High Beam/Low Beam Spot/Flood Bicycle Lights

There have been many debates on r.b.t. regarding bicycle lights and beam
shapes. For those of us whose rides combine both unlit trails or
multi-use paths, plus regular roads (with or without street lights), a
single beam light can be an unacceptable compromise.

Vehicle headlights either have one sealed beam with two separate bulbs
or two entirely separate lamps to accommodate different conditions. For
a bicycles there are a few lights with one spot beam and one flood beam,
but this is not really the same as high beam and low beam though by
mounting the light with the beam aimed slightly down it could be close
enough.

Back in the olden days, of MR-11 and MR-16 based bicycle lights, you
could choose different combinations of beam shapes since these lamps
came in a huge variety of intensities and beam angles. The LED versions
of these lamps have a lot fewer beam angles available because of the
difficulty of LED optics versus incandescent optics (see
http://spie.org/x47766.xml). MR16 LED lamps are easily available in
wider angles, but for narrow spot beams they begin using large numbers
of lower power LEDs in a single lamp.

There are a lot of multiple beam bicycle LED lights but most of them are
just multiple beams that are exactly the same. They use multiple beams
to effectively manage thermals as the total power increases to levels
where it's too difficult to do passive cooling of a single LED. The
lamps are have the same optics and cannot be independently aimed.

Presently I use “manual aiming� with an adjustable spot to flood light
but it would be nice to have a dual beam light with one spot and one
flood beam, even better if they are independently aim-able.

Here are some lights that may be acceptable bicycle-specific lights that
I've found:

Nite-Lumen BC-A2 Windrunner Far-And-Near
Power Source: 4 x 18650
Claimed Lumens:
High: 1100
Medium: 5871
Low: 801
Review: www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WL2JgJhrJo
Source: www.gearbest.com/led-light-bulbs/pp_136062.html
Price: $43
Comments: This light has two different LED types, and two distinct
reflectors. The lamps are not individually aimable.


2 in 1 CREE XM-L L2
Power Source: 6 x 18650
Claimed Lumens:
High: 2000
Medium: Not Specified
Low: Not Specified
Source:
www.ebay.com/itm/2in1-CREE-XM-L-L2-LED-2000Lm-Front-Bicycle-High-Low-Beams-Lights-9600mAh-Battery/261449138971
Price: $42
Comments: This is essentially two separate lamps with different optics
that can be independently aimed. It uses a Y cable from one battery. It
may just be a diffuser lens on one lamp, rather than a different reflector.

Each beam also has a separately controlled "ring light" that can be
steady or flashing. This might be a nice feature when you want a lower
power flasher for night use, combined with the steady main beam.


Fenix BT20
Power Source: 2 x 18650 (not included)
Claimed Lumens:
Low: 100 Lumens
Mid: 300 Lumes
High: 450 Lumens
Turbo: 750 Lumens
Strobe: 300 Lumens (nice to have a more reasonable level for the strobe)
Review: www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABmwlrFWNOk
Price: $90 (not including batteries)
Source: www.fenix-store.com/fenix-bt20-led-bike-light/
Comments: This light is a single beam but the optics create a dual beam
that combines spot and flood but it's only one LED so you can't choose
(see
http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server4500/12psl01c/products/1270/images/8224/201312510052961292__09342__18217.1443047637.1280.1 280.jpg?c=2).


For those terrified of CCBLs (Cheap Chinese Bicycle Lights) Fenix is a
well-regarded LED lighting company.


Ding (not yet available, Kickstarter finished, in pre-production)
Power Source: Internal battery
Claimed Lumens:
Mode 1: Hyper, 400 Lumen Froward, 150 Lumens Downwards
Mode 2: Track, 300 Lumen Forward, 125 Lumens Downwards
Mode 3: City, 200 Lumen Forward, 100 Lumen Downwards
Mode 4: Flasher, 150 Lumen Forward, Flash 100 Lumen Downwards
Mode 5: Daytime, 170 Lumen Forward, Fast Flash Downward Beam OFF
Source: http://www.dinglights.com.au/
Price: $50 (AUD $70)
Comments: This light has two front lights with different optics (spot
and flood) and a third beam pointed down, an interesting "being seen"
concept. This is not a CCBL, it is a CABL (cheap Australian Bicycle Light).

On 11/18/2015 7:23 AM, sms wrote:
There have been many debates on r.b.t. regarding bicycle lights and beam
shapes. For those of us whose rides combine both unlit trails or
multi-use paths, plus regular roads (with or without street lights), a
single beam light can be an unacceptable compromise.

snip

I put this all into a Google Docs document. See
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1EekuRR4mXMCM_1XMXQdY3i9U9k5PjoaxZ-JoBgk5apM.

The forthcoming "Ding" light from Australia looks really interesting.
Looks like they really thought about the optics. Also you can charge it
from a dynamo that has an AC to DC thingee to generate 5V. I suspect
that it would even run off a dynamo continuously at one of the lower
power settings.

