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#1
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Hello folks. Recently, my American Classic rear hub had a problem. Those of
you familiar with the design will know it's problematic. To differentiate his design from shimano \ campy, Bill Shook decided to avoid using traditional spring-loaded pawls. The idea here is to decrease coasting drag friction, as the AC pawls do not drag across the freehub teeth when coasting. This is great, in theory. The problem is that the 6 pawls are engaged through a "pawl plate". The pawl plate is engaged, amazingly, by a flimsy piece of wire that is wound around the inside face of the freehub. A couple of millimeters of the wire are bent in towards the pawl plate. This portion of the wire is angled obliquely such that it drags against the pawl plate's engagement holes. When coasting, the familiar machine gun sound is heard. However, this is not the shimano \ campy spring-loaded pawl sound. The problem is that it's ill-advised to rely on this flimsy piece of wire for the critical task of engaging the pawl plate. The bent portion of wire must be angled perfectly. If it hits the plate too squarely, then coasting drag is huge; if it hits too shallowly, then there's a chance it won't engage the pawl plate when pedalling. This happened to me on a ride, luckily I stopped off at a friend's and switched out the wheel. I have since serviced the hub. Getting that wire to hit the pawl plate properly is a true nightmare. It's currently set up with the wire hitting the plate somewhat squarely, in order to ensure engagement. Sadly, this does result in much more coasting drag than either shimano or campy. Ironically, I'm sure Bill Shook's goal was to eliminate coasting drag... Bill, if this is forwarded to you, I would suggest that the next generation of hub incorporate a much better solution for pawl plate engagement. Something spring-loaded is a must. Relying on the modulus of elasticity of a material (bent wire) really is a shortcoming in this otherwise-elegant design. Thanks. -- -------------------------- Andre Charlebois AGC-PC support http://agc-pc.tripod.com BPE, MCSE4.0, CNA, A+ |
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#2
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Andre Charl writes:
Hello folks. Recently, my American Classic rear hub had a problem. Those of you familiar with the design will know it's problematic. To differentiate his design from Shimano \ Campy, Bill Shook decided to avoid using traditional spring-loaded pawls. The idea here is to decrease coasting drag friction, as the AC pawls do not drag across the freehub teeth when coasting. This is great, in theory. There is a picture of this mechanism on their web site: http://www.amclassic.com/Road_Hubs.html However, various escapements have been invented over many years and the silent pawl used by Regina, SunTour and others has practically no drag because the large "heel" has enough viscous friction in the body to not snap back at rotational speeds of interest. That is also why they cannot be heard. The problem is that the 6 pawls are engaged through a "pawl plate". The pawl plate is engaged, amazingly, by a flimsy piece of wire that is wound around the inside face of the freehub. A couple of millimeters of the wire are bent in towards the pawl plate. This portion of the wire is angled obliquely such that it drags against the pawl plate's engagement holes. When coasting, the familiar machine gun sound is heard. However, this is not the Shimano \ Campy spring-loaded pawl sound. Unfortunately there is no picture of this device assembled but it seems to rely on the drag of the wire on the pawl plate. This being an unreliable drag, the engagement is equally unreliable. Because it cannot be heard, the assumption is that there is no drag... but there is. Besides, the actuator wire slides over the pawl plate across the series of holes visible in the picture of the parts. The problem is that it's ill-advised to rely on this flimsy piece of wire for the critical task of engaging the pawl plate. The bent portion of wire must be angled perfectly. If it hits the plate too squarely, then coasting drag is huge; if it hits too shallowly, then there's a chance it won't engage the pawl plate when pedaling. This happened to me on a ride, luckily I stopped off at a friend's and switched out the wheel. I find amazing how many people do not study history, in mechanics, politics or warfare. We don' need no steenkin new escapements. See Hugi, the loudest and most expensive ratchet on hubs with no redeeming value. Besides these problems, the mechanism is not well protected against water and dirt. I have since serviced the hub. Getting that wire to hit the pawl plate properly is a true nightmare. It's currently set up with the wire hitting the plate somewhat squarely, in order to ensure engagement. Sadly, this does result in much more coasting drag than either Shimano or Campy. Ironically, I'm sure Bill Shook's goal was to eliminate coasting drag... Well, Sturmey Archer went through the spring-less pawls on their SW hubs only to discover they had feet of clay. Riders stood up to pedal and flew forward in neutral, the pawls not engaging at all because the oil was more viscous than the inventor had imagined. Bill, if this is forwarded to you, I would suggest that the next generation of hub incorporate a much better solution for pawl plate engagement. Something spring-loaded is a must. Relying on the modulus of elasticity of a material (bent wire) really is a shortcoming in this otherwise-elegant design. Although the pawls do not make contact when coasting, the actuator wire does and has more drag than typical good pawls. Jobst Brandt |
