365
Default Chain-lubing technique

landotter wrote:
Also, it's red.


Yep. That makes you faster! ;-)

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #9  
Old September 4th 12, 05:02 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Dan O
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Posts: 6,098
Default Chain-lubing technique


One drop on top of each roller on the top run of chain between front and rear sprockets, turn crank slowly backward to move the wet links onto the rear sprocket and down through the rear der idler pulleys (assumes derailer shifting bike, but the back-and-forth serpentine path bending helps w/ initial inflow of lube). When every roller has had one drop, ride bike and shift a lot. It should become whisper quiet. Wipe off excess lube leftover on outside of chain, but I usually don't even bother because the lube I use penetrates well and the single drop per roller doesn't leave a lot on the outside.



  #10  
Old September 4th 12, 05:14 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Duane[_3_]
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Posts: 1,900
Default Chain-lubing technique

On 09/04/2012 12:02 PM, Dan O wrote:

One drop on top of each roller on the top run of chain between front and rear sprockets, turn crank slowly backward to move the wet links onto the rear sprocket and down through the rear der idler pulleys (assumes derailer shifting bike, but the back-and-forth serpentine path bending helps w/ initial inflow of lube). When every roller has had one drop, ride bike and shift a lot. It should become whisper quiet. Wipe off excess lube leftover on outside of chain, but I usually don't even bother because the lube I use penetrates well and the single drop per roller doesn't leave a lot on the outside.




What I do except that I put the drop on the top of each roller on the
bottom run of the chain. Seems to work in better. Then I run it
through the gears on my stand and wipe off the excess. Seems to
increase my cassette life so far.
 




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