On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 9:10:46 PM UTC-5, Barry Beams wrote:
Anything "sir" insinuated by claiming "the problem with the Barry Beam is" in linking an old out of date Candlepower forum article was solved three years ago before ane final production tooling or parts were made.


Once again it was not ME "SIR" that said that! It was sMS. Please get your attrubutes right as another poster already told you that it was SMS who said that.

Cheers from Sir.

On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 9:10:46 PM UTC-5, Barry Beams wrote:
Anything "sir" insinuated by claiming "the problem with the Barry Beam is" in linking an old out of date Candlepower forum article was solved three years ago before ane final production tooling or parts were made.

As I said, that was not Sir Ridesalot insinuating and claiming those things.
That was "sms", or Stephen M. Scharf. You need to get that right.

- Frank Krygowski

On Wed, 18 Nov 2015 07:23:55 -0800, sms
wrote:

There have been many debates on r.b.t. regarding bicycle lights and beam
shapes. For those of us whose rides combine both unlit trails or
multi-use paths, plus regular roads (with or without street lights), a
single beam light can be an unacceptable compromise.

(snip)

The light is only half of it. Most cheap Chinese lights exaggerate
battery capacity. I have a 4x26650 pack with a measured capacity 1/4
of what the seller claims. Right now I am in the middle of testing
one where capacity is 1/2 of the seller claim. And that's a good one.

On 11/19/2015 2:06 AM, somebody wrote:
On Wed, 18 Nov 2015 07:23:55 -0800, sms
wrote:

There have been many debates on r.b.t. regarding bicycle lights and beam
shapes. For those of us whose rides combine both unlit trails or
multi-use paths, plus regular roads (with or without street lights), a
single beam light can be an unacceptable compromise.

(snip)

The light is only half of it. Most cheap Chinese lights exaggerate
battery capacity. I have a 4x26650 pack with a measured capacity 1/4
of what the seller claims. Right now I am in the middle of testing
one where capacity is 1/2 of the seller claim. And that's a good one.

True. The CCBLs include low-capacity 18650 cells. Replacing them with
high-capacity Panasonic cells needs to be factored into the cost if the
run time isn't long enough per charge.

One thing I have seen recently is Magicshine clones where there there is
a USB port and you are required to provide your own battery pack of some
sort. You can use those external cell phone charger packs, which usually
have 18650 cells inside.

When it comes to Li-Ion rechargeables, "batteries not included" can be a
good thing, since Li-Ion cells begin to lose capacity immediately after
they are manufactured. I have a big issue with all these cell phones
that come with non-user-removeable batteries. After two years, the
capacity is greatly reduced and it's expensive to get a battery
replacement if you're hesitant to do it yourself.

On 11/18/2015 1:12 PM, sms wrote:
On 11/18/2015 7:23 AM, sms wrote:
There have been many debates on r.b.t. regarding bicycle lights and beam
shapes. For those of us whose rides combine both unlit trails or
multi-use paths, plus regular roads (with or without street lights), a
single beam light can be an unacceptable compromise.

snip

I put this all into a Google Docs document. See
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1EekuRR4mXMCM_1XMXQdY3i9U9k5PjoaxZ-JoBgk5apM.

I added one more. The UniqueFire HD-016, which is reviewed in 2014 at
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/review-uniquefire-hd-016-dual-beam-bicycle-headlight-934119.html.
Rather than a diffuser, it has a different reflector to give the flood
and spot beams.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1EekuRR4mXMCM_1XMXQdY3i9U9k5PjoaxZ-JoBgk5apM

On 11/18/2015 6:10 PM, Barry Beams wrote:

snip

How about a giving my light a fair shake?
I stand up firm for my Oculus because anyone who rides with a Barry Beam knows how superior the beam is to anything else.

My optics in a single light chamber solve the problems that conventional beams pose. Ding isn't thinking through their optics, they're stuffing multiple lights into one package. My beam's down and side light regions easily outshines the deliberately overexposed narrow lane picture on the Ding site.

Yes, there are advantage to a single light with optics that provide both
a spot and flood beam. The Fenix light does something similar to yours.
Yet there are also advantages to how vehicles do things with separate
lamps for distance and close.

And of course there are non-bike specific lights that have adjustable
optics.

So there are three choices for rides where you're on a mix of roads,
MUPs, and trails:

1. Optics that project a "hybrid" beam of spot and flood.
2. Two separate beams, either or both of which can be switched on or off.
3. Adjustable optics like are used on some higher end flashlights.

Each has its pros and cons, not only in performance and duration, but
also in cost. There are not a lot of people that are going to spend $160
or $210 on a bicycle light.

I have added your light to the list. I did not see all the information
on your web site regarding the output at the different power levels. Do
you have an integrating sphere to accurately measure the output?

On Friday, November 20, 2015 at 5:08:08 PM UTC-8, sms wrote:
On 11/18/2015 6:10 PM, Barry Beams wrote:

snip

How about a giving my light a fair shake?
I stand up firm for my Oculus because anyone who rides with a Barry Beam knows how superior the beam is to anything else.