#3
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#4
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David Newman writes:
However, various escapements have been invented over many years and the silent pawl used by Regina, SunTour and others has practically no drag because the large "heel" has enough viscous friction in the body to not snap back at rotational speeds of interest. That is also why they cannot be heard. Are any currently-available hubs equipped with the silent pawl you describe? If so, which ones? Up to now, I've found Shimano to be quieter than the other hubs with which I'm familiar, but if there's a hub even quieter than that, I'd like to know about it. I am appalled by noisy hubs like Chris King, which sounds to me something like a swarm of angry bees. I haven't disassembled a Shimano hub so I don't know what they use. The problem with ratchets arose when freehubs reduced the operating diameter of the ratchet and at the same time MTB's began using less than 20t on chainrings with as much as a 1:2 ratio... four times any gears that were encountered with previous freewheels. With Pawl failure, most designs went to what they considered failsafe, using double or triple engagement and unusual pawls. In freewheels with ball bearings, that invariably are not perfectly adjusted, eccentric rotation is probable and in that case only one pawl carries the entire load. This is something engineers of the past were aware of and therefopre never attempted multiple engagements. Regina for instance had two pawls 180 degrees apart and 21 ratchet teeth to give fine 42 engagements per rotation. Campagnolo made an aluminum freewheel that didn't work even though they thought they had triple engagement (of three pawls). Since they were singly carrying the entire load at some point, they went into yield under high pedaling torque. Hugi used the face spline that has all teeth engaged at once but these also suffer from slightest eccentricity that is inherent even elastically with the chain pull as great as occurs at maximum torque. As far as I could see, superficially, Shimano bit the bullet and made their single pawls wide enough to hold the load one at a time. I think their large size makes them noisier than classic freewheels. Take one apart and see if there are an even or odd number of teeth in the ratchet and the number of pawls. Jobst Brandt |
#6
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![]() Are any currently-available hubs equipped with the silent pawl you describe? If so, which ones? Up to now, I've found Shimano to be quieter than the other hubs with which I'm familiar, but if there's a hub even quieter than that, I'd like to know about it. I am appalled by noisy hubs like Chris King, which sounds to me something like a swarm of angry bees. Old LX silent clutch hubs are still available. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW They are also available through J&B distributors. -- Phil, Squid-in-Training |
#7
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I am appalled by noisy
hubs like Chris King, which sounds to me something like a swarm of angry bees. I have 2 CK rear hubs.One is as you describe. The other is no noisier than a DA hub, and not nearly as noisy as a Campy hub (tested while riding alongside someone with a Campy hub). I have no idea what makes my 2 hubs different. The quietest rear hub I have is an Ultegra. B (remove clothes to reply) |
#8
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![]() Andre Wrote: Hello folks. Recently, my American Classic rear hub had a problem. Those of you familiar with the design will know it's problematic. To differentiate his design from shimano \ campy, Bill Shook decided to avoid using traditional spring-loaded pawls. The idea here is to decrease coasting drag friction, as the AC pawls do not drag across the freehub teeth when coasting. This is great, in theory. The problem is that the 6 pawls are engaged through a "pawl plate". The pawl plate is engaged, amazingly, by a flimsy piece of wire that is wound around the inside face of the freehub. A couple of millimeters of the wire are bent in towards the pawl plate. This portion of the wire is angled obliquely such that it drags against the pawl plate's engagement holes. When coasting, the familiar machine gun sound is heard. However, this is not the shimano \ campy spring-loaded pawl sound. The problem is that it's ill-advised to rely on this flimsy piece of wire for the critical task of engaging the pawl plate. The bent portion of wire must be angled perfectly. If it hits the plate too squarely, then coasting drag is huge; if it hits too shallowly, then there's a chance it won't engage the pawl plate when pedalling. This happened to me on a ride, luckily I stopped off at a friend's and switched out the wheel. I have since serviced the hub. Getting that wire to hit the pawl plate properly is a true nightmare. It's currently set up with the wire hitting the plate somewhat squarely, in order to ensure engagement. Sadly, this does result in much more coasting drag than either shimano or campy. Ironically, I'm sure Bill Shook's goal was to eliminate coasting drag... Bill, if this is forwarded to you, I would suggest that the next generation of hub incorporate a much better solution for pawl plate engagement. Something spring-loaded is a must. Relying on the modulus of elasticity of a material (bent wire) really is a shortcoming in this otherwise-elegant