My optics in a single light chamber solve the problems that conventional beams pose. Ding isn't thinking through their optics, they're stuffing multiple lights into one package. My beam's down and side light regions easily outshines the deliberately overexposed narrow lane picture on the Ding site.

Yes, there are advantage to a single light with optics that provide both
a spot and flood beam. The Fenix light does something similar to yours.
Yet there are also advantages to how vehicles do things with separate
lamps for distance and close.

And of course there are non-bike specific lights that have adjustable
optics.

So there are three choices for rides where you're on a mix of roads,
MUPs, and trails:

1. Optics that project a "hybrid" beam of spot and flood.
2. Two separate beams, either or both of which can be switched on or off.
3. Adjustable optics like are used on some higher end flashlights.

Each has its pros and cons, not only in performance and duration, but
also in cost. There are not a lot of people that are going to spend $160
or $210 on a bicycle light.

I have added your light to the list. I did not see all the information
on your web site regarding the output at the different power levels. Do
you have an integrating sphere to accurately measure the output?

-------
Nor is my light a "hybrid". Claiming a spot and flood requires a bright spot in the middle, and a diffuser. My beam does neither.

Serious, since you bike within a mile of my house every day, either meet up for a demo or admit that you really don't get what my beam is doing.

Last night at NASA/ Ames research's Roverscape, they tested my new reflector and optic tweak as giving another 13% downrage further than my previous alignment.

That now makes the Barry Beam 60% farther downrange than anything else you can get your hands on. This is NASA's testing, not the backroom at Light and Motion where MTRB does testing. I hope the source gives credibility to what the Patent Office gave me a patent for, that I'm doing something that no one else has figured out, let alone been able to turn into a mass producible optic at a competitive price.

If Fenix was doing something like my optics, they would be hearing from my patent lawyer.
My light is more properly tested in an integrating tube. Spheres are sort of ok for round beams with bright spots and side glare, but really meant for light bulbs with omnidirectional ray spread.

The most accurate testing I got so far for the lumen counter weenies was at Strategies in Light last summer. Gamma Scientific gave me an hour on the big rig 1 meter sphere and megabucks analyzer and spectrometer.
In many ways, designing for usable visibility conflicts with designing to kick out a glob or raw lumen glare. Who really cares about rays that go sideways outside of what people notice, and at dimness too low for their peripheral vision to pick up? Or too bright in the center above the threshold need to light up the object? But the raw lumen counter can register 30 to 50% of the total lumens in these useless ranges.
With my previous plated and coated reflector shape, we made baselines using a couple of big name brand lights that represent themselves as accurately claimed. One single LED light, another 3 led light like mine. Guess what? Both baselines were 25+ percent below claimed, on a gross total lumen measurement. My lights tested at ~20% below spec with the same calibrations and equipment. More telling, I measured less than 3% variation side to side from edge of main beam to center. Outside of the maximum 30 degree center spot that the big round beam light have (some are 20 degrees and narrower), I was brighter and more even than both others. Inside the brighter center is all the human sees because it stops down to adjust for the excessive brightness, losing the peripheral vision. My light stays even for ~77 degrees spread, and has no vertical dropoff top to bottom within its main height of about half the main width. No round beam gets close to this at even twice the power.
Remember also that even the best production LEDs still have production variation. Cree's best bins commercially available bins in buk quantities say +/- 7%. Lower bins and other LED companies can vary 12% and more. The bike light companies with their own testing equipment hand pick the brightest for the lights they send out to the press and for measurements. The lights I used were off the shelf. My LEDs are from a special order code I got from Cree, that's much tighter than the commercial codes the big light makers order.

Output at reduced power levels are at ~55% of the level above. This is due to the non-linear output of the LEDs as power ~halves or doubles between levels. Except at my lowest setting. That sends ~75mA to the LEDs. It burns for 56 hours at 50 lumens. That's brighter than what Light and Motion calls their "walking setting".

Adjustable optics play with focal lengths or concavity within a reflector. They still have the same problem with hot spots and glare as the basic light it would be without adjustability.
Hope to see some of you tomorrow at SF Bike Expo if you can make it.

placed the following in alt.trucks.Ford

Mounted Hella Optilux fogs on the bumper wired with relays powering from battery thru 10Ga wire. A small control panel with aux lights switch's bolts on the computer platform atop the doghouse. Photo later.

With Hella conversion units replacing stock headlamps, these cornering lights improve might driving beyond expectation moving the van into a night capable road going system. I am blind no longer. Light units mounted on angles when stock mounts were left in Florida. The angles may give more downward tilt.

The headlamp units are also tilted downward appearing bright but not particularly 'blinding' or 'offensive'

Light units are removable stored during day or when unnecessary in the areas mentioned. Extra bolts are in the doghouse cup holders, wrench under seat..
Never stop and get out with a flashlight to find the turn or wonder what abyss lies beyond the incline to the raised roadway traffic light.

Ahhhh....no **** Dude ! Whatta relief !



https://picasaweb.google.com/1022344...orneringLights