design. Thanks. -- -------------------------- Andre Charlebois AGC-PC support http://agc-pc.tripod.com BPE, MCSE4.0, CNA, A+ I have a 2001 model and it has a 24 tooth, low flange freehub. The three pieces of wire that drive the pawl engagement plate are plunger spring loaded, not cantilever sprung as you describe. I have had no problems with it, other than shedding grease after lubrication. Here is the image from AC: [image: http://www.amclassic.com/Hub-Tech/Im...igure_08S.jpg] (strip the stuff in brackets for regular newsreaders) I know these three detents are plunger loaded because I have pushed each one in during my last grease-change service. Since I have older versions with grease ports, I needed to do this after changing from Finish Line to Phil Wood grease as the two are rather non-compatable. Wood is a far superior grease for these hubs but when mixed with Finish Line, the mix is runny like 90W axle lube and creeps out of the seals. I noticed a bit of wear on these plungers since the pawl cam plate is made from spring temper sheet and is a bit harder. There is an abundance of plunger length and the wear is limited to the corner of the plungers. -- Weisse Luft |
#9
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Strangely, my freehub does not appear to resemble any of the four described
on the website. All four on the website seem to utilize the spring-loaded pins, as you describe, Weisse. Mine, as I mentioned, simply uses a piece of bent wire that drags against the pawl plate. American Classic, please clarify this situation. Is there a hub available that has spring-loaded engagement pins? I would ask that some manner of replacement solution be implemented. -- -------------------------- Andre Charlebois AGC-PC support http://agc-pc.tripod.com BPE, MCSE4.0, CNA, A+ "Weisse Luft" wrote in message ... Andre Wrote: Hello folks. Recently, my American Classic rear hub had a problem. Those of you familiar with the design will know it's problematic. To differentiate his design from shimano \ campy, Bill Shook decided to avoid using traditional spring-loaded pawls. The idea here is to decrease coasting drag friction, as the AC pawls do not drag across the freehub teeth when coasting. This is great, in theory. The problem is that the 6 pawls are engaged through a "pawl plate". The pawl plate is engaged, amazingly, by a flimsy piece of wire that is wound around the inside face of the freehub. A couple of millimeters of the wire are bent in towards the pawl plate. This portion of the wire is angled obliquely such that it drags against the pawl plate's engagement holes. When coasting, the familiar machine gun sound is heard. However, this is not the shimano \ campy spring-loaded pawl sound. The problem is that it's ill-advised to rely on this flimsy piece of wire for the critical task of engaging the pawl plate. The bent portion of wire must be angled perfectly. If it hits the plate too squarely, then coasting drag is huge; if it hits too shallowly, then there's a chance it won't engage the pawl plate when pedalling. This happened to me on a ride, luckily I stopped off at a friend's and switched out the wheel. I have since serviced the hub. Getting that wire to hit the pawl plate properly is a true nightmare. It's currently set up with the wire hitting the plate somewhat squarely, in order to ensure engagement. Sadly, this does result in much more coasting drag than either shimano or campy. Ironically, I'm sure Bill Shook's goal was to eliminate coasting drag... Bill, if this is forwarded to you, I would suggest that the next generation of hub incorporate a much better solution for pawl plate engagement. Something spring-loaded is a must. Relying on the modulus of elasticity of a material (bent wire) really is a shortcoming in this otherwise-elegant design. Thanks. -- -------------------------- Andre Charlebois AGC-PC support http://agc-pc.tripod.com BPE, MCSE4.0, CNA, A+ I have a 2001 model and it has a 24 tooth, low flange freehub. The three pieces of wire that drive the pawl engagement plate are plunger spring loaded, not cantilever sprung as you describe. I have had no problems with it, other than shedding grease after lubrication. Here is the image from AC: [image: http://www.amclassic.com/Hub-Tech/Im...igure_08S.jpg] (strip the stuff in brackets for regular newsreaders) I know these three detents are plunger loaded because I have pushed each one in during my last grease-change service. Since I have older versions with grease ports, I needed to do this after changing from Finish Line to Phil Wood grease as the two are rather non-compatable. Wood is a far superior grease for these hubs but when mixed with Finish Line, the mix is runny like 90W axle lube and creeps out of the seals. I noticed a bit of wear on these plungers since the pawl cam plate is made from spring temper sheet and is a bit harder. There is an abundance of plunger length and the wear is limited to the corner of the plungers. -- Weisse Luft |
#10
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Andre wrote:
Strangely, my freehub does not appear to resemble any of the four described on the website. All four on the website seem to utilize the spring-loaded pins, as you describe, Weisse. Mine, as I mentioned, simply uses a piece of bent wire that drags against the pawl plate. American Classic, please clarify this situation. Is there a hub available that has spring-loaded engagement pins? I would ask that some manner of replacement solution be implemented. Have you queried American Classic directly? 1-800-813-5545 |
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